Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Posted: **Fri Jun 14, 2013 9:15 am**

Hallo everybody,

Just ordered the plans for AD 14 and I am looking forward to build the boat KIELGE.

The last boat plan I ordered was on May 1 st 2005 for a FL11 . For some reason that I dont know myself I never built it most probably because my job was to stressful at the time. But the boat building dream exists for the last 35 years when I got the boatbuilders bug caused by some neighbors who were working on concrete boats ( the hulls were buit of chicken mesh and concrete ) in their gardens to sail the Cape to Rio race. Unfortunately a busy life with family and 3 kids and a move from South Africa to Austria came first and now that I am retired is the time to build an AD 14.

I have a brick walled shed 24 x 9 foot with a coal stove in it and a 20 x 8 foot garage where I can build.

Can anyone tell me the height of AD 14 from keel shoe to the top of the deck, because this will determine if I can build it in the shed where I can replace the existing door 205x100 cm with one of 205x150 cm ???

Posted: **Fri Jun 14, 2013 11:16 am**

If my conversions are correct that is a 3ft 4 in door (100cm). It seems to small

. Even the the 150cm door (just under 5ft) seems to small. I have a 7ft heigth garage door and my boat has about a foot of clearance. The boat is about a foot above the ground. You have to think about trailer clearance if you are going to store the boat in the sheed. I think you are to close for confort with does dimension.

BTW
I am building a AD16 it might be a little different.

Posted: **Fri Jun 14, 2013 11:23 am**

Wow, I haven't heard of anybody else wanting the AD14. That's great. Why did you choose the shorter version? BTW I've got approximately 142 cm here for a number.

Posted: **Fri Jun 14, 2013 3:31 pm**

Hallo Bondo,

Thank You for Your reply.
The number 142 is for sure the height keelshoe to top.
This would mean if I build in my shed I can get it sideways out thru a 150 cm door but just by the skin of my teeth.
It is too close. I will use the shed for cutting all the plywood, building rudder, centerboard + case and use it as a workshop even in wintertime. And when I am ready to assemble I will do it in the garage.

Why I am building the smaller Adelie has a lot to do with Your excellent job You done on Your boat the last 3 Years.
You have proved that size is not everything and I am mainly thinking of Your massive building shed.

I have read all your posts and want to reach the same quality in applying the epoxy and as I was only daysailing in small dinghys in my youth I want to do just that when it is finished. My wife is not to keen to go to the Mediterranen sea on longer cruises so I might be sailing often alone and for that it is plenty big enough.

And the building of the nice design AD 14 is just as fullfilling for me as the sailing afterwards.

Right now I am finishing Devlin's Micro Petrel and practise the stich & glue method, before I starts the AD

Greetings from Austria

Posted: **Wed Jun 19, 2013 12:40 am**

Bondo has dun a real good job on his boat I built the AD16 and have been sailing it for the past 6 years it has not let me down works gright on the west cost of Canada we can get some big water that is why i went with the 16 i tried to send you some pictures but they bounced back

Posted: **Thu Jun 20, 2013 6:47 pm**

bondo wrote:Wow, I haven't heard of anybody else wanting the AD14.

bondo,

It's a stealth popular boat. Lots of us bought the plans when they first came out in 2004. You're just the first to be actually building one. I almost started on one 2 1/2 years ago, but things came up and I couldn't devote the time to build it. Actually, the day after I received my plans 9 years ago, I cut out the skeg so I could claim title to the record of the longest AD14 build ever

It's a great little design. Jacques had a real collaboration with us when he did it http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php ... 1&start=70 and I feel as if he did a custom design for me at stock plans prices. So I had to order the plans even if I wasn't ready to build yet. With any luck at all I can start sometime in the next couple of years and maybe join you and karl in a regatta one day.

Really nice job with your build, BTW.

Laszlo

Posted: **Fri Jun 21, 2013 3:27 am**

Sorry we hijacked your thread. Das Boot knows, and has the only real experience with an AD on here. Lazlo is right. The original discussion about the design is interesting and helpful. (and it is his idea) I wondered if there were any other AD 14's. Btw I like some of Devlin's designs. Little Petrel is one of them. The extra foot is really going to pay off. Making the leap to the 1 + sheets of plywood for length doesn't seem like much but if plywood were 9 ft. long, every dingy design would be 9 ft. long. You have got to finish the petrel.

Posted: **Fri Jun 21, 2013 10:39 am**

It was Jacques' idea, we just made suggestions

Posted: **Sat Jun 22, 2013 7:23 pm**

Hallo Bondo,

Thanks for the encouragement to finish the Petrel. BTW I am not building he Little Petrel, but the Micro Petrel this saved me from having to scarf plywood on my first boat building experience. Being retired from my job as IT manager I can spend all my time building if I would not have to cart my wife to libraries, shops and other appointments besides tending the garden.
This left me nevertheless a lot of time and I should be finished in 3 weeks time. Tommorrow is the big day for glassing the outside hull. ( Start was on 16th May with taking the first photos of cut plywood panels. The Micro Petrel should be finished the latest by 31st of july . If we would not have had 3 weeks of tropical temperatures unusual for Austria and Middle Europe i could have done the fiber glas job already. )

I first printed the studyplans of Adelie 14 in 2005 as well as the D4 design of Jaques Mertens, but knew that it was a dream of the future.
I am just glad to start building this Year for sure, hope to finish it within 1 1/2 Years and will be dreaming at the same time of building the next bigger boat on which I will be able to use the Micro Petrel as a tender on the foredeck.

I cant believe that Your launch date is not close, because all You need is finish the rigging and away You go.
Or is your mast still in the making ?

Carry on doing such an exemple job on your boat. It is a pleasure to see any new photos of it.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Sat Jul 13, 2013 5:31 pm**

Hi,

At last the plans for my AD 14 have arrived and now starts the ordering of the Okoume marine plywood.

Unfortunately here in Europe it is difficult to order such quality wood panels. The fact is that there are only 2 suplliers in Germany ( Daniel Georgus offers 8x4 ' and Sommerfeld & Thiele 10x5 ' ) and they are both 800 KM away from me.
That I can compare their offers I have to first draw a new nesting plan for 10 x 5 foot sheets.

Has anybody out there done such a redrawing of the nesting plan for an AD14/16, because I believe in the US you also get the big panels ?

It sets me back a few days, but on my test boat building projekt Micro-Petrel I am also behind plan.
Right now I am fairing and sanding and fairing again and sanding again, but I hope I can put the primer paint on during next week.

Weekends I dont build on the boat because my family is not to keen on my boatbuilding activities and therefore I calm them Saturdays with the traditional barbecue.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Sun Jul 14, 2013 3:17 pm**

We do not have easy access to 5' x 10' panels in the U.S. Only 4' x 8' here. Not knowing the details I would go with the 4' x 8' for most of the boat. I think I would get two or three 5' x 10' sheets. You might be able to get both cabin sides out of one panel. The main part of the sole could be one piece. The cabin top could be one piece.
Pull drawing #D264/11. Please tell me that the mast detail on the right side of the drawing doesn't call for a 2 deg. rake.

Posted: **Sun Jul 14, 2013 5:06 pm**

Hallo Bondo,

Thank You for the suggestion about a mix of the panel sizes. I did also some drawing of the nesting on the bigger boards,
but I came to the conclusion to rather go for the 8x4 panels of Daniel Georgus.

Yes plan sheet D264/11 Sail Plan Al.Mast has the rake 2 degrees. But if I read correctly in the forum somewhere it should be 5 degrees. Once I come to building the mast step I will contact Jaques, because I want to build the Chinese Sail and that is normally with a rake forward and usually an unstayed mast.

Talking about plans I have a problem with B264/8 Appendages. At the bottom on the left side are 8 points Centre board case.
Can You tell me what it says on your plan under 5. I ordered metric plans and there it says 5. Cut 51 mm slot through bottom.
(That would be 2 inches ?!?)

Even that it says one should not study all detail before the start of the building, that is exactly what is the only thing one can do before the wood arrives.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Mon Jul 15, 2013 9:05 pm**

Yes my plans call for a 2" slot but the instructions disagree on this step. They recommend installing the trunk first. I would install the trunk first. I had a problem with the centerboard pattern and the centerboard trunk as drawn. So far I am the only one to have had a problem but there was a conflict for me. The centerboard pivot is drawn incorrectly. There is a correction for that. Detail #8 suggests rounding from the outside but the keel shoe still needs to be applied.

Posted: **Fri Jul 26, 2013 10:43 am**

At last I have ordered the plywood Okoume at a nearby supllier here in Austria. It is cheaper than the German suppliers but with the disadvantage that it comes all the way from France and I will have another wait for 6 weeks.
I tested in the meantime how to upload pictures into the builders gallery of my boatbuilding test ( Devlins Micro-Petrel ).
I should finish the boat by the end of next week. ( Inside finishing and painting is still to do and oar building according to
Jim Michalak s article )

Posted: **Sat Aug 17, 2013 12:40 pm**

Marine plywood via France? If you receive "Joubert" brand you are in luck. That is the plywood I was able to build with and I really liked it.

Posted: **Wed Oct 16, 2013 2:32 am**

Hallo everybody,

At last my Okoume plywood from France has arrived ( unfortunately one 9 mm panel short ) and I have started cutting the first panels for my AD14 build. As I justified the buy of different sanding machines and an electric file ( very narrow belt sander ) with the necessary renovating of all doors in the house I am practicing painting on the doors and hopefully the experience will help eventually painting the boat. The practice to build a smaller boat ( Micro-Petrel dinghy ) was very valuable and the splashing of it was great fun even that I did row it only once more before it is packed away for arriving Winter.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Tue Oct 22, 2013 10:39 pm**

Beautiful. Nice work Karl. Pretty little thing. Way to go with posting the picture too. 'Love the pictures. With the keel shoe, glue all the full size laminations together minus one. Keep one aside and you can dial in the total thickness to finish just proud of the centerboard edge when retracted. I believe 2 1/4" inches is called for on the plans? The real purpose of saving one part is to retain a pattern. If you find you need to get taller with your keel shoe to protect the centerboard when the boat is grounded you can copy another thickness before glueing on. You might even make one less of those keel shoe parts to begin with and save the wood for the time being.

Posted: **Wed Oct 23, 2013 5:00 am**

Hallo Bondo,
Thanks for the adice about building the keelshoe.I have one more question about it.
According to the plan one should make at the bow end a 25 mm ( about 1 " on your plan ) radius.
I cannot see it on any of your pictures.
Did you prefer it to be pointed and when yes why ?
Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Wed Oct 23, 2013 8:57 pm**

My understanding is that from the plan view/looking down the keel shoe should should be somewhat sharp.

And in the profile/side view the "corner" of the leading edge is eased (for grounding or trailer handling). Hard to see but I think mine ended up around 3/4" rad. I hope I don't find out I was wrong about this detail.

Posted: **Sat Nov 16, 2013 8:38 am**

Hi,
At last I have cut all the plywood panels for bottom, sides, transom, rudder, keelshoe, centerboard and centerboard case.
Now I carry on over Winter to laminate the pieces in my cellar workshop which has a steady 17 degrees celsius.
I also melted about 45 kg of lead which I got from a scrap yard for 1.5 € a kg. It worked fine with a camping gaz cooker
and an old pot.
Greetings from Karl

Posted: **Sat Nov 16, 2013 10:20 am**

You will blink and there will be a boat taking shape in front of you.

Posted: **Sat Nov 16, 2013 11:08 am**

Thanks KS8 for encouraging me to carry on a bit faster in Winter.
It took me so long because I had some chores like painting ten doors of my 110 year old house and getting the garden
ready for Winter.
Greetings from Karl

Posted: **Sat Dec 14, 2013 7:53 am**

Hi,
Progress is slow in comparison to all the guys building, but I have now the centerboard ready for melting the lead into it.

