NC16 nearly completed, just lacks paint

[Deadgobot]

That's how I carry my CC14 - just lift it up and put my head inside right at the butt block. If it's more than 100 feet or so, I wear a hat. Very easy to balance and control, also a good reason to build it light.

I imagined that my back brace would also be reasonably close to a balance point where I could rest the canoe on my shoulders at the brace and portage it thusly, with the canoe just slightly heavier in the back. No calculations, just spitballing.

I was quite wrong. The best point is, as you say, with your head at the butt blocks. On my shoulders at the brace I have to exert considerable effort to keep it balanced.

I like the explanation of why it weathercocks, and it makes sense. Each time I've taken it out I've noticed the tendency. I have plans to take it fishing soon, so I'll put the cooler behind me to spread the weight out a bit. (I have little trouble reaching behind me in the canoe, a testament to the stability of the design, I think, more than my elite nimbleness.)

[rudar]

Good stuff. I was planning to mostly paddle it kneeling, so was thinking of either glueing a foam layer over the seat re-inforcement panel, or running velcro straps under it. Either way, the foam would be fixed enough to stay there during portages and pad my head as well as padding my knees when paddling.

Incidentally, how are people dealing with the seat re-inforcement panel when finishing/ painting? It seems there'll be this skinny gap under there that would be really hard to paint neatly, and would tend to gather dirt and stuff... Or do you put tape between that panel and the floor to seal the gap in?

[Deadgobot]

Incidentally, how are people dealing with the seat re-inforcement panel when finishing/ painting? It seems there'll be this skinny gap under there that would be really hard to paint neatly, and would tend to gather dirt and stuff... Or do you put tape between that panel and the floor to seal the gap in?

I used the Jedi Knight method--I waved my hand and say "this is not an issue" and carried on.

All the wood is epoxy coated, it's not exposed to UV rays, so it should be fine.

[rudar]

sounds like a plan. I'll make a mental note to be sure to epoxy coat the re-inforcement panel *before* filleting it in place, though. That's just the sort of ``D'Oh!'' moment I could imagine myself doing

[Laszlo]

Since the seat pan is optional on the CC14, I left it out. Been over 4 years & the boat still hasn't broken in half, even when loaded 100 lbs over the design weight.

Laszlo

[nort]

I've put over 500 lb's in mine and it still floated. Not by much, but there was still 3or 4 inches. Mine is made from cheap luan too. Once you get the tape and the rub rail on them they are amazingly strong. I like the openness of the design so I can move around and put the ice chest and other stuff in it. I have my NC16 sitting in the garage just needing to be faired and painted. I really need to finish it before I start to creep up on Rick and KS for how long it has taken me to build it. Of course, part of my delay was a hurricane and then there was the move and I still haven't found my hardner and Quickfair after the move.

[Betowess]

Got a kick out of reading/viewing the splash chronicle. Good stuff and I like the boats colors!

[Fred in Wisc]

I must compliment your "Jedi Knight Method". Appears much more time efficient than my "Obsess Endlessly" method.

Just git 'er done.

Fred in Wisc