About 5 inches of the wooden mast is trimmed to fit inside the aluminum one. That was done by hand sanding and chiseling the shoulder. I could have done it while I had the lathe set up but I didn't know the inside diameter of the Sunfish mast.
Here are the two parts of the mast assembled. A screw keeps the wood and aluminum parts from going their separate ways.
The assembly will come apart soon so I can varnish the wooden part. That'll happen after I finish the boom & gaff.
Hybird MF14
Re: Hybird MF14
The boom and gaff will be 1.5-inch diameter Sitka Spruce by 13 feet 8 inches long, the same dimensions as a Sunfish rig.
My supplier only had 8-foot lengths, but was kind enough to pre-cut scarf joints for me.
Earlier in the project I came home from the box store with a 10-foot section of Unistrut. It makes a decent straightedge when carving plywood panels lengthwise with the circular saw.
In this case the strut was helpful getting the spar-building table straight and shimmed level. With a level table as my horizontal reference, the Unistrut then became the longitudinal reference for the scarf joints. Wrapped it in wax paper so I wouldn't epoxy the spars to the strut.
Finished scarf joints
My supplier only had 8-foot lengths, but was kind enough to pre-cut scarf joints for me.
Earlier in the project I came home from the box store with a 10-foot section of Unistrut. It makes a decent straightedge when carving plywood panels lengthwise with the circular saw.
In this case the strut was helpful getting the spar-building table straight and shimmed level. With a level table as my horizontal reference, the Unistrut then became the longitudinal reference for the scarf joints. Wrapped it in wax paper so I wouldn't epoxy the spars to the strut.
Finished scarf joints
Re: Hybird MF14
Making the spars is the same drill as the mast: knock off the corners, then knock off the corners again and again.
Here's the first corner planed off.
I got about two feet into it when I had one of those "this doesn't look right" moments. After a suitable period of measuring and head scratching I re-did the layout. Turns out some knothead had done the calculations for a hexagon instead of an octagon. Hence the double lines on the unplaned corners.
Halfway there:
I gave the spars catchy names, "A" and "B", so I could tell them apart.
Here's the first corner planed off.
I got about two feet into it when I had one of those "this doesn't look right" moments. After a suitable period of measuring and head scratching I re-did the layout. Turns out some knothead had done the calculations for a hexagon instead of an octagon. Hence the double lines on the unplaned corners.
Halfway there:
I gave the spars catchy names, "A" and "B", so I could tell them apart.
Re: Hybird MF14
Octagon
16 Sides
32 Sides
Re: Hybird MF14
Boom!
- cape man
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
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Re: Hybird MF14
Very nice.
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman
Re: Hybird MF14
Nice work!! Jeff
Re: Hybird MF14
I've finished shaping and sanding the spars. They taper at the leach (outer) end, just like the original wooden Sunfish spars.
The ends will be used to hold 'em while they get varnished. I'll cut and round off the ends after varnishing the body of the spar.
But before I clean the shop up for varnishing, I'll make the blocks and linked eyes that go on the booms.
The ends will be used to hold 'em while they get varnished. I'll cut and round off the ends after varnishing the body of the spar.
But before I clean the shop up for varnishing, I'll make the blocks and linked eyes that go on the booms.
Re: Hybird MF14
My next project was turning the sheaves (pulleys) for the halyard and mainsheet. The halyard sheeve will be embedded in the mast, up top, so it's diameter is the same as the thickness of the mast.
Rounding the blank:
There were a few false starts (ie: scrap) as I figured out how to cut the goove. Finished masthead sheave:
I also turned two smaller sheaves for the mainsheet:
They're just under 7/8" diameter. Ultimately they'll be attached to the underside of the boom. More on that later.
Rounding the blank:
There were a few false starts (ie: scrap) as I figured out how to cut the goove. Finished masthead sheave:
I also turned two smaller sheaves for the mainsheet:
They're just under 7/8" diameter. Ultimately they'll be attached to the underside of the boom. More on that later.
- Jaysen
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Re: Hybird MF14
My hatred of this perfection is simply due to my own feelings of inadequacy when seeing such beautiful work. It’s the boat porn equivalent of seeing the Mona Lisa, David, or the Sistine in person.
Your work is amazing. Absolutely stunning.
Your work is amazing. Absolutely stunning.
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