MF14 - Minnesota
Re: MF14 - Minnesota
walkabout_slp, we will take a look at the plans and see if we can make any changes that will assist future builders. I will get back to you soon. Jeff
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Re: MF14 - Minnesota
Jeff,
I am not sure if I cut the bottom panels wrong or my forms were slightly larger than they should have been, but the bottom panels were definitely not the right shape in the last 12" by the bow. I did remeasure a few times so I think I got the panels the right dimensions. Cutting and re-adding pieces was not difficult, but did take time and made me wonder if I had done something wrong.
If I were to cut the bottom panels again I would have cut them oversize by an inch where I could. Obviously you cant do this mid panel otherwise you would not be able to get 2 bottom panels out of a 4/8 sheet of plywood, but can do this at the transom and the bow. I had no issues with the shape on the transom end. One could even temporarily screw the oversize bottom panels to the frames/etc and then trace the shape along the side panels and then cut the exact shape.
I used CA glue to "spot weld" the bottom panels to the side panels and then planed the bottom panels flush to the side panels where there was a slight overhang.
I am not sure if I cut the bottom panels wrong or my forms were slightly larger than they should have been, but the bottom panels were definitely not the right shape in the last 12" by the bow. I did remeasure a few times so I think I got the panels the right dimensions. Cutting and re-adding pieces was not difficult, but did take time and made me wonder if I had done something wrong.
If I were to cut the bottom panels again I would have cut them oversize by an inch where I could. Obviously you cant do this mid panel otherwise you would not be able to get 2 bottom panels out of a 4/8 sheet of plywood, but can do this at the transom and the bow. I had no issues with the shape on the transom end. One could even temporarily screw the oversize bottom panels to the frames/etc and then trace the shape along the side panels and then cut the exact shape.
I used CA glue to "spot weld" the bottom panels to the side panels and then planed the bottom panels flush to the side panels where there was a slight overhang.
Re: MF14 - Minnesota
Looks really good!
Re: MF14 - Minnesota
Your solution to the tip of the bow is fine.
You will have lots of fiberglass overlaps there and it will be very strong.
I"ll check the plans to make certain that we show the dimensions properly.
You will have lots of fiberglass overlaps there and it will be very strong.
I"ll check the plans to make certain that we show the dimensions properly.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
Re: MF14 - Minnesota
I checked and the dimensions are correct but, you may have overlooked something.
The tip of the boat is 1" wide, it is "square", not pointy.
1" wide means 1/2" each side as you wrote.
Could that be it?
Look closely at the drawing, I show it square in all plan views. If I made it sharp, it would quickly be damaged. A 1" wide tip will absorb shocks better.
BTW, the length of the panel should be 174-1/4" measured on the surface, from the corner of the transom to the corner of the tip of the bow.
I see a 6 to 8" patch in the picture.
The tip of the boat is 1" wide, it is "square", not pointy.
1" wide means 1/2" each side as you wrote.
Could that be it?
Look closely at the drawing, I show it square in all plan views. If I made it sharp, it would quickly be damaged. A 1" wide tip will absorb shocks better.
BTW, the length of the panel should be 174-1/4" measured on the surface, from the corner of the transom to the corner of the tip of the bow.
I see a 6 to 8" patch in the picture.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
Re: MF14 - Minnesota
I also checked the width and they match. I wish I had a picture of the gap.
Where was the gap? At frame A, the width should be 17-1/2 or 17-3/8 in plan view, at the top.
This bothers me, I can't find the problem, everything matches.
Anyway, you did a good job fixing it, the hull looks good.
Where was the gap? At frame A, the width should be 17-1/2 or 17-3/8 in plan view, at the top.
This bothers me, I can't find the problem, everything matches.
Anyway, you did a good job fixing it, the hull looks good.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
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Re: MF14 - Minnesota
Jacques,
I think you are correct. Thank you for clarifying.
I did not take into account that the tip should be square. I must have misunderstood the dimensions from the plans and did not see the 1/2" square end on the deck panels. Also must have not understood that 1 3/8"-7/8" = 1/2" square end on the bottom panels.
I did use 3" solid wood blocks on either side of end of the center form, so I can easily cut the bow back an inch or two to make it less susceptible to damage.
I think you are correct. Thank you for clarifying.
I did not take into account that the tip should be square. I must have misunderstood the dimensions from the plans and did not see the 1/2" square end on the deck panels. Also must have not understood that 1 3/8"-7/8" = 1/2" square end on the bottom panels.
I did use 3" solid wood blocks on either side of end of the center form, so I can easily cut the bow back an inch or two to make it less susceptible to damage.
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- Location: Minnesota
Re: MF14 - Minnesota
I flipped the boat over and removed the temporary deck.
Then cleaned up some of the framing fillets from before.
Then I progressed onto filling and taping the internal keel seam.
Then started on filleting and taping the frames to the bottom panels.
Next steps:
I filled the seam in the narrow gap between the daggerboard trunk frames, but did not put any fibreglass tape there. Was I meant too? Or will filleting/taping the outside of the daggerbord trunk be enough? If I should tape in this gap, is there any trick to this?
Also the last photo is of the blocking I used at the bow. I plan on cutting this back about an inch to correct the hull shape from being too pointy (my mistake).
Then cleaned up some of the framing fillets from before.
Then I progressed onto filling and taping the internal keel seam.
Then started on filleting and taping the frames to the bottom panels.
Next steps:
- Lots more filleting/taping.
I filled the seam in the narrow gap between the daggerboard trunk frames, but did not put any fibreglass tape there. Was I meant too? Or will filleting/taping the outside of the daggerbord trunk be enough? If I should tape in this gap, is there any trick to this?
Also the last photo is of the blocking I used at the bow. I plan on cutting this back about an inch to correct the hull shape from being too pointy (my mistake).
Last edited by walkabout_slp on Sun May 19, 2019 5:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: MF14 - Minnesota
Don't worry about cutting the tip.
I would tape all around the dagger board trunk, If I remember well that is what the plans specify. It will work without the tape but juts in case of a very brutal grounding with the dagger board down, I prefer the board to break than the trunk seams.
I would tape all around the dagger board trunk, If I remember well that is what the plans specify. It will work without the tape but juts in case of a very brutal grounding with the dagger board down, I prefer the board to break than the trunk seams.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
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