Posted: **Sat Dec 14, 2013 8:32 am**

Hi,
Here is a picture of the top of the centerboard, where I am planning to use the lifting system for small boats described in the How To's. I hope my AD14 is small enough that it will work.

and here one of the pivot hole which has a diameter of 16 mm while the ss pipe going thru has 15 mm.

Posted: **Mon Dec 16, 2013 10:43 am**

It looks really good. I am using the same method to lower my centreboard. The only issue Iis that the centreboard can slam back to the retracted position if the boat flips. Hopefully that never happens

Posted: **Mon Dec 16, 2013 11:01 am**

Somewhere on the plans, I show a line or a pin that keeps the CB form slamming back in the boat in case of a very unlikely 180 degree capsize.
A pin with a wooden dowel is easy yo install. Make the dowel small enough to break in case of grounding.

Posted: **Sat Dec 21, 2013 2:01 pm**

I use a ss bolt to booth hold the keel up when traveling and when he keel is down that same bolt stops it from retracting should I end up upside down

Posted: **Sat Dec 21, 2013 7:37 pm**

Cool Das boot. That's a good idea.

Posted: **Sun Dec 22, 2013 9:46 am**

Thanks jacques and das boot,

I will use such a pin when I get towards putting the keel into the finished trunk. ( "Big" problem is to choose a thin dowel or Georges ss pin. )

Right now I want to finish the trunk and leave the melting of lead on the keel because I wouldnt be able to test fit it
with an additional 56 KG.

I have a question about glassing the inside of the trunk. Should i put a small strip of glass also on all connecting 51 mm ( 2") battens with which the 2 sides of the trunk will be put together ?

I want to use as batten material paulownia wood which has the advantage that it is a hardwood nearly as light as balsa.
With my Adelie 14 I want to reach the designed weight and I think this could help me towards that goal.
I know it is beeing used on standup paddle boards. I used it as seats on my Micro-Petrel dinghy and I liked working with it.
Its woodworking characteristics is close to NW Red Cedar and it it is much cheaper here than oak for instance.

Any suggestions or comments if I should do this or experiences of forum members are very welcome.

Greetings from Karl ( and cold Austria )

Posted: **Sun Dec 22, 2013 5:25 pm**

Karl
I used WRC (Western Red Cedar) because is very rot resistance. The only issue with it is the strength. Since the sole and the frames hold the center trunk in place the battens don't need to be as strong as teak. I will use something that is rot resistance with a tick coat epoxy.

Posted: **Sun Dec 29, 2013 10:49 am**

That is great looking work. Love the pictures. My understanding is the fiberglass wrapped around the outside of the trunk is where the strength comes from. (and the frames as Stuff said) The wood isn't counted on to hold the trunk together. I used Phillapine Mahogany for all my hardwoods but I don't know what's best. I fiberglassed the inside of my trunk parts before assembly but the centerboard (with no painter) actually bears against the keel shoe if allowed to drop.

Posted: **Sun Dec 29, 2013 2:20 pm**

I made some mistakes while glassing the inside of the keel box after putting it in place and glassing it I put heave glass around the corners thinking it was smart but it was to heave to take the bend and I have had cracking problems with it last year I had to grind a bunch of off and re do it . As for the pin I used a SS bolt my thought was while traveling the doul could brake letting the keel drag. The only problem as after the first year the holes in the side of the keel box started to go out round so I drilled it out bigger and put a brass tube through booth the box and the keel. I then put a reinforcement on the outside of the keel box after it was all lined up and bogged in place I used a hack saw blade to slide down beside the keel and cut the copper tube on booth sides. After cleaning it up it looks good and have had no more problems with it when the keel is down I stick the bolt into the hole that stops the keel coming up if inverted while trailing I put a a lock nut on it so it can not fall out it works fine.

Posted: **Mon Dec 30, 2013 12:52 pm**

Thank You Bondo and Das Boot,

The two of you are teaching me hopefully right up to the end of my boat.

Thanks for the tip that the strength comes from the outside fiberglass.

I will just fiberglass the big inside panels of the centerboard case and put enough resin on the battens and I will be using beech wood for battens because jaques advised that the weight gain of Paulownia is minimal and one should not risk using it.
I will make the locking pin like you explained and because I have lots of ss pipe and ss rod from the pivot over I will be using 2 pieces of pipe and a ss rod as the pin on the case including some reinforcement on the deck sides.

I wish George a speedy recovery and Bondo that he will be able to post soon the newest pictures of your very last lap towards the splashing. I am writing from my bed in the local hospital (is only 200 m away from my house) where I am staying sinc Dec 23 because of a slipped disk in my back after having transferred all my lead pieces into the winter workshop in much too heavy buckets in the wise foresight that they are ideal as weights for the splicing.

Lesson learned : Dont carry heavy weights and definitely not with one hand.

Happy New Year and greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Sun Jun 01, 2014 1:02 pm**

Hallo everybody,

I have a specific question to all Adelie builders:
On the nesting plan sheet is the suggestion to cut out of a 13 mm plywood the rudder twice, the transom 3 times, but the stem only once.
Did you all build your Adelies with just a 13 mm thick stem ?
I tend to laminate 2 pieces to have more strength in it like the rudder.
( I am thinking specially about pulling the boat onto a trailer where the whole weight of the boat is on the stem. )

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Mon Jun 02, 2014 11:20 pm**

Hi gonandkarl. I built mine with only 1 layer of plywood per plan. I don't have any concerns about strength. The fiberglass tabbing inside and out are strong and overlap/double each other. I have a plate washer backing the inside of my bow eye. I don't expect too much of a load under normal use but I'm sure the bow eye could handle the full weight of the boat. Btw, I carelessly installed my stem with a twist in it. I have been chasing after it ever since to make it look right. Hope you guys are doing well.

Posted: **Tue Jun 03, 2014 3:15 am**

Hallo Bondo,

Thank you very much for the info, I will do it naturally your way. I forgot that the strength comes from the fiberglass connection to the sides of the boat.
I am doing well with my build and I will post some pictures as soon I have the cradle finished.

Did You actually bevel the frames of the cradle to follow the form of the bottom and sides of the boat ?

Greetings from Karl

Posted: **Tue Jun 03, 2014 10:18 am**

Hey gonandkarl. I did not bevel any of the cradle frames. However I did re adjust and modify my cradle several times along the way to better fit what I had. For example, I know my hull is about 1/4" deeper "V" than per plan in the middle. Check, and re check to know what's going on but at some point you"ll want to build the boat that's in front of you.

Posted: **Tue Jul 08, 2014 5:21 am**

Hallo everbody,

At last a bit of a progress report:
First I had to modify my entrance to the building shed, because I decided to use it rather than the only single garage we have got:

The shed beforehand:

The shed with the new opening:

And then with the original door mounted on the left handside on a removable half frame and
two doors which can be lifted out easyly:

Then I played with pouring lead into the centreboard, which was ok but right at the end on the big hole I poured the lead to hot and to much and it melted out thru the bottom support of aluminium:

That means still a lot of work to get it completely flush with the surface.

As the keel is build of about 10 narrow pieces of plywood I decided to use the cutouts for the centreboard as lamination pieces for the tiller. I hope it will become a nice tiller:

Then I carried on a bit with the centerboard trunk and it is now ready for sanding and installation.
The bottom curvature I will only cut at installation time, therefore it stands evenly on the work bench

Next came the lamination of the side and bottom panels:

And in the last few days I finished the cradle and stitched bottom panels and the starboard side panel:

The bottompanels I stitched finished beforehand and then could open them like a book into the cradle:
( I learned this from Devlins boat building book )

That is all for the day and I wish You all happy building.

Greetings Karl

Posted: **Fri Jul 11, 2014 12:49 am**

Looking good Karl. I like the new access. Very professional job. The boat parts are showing nice work too. I read the Devlin book as well. Speaking of Devlin, his fillets are much larger than specified in the AD plans. I wanted slightly larger (for no reason) radius fillets than the 1/2" called for but I ended up too big. I was afraid to pour the lead but it looks like you've got it. I worry that a plywood-laminated tiller might have some unwanted flex to it. Looks like a great place to build a boat Karl. Oh, you might be interested, the DWL for an AD14 is 1,340# and the PPI is 240#.

Posted: **Fri Jul 11, 2014 6:12 am**

Hallo Bondo,

Thank you for your answer. As if You must have guessed I was puzzling in the last few days about the displacement of AD14 because of the trailer that I should get.
Did You get the figure 1340 pounds for DWL and 240 PPI from Jaques or did You weigh your boat ready to sail and calculate the PPI figure somehow ? That would mean about half of that in kilogramm the trailer should be able to carry as a load weight. The PPI is mentioned by Ted Brewer as rather more interesting than the DWL. My understanding of pounds per inch is the pressure onto the submerged part of the boat. Am I right with this or what else can one interpret out of PPI ? Can we deduct from this figures that our AD14 is a heavy displacement hull ? For me the questions never end.

I have 2 questions that You can answer for sure.
Did You put the boats sides onto the bottom panels with a little gap for putty and then bevel the bottom panels to be flush with the sides or did You put them edge on edge and have the putty and taping do the corner ?
( Devlin suggests to bevel bottom and side by 45 degrees, which I did when I built Micro-Petrel, but I think it is not necessary and one could save time.)
Did You fiberglass the inside of the boat as advised in the notes just above the chine or all the way up to the sheer ?

Greetings Karl

Posted: **Fri Jul 11, 2014 9:49 am**

Please post technical questions like weight and displacement in the technical section of the forum.
http://forums.bateau2.com/viewforum.php?f=18
I do sometimes miss posts in this section.

About weight and displacement.
The study plans show the trailer weight. This is the complete boat weight without the outboard, mast and sails or inside ballast. It includes the boat with all it's hardware, portholes and everything that is permanently part of the boat.
I calculated it that way because I expected builders to ask about the minimum weight to tow, with the outboard and ballast in the trunk of the car and the mast on the roof. That allows the use of a small trailer.
That minimum trailer weight is 565 lbs or 257 kg:
http://www.bateau.com/studyplans/AD14_s ... ?prod=AD14

I prefer a trailer with more capacity and the ballast fixed in the boat but that idea of minimum trailer weight makes sense in Europe where cars are smaller and big trailers rare.
When living in Europe, I have towed boats that way.

The displacement at 12" (310 mm) is 1835 lbs and the PPI is 256 lbs.
In metric, 832 kg and 45 kg/cm.

Those are calculated values for the boat built as designed.
The other figure was for a waterline at 10": empty boat, no crew, no stores.
Before more questions are asked: the DWL is at 33 cm (13"), the calculated displacement I give above is for 31 cm and the one at 10" (254 mm) is the boat floating at the design baseline.
In most cases, the boat with 2 persons and gear, ready to sail, will be at 31 cm draft. Heavy load = 33, empty = 25.

I am certain about the values of 1835 and 256. Those are the ones calculated at the time of the design.

PPI is Pounds Per Inch of Immersion.
It means that, at the waterline, it takes 256 lbs to bring the waterline up by 1".
In metric, at DWL, it takes 45 kg to bring the hull down 1 cm.

Calculated at another WL, it would be different.

One last word about weight: it will depend on how you build and load the boat. Some builders will build her light and will be able to have more ballast. Reports have been positive: boats built float in their lines and sail well.

About beveling, don't.
We do not build the boats the same way than Devlin. While trying to improve, you could make the hull weaker.
We want that epoxy putty in the corner.

Posted: **Tue Jul 15, 2014 6:38 pm**

Hi Karl. I fiberglassed above the sole inside the cabin with 3.2 oz cloth I believe. If I were to build this boat again it would be closer to the way Jacques recommends but I am happy with what I have.

Posted: **Wed Jul 16, 2014 8:17 am**

Hi,

At last I have spotwelded the first seems of the hull :

Greetings Karl

Posted: **Thu Jul 17, 2014 6:39 pm**

Good work Karl. Nice and fair and it looks like good plywood. Reminder that the written instructions omit the step of fiberglassing the bottom before installing any frames. It is shown on the drawing of the boat's fiberglass schedule. I like the pictures, keep them coming.

