FL12 - NW Trout - ***SPLASHED***

[bondo]

Fisheries' Supply, North lk. Union has everything except plywood. Expensive though. Fiberlay, South Seattle, East Marginal has fiberglass supplies. Home Builders' Center, Nickerson St. has marine ply. Meranti, Okume. They will sell you partial sheets. I've gotten most of my ply. from Crosscut Hardwoods also. Looks like it's going great, good luck.

[quadradomus]

Looking great... more photos please

[NW Trout]

Not a lot of positive progress to report, but haven't done much the last week or so. No pics today.

Interior Foot well chines fillet'd and taped. The Poor Man's Peel ply didn't work as well as I hoped. A few too many air bubbles, voids and wrinkle impressions from the folds. Going to spend some time sanding those spots down and recoating. Rats!

Spent a bit of time today cutting furring/batten pieces to build out the seat compartments. I am about 16 inches short of the furring strips needed to complete what I need, so stopped there until a visit to local big box depot for more, along with 4 or 6 AWG wire for the battery cable run.

Also will likely be about 12 feet short of 1/4 plywood needed for the 3-layer rub rail. Internal debate now is to use inexpensive exterior plywood or luan for the inner layers of the rub rail where they'll be hidden, or head to downtown Seattle to Crosscut or Home Builders for proper Okume or Meranti. I likely opt for the better marine grade. We want this done as best we can.

That is all. Over and out.

[Arawak]

You don't have to use scrap plywood for the rub rail. I got my dad to rip and thickness white ash to 8' strips in the same size as the plywood (6mm IIRC), and laminated those up... it came out looking quite nice and very stiff.

[NW Trout]

Update 3/1/2010


Internal seat compartments framed & ready for epoxy glue


Frame detail showing rabbit needed to adjust for floor butt block thickness.


Rotozip with circle attachment makes quick work for deck hatch cut outs


Rear interior compartment pieces set in place. Hope is side compartments will be watertight but still accessible from interior of seat.



PVC conduit set in place to allow electric motor wire to run thru compartments and to center seat battery well.


Bow eye located and drilled.


Challenge will be reaching into bow seat to tighten down.


Seat top hatches have been cut in the transom and mid seats. Undersides of all seats and internal seat spaces have one coat of epoxy on all surfaces now. Need to pick up seat hinges, cut for flush mounting and then seats can be glued in.

Rethinking the brightwork ideas a bit. I think using it for accents helps make it pop more.

Also a neighbor - a guy who has built 5 or so boats in his life (plywood, cedar strip,e tc) cautioned to build it durable for the kid use. Thinking about strake material and numbers of strakes to help protect it during the inevitable beaching. Or going with adding cloth on the bottom.

[quadradomus]

John, nice photos. What exactly are the panels with the circle holes cut in them for? I realize you battery is going in the center of the seat box, and the wiring will go out the pvc.

[NW Trout]

Chris

The rear seat will have access into the side compartments via 4 inch round deck hatches hidden inside the seat. The center seat will have 6 inch exterior deck hatches in the front foot well.

My thinking - based on advice from others - is this makes water-tight compartments plus allows for both for inspection for any issues (water, damage) and additional storage (small jackets, water bottles).

If I could wind the clock back, I'd have put the wire conduit and runs between seats along the chine. Next boat

[NW Trout]

Took Bondo's tip and stopped by Home Builder's Center. Picked up a half sheet of 1/4 meranti 2ftx8ft. Plenty for nice long rub rail pieces. And checked out their pieces of ply wood left over for selling half sheets and what not. A few nice boards in there would serve well for breasthooks, knees and other items. Something to keep in mind.

Also a stop by Fisheries Supply for a few items - QuickFair, hinges, foam rollers.

[quadradomus]

"And checked out their pieces of ply wood left over for selling half sheets and what not. A few nice boards in there would serve well for breasthooks, knees and other items. Something to keep in mind."

Hey now... I'm on your tail with this project, I might beat you to those wood scraps. (just kidding)

[NW Trout]

It’s been a week or so, here’s what’s been cooking in garage

Hinge work. Next time I’ll opt for flush, SQUARE hinges. Still, traced the hinge on scrap plywood. Cut out with a coping saw, added plywood to built to proper height for router morticeing bit with a guide bearing. A bit of chisel work to cut the area for the hinge barrel.





Transom and mid-seat glued in, clamped, weighted


Temp rip fence added to circular saw for rub rails


Rub rails cut and roller primed


Inwales (sp?) glued and clamped


I think it’s a rule that any rub rail work needs the PVC clamp work photo documented


Results so far






Next up is glue/tape transom and mid-seat, flip and start on the bottom work.