HC14 to Sailing Trimaran!

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narfi
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Re: HC14 to Sailing Trimaran!

Post by narfi »

Epoxy primed inside the foils where the spar would sit and the trailing edge and coated the spars on all sides.
Applied thickened epoxy to the spars and trailing edge and folded them down on themselves.

The rudders blanks look near perfect but I struggled a bit with the longer one. Top and bottom skins not wanting to curve simetricaly and the middle of the leading edge was bowing opposite as the ends. After loosening the clamps and forcing into shape with one of the beams and retightening the clamps it is okish..... Will see if it springs out of shape once the epoxy is cured or if it is happy with it's new shape.

If I was to do it again I would take the time to build a few ribs. I don't think they are needed for strength but would make bending symmetrically much easier.
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narfi
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Re: HC14 to Sailing Trimaran!

Post by narfi »

Busy week, but I have still been doing a little, just nothing interesting to show.

Wrapped the rudders and board in 6oz woven.
Got 6oz biax on the 3rd face of the beams. Already got 12oz on the tops and bottoms and so just one more side face left to do in 6oz.

Wife helped with mixing again and holding the foils for me to keep them from swinging.
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Jeff
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Re: HC14 to Sailing Trimaran!

Post by Jeff »

Good stuff Narfi!!! Jeff

narfi
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Re: HC14 to Sailing Trimaran!

Post by narfi »

Got the last side of the beams glassed.
Finished sanding down the tape edges on the hulls, one last night one night before.
Laid 6oz cloth over the bottoms of the first hull up to the deck corner.
Not sure if it's a good idea or bad, theoretically it might be weaker, but not sure in reality.... I filled all the weave and the sanded edges (basically entire surface) with epoxy thickened with the light weight filler/fairing compound. I would have done wood flour but it doesn't squeegy out as smooth for applying glass over wet. With the fairing compound squeegeed out as thin as I could scrape it, I rolled a coat of epoxy and then laid the cloth, it seems pretty smooth, will see today after it's cured and I'm less tired.... But I think cosmeticly it worked great.

(I have been using wood flour wet under the biax tapes on the beams, but the biax allows inconsistencies to squirt through the fibers where woven kind of traps stuff (epoxy, air, debris, etc....) Underneath in ugly bubbles)
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narfi
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Location: Bush Alaska

Re: HC14 to Sailing Trimaran!

Post by narfi »

Family visiting for 2 weeks so not sure how much progress I will make .....

Last night I sanded, filled and applied the overlapping layer of 6oz woven over the top decks.

I really need to spend a weekend cleaning out the tent, kind of let it go when it was so muddy :( have a new tarp for the floor ordered so at some point will drag everything and the table out and try to level off all the mudholes I made walking around in the soup that have solidified now.
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Jeff
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Re: HC14 to Sailing Trimaran!

Post by Jeff »

Nice work Narfi!! Any progress on your airplane? Jeff

narfi
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Re: HC14 to Sailing Trimaran!

Post by narfi »

Jeff wrote: Tue Jun 08, 2021 11:38 am Nice work Narfi!! Any progress on your airplane? Jeff
No :/ its on hold till I get this project done :)

Jeff
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Re: HC14 to Sailing Trimaran!

Post by Jeff »

Got it!!! Jeff

narfi
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Re: HC14 to Sailing Trimaran!

Post by narfi »

Visiting family is gone. Back to work on the canoe :)

Applied a coat of fairing to all 4 sides of the beams and all but the top decks of the outriggers.

I had been planning to build sockets on the outriggers to bolt the beams to, but came to an appiphany laying in bed last night...... I don't need to break it down for anything, there aren't roads or width restrictions here..... I'll just be carting it down to the water so no need to overly complicated things. I can just attach the beams and outriggers solidly together. Fewer weak points to break that way :)

Built a crude jig for the table saw to cut the groove in the mast and boom. It worked 'okish'...... Blade is thinner than I needed the groove so attempted to have the jig slightly off center and pulled the mast through both directions. There was enough play in the jig I still had narrow spots I needed to enlarge with a combination of vibrating multitool saw and sandpaper wrapped around a butter knife.

Glassed the inside faces of my rudder and leeboard boxes.

The bolt rope of the luff slid through well and I think fits great. The plastic slug at the clew also fit great on the boom. However there are slugs at the head and tack that have a shorter length neck? (Standoff between the slug and attachment that fits through the slot in the track) they bind up as the combined width of the PEX, wood, and fiberglass are just barely too thick.