Posted: **Mon Sep 15, 2014 5:23 am**

Hi,

I made a bit of progress and here are my latest pictures:

Here I have finished just about all inside tapes

Because of my heavy weight I thought hanging support of a working platform is necessary.
In practice it was difficult to crawl along it and tape the side seams therefore I did the rest of the taping with the support of just 10 cm thick polystyrene pieces of foam which are here in Austria normally used to insulate houses on the outside.
I will use the supports for lifting and turning the boat like bondo did. As this straps said one should not use them for lifting I installed on the wall my electric hoist to do the lifting which works fine. I tested it by lifting the whole building frame and the boat.

After having glassed the bottom I am now ready to put the glass on the inside

Greetings Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Tue Sep 16, 2014 7:49 pm**

Everything is looking great Karl. That is actually a difficult stage, crawling in there. For me, this part up until the floor was on was the hardest physically to work on.

Posted: **Sat Sep 20, 2014 3:17 am**

Hallo everbody,

At last i have finished glassing the inside of my AD14 and here is the picture to it.
I am sure this is the last time I see the boat so empty. I hope to crowd it before winter with centreboard, frames, 2 stringers and sole.

Here one can see the drawn position of the centreboard case

On this one only the clock on the wall I mounted is worth mentioning to remind me of the time and to finish this build hopefully before I kick the bucket. My momentary plan is to have the splashing in summer 2016 at the latest just ahead of my 70 th birthday.

That is all for today and I will post more when I have made a bit of a move on.

Greetings Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Fri Sep 26, 2014 10:03 am**

Very pretty work. Light and strong. I did not cut for the centerboard until after the trunk was installed. I used the frames to help with alignment. Notches for the stringers, elevation of the sole, elevation of the trunk, straightness of the trunk. All of this gets sorted out now. I had some confusion with trunk elevation. This is the point when if you are diligent about checking level and straight and non twisted then you set the boat on track to building itself straight from that point on. (for me, the hardest part was getting the sole on) looking in great shape Gonandkarl.

Posted: **Sat Sep 27, 2014 4:33 am**

Hallo Bondo,

I only marked the trunk when I first put it in and now I will progress the same way as You did and cut the hole once the whole inside is finished and I am putting the boat on its side. Right now I am painting the trunk and the centerboard before I install the trunk.
Here are my latest pictures of it and my treasure of self produced removable ballast.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Mon Sep 29, 2014 7:39 pm**

Very nice Gonandkarl. Great work. Your ballast looks like exactly what you want.

Posted: **Tue Dec 02, 2014 12:50 pm**

Hallo everybody,

At last I made a bit of progress.

Here is the picture of the installed centreboard trunk:

This is the dry fitting stage of the frames A, B, C and D which I made out of chipboard and cheap plywood and I will use them as patterns on the the expensive Okoume plywood:

And this two funny things will eventually become the boom. I put the fiberglass sleeve over a hard foam pipe and I battled doing this until I found out that one has to push it over the foam kernel instead of pulling it because by pulling it, it tightened itself all the time. That is why the ends dont look so good.

Of my 3 grownup children even the oldest one moved out of our house to her own flat at the tender age of 37.

This gives me over Winter a nice big heated bedroom which is now an additional boat building room besides the 2 workshop rooms I have in the cellar.

I hope to get a few things done over Winter .

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

P.S.: I always mention my homeland Austria, because it is so small and could easily be mistaken for Australia which You all know is Salvatore s land.

Posted: **Tue Dec 02, 2014 1:17 pm**

Mighty clean work

.

Posted: **Tue Dec 02, 2014 2:17 pm**

gonandkarl wrote:
P.S.: I always mention my homeland Austria, because it is so small

Don't tell Luxemburg

Very nice work on that AD, I hope we sea

this one progress including the splash!

Grüß Gott from Curacao (I think its even smaller as Wien

)

Posted: **Tue Dec 02, 2014 3:21 pm**

Your boat is looking good do take a hint from how bondo did his and before you secure the seats and cabin top get your sanding and painting of the inside or at least as much as you can before sealing it up. I did not do it that way and by doing it later I do not know how much dust I took in to my body not smart but I wanted to see it put together. Trying to get into the birth area to sand and paint once finished was a chore do it the smart way. Keep up the good work.

Posted: **Tue Dec 02, 2014 6:40 pm**

Yep. Whatever you do, I'm sure you'll think it through first.

My boat doesn't have a cabin top, but I did paint the cuddy interior, and the underside of the cuddy top, before sealing it shut. Very glad I did. But it meant some thinking first, such as making the top of two thinner laminates, so I could lock in the curved shape before bonding it permanently to the boat. It worked out well.

Of course, all the bonding areas were kept free of any of the finishing system, so there would be a good structural bond.

Enjoy thinking yours through.

Posted: **Tue Dec 02, 2014 10:51 pm**

How do you intend to get the curve on the seat edge ? I tried 3 or 4 ways to do it with the least amount of filler I ended up cutting ply into 1 inch strips then running them through the saw putting a 20 degree bevel on each side one going each way so they ended up like a wedge shape and when layed into place it worked out fine with the least amount of filler food for thought. It worked for me.

Posted: **Wed Dec 03, 2014 5:57 am**

das boot wrote:How do you intend to get the curve on the seat edge ? I tried 3 or 4 ways to do it with the least amount of filler I ended up cutting ply into 1 inch strips then running them through the saw putting a 20 degree bevel on each side one going each way so they ended up like a wedge shape and when layed into place it worked out fine with the least amount of filler food for thought. It worked for me.

Maybe this helps?

Posted: **Wed Dec 03, 2014 7:06 am**

Hallo das boot and peter-curacao,

Thank you both very much, that is exactly how I want to do it.
George gave me the perfect description and Peter shows me the stages with nice pictures.

Unfortunately I am still far of making the seat tops, but then I just have to look it up here to refresh my mind.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Thu Dec 04, 2014 9:24 pm**

G,day Karl,

She's comming along nicely, you are doing well to be able to work in a cold climate. I noticed in you pictures dated 29/11/14 that B frame sits a little high, I had the same issue I was carefull to correct it so that the cabin sides came together correctly this will help reduce on fairing afterwoods also run your eye along the curve of top of the boat sides try and keep them as true as a curve as possible. I was able to keep by boat weight down by keeping the curve as true as I could. once again great work.
Salvatore.

Posted: **Tue Feb 24, 2015 4:57 am**

Hallo my friends,

Yes the frame B sits a bit high, but I just put it all together as a test just to see if I am horribly wrong with my cut plywood.

I like the idea about getting the curvature of the deck with 2 thinner pieces of plywood. I will definitely do it as well as the painting and finishing of the inside as far as possible before I cant move in there anymore.

As I cannot work with epoxy right now in the boat shed even that I fired my coal stove a lot, only to reach 12 degrees celsius I gave some loose pieces like sole stringers frames B and C a coat of epoxy inside the house.

This weekend we had a visitor who showed a little bit of interest in my boatbuilding and therefore after lunch and pudding I forced him and also my family to have a look at my progress after having quickly chucked all above pieces onto the boat that one gets an idea what it will eventually look like.

Here are two pictures of it:

Test fitting of the sole with cutouts for access to storage
The holes to lift the hatches I copied from the glass shower door of our recent cruiseship cabin

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Tue Feb 24, 2015 9:14 am**

Nice.
I know what you mean about forcing people to look at the boat

. I have a whole collection of interests that no one I know gives a groat about, so it is so nice to have this forum to share with people who do. Perhaps I should take up gardening. Tons of people enjoy that sort of thing

.

Posted: **Thu Feb 26, 2015 3:46 am**

Hi Karl, I agree it is nice to be able to share with others of like mined. and your boat is coming along nicely. Your picture dated 22/5/15 shows just loos hatches on your cabin deck, I may be wrong but I'd be amiss if I didn't ask, Are you putting in proper water tight hatches

One of the things I liked about the ad14/16 was that the cabin floor acts as a second hull. the cabin floor sits at around the waterline if you where to put a hole in the boat it would still float, it came across as a nice safety feature to me also a lot of that space I filled with foam. Perhaps some other boat builders can add to this question.

Posted: **Thu Feb 26, 2015 4:29 am**

Hallo Salvatore,

The loose hatches in the cabinfloor are just lids to get to the storage space underneath. I will also put foam under the sole outside the longitudinal stringers except between frame B and C. The loose hatches on deck are explained easily, because they are the seat tops cut roughly to size and with a coat of epoxy just lying on frame D and nothing one sees on the picture is fitted permanently. I piled everything together to get a rough idea how it will look like once it is finished.
The big top hatch I want to build like you have described to me earlier but also this is still future music.
Right now I am battling to sew my main sail which will be a Chinese Chunksail according to my own sailplan. It has the same size 11 squaremetres but it is not like the sailplan of the AD14. I am making 5 equal parallelograms with two-pannel fanned head in total seven pannel and 3-part single sheets with two 3-point spans and the top batten will not be sheeted. The book of HG Hasler and JK McLeod Practical Junk Rig is a great help to design ones own sail. But the problem lies in the detail of using my wifes sewing machine and handling big pieces of sailcloth. When it is finished I will post a picture of it.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Thu Feb 26, 2015 6:45 am**

Hallo everybody,

About my loose hatches in my cabin sole I have an afterthought. I will make them watertight but because its inside the cabin I wanted to make it cheap until I have splashed the boat and hopefully until it is watertight I wont have a hole below ( rather unlikely in our local lakes ). This will be a project for the next Winter like John Almberg sometimes says because when you cant sail you can get on with maintenance. His link is well worth visiting . http://www.unlikelyboatbuilder.com

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Thu Feb 26, 2015 8:53 am**

I had the same concern about the hatches, although I've seen much more dangerous arrangements on production boats. But I see you have it sorted.

Thanks for the link. It looks right up my alley.

I admire you for undertaking the sewing of the sail and for going for the junk rig. There are very few of the arts of the sailor that I have no interest in, and sewing is one of them. I love ropes and knots and woodworking and navigation and rigging and weather study and stowage plans and...ok, sanding and varnishing and changing oil on the diesel (which you appear to have skipped) are also not favorites.

As for sewing, I use sticky-back tape or alternatively a spare sail for emergencies, and then I take the sail to a professional with a big machine and a loft. I've survived many decades now this way and I probably won't change. It's nothing I'm proud of, but a weakness that I've learned to accept.

Posted: **Thu Feb 26, 2015 9:13 am**

Hallo Tony,

I am making the sail myself because having a sail made here in innermost of Europe is hardly possible or horribly expensive.
The first thing I assume a sailmaker thought of me when I showed him my sailplan and asked for a quote, that I must be filthy rich. After that I had to tackle it myself.
In another thread I have read that you wrote a book about your circumnavigation. I would like to buy the book but cant find the thread where you mentioned it. Please let me know the title.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Thu Feb 26, 2015 9:25 am**

That's funny about the sailmaker. But by building the sail yourself you'll not only learn a lot but get so much practice that any sail repair will be easy. It really is an essential seaman's skill.
The book is "The Captain and Mr. Shrode" and can be found here in print or digital form:
http://www.amazon.com/The-Captain-Mr-Sh ... mr.+shrode

Posted: **Fri Feb 27, 2015 11:33 pm**

Looking good you should be able to get it in the water by fall weather permiting keep up the good work.

Posted: **Sat Feb 28, 2015 7:39 am**

Hallo George,

Thanks for the encouragement and I will try to water her this autumn. Whenever I have got time I look at all your pictures of your boat which I downloaded onto my PC in the folder GEORGES_pictures. Have you ever heard of the Arizona builder who I think uploaded your pictures. Is he just sailing his AD16 and not posting here anymore ?

I would like to ask you this question:

How high did you mount the eye bolt ( I think it is called like that in English ) on the bow, or/and did the height of the trailerwinch influence where to put it ?

