AD16 - Cool Change

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jacquesmm
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Post by jacquesmm »

For large pieces, roll the glass on tube then unroll on the boat.
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ks8
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Post by ks8 »

I laid dry cloth over dry wood and poured epoxy over the cloth and worked it through, in cool weather. It was very easy. Used small 3 to 4 oz batches so any mistakes would be small ones (like the one I won't mention).

But I also did smaller panels where some were tacky, and some were completely cured washed sanded before the cloth was added. On the tacky ones, I was concerned about a wrinkled misaligned mess. All you do is pre fold the dry cloth to a size you can handle, but is folded in a way that logically it will progressively *rollout* into position. But I did not let the rolled up bundle sit on the panel, but held it air borne as I slowly applied and few inches at a time made sure it stayed aligned, flat, and not wrinkled. It worked out well, but you may want a few extra helpers for handling the large pieces used for sheathing a hull. Make sure they have very clean and dry hands when handling the cloth with you, and are aware of the whole epoxy on clothes risk. Maybe do a dry run of the operation on a dry hull before the tacky epoxy is waiting for you.

Getting the sheathing done is a rewarding milestone. Enjoy the moment.

Well, I just read Jacques reply which he posted while I was writing mine. Sounds like how I'll do the next hull. The tube sounds like the way to go! Probably won't need the helpers rolling it off a tube.

ks

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Post by ArizonaBuilder »

Great replys. Since I will be building alone, now I know how to take sheathing the hull..

thanks again.
Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.
-- Benjamin Franklin

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Post by ArizonaBuilder »

Well, another week has past and it is time for my weekly update.

I finished cutting out all the hull panels from the 1/4 ply, along with
all 12 pieces for the keel shoe. The 10 sheets of 1/4" Okoume are now parts and a pile of scrap lumber.

I also cut out the CB case, the skeg and stem pieces and one of the 3 pieces making up the CB from my 1/2 ply.

This week I plan on cutting out the rudder and CB pieces and assembling the rudder, CB case and CB. If this goes well I will start to cut out the frames and stringers from the 3/8 ply.

Assembly is getting closer but it will probably be another 2 weeks before I get to see the hull taking shape.
Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.
-- Benjamin Franklin

ArizonaBuilder
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Post by ArizonaBuilder »

Time for another update.

Since I finally got the CB and CB case dimensions sorted around.
I have cut out the CB panels and laminated them together. I also inserted some 2" round delrin stock at the CB pivot point. The delrin bushing was drilled with a 5/8" hole which will accept the 5/8" SS tubing. When I glued the delring bushing into the CB, I roughed up the outter edge and drilled some small shallow holes around the outside of the bushing and around the
inside of the hole cut out of the CB. I coated the bushing and the hole with wood flour glue making sure the small holes were full of glue. So when this all drys, I am hoping the bushing never dislodges from the hole.

The CB case sides are cut and I coated the inside with 2 coats of epoxy and some 4oz cloth, I had kicking around from the D5 build. But now I am wondering if I should add another layer of 4oz, incase the doug fir decides it wants to check in the future. Inside the CB case is not a place I want to deal with wood checking and creating an avenue for water to enter the wood case. I glued the side pieces on last night using a 2x2 at the front edge and a 2x1 for the back edge. The cleat sizes were determined after placing the CB inside the case and checking for the clearance forward and aft. The 2x2 at the forward edge is large enough that the CB can only drop so far before contacting the forward edge and fully extended appears to be at the correct position as seen on the plans.


I have also cut out the rudder and laminated the two pieces together.

Tonight I will cleanup the rudder edges and cut out the lightening holes.
I will add another layer of 4oz cloth and epoxy to the inside of the CB case so tomorrow, I can assemble the two halves together. Hopefully after this weekend, I can move on to cutting out the frames and stringers.

Thats it for now. I will try and do a couple of pictures this weekend.
Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.
-- Benjamin Franklin

ks8
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Post by ks8 »

I put only one layer of 6 oz in the CB trunk also. Then one coat to fill weave, then microballoons/silica, sand fair, and final seal coat. Then 4 coats primer brush and tipped on. I'm debating a coat of cuprox/teflon, but I do want to go in lakes that are part of the watershed, and CuprOx is a no no then. I really don't think it will check even as is. :lol: But if it does, it should be awhile for that to happen, and I have an alternate idea for another trunk then anyway, one that more easily allows swapping in a fully pivoting spare while in the water, in under a minute, without undoing the other pivot bolt and having to deal with the north atlantic gurgling up into my boat. :)

I have had no checking anywhere that I put a single layer of 4 oz, and certainly not with the 6 oz. I started the build 4 years ago. But I do not have years of experience with this stuff either, in the water.