I could sand that down some, but would loose the glass which gives the track strength and retains the PEX... So I don't want to do that. Would it be easy to get slugs like the one on the clew to replace the ones at the head and tack? Or is there a good reason for them being different? If it is ok to do that, would it also be practical to install them along the entire leading edge to use instead of the bolt rope? It fits and slides fine, but there is some friction when the entire sail is in the track.... It works fine, but would hate for it to bind at an inopertune time......
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narfi
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Posts: 2433
Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2016 6:55 pm
Location: Bush Alaska
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Re: HC14 to Sailing Trimaran!

Post by narfi »

Todd Bradshaw(on another forum) wrote:I'd cut those headboard slugs off and attach different ones. They can be attached by drilling a small hole through the headboards (slightly behind the place where the current slugs are) and using small stainless shackles to attach new slugs. Places like Sailrite have a variety of slug styles available.

The first thing to do on the boltrope is to rub it down with paraffin, which will seriously reduce friction. There are also some sprays available for the job, though on a wooden boat with painted or varnished surfaces you want to avoid the use of any products containing silicone. Incidental contact with other parts of the boat can make for nasty paint adhesion problems if you ever need to do some touch-up painting.
Good advice as always, thanks.
I will look into replacing the headboard slug and the tack, I was worried it would be difficult to replace the one at the headboard, but your suggesion is simple and easy. I will make sure to keep the same distance so the shape stays the same.

I didn't have much time last night, but closed in the rudder and leeboard boxes, well I say 'closed in' loosely since there is just the two sides connected by the block in the front of each one. I am hoping that the hinge pin in the center will be enough to keep them from flexing too much, to be honest, I suspect they are a bit of overkill, but after seeing Lee.007s issues with his rudders and board, I want to errror on the side of caution. (forgot to take any pictures)

Thinking about rigging and routing and all that entails..........

I have reinforced areas for the chainplates on the outriggers already and will make a bracket about 3/4 of the way up the mast that they will go to as well as the forstay. I had originally planned to attach the forestay to the front of the canoe, however as I think I have managed to get everything else attached to the outriggers and beams, in the spirit of a 'convertable canoe' that literaly just bolts on and goes, I think I will make a bridal between the front of the two outriggers to attach the forestay to as well. I just need to figure out a good method of attachement and how high the 'Y' should be.

I bought a variaty of pulleys and need to figure out what I need where for everything else still

Top of the mast, I will build an aluminum bracket housing two pulleys transitioning from up inside the mast to down the back of it. I only need one for the halyard, but figured another would be convenient for flags or if something goes wrong with the first one.
Bottom of the mast..... Still not sure how to transition the lines from inside to outside for the most practical ease of use. My two ideas are pullyes at the bottom out each side comming up to cleats, or angled holes in the side of the mast on each side just above head height comming down to cleats. I would insert pex tubes 5-6 inches inside the mast directing up and a couple inches on the outside directing down and reinforced with multiple layers of fiberglass. So I guess my question is this, is it better to pull down, or to pull up, or is there a better more standardized way of doing this?

Gooseneck, I haven't built it yet, but have a fairly good idea of what I need. A universal joint that connects the boom to the mast track and has a method of attaching to the sail and the downhaul. I understand the need for the pivot up and down and side to side, but is there any need for the boom to twist as well? I know some use a pin, but it would be simpler I think to use straps around the boom to attach it. I can still make it swivel if it needs to twist, but don't want to make it more complex than I need to.

Downhaul, how much leverage do I need? I got 2 of these very cheap, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VF ... UTF8&psc=1 not sure if it is a good idea or not....

Outhaul, routing.... leverage needed? pulley at each end of the boom with the line running inside and then pulled back on the outside to a cleat on the side of the boom?

Sheet and traveler system..... of everything, this seems to need to be the most ergonomic, and with no experience I am clueless..... still thinking about it and reading what I can find.

Rudders.... 3 lines to each going to pulleys on the back side of the rear beam, 1 intertie to the other rudder, 1 control, and 1 retract, they will be spring or bungee down. Need to figure out a tiller system mounted on the rear beam that the control lines come to from each rudder.

Leeboard, 1 retract line and will be spring or bungee down.

As you can see, lots rattleing around in my mind, just not much knowledge or experience.... Makes for a fun adventure

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