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Sun Mar 01, 2015 12:42 pm**

Hi Karl.
Funny you should ask that question that was just one of many things I did wrong but the one I regret every time I lunch the boat. I have mine mounted too high and when I bring the boat onto the trailer I have a problem with the bow sprit hitting on the winch and I have to fight to get the trailer strap hooked to that tie down point. As my ne is to high and I need to hook over not under the winch. I welded an metal and tried to mount the winch higher but it dose not work well. it should bring the tie down strap under the winch to work properly but since I filled that bow compartment of my boat with foam and glassed it in it would be hard to re mount that point. I will get you a measurement later today and send it to you.

Posted: **Sun Mar 01, 2015 3:03 pm**

Karl wrote:
How high did you mount the eye bolt ( I think it is called like that in English ) on the bow, or/and did the height of the trailerwinch influence where to put it ?

G,day Karl, The post hitch varies on many trailers, some have adjustable ones, wait until you have your trailer before putting in the front eye bolt. I needed to put my eye-bolt as high as i could because i wanted to use that point for the chain that goes to my bowsprit. You don't have to do that. I had to weld my adjustable hitch as I was at the top end of its adjusting point

My Youtube Channel http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCK7N0Z3MuI9Awisupeh_7dw

Posted: **Sun Mar 01, 2015 10:57 pm**

Hi . Salvatore go it better than I did but I got stopped by the cops that told the winch needs to have the line going out under the winch so that on the road it is pulling down mine is like the one pictured and the tie down strap gose from the top of the winch. I did not get a ticket just told to fix it never got stopped again. But when I see other boats at the ramp they come from the bottom.

Posted: **Mon Mar 02, 2015 12:51 am**

Hi George, Never heard of such a thing? The winch will not work the other way. In Australia the cable goes over the top not under, we don’t have that problem here, you just make sure you strap your bout down well, it may be a rule for the US State that you are in

My Youtube Channel http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCK7N0Z3MuI9Awisupeh_7dw

Posted: **Mon Mar 02, 2015 3:55 am**

Hallo George and Salvatore,

Thank you both so much for the information how you fit the eye bolt on your boats. I think I will take up the advise to wait until I have got a trailer and then decide where to put the eyebolt once I have the boat lifted onto the trailer. In the meantime I will have a look how the cable goes normally here to the winch underneath or over the top. A little detail which I hadnt thought of till you both told me. T
Today I carry on sewing my sail ( takes longer than I thought ) because the weather here in Austria is still too lousy to work with epoxy on the boat.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Sun Apr 26, 2015 3:45 pm**

Hi,
At last I can report a bit of progress. Because of the cold weather here it was impossible to work with epoxy in my boatshed.
I have got an old coal stove in there but after firing it up for hours I reached only 15 degree celsius and there I reached the point to leave the boat alone and carry on in my cellar workshop as well as in the diningroom. There I started sawing my Chinese Chunk sail initially out of white politarp until I realised that this stuff is to heavy and much to akward to sew and then I ordered proper sailcloth for 80 euros and finished the sail in rather long sessions at the sawing machine. Here is a picture of it spread out on the lawn in the garden:

Then I went about producing the boom and the yard both the same length ( 3 m ) and made them over an insulation foam core and a layer of fiberglass sleave. I got this foam only in 2 metre length therfore I had to make out of two 2 metre long pieces a 3 metre long spar. I cut a 40 cm piece of the first hard fiberglass pipe cut it open lengthwise squashed it abit and inserted it with a bit of epoxy into the two pieces I wanted to join to reach 3 m length. then I put another fiberglass sleeve over it and 2 carbon sleeves and at last one more fiberglass sleeve to have them finished for fairing and now they look like this :

When I made the second spar I used peelply tape over every sleeve that I epoxied and the result was much nicer and the end weight was also lower: The first boom weighs 1,640 kg and the second one 1,759 Kg

I also made myself 2 pushpits out of foam covered with 2 fiberglass sleeves, 2 carbon sleeves and another fiberglass sleeve. I dont really know if this will be strong enough but once I have them mounted on the seats PS and SB I will test
hang my weight onto it. Right now before fairing they look like this :

One picture of the sail I find quite cute because it looks as if the pinguin on the sail looks at my bored dog behind it:

And now that the temperature outside is turning nicer I wil start fitting frame A, D and the longitudinal frames in the next few days.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Sun Apr 26, 2015 10:03 pm**

Nice sail and spars but..

1,640 kg and the second one 1,759 Kg

That might be a bit heavy for spars. I'm not real good in metric but a 3,700 pound mast on that boat might be a little top heavy

Posted: **Mon Apr 27, 2015 2:24 am**

Hallo Larry,

I like your pun, but I just mentioned the weight ( with a comma sign ! ) because I was myself surprised that these spars only weigh in a little bit over 3 pounds each. The pushpits also weigh only a bit over 2 pounds each and seem as strong as steel.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Mon Apr 27, 2015 9:19 am**

Yes Larry, in Europe they use a comma as a decimal.
Those carbon spars look good.

Posted: **Mon Apr 27, 2015 11:04 am**

Yes Larry, in Europe they use a comma as a decimal.

I didn't know that. Learn something new every day

Crackers use commas to separate thousands from hundreds, and decimals

Posted: **Mon Apr 27, 2015 4:28 pm**

Hallo Larry,

Whenever you say something about boat building it always makes a lot of sense and I like reading all your comments.
This in mind I could not stop thinking about your remark, that the yard might be top heavy and maybe you really meant it.

What if it is not a mistake to make the yard the same size ( diameter 2 inches ) as the boom. After long thinking I came to the conclusion that I wont go back and build a lighter yard ( maybe with a diameter of 1 1/2 inches ) because I would only gain a weight reduction by 25 % and then it would turn out maybe at 1.2 kg ( = about 2 1/2 pounds ) and I dont have to follow Larry ' s advice to do everthing twice to make it real good. I am sure the chance to make something twice will still come at the latest when I make a real big mistake.

But with all this brainstorming about my spars I came up with the decision that I will use the lighter one of the two as yard and the heavier one as boom although according to Hasler's Practical Chunksail Rig there is not much force on either of the two.

And the good news besides thinking about the past things I got frame A spotwelded into the boat today in 20 minutes after measuring the 100 % right position beforehand for hours.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Mon Apr 27, 2015 4:58 pm**

Are you planning a junk sail or a lug sail or something in between named a chinese lug?
I have the Hassler book and the Van loan book but our sail plan is a little different, it's a modified chinese lug.

Posted: **Tue Apr 28, 2015 10:27 am**

Hallo Jacques,

I am planning a Junk Rig and designed it according to HG Haslers book ( Practical Junk Rig - Design, Aerodynamics & Handling ). This lets me use a freestanding alu mast ( 6,10 m ) and and I wont have the problem with side spreader lines touching the sail. But I will put the fittings on each side of the boat if I ever should use a Marconi rig and a foresail and the I need to support the mast. The rig will be very similar to Haslers boat Pilmer : All battens the same length, five-panel parallelogram with two-fannel head, total seven panels with 3-part single sheets with two three-point spans, top batten not sheeted, long batten parrels, luff hauling parrel, no downhauls and all hauling ropes led to the cockpit.
I just stuck to the sailsize designed by you. ( 11.35 square meter )

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Tue Apr 28, 2015 11:42 am**

OK but you shouldn't worry about the shrouds. That was completely ridiculous fear, our shrouds angle is standard in many boats.
Anyway, I like a free standing mast and the multiple sheets set up. It can be fun to play with and efficient.

Posted: **Wed Apr 29, 2015 12:59 pm**

Perfect project for winter,

Posted: **Thu Apr 30, 2015 2:13 am**

Hallo Ks8,

Yes all projects small enough to be done inside the house are put back for realisation in Winter like my 2 walkon deck hatches ( Inside opening 40/40 cm ). Can you believe that this size deck hatch I need cannot be bought anywhere. I need it to drop the Porta Potti which is 38,5/43 cm in one of them and the small outboard motor in the other. Before I do them I will study all pictures that you put in your library. These hatches you built seem perfect and waterproof which is a must for my walkon deck hatches that I have to mount on the sloping ( selfbaling ) floor towards the transom.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Thu Apr 30, 2015 2:15 am**

I meant an inside opening of 40/50 cm.

Posted: **Thu Apr 30, 2015 12:45 pm**

Guten Tag Karl,

When I open my hatches, any water on the structure around the opening drips or runs into the opening. The best way to make the hatch is probably to have a runoff channel around the opening, deep and wide enough to handle and drain away (to somewhere) any maximum amount of water near the opening, and maybe even a slight downward edge on the hatch around its outside, an edge that descends a little into the runoff channel. I think Joel made a few of those, and some other builders. It is a little more complicated to make it strong enough to walk on. The *lip* of the opening needs to be thick enough to make the properly sized drainage channel in it, and still be plenty strong enough to support a maximum load of stomping or falling (ouch) on the hatch cover (for a horizontal hatch). Not difficult, but certainly more effort than a very simple hatch.

I tried to make my hatches less complicated (for me

), where the water seal is mostly accomplished by a custom fitting gasket, made of a bead of 4200, shaped by squishing it between the finished hatch *cover* and the surrounding finished opening surface, with both surfaces taped with packing tape to prevent the 4200 from sticking, and then letting it cure to the perfect seal shape. After removing the cured gasket is then permanently glued to one surface with some other more permanent sealing adhesive (5200?). 4200 is slightly flexible and compressible, but does not stick well (by design), so it needs some help on one of the surfaces to stay stuckeded, once shaped and cured. I have not yet perfected that method, but when I do, I'll post on my thread.

For current use, the hatches are water-tight enough for me, at this time, but it is not my ideal custom shaped and fitted hatch system. I did not aim to keep any water from ever getting in the stowage, because, it is a boat, an open boat, in a very wet environment already.

But I did want certain hatches to keep the stowage compartment *mostly dry*, and more importantly, stay sealed enough so the chamber would be a buoyancy chamber, in case the boat was swamped or worse. Such a hatch is much easier to accomplish than the more complicated ideal.

If you would like, I could sketch something closer to my ideal, but it will not be an engineering drawing. Just a freehand *concept*. Probably something like others posted already, but it is not always easy to find other posted pictures. I would label it well in the gallery section, to make a search much easier.

Sincerely,
ks (que es... what is.... was ist... karl)

Posted: **Fri May 01, 2015 5:21 am**

Hi Ks8,

Thank you so much for the explanation how I can make it with a channel. I am not sure yet if I will make it like that or the not so komplicated version that You described lateron. For the one with the lip I thought I can use a cheap plastic moving container and its lid ( has correct opening size ) as moldings for fibreglass mat which is quite an effort to make the 2 parts.
I tend to your make of hatch covers because I would not mind if the surrounding water drips inside when I open it which I will only do when the weather is fine and waves are small.
To your method I have a question what is a 4200 bead you mentioned ?
Is it some kind of silicone?
( I am not sure I can get 4200 here )

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Wed May 06, 2015 7:06 am**

The 4200 mentionned from Ks8 is a marine sealant from 3M. As alternative, here in Europe you can find a range of similar products under the names Pantera, Sika and others... do a search in the net, there are a lot of marine shops selling those products, or try in the nearest marine shop ;)

Posted: **Mon May 11, 2015 4:31 pm**

Hi,

As I have a lot of knotfree pine 25x25 mm ( 1 inch square ) battens I would like to use them as cleats along the bottom frames where then the floor will be epoxied on it. I understand that they are just to be mounted to produce a bigger area on which the floor will be resting. For the first cleats along frame A and B I used beech wood, but I cant find more of it in the local hardware stores.

My question is can I use knotfree pine for these cleats ( epoxied all over before glueing it with wood putty to the frames ) or should it be rather some hardwood.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Mon May 11, 2015 5:11 pm**

Pine is fine.

Posted: **Sat May 16, 2015 2:38 am**

Hi,

I just finished putting in the 2 long stringer frames in my boat and now I am busy glueing the battens against all the bottom frames to hold the floor which will be filled with 2 component foam underneath to make it unsinkable.

