HC14 to Sailing Trimaran!

[narfi]

I think I figured out how to make it way too strong.... Now just need to figure out a compromise of too tough to ever break and too heavy to float.....

[VT_Jeff]

I think I figured out how to make it way too strong.... Now just need to figure out a compromise of too tough to ever break and too heavy to float.....

I like where you're going with that. I was skeptical before I saw the drawing. You may be able to hollow out those gussets to shave weight.

[narfi]

I think I figured out how to make it way too strong.... Now just need to figure out a compromise of too tough to ever break and too heavy to float.....

I like where you're going with that. I was skeptical before I saw the drawing. You may be able to hollow out those gussets to shave weight.

I should probably also raise it so the case is out of the water o.0 ... oops
heavily laden the canoe would sit kind of low and in theory with a strong wind or gust the outrigger could submerge to the deck, that means in extreme configuration (heavy canoe w/ outrigger nearly submerged) there is only an inch or two of clearance between the beam and the water. So I should probably build the bottom of the case flush with the bottom of the beam, and support the rest of the case above.... Question is how tall does the case need to be in order to support the board? Gusseted like that I imagine its nearly as stout as if the case was in the hull supported by top deck and bottom of hull, so I doubt I need it taller than the hull, but maybe I could get away with even shorter?

I imagine in my head the board stuck in a socket in the wall and me attempting a pull up on the end sticking out 5-6ft.... how deep does the socket need to be and how stout does the board need to be for that to work? Is that way overkill? I suspect it is.....

Is there any real advantage to two symmetrical boards vs 1 if they are not going to be housed inside the hulls? My thoughts when building in the hulls was to slant them in a little for a little extra lift, but other than that is there any advantage other than symmetry? If there was an advantage I could build two beam mounted cases as close to the outer hulls as possible instead of one offset as close to the center hull as possible.... I suppose they could be smaller then and have less load on each one, however isn't most(all?) of the load on the leeward hull and so in turn if the boards are far outboard only the leeward board would be beneficial?
One other possible advantage is that the weight would be symmetrical and outboard acting as ballast on the flying hull..... my guess is that for a conversion project like this that will be over weight and not a racer that it really wont matter much.... thoughts anyone?

[VT_Jeff]

I think I figured out how to make it way too strong.... Now just need to figure out a compromise of too tough to ever break and too heavy to float.....

I like where you're going with that. I was skeptical before I saw the drawing. You may be able to hollow out those gussets to shave weight.

I should probably also raise it so the case is out of the water o.0 ... oops
heavily laden the canoe would sit kind of low and in theory with a strong wind or gust the outrigger could submerge to the deck, that means in extreme configuration (heavy canoe w/ outrigger nearly submerged) there is only an inch or two of clearance between the beam and the water. So I should probably build the bottom of the case flush with the bottom of the beam, and support the rest of the case above.... Question is how tall does the case need to be in order to support the board? Gusseted like that I imagine its nearly as stout as if the case was in the hull supported by top deck and bottom of hull, so I doubt I need it taller than the hull, but maybe I could get away with even shorter?

I imagine in my head the board stuck in a socket in the wall and me attempting a pull up on the end sticking out 5-6ft.... how deep does the socket need to be and how stout does the board need to be for that to work? Is that way overkill? I suspect it is.....

Is there any real advantage to two symmetrical boards vs 1 if they are not going to be housed inside the hulls? My thoughts when building in the hulls was to slant them in a little for a little extra lift, but other than that is there any advantage other than symmetry? If there was an advantage I could build two beam mounted cases as close to the outer hulls as possible instead of one offset as close to the center hull as possible.... I suppose they could be smaller then and have less load on each one, however isn't most(all?) of the load on the leeward hull and so in turn if the boards are far outboard only the leeward board would be beneficial?
One other possible advantage is that the weight would be symmetrical and outboard acting as ballast on the flying hull..... my guess is that for a conversion project like this that will be over weight and not a racer that it really wont matter much.... thoughts anyone?

As much as I like your gusset idea, I'd be really inclined to reconsider a simple lee board, at least out of the gate. You get strength, ease of mounting and ease of adjustment, all for free, and it will give a simple indication of how much board you really need in the water. I suspect it's not much give the shape of the canoe/ama, they will help to resist lateral sliding quite a bit on their own in my guesstimation.

[narfi]

Sanded and shaped the outer seams last night and this afternoon.
I could have spent a little more time on the bow curve, but it's purely asthetic and I'm trying to be quick instead of pretty as much as I can force myself to.

Then my wife helped tape all the seams. She mixed and I applied.
First time using woven tapes, I think they went ok. I was careful at the bow and did it with a shorter strip so it would form around the curve better.

My intent has been to follow up with a layer of 6oz cloth but as stiff as the hulls were with just the inside taped, I'm toying with the idea of just fairing in this tape and calling it done.... Will see how it feels after it cures. The full top deck will add even more stiffness to it..... Thoughts?

[Fuzz]

I always want every piece of wood to be glassed over. With the added cost of getting materials to where you live I would not take any chances with what the build. but that is just me

[cape man]

I'm with Jeff and David. With those three hulls and the leeward one being dug in, I don't think you need the dagger board and gusset, or even a leeboard. Thats a pretty sharp keel you have made on them that will help a lot with preventing it from slipping. She'll track without them. If you have it, or can wait to get it, a piece of 4 ounce woven cloth will provide some abrasion resistance on the outside and not add much weight.

[narfi]

Cut and dry fit the cleats for attaching the decks. I think should provide good gluing surface area. Hopefully get them glued in tomorow with thickened epoxy.

Just for fun laid the mast ends on benches and sat on the middle, it held me fine though I was nervous and listening for any creaking or cracking. Fully dressed with my mud boots on I'm just over 200lbs. Roughly 23ft between the benches.

[cape man]

Your sail will rip or the boat capsize before the mast will break! Looking good.

[Jeff]

Nice work Narfi!!!! Jeff