HC14 to Sailing Trimaran!
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Re: HC14 to Sailing Trimaran!
Whats the deal? Did you scare spring off? This sucks and it is coming down like mad over here now.
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Re: HC14 to Sailing Trimaran!
Edit for anyone reading this later: These panels worked, but I messed up dimensions and the bulkheads needed to be cut down, so the total volume is less than I originally planned even though the panels did fit together nicely.
I have the mast shaped and outside glassed but then the sunny days stopped and its not getting warm enough for me to want to keep tempting the epoxy not to work.
I ran out of airplane plans again so simi focusing on this project till I get more. I think I have my plans finalized for the hull panels and will cut them out this weekend if all goes well.
If anyone wants to look them over and tell me to STOP!!! before cutting, feel free..... I am just faking it, but its been kind of fun trying to figure it all out.
I made a little zip file with everything in it, but doesnt look like I can upload it here, will see if the PDFs work or not,
Here is the 'readme' I put in the zip.
I have the mast shaped and outside glassed but then the sunny days stopped and its not getting warm enough for me to want to keep tempting the epoxy not to work.
I ran out of airplane plans again so simi focusing on this project till I get more. I think I have my plans finalized for the hull panels and will cut them out this weekend if all goes well.
If anyone wants to look them over and tell me to STOP!!! before cutting, feel free..... I am just faking it, but its been kind of fun trying to figure it all out.
I made a little zip file with everything in it, but doesnt look like I can upload it here, will see if the PDFs work or not,
Here is the 'readme' I put in the zip.
Narfi's first attempt at outriggers.
All panels are measured on 12inch lines.
Draw a vertical line every 12inches and mark the measurements for each side from the edge of plywood, use those marks to draw a fair curve.
Bulkhead station numbers are measured in inches from the transom. 24 is 24inches from the transom, 48 is 48inches, etc....
Each hull is made up of 2x bottom panels to form a V shaped rocker on the bottom (it is not a single panel flat bottom), 2x chine panels, 2x upper panels, and 1 deck.
If you want a flat bottom instead of the V, make it 8" wide in the center 138 inches long with a fair curve, this should stitch nicely to the bottom of the chine panels.
The hulls are 12ft long so the first 8ft of each panel can be cut from a sheet of plywood and the last 4 cut sideways on another.
Doing this Two hulls can be made from 3 sheets of plywood excluding the upper deck, transom and bulkheads.
I plan to make most of it from 4mm bs1088 plywood with 6mm upper deck and 6mm transom.
I will mount the beams over bulkheads 24 and 96. The transom will be reinforced to support the rudders.
I have not figured out daggerboard cases yet and still need to calculate their location, but will cut them in after the hull is glassed, but before the upper deck is installed.
I will tape all seams with 6oz tape and cover the plywood in and out with 6oz woven.
The top deck is perfectly flat on the same plane, so it can be built upside down using a flat surface and bulkheads for the jig.
I may not install bulkhead 108.
Bulkheads 24 and 96 (beam supports) are full size bulkheads.
The two bulkheads between will have the centers cut out to create a place to stow small 'stuff'.
I have done this while teaching myself Solidworks on a Student edition, this should not be considered a commercial endeavor in any way.
If it is useful for any reason feel free to use any or none of the information provided.
Feedback is welcome. (I really don't know what I am doing, but having fun 'faking' it )
Last edited by narfi on Fri Jun 04, 2021 11:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: HC14 to Sailing Trimaran!
narfi wrote: ↑Fri Apr 23, 2021 5:17 pm I have the mast shaped and outside glassed but then the sunny days stopped and its not getting warm enough for me to want to keep tempting the epoxy not to work.
I ran out of airplane plans again so simi focusing on this project till I get more. I think I have my plans finalized for the hull panels and will cut them out this weekend if all goes well.
If anyone wants to look them over and tell me to STOP!!! before cutting, feel free..... I am just faking it, but its been kind of fun trying to figure it all out.
I made a little zip file with everything in it, but doesnt look like I can upload it here, will see if the PDFs work or not,
Here is the 'readme' I put in the zip.
Wow!Narfi's first attempt at outriggers.
All panels are measured on 12inch lines.
Draw a vertical line every 12inches and mark the measurements for each side from the edge of plywood, use those marks to draw a fair curve.
Bulkhead station numbers are measured in inches from the transom. 24 is 24inches from the transom, 48 is 48inches, etc....
Each hull is made up of 2x bottom panels to form a V shaped rocker on the bottom (it is not a single panel flat bottom), 2x chine panels, 2x upper panels, and 1 deck.
If you want a flat bottom instead of the V, make it 8" wide in the center 138 inches long with a fair curve, this should stitch nicely to the bottom of the chine panels.
The hulls are 12ft long so the first 8ft of each panel can be cut from a sheet of plywood and the last 4 cut sideways on another.
Doing this Two hulls can be made from 3 sheets of plywood excluding the upper deck, transom and bulkheads.
I plan to make most of it from 4mm bs1088 plywood with 6mm upper deck and 6mm transom.
I will mount the beams over bulkheads 24 and 96. The transom will be reinforced to support the rudders.
I have not figured out daggerboard cases yet and still need to calculate their location, but will cut them in after the hull is glassed, but before the upper deck is installed.