Shall I put any pipes ( you power boat guys call it chasing tubes ) under the berth floors from the transom towards midship for later electric cables before I put foam there or does it make more sense to install any electric cables under the seats in the top corner of the 2 berths ?

Has anyone just epoxied the berths and the stowage area under the floor with white tinted epoxy instead of boat paint ?
I think of doing that because there will never be any UV rays getting there.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Sat May 16, 2015 9:31 am**

I used tinted epoxy in my lockers and I think it's pretty common. Of course, if you don't like it, you can always paint it later. The advantage is, you already have the epoxy and the tint won't cost much. Here's a picture before I installed the bow seat:

The power boaters will be more expert on the chase tubes, and I would say it wouldn't hurt. On the other hand, as long as you can secure the wires under the berths in a way that they are protected from stuff you might jam in there for storage, that would be OK. What I would avoid is denying yourself later access to the entire length of the wire should it it become necessary to replace it (or add another wire) for some reason. Either way will work as long as you can pull the wire through the tube. The worst thing to do is to bury wires in epoxy or some other kind of goop or behind a panel that is glassed in. A lot of production boats have this problem.

Posted: **Mon May 18, 2015 10:28 pm**

Looking good the only wires from the back of the boat 1 wire for light 1 wire for fish finder and 1 to charge the battery from the motor I just drilled a whole through each frame at the top and pulled them to my wiring box that way. It is a good idea to mix colour into the epoxy once you get the seat tops in place it is hard to get in there to paint so do everything you can at this point.

Posted: **Tue May 19, 2015 2:47 am**

Hallo George / Tony,
Thank you so much for the confirmation about the tinted epoxy and I will also lead the wiring thru the frames like you George has done. Your boat is all the time a reference to what I want to get mine to. ( I have printed out a few photos of your boat and keep them in my AD14 file always ready to look at.) My skil is not so that I can build myself a Wally Boat but I at least dont want to make big mistakes and get it in the foreseeable future into the water. Or as my wife says that as a libra starsign I am no good for boat building because I want everything straight and perfect. I will try my best and present new pictures soon.
Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Tue May 19, 2015 8:08 am**

Hi,

The newest pictures of my boat just before I fitted the battens along the frames for the floor boards:

Longitudinal_frames_fitted

Transom_dry_fitting

Centreboard_case_and_long_frames

View_from_bow_with_dry_fitted_transom

Transom_with_rudder-fittings

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Tue May 19, 2015 9:02 am**

A lot of solid progress there, Karl.

Posted: **Tue May 19, 2015 4:09 pm**

Hi,

I had a very active day driving my wife to some shops, doing some work on the computer for the firm I was employed at before retirement and thinking all the time that Salvatore finished his boat in something like 8 months.
That made me take a quick decision that towards the evening I will try and fill the 2 front parts under the floor with foam.
I had 14 bottles of 2K foam and I was told that 2 component foam does not expend all that much. In the back of my mind was some boatbuilders question "How much foam do I need per kubik foot ?" which Jacques answered lengthy . Unfortunately I did not read it properly because it was not in the metric system which we use here in Europe.

The result of my hasty work towards the evening just to feel good that I did something on the boat you can see here
and I advise anyone not to copy that:

I started filling in foam on the starboard side and when it came out of five 1 1/4 inch holes I cut into a temporary floorboard
I knew that 8 or nine bottles was to much.

Then I thought on the portside I have only 5 bottles of foam left to put in that it would not be enough.
I was again wrong:

And here one can see the complete mess. Luckily I carried my 120 pounds of lead ballast from the cellar to the boatshed
to hold the temporary floorboards down so I hope I will be able to fix it tomorow reasonably well.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Tue May 19, 2015 7:41 pm**

What a mess!! You can just saw that stuff off, though.
You have a flush cut saw?

Posted: **Wed May 20, 2015 2:40 am**

Yes thank god for Stanley handsaws.

Posted: **Tue Jun 02, 2015 1:22 am**

I SEE YOU INSTALLED SOME SCESS PORTS INTO THE BIRTH AREA NEAR THE BACK THAT IS A REAL GOOD IDEA I PLAN ON DOING THAT MOD ON MY BOAT ONE OF THESE DAYS. kEEP UP THE GOOD WORK

Posted: **Tue Jun 02, 2015 2:41 am**

Hallo George,
Yes I have seen this inspection holes on some other boat and I thought it would be a good idea to have them. The two of them only cost 8 Euros each and have a screw on watertight lid. I did install them because I thought it would be much more difficult to install a chest with a lid on the seat like you have for your gas.
Right now I am still busy with the foam under the floor but I hope to finish it today and then I will post new pictures.
Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Thu Jun 04, 2015 4:14 pm**

Hi,

Today is a religious holiday in Austria and we got real high temperatures ( 31 celsius ). On this holiday it is custom to praise the lord from nicely decorated boats on the local lakes and the whole thing is becoming a big tourist attraction. As one should not work on a Roman Cathlic holiday ( definitely not with loud homeworkers machines like shop vacs and grinders ) I had the idea to finish the under floor foam at last which does not make any noice. It took me 38 bottles of 400 ml foam ( 200 Euros ) and the best part of the last 5 days to install the transom and finish the foam.

And here are the pictures of the nonexpert foam worker:

Between frame B and C I installed a 6 mm extra frame to create some storage space in front of frame C and to make a border against the foam across the mid section.
For all of You who dont know where frame C is : It is not there yet because if I go exactly according to the building notes B and C must be installed after the floor is finished. Makes sense as both this 2 top frames rest on the floor:

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Fri Jun 05, 2015 9:47 am**

Well... messy stuff this foam, but at least you can clean it and it is not as hard to do like when you spill epoxy.
I'm very glad to see my neighbour advancing with the project so fast

Wish you moderate temperatures.
Cheers,
Dario

Posted: **Mon Jun 15, 2015 12:36 am**

It sounds like it is hot over there In Vancouver we never get that hot if it gets to 20 we scream abought it being to hot. your boat is looking real good it should not sink with all the foam in it I think I installed frame 3 before I got that far along I was never good a following the plans but it worked out well despite doing it wrong. Putting the hatches in the seat to hold the gas tank was no big deal once I had the seats built I cut out the hatch and built the box inside the hole I did not try to make the hatches water tight it was easy to seal the box with glass through the hole it is self draining through a hole in the stern once completed then I mounted the hatches in place it only took a day or so to do but it gets rid of the gas tank and no fumes can get into the boat.

Posted: **Wed Aug 05, 2015 1:32 am**

Hi Karl, how are you going on you boat?

Regards Salvatore.

http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCK7N0Z3MuI9Awisupeh_7dw

Posted: **Wed Aug 05, 2015 4:58 am**

Hi Salvatore,

Yes I was a bit lazy lately, but between gardenwork, taxiing my wife around, teaching my grandson to drive ( needs 3000 km) before he can make the test on his 17th birthday, painting the plywood top of my garden table with boat paint and the general heat here above 30 degrees celsius I got a little bit done:

I bought myself a trailer ( shop exhibition model therefore cheaper ) for 850 euros with a net loadweight of 450 kg and a total
weight of then 600 kg. I was sick and tired to lift my ( much to heavily built ) rowing boat onto the roof carrier of the car.
It took me half and hour to get it up and down and then I was bushed enough to only row for half an hour.
And when I have finished my ADELIE it will serve as its trailer as well.

Here is a picture of it:

and here are 2 pictures of my boat:

Today my pensum is the 4 glass tapes of frame C and the longitudinal frames before I am really finished with C

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Wed Aug 12, 2015 1:55 pm**

Hi,

A little bit of progress. I dry fitted the seats with the seat top being okoume and the round parts is birch plywood.
I got delivered one okoume panel short of the required number of panels.
I hope that if I encapsulate the round parts of the seats heavily with epoxy on the inside bunk and on deck before painting that I should not have a problem ever water to get in there.

Please let me know if anyone of you has a different opinion.

I wait with the birch plywood installation before I have heard of you.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Thu Aug 13, 2015 9:55 am**

Re: AD 14 KIELGE

Postby gonandkarl » Wed Aug 12, 2015 7:55 pm
Hi,

A little bit of progress. I dry fitted the seats with the seat top being okoume and the round parts is birch plywood.
I got delivered one okoume panel short of the required number of panels.
I hope that if I encapsulate the round parts of the seats heavily with epoxy on the inside bunk and on deck before painting that I should not have a problem ever water to get in there.

I wait with the birch plywood installation before I have heard some opinions of you.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Thu Aug 13, 2015 10:11 am**

Think the birch will be fine, well sealed with epoxy and glassed. Dang, that's a lot of wood strips!

Posted: **Thu Aug 13, 2015 12:15 pm**

Hi Larry,

Thanks for the quick answer about the birch. The shop where I bought the birch plywood offered to cut it for me in exactly 1.5 cm wide strips in their machine within a few minutes.
Your boat building forsight answered what would have been my next question if I should put a light glass mat over the top.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Thu Aug 13, 2015 1:15 pm**

I think I would put 12 oz. biax on that. It will get a lot of foot pressure with the boat heeling.

Posted: **Fri Aug 14, 2015 9:16 am**

Hi Larry,

Thanks a lot for the 12 ounce glass tip, You must have noticed that I wrote "light glass".
I will definitely use the heavy glass mat because my foot pressure is 118 kg.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Fri Aug 21, 2015 8:31 am**

Hi,

I finished painting the inside of the 2 bunks. Even that I follow the how to perfect paint discussions on the forum carefully I decided to be a bit lazy on the 2 bunks. I put white tinted epoxy on the floor boards and the longitudinal stringer which is the side of the bunk and then after just a little bit of sanding with 120 grit on my rotary sander I put 2 coats of primary boat paint and 2 coats of finish boat paint on it.
The main thing was that I followed Georges advice to paint before the seat tops are mounted because then it would only be
possible to crawl into the bunks from the cabin.So far I have not tried this because I dont want to know if my fat body can get in there head first.

Here is the result I have to live with:

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Fri Aug 21, 2015 8:45 am**

That's nicer than the inside of lockers on most production boats. For my little rowboat, I just stopped after the tinted epoxy in the interior of the seats. I don't plan to visit there very often.

Posted: **Sat Aug 22, 2015 12:52 pm**

Karl,
you're going on really fast. Looking good.
Cheers my neighbor,
Dario

Posted: **Sat Aug 22, 2015 3:17 pm**

Hallo Dario,
Thank you for the nice comment. I want to see again some more pictures of your boat. In the meantime I look at the beautiful picture of your signature looking out into the Adria.
You wrote that you are sanding a lot.
Is that sanding for the final touches ?
Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Mon Aug 24, 2015 1:38 pm**

No, Karl not for final touches. I'm laminating inside of the hull. There are 4 layers and a lot of sanding inbetween. 4x40m2=160m2 of fg and 60-70kg of epoxy. I want to put the stringers inside and get the inboard engine this autumn. Not time for updating the forum thread, this job is waiting the November rain.
Wish you a lot of Vergnügung in your bild,
Dario

Posted: **Sun Aug 30, 2015 3:19 pm**

Hi,

As a family man I always wanted to name my boat after my 3 childrens first names ( of each 2 letters )

KIRSTEN ELKE GERHARD and thats why I came up with KIELGE.

Nobody in the family likes this name including my 3 kids.

And while we had a nice barbeque today my granddaughter came up with a new name which it will definitely be:

Wilde Qualle ( in English: Wild jellyfish ) she got it from a picture book of pirates and their sail boats name.

Here is a quick picture of it. I will carry on posting on the thread AD 14 KIELGE until splashing.

Wishing You all a nice Sunday whats left of it.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Sun Aug 30, 2015 4:09 pm**

Wild jellyfish

Are there any tame jellyfish?

