Jimzee: A C12 Tribute

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tech_support
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Post by tech_support »

It takes a few seconds for the epoxy to penetrate the tape, so keep working forward even if its not clear. Here is a video....

http://boatbuildercentral.com/howto/wetting_tape.php

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Post by Biker B.O.B. »

Thanks Shine. :D Wish I had seen that video earlier. It will certainly make the inside seams much easier. I'll definately be purchasing a bunch of chip brushes now.

To give a little perspective... In the time it took to play the whole video, I probably got about one foot along just the top portion of the tape. And maybe would have completed about six inches below the chine.

But, for the most part it turned out good. There are a few places where the tape lifed off of the chine and I got air bubbles, but it's wet out pretty well.

This first pic looks bad becuase of the texture of the biaxial tape and reflections. But you can see that I've completed taping the outside seams and one coat of epoxy on the outside surface of the hull.
Image


Now for a different angle without the flash. You can see the biaxial tape and compare it to the 9 oz. regular tape. The 9 oz. tape is covering the joint between sheets of plywood that make up the longer hull side.
Image


Now, on to the inside.

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Post by Biker B.O.B. »

Cracker Larry wrote:
Second, with a roller, wet the complete area that the tape will cover with epoxy. A fairly heavy coat, but not to the point of running.
Here is one major difference. I rolled a relatively thin coat, it barely held the tape in place. Shine's video also helped. It's just so different than the 6 oz biax that I used in my first build and I was suprised.


To all, I'll try to make it to Crystal River. Doubt I'll have Jimzee done by then. We'll see.

Edit: I just checked out the thread on the meet in Crystal River. I've got to be at Hillsborough River State Park for the State Envirothon Contest Friday and Saturday of that weekend. I might make it there by 4 or 5.
Last edited by Biker B.O.B. on Fri Oct 24, 2008 10:07 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by Trebuchet »

Looks great!

That plywood sure is handsome.

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Post by Biker B.O.B. »

Trebuchet wrote:Looks great!

That plywood sure is handsome.
Thanks, it's standard Okume 1088 that I got locally. It's almost a shame that I'll have to put paint over it. As a forester I can really appreciate the natural beauty of wood. I hope to be able to keep the transom bright. To this end I used the 9 oz woven tape on the transom seams. It just wets out so much better than the 12 biaxial tape.

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Post by Gramps »

It sure is looking good! Almost looks like a toy barn is in order :lol:

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Post by Biker B.O.B. »

You got that right. I need to get this boat out of my garage. I'm thinking about a 14' x 24' wooden shed. I'll be paying off my truck by the end of the year, and some of that money will go towards materials for my workshop. I also promised the CFO new counter tops and appliances in the kitchen. So, the workshop may come just in time for my next build.

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Post by Biker B.O.B. »

I made a little progress this weekend. The rub rails are now glued on.

Well, I'd post a pic but the site won't let me past the link. :x :x


On to the next issue. This boat is beamier than the first one, so I've got to figure out a way to reache the inside of the keel to tape it. This is one reason that I'm working on the rub rail now. I'll try to find a way to tip the boat on it's side (after taping the chine seams and transom) so that I can reach the keel.

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Post by ks8 »

It's great being able to work on the hull on its side, but I did so after the structure was constructed enough to be permanently shaped and fairly immune from accidentally introducing twist in any subsequent construction phase.

Do your best to make sure all is true and square before and during the taping and cure. Turning it on its side may introduce a twist, and you don't want the tape to hold a tension of twist, if you can avoid it. I used something like a ladder that I set up over the hull, to reach to the keel seam without straining my back, crawling out on the ladder. Of course, the *ladder* was not resting on the sheer, but about an inch above it on some simple horses I made for just that purpose. No pictures of it ... sorry. Also, because my hull was in a lined up cradle, I could lean some of my weight, while laying out on the ladder, on the panels while doing the taping, to somewhat brace myself during the maneuvers without fear of drastically throwing it off square. I quickly measured before it cured to make sure all was still square. I also did that seam in two or three sessions (time constraints with work, etc), and put the overlaps at a frame position and at the CB slot, where there would be plenty of aditional tape, or it would be cut away anyway for the slot. This relieved some of the pressure on me, and on my schedule, and made for a more enjoyable build... over seven years! :lol:

Whatever you do, keep checking those lnes and measurements for square while moving the hull around, before anything cures and makes a twist permanent, not that it would be the end of the world. :)

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Post by Biker B.O.B. »

ks8 - thanks for the input. I do plan to have everything else taped and cured before turning the boat on its side; possibly even the frames. Your post made me think that perhaps I should tip it on its side to tape the keel seam, and then flatten it out and double check the measurements before it cures.

So far, everything is straigh and properly proportioned. One of the reasons I did the rub rails this early is to help stiffen the hull before I get much further along.

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