I will tape all seams with 6oz tape and cover the plywood in and out with 6oz woven.
The top deck is perfectly flat on the same plane, so it can be built upside down using a flat surface and bulkheads for the jig.
I may not install bulkhead 108.
Bulkheads 24 and 96 (beam supports) are full size bulkheads.
The two bulkheads between will have the centers cut out to create a place to stow small 'stuff'.
I have done this while teaching myself Solidworks on a Student edition, this should not be considered a commercial endeavor in any way.
If it is useful for any reason feel free to use any or none of the information provided.
Feedback is welcome. (I really don't know what I am doing, but having fun 'faking' it )
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
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Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
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Re: HC14 to Sailing Trimaran!
With the greenhouse effect it got up to over 70f in the tent again yesterday so I glasses the first side of the boom. The mast is glasses all around now and just letting cure a little more before I sand down and fair. I hung a toolbox from the center of it while curing maybe got a little prebend in it, not sure it's pretty stiff. I figure if it's straight I'm happy and if it bends back a little I'll be happy. It's not high tec.
Started drawing out the panels and had an epiphany. No need to glass the inside when the tapes are as wide as the panels..... The tapes will be enough inside and then on the outside will decide if I can smooth the tapes enough without damaging them or if I want a layer of woven still on the outside for cosmetic reasons.
This simplifies a question I had been going back and forth on..... Would it be better to glass an entire sheet of plywood and cut the panels out from that assembling it glass inside the hill, or to cut the panels and glass them on the table before assembly. The answer is neither :p
Started drawing out the panels and had an epiphany. No need to glass the inside when the tapes are as wide as the panels..... The tapes will be enough inside and then on the outside will decide if I can smooth the tapes enough without damaging them or if I want a layer of woven still on the outside for cosmetic reasons.
This simplifies a question I had been going back and forth on..... Would it be better to glass an entire sheet of plywood and cut the panels out from that assembling it glass inside the hill, or to cut the panels and glass them on the table before assembly. The answer is neither :p
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Re: HC14 to Sailing Trimaran!
I had forgotten how much time it takes to draw out and cut panels. Thankfully I caught two errors before cutting by eyeing down the row of nails to see if the curves looked fair before drawing.
Here we have 3 sheets of plywood cut out and the 8ft and 4ft sections waiting to be taped and epoxied into their ~12ft sections.
Started drawing out the bulkheads on the scraps but most of them will need to be cut from a 4th sheet of plywood. I haven't calculated but I can probably get the bulkheads and top deck with just one more sheet... Guess we will see
It is kind of a mind game that gets the better of me, I am building two hulls, but they are simetrical/identical, so when designing(faking?) Them I only picture the one so in my mind I have all the panels cutout and just need a set of bulkhead/formers but in reality I need two of each... Maybe just me but funny how the brain works against us sometimes.
Here we have 3 sheets of plywood cut out and the 8ft and 4ft sections waiting to be taped and epoxied into their ~12ft sections.
Started drawing out the bulkheads on the scraps but most of them will need to be cut from a 4th sheet of plywood. I haven't calculated but I can probably get the bulkheads and top deck with just one more sheet... Guess we will see
It is kind of a mind game that gets the better of me, I am building two hulls, but they are simetrical/identical, so when designing(faking?) Them I only picture the one so in my mind I have all the panels cutout and just need a set of bulkhead/formers but in reality I need two of each... Maybe just me but funny how the brain works against us sometimes.
- cape man
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Re: HC14 to Sailing Trimaran!
Watching with interest!! You may just be forcing me into making something out of cedar strips for mine.
As to the dagger board(s) you should not need much more than a decent skeg to keep her tracking. The sailing canoes I've seen in the Pacific relied on the outriggers to provide leeward resistance to keep them going forward with a small, fairly shallow skeg.
As to the dagger board(s) you should not need much more than a decent skeg to keep her tracking. The sailing canoes I've seen in the Pacific relied on the outriggers to provide leeward resistance to keep them going forward with a small, fairly shallow skeg.
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman
Re: HC14 to Sailing Trimaran!
Cool project Narfi!!! Jeff
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Re: HC14 to Sailing Trimaran!
Sanded down the lumps on the boom and glassed the second side of it.
Layed out and taped together half of the panels.
Layed out and taped together half of the panels.
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Re: HC14 to Sailing Trimaran!
No attempt to change your plans. Have you seen the Dierking foam amas?
Cool project.
I missed if you are making lee boards or how to keep it from slipping sideways.
All the best.
I own the book how to make a 5 hour $50 canoe sail rig. I made the sail, but never bothered finishing once I realized sails were not allowed in the bwca.
Cool project.
I missed if you are making lee boards or how to keep it from slipping sideways.
All the best.
I own the book how to make a 5 hour $50 canoe sail rig. I made the sail, but never bothered finishing once I realized sails were not allowed in the bwca.
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Re: HC14 to Sailing Trimaran!
I haven't seen them, I'll look them up.
I will make actual daggerboards in each ama. I have a rough idea where they should be but will make the cases twice as long (fore and aft) as the boards and use spacers with a secondary case to fine tune balance for them.
I will make actual daggerboards in each ama. I have a rough idea where they should be but will make the cases twice as long (fore and aft) as the boards and use spacers with a secondary case to fine tune balance for them.
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