AD 14 KIELGE

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bondo
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Re: AD 14 KIELGE

Post by bondo »

We do not have easy access to 5' x 10' panels in the U.S. Only 4' x 8' here. Not knowing the details I would go with the 4' x 8' for most of the boat. I think I would get two or three 5' x 10' sheets. You might be able to get both cabin sides out of one panel. The main part of the sole could be one piece. The cabin top could be one piece.
Pull drawing #D264/11. Please tell me that the mast detail on the right side of the drawing doesn't call for a 2 deg. rake.

gonandkarl
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Re: AD 14 KIELGE

Post by gonandkarl »

Hallo Bondo,

Thank You for the suggestion about a mix of the panel sizes. I did also some drawing of the nesting on the bigger boards,
but I came to the conclusion to rather go for the 8x4 panels of Daniel Georgus.

Yes plan sheet D264/11 Sail Plan Al.Mast has the rake 2 degrees. But if I read correctly in the forum somewhere it should be 5 degrees. Once I come to building the mast step I will contact Jaques, because I want to build the Chinese Sail and that is normally with a rake forward and usually an unstayed mast.

Talking about plans I have a problem with B264/8 Appendages. At the bottom on the left side are 8 points Centre board case.
Can You tell me what it says on your plan under 5. I ordered metric plans and there it says 5. Cut 51 mm slot through bottom.
(That would be 2 inches ?!?)

Even that it says one should not study all detail before the start of the building, that is exactly what is the only thing one can do before the wood arrives.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )
All pictures of Micro Petrel AD14 and FS13 :

http://gallery.bateau2.com/index.php?cat=87433

bondo
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Re: AD 14 KIELGE

Post by bondo »

Yes my plans call for a 2" slot but the instructions disagree on this step. They recommend installing the trunk first. I would install the trunk first. I had a problem with the centerboard pattern and the centerboard trunk as drawn. So far I am the only one to have had a problem but there was a conflict for me. The centerboard pivot is drawn incorrectly. There is a correction for that. Detail #8 suggests rounding from the outside but the keel shoe still needs to be applied.

gonandkarl
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Re: AD 14 KIELGE

Post by gonandkarl »

At last I have ordered the plywood Okoume at a nearby supllier here in Austria. It is cheaper than the German suppliers but with the disadvantage that it comes all the way from France and I will have another wait for 6 weeks.
I tested in the meantime how to upload pictures into the builders gallery of my boatbuilding test ( Devlins Micro-Petrel ).
I should finish the boat by the end of next week. ( Inside finishing and painting is still to do and oar building according to
Jim Michalak s article )
All pictures of Micro Petrel AD14 and FS13 :

http://gallery.bateau2.com/index.php?cat=87433

bondo
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Re: AD 14 KIELGE

Post by bondo »

Marine plywood via France? If you receive "Joubert" brand you are in luck. That is the plywood I was able to build with and I really liked it.

gonandkarl
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Re: AD 14 KIELGE

Post by gonandkarl »

Hallo everybody,

At last my Okoume plywood from France has arrived ( unfortunately one 9 mm panel short ) and I have started cutting the first panels for my AD14 build. As I justified the buy of different sanding machines and an electric file ( very narrow belt sander ) with the necessary renovating of all doors in the house I am practicing painting on the doors and hopefully the experience will help eventually painting the boat. The practice to build a smaller boat ( Micro-Petrel dinghy ) was very valuable and the splashing of it was great fun even that I did row it only once more before it is packed away for arriving Winter.

Image





Greetings from Karl ( Austria )
All pictures of Micro Petrel AD14 and FS13 :

http://gallery.bateau2.com/index.php?cat=87433

bondo
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Re: AD 14 KIELGE

Post by bondo »

Beautiful. Nice work Karl. Pretty little thing. Way to go with posting the picture too. 'Love the pictures. With the keel shoe, glue all the full size laminations together minus one. Keep one aside and you can dial in the total thickness to finish just proud of the centerboard edge when retracted. I believe 2 1/4" inches is called for on the plans? The real purpose of saving one part is to retain a pattern. If you find you need to get taller with your keel shoe to protect the centerboard when the boat is grounded you can copy another thickness before glueing on. You might even make one less of those keel shoe parts to begin with and save the wood for the time being.

gonandkarl
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Re: AD 14 KIELGE

Post by gonandkarl »

Hallo Bondo,
Thanks for the adice about building the keelshoe.I have one more question about it.
According to the plan one should make at the bow end a 25 mm ( about 1 " on your plan ) radius.
I cannot see it on any of your pictures.
Did you prefer it to be pointed and when yes why ?
Greetings from Karl ( Austria )
All pictures of Micro Petrel AD14 and FS13 :

http://gallery.bateau2.com/index.php?cat=87433

bondo
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Re: AD 14 KIELGE

Post by bondo »

My understanding is that from the plan view/looking down the keel shoe should should be somewhat sharp.
Image
And in the profile/side view the "corner" of the leading edge is eased (for grounding or trailer handling). Hard to see but I think mine ended up around 3/4" rad. I hope I don't find out I was wrong about this detail.
Image

gonandkarl
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Re: AD 14 KIELGE

Post by gonandkarl »

Hi,
At last I have cut all the plywood panels for bottom, sides, transom, rudder, keelshoe, centerboard and centerboard case.
Now I carry on over Winter to laminate the pieces in my cellar workshop which has a steady 17 degrees celsius.
I also melted about 45 kg of lead which I got from a scrap yard for 1.5 € a kg. It worked fine with a camping gaz cooker
and an old pot.
Greetings from Karl
All pictures of Micro Petrel AD14 and FS13 :

http://gallery.bateau2.com/index.php?cat=87433

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