AD 14 KIELGE

[jacquesmm]

Please post technical questions like weight and displacement in the technical section of the forum.
http://forums.bateau2.com/viewforum.php?f=18
I do sometimes miss posts in this section.

About weight and displacement.
The study plans show the trailer weight. This is the complete boat weight without the outboard, mast and sails or inside ballast. It includes the boat with all it's hardware, portholes and everything that is permanently part of the boat.
I calculated it that way because I expected builders to ask about the minimum weight to tow, with the outboard and ballast in the trunk of the car and the mast on the roof. That allows the use of a small trailer.
That minimum trailer weight is 565 lbs or 257 kg:
http://www.bateau.com/studyplans/AD14_s ... ?prod=AD14

I prefer a trailer with more capacity and the ballast fixed in the boat but that idea of minimum trailer weight makes sense in Europe where cars are smaller and big trailers rare.
When living in Europe, I have towed boats that way.

The displacement at 12" (310 mm) is 1835 lbs and the PPI is 256 lbs.
In metric, 832 kg and 45 kg/cm.

Those are calculated values for the boat built as designed.
The other figure was for a waterline at 10": empty boat, no crew, no stores.
Before more questions are asked: the DWL is at 33 cm (13"), the calculated displacement I give above is for 31 cm and the one at 10" (254 mm) is the boat floating at the design baseline.
In most cases, the boat with 2 persons and gear, ready to sail, will be at 31 cm draft. Heavy load = 33, empty = 25.

I am certain about the values of 1835 and 256. Those are the ones calculated at the time of the design.

PPI is Pounds Per Inch of Immersion.
It means that, at the waterline, it takes 256 lbs to bring the waterline up by 1".
In metric, at DWL, it takes 45 kg to bring the hull down 1 cm.

Calculated at another WL, it would be different.

One last word about weight: it will depend on how you build and load the boat. Some builders will build her light and will be able to have more ballast. Reports have been positive: boats built float in their lines and sail well.

About beveling, don't.
We do not build the boats the same way than Devlin. While trying to improve, you could make the hull weaker.
We want that epoxy putty in the corner.

[bondo]

Hi Karl. I fiberglassed above the sole inside the cabin with 3.2 oz cloth I believe. If I were to build this boat again it would be closer to the way Jacques recommends but I am happy with what I have.

[gonandkarl]

Hi,

At last I have spotwelded the first seems of the hull :



Greetings Karl

[bondo]

Good work Karl. Nice and fair and it looks like good plywood. Reminder that the written instructions omit the step of fiberglassing the bottom before installing any frames. It is shown on the drawing of the boat's fiberglass schedule. I like the pictures, keep them coming.

[gonandkarl]

Hi,

I made a bit of progress and here are my latest pictures:

Here I have finished just about all inside tapes



Because of my heavy weight I thought hanging support of a working platform is necessary.
In practice it was difficult to crawl along it and tape the side seams therefore I did the rest of the taping with the support of just 10 cm thick polystyrene pieces of foam which are here in Austria normally used to insulate houses on the outside.
I will use the supports for lifting and turning the boat like bondo did. As this straps said one should not use them for lifting I installed on the wall my electric hoist to do the lifting which works fine. I tested it by lifting the whole building frame and the boat.





After having glassed the bottom I am now ready to put the glass on the inside



Greetings Karl ( Austria )

[bondo]

Everything is looking great Karl. That is actually a difficult stage, crawling in there. For me, this part up until the floor was on was the hardest physically to work on.

[gonandkarl]

Hallo everbody,

At last i have finished glassing the inside of my AD14 and here is the picture to it.
I am sure this is the last time I see the boat so empty. I hope to crowd it before winter with centreboard, frames, 2 stringers and sole.





Here one can see the drawn position of the centreboard case





On this one only the clock on the wall I mounted is worth mentioning to remind me of the time and to finish this build hopefully before I kick the bucket. My momentary plan is to have the splashing in summer 2016 at the latest just ahead of my 70 th birthday.





That is all for today and I will post more when I have made a bit of a move on.

Greetings Karl ( Austria )

[bondo]

Very pretty work. Light and strong. I did not cut for the centerboard until after the trunk was installed. I used the frames to help with alignment. Notches for the stringers, elevation of the sole, elevation of the trunk, straightness of the trunk. All of this gets sorted out now. I had some confusion with trunk elevation. This is the point when if you are diligent about checking level and straight and non twisted then you set the boat on track to building itself straight from that point on. (for me, the hardest part was getting the sole on) looking in great shape Gonandkarl.

[gonandkarl]

Hallo Bondo,

I only marked the trunk when I first put it in and now I will progress the same way as You did and cut the hole once the whole inside is finished and I am putting the boat on its side. Right now I am painting the trunk and the centerboard before I install the trunk.
Here are my latest pictures of it and my treasure of self produced removable ballast.









Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

[bondo]

Very nice Gonandkarl. Great work. Your ballast looks like exactly what you want.