Jellyfish is a good name

Posted: **Tue Sep 01, 2015 4:40 am**

Cool name.
Larry, wild jellyfish jumps like dolphin

Posted: **Sun Sep 13, 2015 12:50 am**

You are making good headway looks good keep up the good work the hard part is completed it comes together fast from this point on. The biggest problem is sliding the keel into place I had my sun in law help me and trying to line the pin hole up I had no option but to use my fingers to do it I am aleady missing one dew to a helicopter accident and was worried abought loosing a second but if you can find a safer way to line it up do so I tried smaller pines to start with but had to resort to the fingers It worked I hope I never need to do that again.
I did not get in the water this summer at all doctors told me to stay out of the sun next year will be different I hope. What colour are you going to use?

Posted: **Sun Sep 13, 2015 6:04 am**

Hi George,

Thanks for the advise about fitting the centreboard, but I am still far of that action. I think you once mentioned to put a thin steel rope thru the centreboard case and the centreboard and then push it up from underneath ( I will do it with a trucks hydraulic cylinder lifter) and when the steel rope is completely straight then it should be lined up correctly to be able to push the ss sleeve thru. This is how I plan to do it, but if the plan wont work I have also my strong 34 years old son inlaw and my own strong son also aged 34 to help me with this heavy chore.

To your question about the color, I am pretty sure to paint the boat white with the bottom dark blue similar like Salvatore made it in Australia. But I always admire your yellow boat which for me as a color blind is the only color I can see well. Maybe I follow you and paint it also yellow. There is still time to think it over till next spring.

About the yellow color I have a question to you : Your trailer is also yellow and did you paint this color over the steel its made
of ? I bought my trailer recently and it is galvanized steel which should keep it from rusting. Is it advisable to paint it to have even more protection against rust ?

Here are my newest pictures of my progress. I am not sure if I starved the fiberglass of epoxy by putting just a little bit more of epoxy on the seat tops than the weight of the glass. As I put peel ply over it I am happy enough with the outcome and I will finish the seats with epoxy/microballoons fairing before painting.

PS maybe epoxy starved ?

SB maybe epoxy starved ?

Here it looks OK I think it depends on how one takes the picture.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Thu Sep 17, 2015 2:24 pm**

Looking real good the seats came out well a bought the same as mine nice curve it is a lot of work but it looks good when finished. As for the paint I chose Yellow it shoes up well on the water I have had many other boaters make coments that they can spot me miles away on the lake and that is important as a lot of speed boat people do not see well and I am the smallest one on the lake.
When I put my keel into place I had the boat up on its side and slid the keel in that way you just need to bee real careful so no one gets heart you will have a lot of fun with it once finished.

Posted: **Wed Sep 23, 2015 2:38 pm**

Hi,

I have fitted the side decks and taped them to the sides and now I leave the roof lying on top with weights for a weeks holiday in Croatia.
I hope the roof will bend in this week to make a nice camber before I fiberglass it to frame A , B and C. Right now I put a couple of screws into the frames to hold it nicely there. ( The srews are only temporarily. )

From this angle the roof fits quite OK but I must have made a bit of a cutting mistake when I cut the side decks because I have on each side a 2,5 cm gap ( 1 inch ) where I will have to fit some plywood in.

Here the gap is clearly visible.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Sat Oct 10, 2015 12:16 pm**

Hi,

At last the hull is finished, I taped the roof to the side decks yesterday and today I took this 3 pictures.

I am building now for 2 years and again I hope that next year in summer it will be splashed. In my mind I have built the even smallest detail ten times over. I am confident that it will happen the same as I am confident that my 3. grandchild born 5 days ago and been operated on the heart yesterday will also make it.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Sun Oct 11, 2015 9:33 am**

I hope your grand child makes it through ok are thoughts are with you on this, The boat is coming fine just one thought it looks like you are going to put hatches in the floor of the cockpit I put one in mine and it is the only place water gets into my boat I might have used the wrong hatches but dirt sand etc tend to get into the sear and allow rain water to get in to the lower part of the boat so be care full on the hatches you use it is a real pain getting the water out of there.

Posted: **Sun Oct 11, 2015 10:19 am**

The boat looks great. Prayers and best hopes for your grandchild.

In my mind I have built the even smallest detail ten times over.

I do that too. 20 times even

Posted: **Sun Oct 11, 2015 11:05 am**

Best thoughts to your grandchild, Karl.
Boat is coming along beautifully.

Posted: **Mon Oct 12, 2015 2:48 am**

terrulian wrote:Best thoughts to your grandchild, Karl.
Boat is coming along beautifully.

I also say as above

Prey your little one will be well soon. love the work on the boat. Salvatore

Posted: **Mon Oct 12, 2015 7:51 am**

My dear neighbor, I wish all the best to the little one and the family. They'll enjoy the ride on your beautiful boat!
Dario

Posted: **Thu Nov 05, 2015 12:59 am**

G,day Karl,
How is your grandchild doing? I hope it is good news

Posted: **Thu Nov 05, 2015 1:50 pm**

Hallo Salvatore,
My new granddaughter has come out of hospital 5 days ago and she must be fed thru a pipe going to the stomach via the nose because she is still very weak and cannot suck very long. I am thinking positive even that she has lost some weight after the big heart surgery. I have seen her an hour ago and she looks fine and looked at me with big eyes when I told her that I am busy with the companionway framing on the sailing boat I am building for my 3 grandchildren. My daughter meant at last one that does not turn away when I start talking about the boat.
I will post some pictures of my progress soon.
Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Thu Nov 05, 2015 2:03 pm**

gonandkarl wrote: at last one that does not turn away when I start talking about the boat.
Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

That's funny! Great news about your granddaughter, little ones can heal so quickly.

Posted: **Thu Nov 05, 2015 2:15 pm**

Best wishes for her, Karl.

Posted: **Fri Nov 06, 2015 3:25 am**

Hi Hank and Tony,

Thanks for the wishes, I am sure it helps the little one when there are more than just family members who spend a thought about her whellbeing.

In the meantime I really spend all my time on the companionway. ( I did not just tell my granddaughter that )
I put a frame on the inside that the 3 drop boards can lie on the skew bulhead C. The 3 drop boards I made out of the piece of plywood which one has to cut out of frame C to make the opening for the companionway. On the outside of bulkhead C I glue also some frames with a 6 mm groove and then I glue 4 mm plywood boards onto the drop boards with a little overlap down onto the next board so that the rain cannot get into the slots between the drop boards. I would have liked to build it as nice like Salvatore but my woodworkings skills are not so good as his. I will show some pictures in the next few days when it will be finished.
I take too much time thinking and playing with the epoxy woodflour where I always wait 24 hours before I carry on.
From the cutout of the roof I also made the sliding hatch by glueing 2 cleats left and right so the hatch can slide on a low plywood frame. I will reinforce this still with glassfibre maybe 2 layers that one could step on it if necessary. Also here I will follow up with pictures.
And I hope to get the download email soon for the FS13 I ordered. I hardly ever buy clothes or any luxury things but a nice new boat plan to look at in the evening is a treat.

Greetings from Karl in cold and foggy Austria

Posted: **Sun Nov 08, 2015 7:14 pm**

I am glad to hear you grand child is recovering they are so much fun but they grow up so quickly we are holding a 17 th birth day party for mine in a few hours. I did something like you on the entry to my cabin I did it in two pieces so two boards that drop in then when the hatch is closed it latches to the top drop in board and the bottom board locks to the bace of the frame this keeps it all secure I can send you some pictures if you like

Posted: **Mon Nov 09, 2015 6:27 am**

Hallo George,

Best wishes to your grandsons 17th, my grandson Jan celebrated his 16th on October 11 th and is way taller than I am,
( Easy I am only 1.78 m) while my 2 granddaughters Lea and the new one Isa share the same birthday October 5th.

Yes George I would like to see pictures of your companionway hatch and the drop boards and please send them to my email adress. I think looking at all the pictures in the forum help me the most getting things more or less right. Even that I built a little rowing boat beforehand I still come across some problems building an AD14, like how much goo do I make for a certain area to be glued together. But I am getting better in guessing and the consistency I get mostly the way I want it. I am proud not to have to throw away any of it, but sometimes I have to make a small batch of goo when it was not enough.
The next thing I will do is to glue the mast step in front of frame A.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Mon Nov 09, 2015 8:49 am**

How come we don't get to see the pictures?

Posted: **Mon Nov 09, 2015 11:19 am**

Hi Tony,
My camera is really fast, but I am a painstakingly slow builder. The three drop boards I glued on 3 consecutive days because I ran after each finished board from my cellar workshop to the boatshed to see if it fits. I also sit to much at my PC reading in the Bateau forum and checking my emails for the ordered FS13 plans. The idea is to finish my AD14 and FS13 at the same time for a common splashing and have someone take pictures from the single seater.
Tommorow will be the day of my companionway and sliding hatch pictures and then I will proudly present them here.
Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Tue Nov 10, 2015 10:31 am**

Hi,

Today I finally fitted the drop boards and the sliding hatch.
I made both according to the AD15 plans with a little slot on each side of the drop boards where rainwater can flow into the cockpit.

I have to use 2 footstools to get into the boat as long I have not mounted the sole, because it is a big step to get into the cabin.

Unfortunately I cut the door and the drop boards a bit skew and therefore also the framing around it is 10 mm too far right

But it should sail and not win a beauty competition. If I look at the companionway from the starboard distance the mistake is hardly noticable.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Tue Nov 10, 2015 10:35 am**

It's a not mistake. It is cut with angle to let water drain sideways instead of sitting on the batten that will cover the seam.

Posted: **Tue Nov 10, 2015 3:39 pm**

Hi Jacques,
Thank You for this advice, I feel much better now not having made a big mistake but rather achieved something positiv for a big down pour. Not that I will go sailing when the weather forecast is bad, but anybody noticing the skew drop boards will hear then from me your expert explanation. I really thought I measured horribly wrong when I mounted the frames around the companionway and it upset me even more when I saw it again on the pictures I took today of the boat. So much that I quit working on the boat for the rest of the day and rather studied the FS13 plan.
Now I am looking forward again for tommorrows fiberglassing of the sliding hatch.
Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Sat Nov 14, 2015 3:40 am**

Hi Karl do not let the off set on the hatch get to you just mount your compass sounder screen and any thing else you want on that left hand side and it will look like you did it on purpous to fit all of these things. The second approach is the one I use if they do not like it go away it will work just fine. I brought my hatch back far enough so that seals over top of the entrance hatch boards it helps keep the cabin dry I left abought a 1 inch overhang

Posted: **Sat Nov 14, 2015 1:16 pm**

Hi Karl,

You can try the following, its an old builders trick, we all make mistakes it is how we deal with them that matters. remove the front strips and get some wider timber then place the piece on the left just a little further to the left and the right piece just a little to the left so that it looks OK to the eye and it all works well and does not look funny test to position with clamps while you do it forget your ruler and just use your eyes you won't regret it . In the construction world we have to do this sort of thing every now and then, Image below. Regard Salvatore

http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCK7N0Z3MuI9Awisupeh_7dw

Posted: **Sat Nov 14, 2015 4:02 pm**

Genius, Salvatore.

Posted: **Sat Nov 14, 2015 4:37 pm**

forget your ruler and just use your eyes you won't regret it

Wise words of boat building there. I build by eye more than measuring devices.

