Hi,
Beautiful work you are doing. The trailer you show us is practically the same one I got but I paid 800 Euros. I would go for it at the very reasonable price of 399 $. Please let us have lots of pictures when you put the boat into the water.
Greetings from Karl
New AD14 build
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Re: New AD14 build
I got my sail! It isn't exactly the what is in the plans but it is a simple (inexpensive) start. I had to remove the slugs since they didn't fit the mast track but the bolt rope fits. I need to add a good bit of rigging but I will just do some simple things to try it out and figure out what I really need. I would love pictures of how others did the rigging on their boats for ideas. I also added the trailer hitch to my van and the trailer is ordered so I am on track to be in the water within a few weeks.
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Re: New AD14 build
Another thing I am working on is the rub rail and trim. I am experimenting with using 1/8 inch think 4 inch wide rubber strip to wrap over the curved edge. This serves two purposes - to guard the corner to prevent dings and to cover up the spots where the finish is not as good since the fiberglass tape on the corners shows. This is the initial small area experiment. It worked pretty well so I will get the rubber to cover the entire length.
Re: New AD14 build
Will you need to take that around any bends, or will it just be used in straight sections?
Hank
Re: New AD14 build
Remember that a laminated rubrail is a stiffener, it adds strength.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
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Re: New AD14 build
I was planning to run the rubber strip along the entire length of the boat including the curved section along the deck/hull seam. I did not think of the strength aspect of the rubrail. How important is that?
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Re: New AD14 build
It depends on how hard you hit something. You should be OK if you use fenders, which you need to be doing anyway. A rub rail is well-named; it is not meant to prevent real damage from collisions, just to prevent marring of your boat or others when "rubbing" against something. I'm assuming you added the structural elements in the plans and this is not a substitute for that.
Tony
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Re: New AD14 build
Correct. I added all the internal structural elements. The rubber will work well for minor bumps. I also wasn't sure about bending a laminated strip to match the 3 dimensional curve of the hull/deck joint.
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Re: New AD14 build
Try heating it either with a heat gun or by soaking it in hot water. With a heat gun of course you have to stay away from the boat so you don't affect the paint.
If that doesn't work you'll have to cut out little slivers, which of course you will do with the precision of a brain surgeon.
Sorry, I just saw that you were talking about laminated strips so maybe the above is irrelevant.
If that doesn't work you'll have to cut out little slivers, which of course you will do with the precision of a brain surgeon.
Sorry, I just saw that you were talking about laminated strips so maybe the above is irrelevant.
Tony
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Re: New AD14 build
Laminated strips can still benefit from heat/steam.
I'll swear by screws though. Requires you to patch later but it does keep things tight and slows you to bend multiple planes.
1 mark spots on inside of hull where screws go.
2 drill out over sized hole
3 wax a pile of screws.
4 prep strip by applying slow or a mixed "medium" epoxy
5 starting at one end clamp the first 24" making sure not to clamp over a screw hole
6 put screws in the first 24". Apply from INSIDE hull through rub rail.
7 continue on down the hull; bend strip, clamp, screw, next hole
8 do other side.
9 go drink beers
10 once epoxy is set back screws off till no longer showing through strip and star with #1 above for the next layer.
11 once all strips applied, remove screws, over drill holes and fill with thickened epoxy.
12 use a flush trim bit to trim the upper side of rail.
13 use thickened epoxy to square up bottom side of rail.
That's basically what I did with some improved steps that will prevent the issues I had. Might work for you as well.
I'll swear by screws though. Requires you to patch later but it does keep things tight and slows you to bend multiple planes.
1 mark spots on inside of hull where screws go.
2 drill out over sized hole
3 wax a pile of screws.
4 prep strip by applying slow or a mixed "medium" epoxy
5 starting at one end clamp the first 24" making sure not to clamp over a screw hole
6 put screws in the first 24". Apply from INSIDE hull through rub rail.
7 continue on down the hull; bend strip, clamp, screw, next hole
8 do other side.
9 go drink beers
10 once epoxy is set back screws off till no longer showing through strip and star with #1 above for the next layer.
11 once all strips applied, remove screws, over drill holes and fill with thickened epoxy.
12 use a flush trim bit to trim the upper side of rail.
13 use thickened epoxy to square up bottom side of rail.
That's basically what I did with some improved steps that will prevent the issues I had. Might work for you as well.
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