Of course no primer or fairing mix is within a half inch of where the two sides of the case will bond together, and where it will be biaxed into the hull bottom I will be roughing it up before joining the two sides so that the bottom 2 inches of the inside will bond well to the biax that wraps into it from the underside of the hull. Once I bond the two sides of the case together, She's done regarding any primer or paint or changes.

All that glass and epoxy may thin the slot if you didn't apply any in the bond area for the two sides, and doing the same to the CB will thicken it. Be Careful of the obvious!

Sincerely,
ks

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Post by jacquesmm »

ArizonaBuilder wrote: I also inserted some 2" round delrin stock at the CB pivot point. The delrin bushing was drilled with a 5/8" hole which will accept the 5/8" SS tubing.
Don't we show a square piece of Delring drilled round? That keeps it from turnning with the pivot.
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ArizonaBuilder
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Post by ArizonaBuilder »

jacquesmm wrote:
ArizonaBuilder wrote: I also inserted some 2" round delrin stock at the CB pivot point. The delrin bushing was drilled with a 5/8" hole which will accept the 5/8" SS tubing.
Don't we show a square piece of Delring drilled round? That keeps it from turnning with the pivot.
Yes, you did. When searching for delrin stock it was outragest the price they want for a 1 1/2" thick flat stock. I know now, I could have gotten thin stock and cut a series of squares to build up the thickness. :oops:

To keep the round stock from turning, I drilled a series of short holes in the delrin tube and in the wood. These holes were filled with wood glue before putting the delrin stock in the hole. The epoxy will harden and act like little fingers sticking into wood and into the delrin to hold the bushing in place. I am hoping this stops any turning or sliding out of the hole of the delrin bushing.

I could also drill some 1/2" holes right through the CB with the center of the hole at the boundary between the delrin and the wood. This would give me a half circle in the delring stock and a half circle in the wood. When this hole is completely filled with epoxy glue, this would act as a wedge that would stop any rotational movement. But I don't think I need to be that extreme.

Since the SS tube is not tight inside the delrin bushing, there shouldn't be a lot of rotational force to cause the bushing to rotate. :doh:
Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.
-- Benjamin Franklin

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Post by ArizonaBuilder »

This update is not about Cool Change, but about my first sailing lesson this week. The class has 20 eager students all wanting to learn the basics of sailing. We spent the first night for 2 1/2 hours going over the parts of the boat and theory on how the sails and wind forces work. It was a great class and the 2 1/2 hours seemed like an hour. Yesterday we went to a local man made lake called Tempe Town Lake where we were broken up into groups and were shown how to rig and derig our boats. We will be sailing in Capri 14.2s and Sunfishes. The Sunfishes were surprising easy to rig, but I was amazed how much rigging was required for the Capri's. For such a small boat they had the main and jib, along with boom vang, outhaul, downhaul, etc. We weren't able to get the boats on the water due to the amount of rain, we have had in Arizona and water access was closed to the public. We did however practice some tacking maneuvers on land with the capri's on their trailers. We have 3 more sessions of class room and on the water sailing. I am already feeling good about taking Cool Change to the lake when it is done. It should be a great boat for sailing around the lake's here in Arizona.

Now off to get Cool Change built..

I was also speaking to the Arizona Game and Fish at the local boat show here this weekend and they are the ones who will issue me a hull number for the boat. They want to see sale slips for the purchase of materials to prove I am the builder of the hull and did not steal it from someone. They also indicated that pictures taken during the build process would also be proof that I built the hull, if I couldn't locate the sale slips. Also credit card purchases from e-boat. etc. The USCG also said they would come to me and make a free safety inspection, but the AFG said I would have to bring the boat to them.

State Farm said I would need a boat survey to determine the market value of the boat for insurance. And they quoted a ball park figure of around 150.00 a year for a boat with a value of 5,0000.00.

Slowly the pieces are starting to fall into place.
Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.
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JustRight

Insurance

Post by JustRight »

Terry,

If you receive a certificate from your sailing class, it might help to lower your insurance rate. Membership and/or certificates from USCGA or Power Squadron may lead to a lower rate.

Check out BOAT US insurance.

Glad to see that you are proceeding on the boat.

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