Posted: **Sat Nov 14, 2015 5:35 pm**

Hi,
Thank you for the good advise George to mount things on the left side, I will do that because it is much less work than Salvatores idea with the 2 boards. I must say though it is really geniuous like Tony also commented. I know now how Salvatore built his boat in a record time because any problem I have to think over for hours he solves in minutes and also takes only minutes to implement it on the boat. How did you do the drawing on my photo ? I could also do that but again only very slow like print the photo draw the lines and scan it again into the computer a lengthy job. I am sure you did that also with a much better and quicker tool like paint.net or something even newer.
I am busy making also an overhang at the hatch roof over the top drop board, but as much as I try I will always be bloody slow.
Even that little thing is taking me the second day. Yesterday I fitted a small piece of plywood which rests exactly on the top drop board and todays work was to fit one in front to and then I glued the 2 sole hatches together. I want to fit the 2 hatches with flush latches to lock and I mount them in the sole while I still got it in my workshop. I could not imagine doing that in 56 cm width and kneeling down to a sole glued to the boat. I take much to long preparing everything before I start with the epoxy. As usual I did not know how much glue I will need to stick the 2 sole hatches lids ( 40 x 44 cm onto a 52 x 52 cm lid ) together so I weighed in 6 cups epoxy and hardener only to find out that the 3rd batch was over. Then I put yellow masking tape all around them to make sure I dont get epoxy where I dont want it. Next was my primitive solution to align the 40 x 44 cm Boards in the correct position on the 52 x 52 cm boards. I clamped them together and drilled 4 little holes thru both boards and stuck 4 nails from underneath up so that after I spread the epoxy gue I could drop the not square board down to its right position.
And all that took me half of the morning and 3 hours in the afternoon but I enjoyed every minute knowing that I will
finish the baot even at such slow speed.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Sun Nov 15, 2015 12:09 am**

Keep up the good work you will get it completed you are now at the point it starts to go quickly just try and keep it simple it took me a year working 3-4 hours each night and weekends to get my hull completed then 3-4 mounts to finish and paint it. The biggest pain was when using power and epoxy to fair it all I used a belt sander a lot and I would come into the house covered with white dust. My good wife kind of put up with it. When I was building model aircraft a number of years ago I built up a 1/3 scale piper cub it is 8 feet long with a 12 foot wing span. I built that on the kitchen table it took me over a year to build. So for a year we ate on tv tables as the kitchen table was tied up with the plain. Our wives are the ones that put up with it somehow. In 37 years together she has put up with this kind of thing in 1974 she was flying with me in my Bell 206 jet ranger helicopter at night in the mountains of the Yukon Territory in northern Canada when the jet engine decided to quit we then proceeded to crash into 150 foot high trees. We booth survived but my back was broken in two places she put up with me in the house foe 6 mounts while I recovered from the operations on my back. So when I was building the boat at lest I was out of the house. The wives are the ones that should have their pictures taken with the finished boats.

Posted: **Sun Nov 15, 2015 3:31 am**

Hi George,
I have 2 rooms in my cellar to to use as workshop in Winter ( 20 degree Celsius ) and in the gardenshed is the boat, where I have now besides an old coal stove a new gasheater which I can run for 2-3 days to let epoxy cure at an even temperature of 18 degrees. It is funny that you say you used the kitchen table. Our kitchen is rather small therefore we have a big table in the diningroom which I had to aquire also for some time to sew the sail and now and then to lay out the plan and spread all sorts of drawings. As my dear wife sort of ignores boat building and cant understand that one can discuss a hatch opening at length she gently reminds me to clear the diningroom table when I acquire it for too long and she doesnt like eating on the lap in the lounge any longer and. I think she is very understanding about my boat building activities, but is not the least interested in sailing with the finished boat. I overheard her speaking to a friend that she is not looking forward to bob up and down on lake Attersee for the rest of her life. It will just be me together with grandchildren or the dog who is actually very shy of water.
But boat builders always think of new ways to expand their workshop floor area. As I want to build the FS13 parallel over Winter to have a common launch with AD14 next summer I am planning to use the huge space in the loft underneath our roof ( 6 x 5 m ) to splice the plywood pannels and then cut the 4 metre long parts, before I assemble the FS13 in spring in our single garage.
Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Thu Dec 10, 2015 6:56 am**

Hi,

Today I was a bit shocked, because when I stepped into the boat at the transom I fell boat and all a foot down towards the transom.
I decided to finish the transom completly with glassing fairing and painting so that I can mount the pintles for the rudder before glueing the sole into the boat. The bottom pintle is between the sole and the keel and can be reached only thru the hatch in the sole. I wanted to save myself of crawling down there with a mounted sole. Thats why I removed the support at the transom to be able to fair and paint it and the result is now unfortunately this following picture. When I fix the hole mess I will fix the supports in a hrizontal direction as well.

But I have a bit of progress to report on my hatches, which I have finished by now:

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Sat Dec 12, 2015 6:20 am**

Smilies test posting nothing else

Posted: **Tue Dec 15, 2015 1:25 pm**

Have you thought of how you are going to drain water out of those hatch rails mounted on the deck? I did my hatch a bit different by putting a strip of SS on top of the back part of the hatch rails the hatch slides back and forth on those rails and when the hatch is pushed forward open I had a small problem with it rubbing on the deck so I installed a 4 inch wide strip of plastic mounted to the deck that it rides on. but it leaves the deck clear. I can send you pictures if you would like.

Posted: **Tue Dec 15, 2015 2:47 pm**

Hi George,

Yes please send me pictures. All ideas are very welcome, because I think I learn most about small detail problems when I see pictures of them and how others have solved them.
I will drain the deck at the forward end of the rails thru a hole on each side. But I have not made that yet. I will make this 2 holes before I start fairing the deck and maybe I can also use them with dowels to lock the hatch top in the foward position. Because till now I have not yet solved the problem that my well forward and back sliding hatch is nowhere attached to the rails it is just lying on them. I could imagine a strong wind blowing into the cabin thru open drop boards could lift it and throw it over board. Thats why I am toying with the idea of 2 holes on the sides in the complete forward and aft position of the top and rails accordingly. Or should I think of another way that the top doesn not fly away, wooden dowels seems to be a rather primitive solution.

Right now I have finished fairing and painting the transom while the boat is still hanging in straps while I repair the cradle with its supports at the stations A B C D and T. I have changed it that I attach the supports on the bottom rectangle with machine srews and nuts and washers so I can take them away any time and later when I put the boat on its side it can then rest with other supports on the bottom rectangular part . I am making this so elaborate because I want to use it further on to rest the boat on it in the garden over winter or should I use the trailer for the rowing boat.
Tommorow I will post pictures again of my progress.
Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Tue Dec 15, 2015 3:35 pm**

Karl,
You definitely want to secure that hatch. I don't think I like the idea of pegs but I suppose it would work. When the wind pipes up a little you'll want to slide the hatch back so spray coming over the deck won't enter the cabin. I think you'll find it nice to be able to just slide it to any position you want.

Here's a possible solution, based on what you have now: Take a router and notch out a 1/4" rabbet on the inside bottom of the rails on the sliding hatch, next to the frame of the opening. Then trim these side rails on the sliding part so they are a bit narrower, say 1/2". Now the hatch will be very sloppy of course...but what you do in that space is go to a plastic supplier and buy yourself a strip of plastic of some variety that is slippery. Install 1/4" x 1/4" pieces of this along the outside tops of the frame, either with glue or with countersunk screws or both. This will now fit into the rabbet you've created in the sliding hatch. Next step is to take a piece of wood the same as your sliding hatch frame and with either a router or table saw, create another rabbet so you have an L-shaped piece that will be attached flush to the outside of the sliding hatch, and then fit inboard to underneath the plastic part you've installed. Glue this up and fair it out and you'll have a hatch that won't come off in any weather.

To really keep it dry below, however, you need a shield on the forward outside of this whole arrangement, that does not slide. You can construct this out of 3/8" plywood, just a shallow box that is open in the back. You want it strong enough to stand or even jump on (this should be true of the sliding part as well). I presume something like this is in the plans but in any case, without it, spray will enter the cabin through the forward, open end of the hatch.

Posted: **Tue Dec 15, 2015 4:47 pm**

Posted: **Wed Dec 16, 2015 7:51 am**

Hi Tony,
Thank you very much for this detailed explanation how I can make it. That is exactly how I will finish it. First I read and did not quite understand it but with the pictures you drew it is now perfectly clear.
Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Wed Dec 16, 2015 8:41 am**

There's another design I've seen that involves screwing an aluminum flat bar to the bottom edge of the sliding hatch, and providing a rabbet for it to travel in. It's simple and weather tight, use a stop block to limit travel as desired.

Posted: **Wed Dec 16, 2015 9:31 am**

That's good, too, but if Karl chooses it I would suggest thickening the fixed hatch frame, as that dado will weaken it.
Whatever you do, Karl, you really want to prevent the possibility that the hatch may get loose.

Posted: **Thu Dec 17, 2015 11:27 am**

Hi Hank,
Thank you for your nice and easy solution. I think I will make a combination of Tonys idea and yours. I will not make a rabbet into the frame that I wont weaken it and therefore I glue plastic to it, but I like your aluminium flat bar instead of an additional L shaped wood on the sliding part which will reach underneath the 1/4 " plastic and prevent the hatch from getting lost.
Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Thu Dec 17, 2015 11:34 pm**

Hi Karl
I will take some pictures of how I installed my hatch it is simple and works well. I have never worked out how to post pictures on the site but I can email them to you. send me a quick email with your address I will get them away to you my email is
George@mkysecurity.com

Posted: **Wed Dec 23, 2015 6:46 am**

Hi,

After just over 2 years of building my boat I have the following status report:

My cradle base is repaired and the cross beams are made stronger with metal connectors.
The boat is back on the cradle and the sole with its 2 painted hatches, the painted dropboards and sliding hatch is testwise in position. I made the following pictures to document my build:

Next I will glue the sole into the boat but this will happen after Christmas.

I wish you all a very nice and peaceful festive season.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Wed Dec 23, 2015 8:33 am**

Karl,
Love the update and photos.
I notice there are no cockpit coamings, that that seats extend all the way to the topsides. The pictures of other AD 14s show them. Are you planning to add them later?

Best wishes to you and all the other builders and their families for the holidays.

Posted: **Wed Dec 23, 2015 10:11 am**

Hi Tony,
On the AD14 plan there is no coaming but on all AD16 built there is. I will have only 2 straps to lean against which will be attached to the pushpits and the side of cabin. Should I nevertheless fall once too often over the side into the water I can add coamings at a later stage. I once put the coamings question to Jacques and he meant the straps are very comfortable and in the case of capsize the righting is better with the straps. As it is less work I will just have the straps at the splashing.
Greetings and Merry Christmas to You and Your wife Theresa
Karl

Posted: **Wed Dec 23, 2015 10:21 am**

No need for a coaming. many boats in that size are built without a coaming.
The straps are very safe and sitting on deck (the deck is the seat top), the coaming will be uncomfortable, it will push against your back while the straps will conform to your back.
If you make the coaming at the correct angle, it makes the seat top too narrow to my taste.
There is no reason to fall through the straps

Use 3 straps if you want.

That being said, those who have added a cooaming by extending the cabin sides seem to be happy with it.
It's your boat, you decide,

Posted: **Sat Dec 26, 2015 11:45 pm**

The main reason I put the coaming on my boat is our wind is cold up here and on other boats I have been on I found the cold wind got to my lower back got cold that is why I put them on. The second reason is with ought them the cans of beer or pop fishing gear etc would tend to fall over the side. I find they are a fright place to keep all the little things tucked away but close at hand if I need them it works for me. But every one adds their own touch to these boats.

Posted: **Sun Dec 27, 2015 9:55 am**

Greetings and Merry Christmas to You and Your wife Theresa

To you and yours as well, Karl, and to all the knuckleheads on this forum.

Posted: **Sat Jan 09, 2016 7:39 am**

Hi,
At last the windows are cut out and I am busy with the frames which I produce in my warm cellar workshop.

Greetings from Karl

Posted: **Sun Jan 10, 2016 10:02 am**

Did you get the drawing I sent you on the rigging ?

Posted: **Sun Jan 10, 2016 2:38 pm**

terrulian wrote: I notice there are no cockpit coamings, that that seats extend all the way to the topsides. The pictures of other AD 14s show them. Are you planning to add them later?.

G,day all
There is no coamings on either the AD14 or AD16. Individual boat builders have added the coamings to their boats, I have only sean one unfinished AD16 without backrest, It is called Karenina you can see pictures of it on this site. The coaming on My boat "Angelina" is more than an add-on It is part of the boat in that I lowered the height of the benches to suit my needs, this also helped me to keep the height of the coaming down as I did not want to increase wind-age on the boat.

