New AD14 build

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waytootall
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Re: New AD14 build

Post by waytootall »

Working to finish the centerboard. I was a little scared of melting and pouring lead and my wife was more scared so I went with lead shot in epoxy. This is the setup and my older daughter helping.

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I thought I had the bottom of the CB sealed up to hold the shot and epoxy, but I was wrong and the epoxy leaked all over the place and really messed up the backside of the CB.

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So I spent the next day with an angle grinder removing all the excess epoxy and he runaway shot. For anyone else doing this I would recommend a base layer of thickened epoxy to prevent leaking before pouring in the shot and the unthickened epoxy on top of that.

waytootall
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Re: New AD14 build

Post by waytootall »

Today I cut and dry-fit the berth/sole.
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I had to notch the berth sections to fit through Frame D. This isn't mentioned anywhere in the notes but it seemed necessary.

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There is a good bit of a gap around the forward portion of the berth/sole between it an the sides of the hull. All the measurements are correct and the frame measurements were correct so I don't know why there are gaps. I guess I will just have to work to fill the gaps. Did anyone else experience this?

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Are there supposed to be cleats/battens on the hull sides to support the berth/sole? I don't see them mentioned or on any diagram but it would seem to make sense.

gonandkarl
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Re: New AD14 build

Post by gonandkarl »

Hi,
There are only cleats on the frames and longitudinal stringers to support the sole. I also experienced some gaps next to the sole, but as I poured foam between the frames underneath the floor I just had to fill the remaining gaps with epoxy goo and made it round and put the fibreglass tape on it which holds the sole to the sides.
You are moving very fast with your build. Have you planned the splashing for this summer ?
Greetings from Karl ( Austria )
All pictures of Micro Petrel AD14 and FS13 :

http://gallery.bateau2.com/index.php?cat=87433

jacquesmm
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Re: New AD14 build

Post by jacquesmm »

This happens sometimes when the hull panels flare out too much and the basket mold is too wide.
Or you build without the basket mold and nothing keeps the top of the panels from flaring out.
In that case, without the mold, one way to prevent it is to pull the sides against the frames when assembling the hull but few builders do it.
We can not guarantee how every sheet of plywood will bend exactly, some take their shape as expected, other flare out while sitting there, with temperature and moisture changes. It is always safer to cut sole and deck panels after assembly and check if the dimensions match.
This also applies to the deck.
It should go together perfectly, without a gap but a small difference may appear at the sheer level, get larger at the lower side of the cabin, the larger at the deck edge. 1/8" difference each time may become 1/2" at the top.
It is not a big problem. The glass tape will cover all that.
For the sole, as Karl writes, if you foam the compartments, you can fill the gap over the foam.
One easy way to reduce the gap along the edge of the sole is to glue cleats along the side. Where the gap is wide, you can even use a second layer of cleats.
I will add a warning line to the building notes because I realize that several builders have assembled the boat without the basket mold: add some cleats along the hull if you don't fill with foam.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com

jacquesmm
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Re: New AD14 build

Post by jacquesmm »

Thinking about that: I will write notes about an alternate assembly method, without the basket mold.
All dimensions will stay the same but there are some precautions to take when putting the hull together.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com

Salvatore
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Re: New AD14 build

Post by Salvatore »

waytootall wrote:There is a good bit of a gap around the forward portion of the berth/sole between it an the sides of the hull. All the measurements are correct and the frame measurements were correct so I don't know why there are gaps. I guess I will just have to work to fill the gaps. Did anyone else experience this?
G,day, It would be a good habit to measure what is actually needed and compare it to the size on the plan before cutting your plywood. I also made-up the frames so that I could get the shape of the hull closer to plan by using the frames as a guide. I also used lengths of timber to force the hull to match the shape of my frames, it does not matter if you put holes in the side of the hull as you will be glassing it on both sides (inside and outside). Use lots of support braces. Living materials ( wood, leather, etc ) are not like dead materials (steel, mortar, etc) and the outcome of once living materials can vary
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Below: picture of my boat with some bracing.
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You are doing really well and your boat is starting to look good, you are at a stage where what you are doing is very important, take the time to get all your sizes correct. Some boat builders use old or cheap pieces of ply, Masonite,cardboard,craft-wood any kind of scrap materials and make-up templates first. I used this technique in areas of my build that I was not confidant about. Take the time to look at pictures on this website, I spent hours just looking at pictures to see how other boats are being built, go to my youtube page there are some other AD16s in the build process. http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCK7N0Z3MuI9Awisupeh_7dw Regards Salvatore

waytootall
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Re: New AD14 build

Post by waytootall »

Thank you all for the replies. I had actually done most of the things suggested except cutting test pieces with cheep wood. I have to force myself to slow down and be patient, I am not good at that. I will focus on more careful measuring. I had a couple weeks off from work so I got a lot done but it will slow down a good bit. I have no illusions of splashing this summer.

waytootall
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Re: New AD14 build

Post by waytootall »

In planning ahead for cutting the proper access hatches in the sole, I have a couple of questions:

1. Can someone clarify of explain what they did in the placement of the ballast that isn't in the center board? The notes say "in front of frame B". I would think that the weight would be best nearest the keel but just in front of B at the keel is where the centerboard pin is so I don't want to block access the that. I do plan on putting foam in the outer compartment in front of B so I don't want to put the ballast there. I want to plan this now so the access hatch can get at the CB pin and the ballast I believe.

2. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to do the access hatch? gonandkarl did nice looking hatches as he shows in this picture

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Did you put cleats underneath the sole to support the cover? Did you cut the covers from a separate piece of plywood or were you that good to make the piece you actually cut out of the sole look that good? Or should I just go with a round twist out cover like this:

https://www.google.com/shopping/product ... QieAygAMBA

but there in't much room between the CB trunk and the stringers to fit a round cover and still have the recommended 3 inch clearance.

das boot
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Re: New AD14 build

Post by das boot »

I pored my ballest led into a series small bricks and set them in around the keel I did not fix them into place at that point and that was a good thing. After I sailed the boat for a few trips I realised I needed to move 40-50 pounds to the bow to make my boat sail properly and I was able to move the small bricks around to do that. After that was all worked out I just pored some foam over them to hold them in place

das boot
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Re: New AD14 build

Post by das boot »

The hatch is not hard I built up the sides of the hatch opening on each side with 1-4 and topped it off with 2 pieces of stainless steal they protrude out the outside by 1/2 inch that is the track the hatch slides on then when I built the hatch itself there is a lip that goes under that stainless slider when it was all dun I slid it into place and capped over the end so there is no way it is coming off. The opening from the cockpit I cut groves into a good piece of hard wood on each side something like a H when looking from the top cut and glue them into place then I have two drop in pieces that drop into place when it is closed up and locked it is secure and dry

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