A taller person can make better use of no coamings as He/She can lean out and improve speed performance in a stiff breeze even more so on the AD14
Regards Salvatore

Posted: **Sun Jan 10, 2016 4:28 pm**

Hi George,
Thank You very much for the drawing You sent me of the rigging. I did get them but because of the Christmas and New Year holidays I was quite busy with the family rushing from one place to the other always eating and drinking too much and that is how I forgot to answer.
Greetings from a rather warm Austria
Karl

Posted: **Wed Feb 03, 2016 11:31 am**

Hi,

A little bit of progress:

One more coat of paint for the under sole compartments and then I can glue the floor at last into the boat.

And the window frames are mounted for a test and are now also ready for painting :

Greetings from Karl

Posted: **Wed Feb 03, 2016 4:56 pm**

Great progress, Karl, keep those pictures coming.

Posted: **Thu Feb 04, 2016 12:53 am**

When I put the windows on my boat I put the nuts on the inside of the boat to keep the outside smooth so that the running lines did not get hung up on them

Posted: **Thu Feb 04, 2016 4:23 am**

Hallo George,
This is a good remark about the nuts. I thought I saw it on Salvatores boat like I did it. I just thought the capped nuts look better on the outside, but I was also in doubt if it is right like this. I am using #10 ss machine screws and if I put the nuts inside I could cap the outside with white plastic caps which one can get for such screw heads and it would be all white like the rest of the boat. I have the same problem with the 3 rudder pintles should I have the 4 nuts outside or inside ? The additional problem there is that I can only find screws 3 or 4 cm long of which the 3cm is nearly too short and the 4 cm long ones are too long so that I have to use some washers because the thread in this shining cap nuts is only 5 mm long. Length problem solved with open nuts on the inside.
Problems ever since I started building the boat and the hardest thing is to sit in front of the boat thinking am I right or wrong if I decide it one way or the other. My wifes advice to me is to get away from my bit thinking ( on/off right/wrong) of my computer career and accept that boat building decisions can be in between.
Greetings from Karl

Posted: **Mon Feb 08, 2016 1:15 am**

The rudder mount would look a lot better with the nuts on the inside you can always cut off the excess bolt if the threads do not go down far enough take them to a machine shop and have them run a die down them to extend the threads thay way you can make it look a lot smother. If you are going to cut the bolts shorter put a nut on the bolt before you cut it then after you cut it when you back the nut off it will clean off any damage to the treads at the same time

Posted: **Mon Feb 08, 2016 3:12 am**

Hallo George,
Thanks a lot for the idea about cutting the bolt shorter with the nut on. That is how I will do it. I should have known this already when I shortened the pivot bolt for the centre board. There I battled with an electric file to get the thread right again to get the nut on.
Greetings from Karl

Posted: **Mon Feb 08, 2016 9:38 am**

I would do it with a die, as stainless easily galls. If you don't have a die, then the nut is worth a try...it's a cheap experiment.

Posted: **Mon Feb 08, 2016 3:57 pm**

One problem I have had with my boat and the rudder on my boat if I have the rudder all the way down when I launch it the rudder pops off. So I launch it with the rudder only using the top two brackets then I need to re set it into all three once it is in the water I found it hard to get all 3 lined up at the same time hanging over the stern. The way to solve this is to cut the pins at different lengths so that you get one and two into place then three will line up properly trying to fet all three at the same time was just to hard to do.

Posted: **Tue Feb 09, 2016 3:11 am**

Hi George,
Before I put the sole in I tried again the rudder and the pintles and in the building shed it is easy to line up the three pintles.
I have Valdana pintles from Italy which are made of steel and they have a hard plastic insert with holes. I hope this helps lining up easier. But If I should encounter the really rough lake Attersee and have the mentioned problem I will remember your idea of shortening the bottom pin. Thanks a lot and
Greetings from Karl

Posted: **Tue Feb 09, 2016 10:22 am**

To line up the pintles and easily install the rudder while in the water, there is a trick: offset the pintles so that they do not engage all at once.
Put the first gudgeons a little bit higher than the second one and the second one a little bit higher than the next one (if using 3).
That way, the rudder first engage in the top one, push it down and it grabs the 2nd one and then the 3rd. That way you engage them one at a time, not need to struggle with all 3 at the same time.
I wonder if I don't mention that in the building notes? I know that I mention a Ronstan spring to keep it in place.

Posted: **Wed Feb 10, 2016 11:56 am**

Hi,
After everbody on this forum tells to use ziplock plastic bags to get the epoxy glue into corners, I thought I was very clever and bought myself a nice grease gun which one can disassemble very easy and I thought thats the thing to use with the epoxy glue in corners like on the cleats for my sole.

It can take 400 ml which was fine for half of the cleats for the sole and the first use then I had to stir some more glue and after filling it into the gun it did not want to come out of the nozzle anymore. In my panic I decided to cut the plastic nozzle a bit higher in the hope that it will come out of a bigger hole. And it did because suddenly all the inside pressure had a release and with the knife still in the hand I did not point the nozzle at the sole cleats and had the glue everywhere just not where I wanted it to be.

Here the nicely painted bottom

and after the finally glued in sole it looked like that

So I have learned to use a ziplock plastic bag in future as the cleaning of the grease gun took twice as long as its use with epoxy glue.

To compensate for this mishap I bought myself today a Minnkota C2 34 pounds thrust electric motor which was on sale.

Even that it said one should not operate it outside the water my temptation was too big to see if it works so I mounted it on this rocking chair and switched it on shortly on all 5 forward and reverse gears. It works fine because I did not feel the need for a friends advise to fill a big plastic dust bin with water and clamp the motor to it for testing.

The only problem I made myself with buying just this model with a 91 cm ( 36" ) shaft length is that it wont fit under the sole compartments together with the porta potti. Porta potti will have to be in the cabin while the motor is there for transporting it.
I can clamp this electric motor directly to the transom and save myself a permanently installed motor clamping board which is used to lower motors with a shorter shaft length.
I hope I will be able to use it also on my FS13 with a tiller extension.

But now I have to work again on my sole. I still have to make the fillets and tape all around against the benches, transom and frame C and then paint once more over the messed up bottom.

Greetings from Karl

Posted: **Wed Feb 10, 2016 12:00 pm**

gonandkarl wrote: To compensate for this mishap I bought myself today a Minnkota C2 34 pounds thrust electric motor which was on sale.

Greetings from Karl

Posted: **Wed Feb 10, 2016 7:01 pm**

gonandkarl wrote:Hi,
After everbody on this forum tells to use ziplock plastic bags to get the epoxy glue into corners, I thought I was very clever and bought myself a nice grease gun which one can disassemble very easy and I thought thats the thing to use with the epoxy glue in corners like on the cleats for my sole.

So I have learned to use a ziplock plastic bag in future as the cleaning of the grease gun took twice as long as its use with epoxy glue.

I like the ziploc bags too, but you could load epoxy in an empty caulk tube and throw it away when done . . . they can be bought empty, I think.

Posted: **Thu Feb 11, 2016 10:58 am**

empty caulk tube

My experience - by the time you fill tube, load in gun and use it and then throw away $6.50 tube you might as well use the System Three Gelmagic Cartridge (see link)

http://boatbuildercentral.com/proddetai ... _cartridge

empty tube:
http://www.amazon.com/CRL-Plastic-Seala ... caulk+tube

Posted: **Thu Feb 11, 2016 1:06 pm**

I used bog to do all the seams on my boat I found if I used the back of and old spoon to get a nice curve on the seam makes it water tight and smooth at the same time it makes it stronger and leave no way for water to get into the seam. I used up a few spoons but they are cheep

Posted: **Fri Feb 12, 2016 2:00 pm**

Hi George,
I had to make the seems between the benches and the sides today and I did it with a baby spoon with an extra long handle.
Like you said a spoon works perfect and at last I got good looking seams.
Thank You for this really excellent tip.
Greetings from Karl

Posted: **Sun Feb 14, 2016 3:29 pm**

No problem my friend I am glad it worked for you keep up the good work you will be in the water in the spring

Posted: **Tue Feb 16, 2016 5:03 pm**

Posted: **Tue Feb 16, 2016 5:17 pm**

Posted: **Tue Feb 16, 2016 5:20 pm**

Hi,

The last 4 wooden parts must be installed now:

Mast shoe, partner and the 2 chain plate supports of which I hope to get shoe and chain plates done today on a very rainy day in Austria:

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Sun Feb 21, 2016 5:03 am**

Hi,

The last 4 wooden parts must be installed now:

Mast shoe, partner and the 2 chain plate supports of which I hope to get shoe and chain plates done today on a very rainy day in Austria:

God only knows why I posted this twice.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Sun Mar 27, 2016 9:01 am**

Hi,

While I am stilll waiting for warmer weather and working on the FS13 in the garage in the meantime to be able to flip both boats at the same time for fiber glassing their bottoms, I took these nice pictures of the neighbor kids playing around my boat:

Greetings from karl ( Austria )

Posted: **Sun Mar 27, 2016 9:33 am**

Great stuff Karl. I didn't get that you were building two boats at once!!
When you finish, take those kids sailing on a windy day and replace their sweet smiles with terror and delight.

Posted: **Thu Mar 31, 2016 1:05 am**

Looking real good you should get in the water this summer

Posted: **Wed Apr 27, 2016 11:37 am**

Hi,
As I am about to start fairing the deck of my boat, I practise it hard on my a bit smaller FS13 before I dare to do it on my AD14.
I have test fitted the bow eye and I think the 10 mm inside ply wood backing plate glassed with 2 tapes to the sides should be strong enough for a 300 k boat.

Greetings from Karl

Posted: **Tue May 03, 2016 7:47 pm**

I used a belt sander on my boat and just used finer belts each time I would put a coat of filler on then I finished it off using an orbital sander it came out good or at least I was happy with it. Your bow hold bow point looks good mine is dun the same way and has worked well for years. The sanding is the hard part to do and takes a lot of time but it is worth it when finished. Keep up the good work.

Posted: **Wed May 04, 2016 1:40 am**

Hallo George,
I have really practised sanding on my parallel build the FS13 and found out that I cannot use my belt sander because I cannot adjust the speed and it takes to much off at once. But I have built myself 2 fairing boards after the instructions I got for my question " How do I build a fairing board ? " This fairing boards work fine and also I am using the rotary sander and I found out sanding by hand and with the sanding paper around a cork block works best in corners. I have bought three 20 metre rolls of sanding paper 80 120 and 180 grid and they really work well even that I will use the 180 only at the painting stage. You are definitely right that sanding takes the longest and I catch myself sanding over a part where I was already finished but found out it must still be a bit smoother. It is also the part of boat building where the progress is not very visible for a long time and one gets worried if one ever will get to an end of it. But encouraging postings like yours help me a great deal to get the 2 boats into the water by the end of July.
Greetings from Karl

Posted: **Wed May 04, 2016 6:32 pm**

Your stem is flat!! That's cheating.

Mine had a radius so that's what made it hard to find the center when drilling from inside.

Sanding and fairing my boat somehow changed me a little I think. I did it for endless hours but now I have confidence I can make something look good eventually if I try and I'm kind of fond of that process. A pro could do it in 1/10 of the time, of course.

Posted: **Thu May 05, 2016 11:24 am**

Hi Tony,
I am not sure if I will ever get fond of the sanding process but like You I like the outcome of it looking really nice. I am busy sanding the 2 push pits in my cellar workshop because outside it is still to cold to work with epoxy mixed fairing paste. I started fairing on them because I thought one can easily correct a mistake. My mistake with them was, thinking if I use fairing paste on them and rolling peel ply over it would fasten the process. It came out ok but I wont do it anymore. I still have to sand by hand a lot on them.
My house has 14 windows of which I replaced 10 myself including new frames. It took ages and decided to let a professional do the last 4 windows and the front and rear house doors as well. He did the lot in 6 hours.
On the boat(s) I would feel bad if I have not done all the work myself. It is the joy of having made a really nice looking boat which drives me on till splashing day in July and my armada JAN, WILDE QUALLE ( Crazy Jellyfish ) and ISA will be complete.
Greetings from Karl