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FL12 - NW Trout - ***SPLASHED***

Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 11:38 pm
by NW Trout
Greeting all

Well, the plans arrived a few weeks ago. Meranti plywood was picked up Thursday from CrossCut Lumber in Seattle. I had originally looked at Edensaw in Tacoma & Port Townsend. However, the weekday only hours at their Tacoma location and my regular 8-5/6pm job made it just about impossible to get down to their place. Maybe next time because they seem like a quality outfit.

A recommendation led me to Crosscut in Seattle. Tryg at Crosscut matched the quote I got from Edensaw and saved me a good couple of driving hours in I-5 traffic. Also, he was prompt with replies to questions and order status. Good service is awesome.

System Three Resin kit arrived from Bateau on Friday (with a very quiet knock from the UPS driver).

Here is what my son and I are shooting for:
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Spent Friday night measuring, drawing, making fair curves and what not on the plywood. And, boy are some of those pieces/panels nested tight! Still everything measured out just as it should. Good details and plan instructions. I think the sheet length was a half inch over 8-feet so we got small amount of wiggle room.

Put together a rolling dolly that fits an old folding table. It will let us regain that side of the garage by moving everything to the back of the double deep bay.
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Taped plans to cardboard for easy and quick reference (and so we wouldn't lose them)
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Hydrotek from Crosscut
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Drawing the nested pieces.
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Nails & PVC for curve batten
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Oldest boy and his buddy inspecting things
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Today saw lot of sawdust. After a late night of drawing the frames & what not on the plywood, we got after it good.

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We got all the pieces cut. It took some courage to make those first cuts, along with some pre-planning on which cuts to make first. The thicker pieces actually seem to go easier than the thin stuff. I had to keep telling myself to take my time and go slow. And a great lesson is to never toss out or burn any scraps over 6 inches of lumber leftover. A few 1x3, 1x4 pieces worked great for spaces to lift the plywood sheets off the floor and support other areas of the sheet. Overall, everything looks good.

Bottom panels
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The amount of dust was amazing and very fine. Very glad we wore particle masks. Both have the telltale markings on them. Also swept and vacuumed up between working on each sheet. Even then, after all picked up, converted the shopvac to a blower and blew out the fine coating that seemed to be on everything. Can’t wait for what sanding will do.

Now I need to stop by Home Depot to pick up some more battens for framing the seat frames. We will try to get those cut first thing tomorrow and spend the morning gluing those and blocks on the side panels and bottom pieces.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 1:40 pm
by JamesT
Looking good! Cant wait to see it take shape!

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 1:51 pm
by NW Trout
Update

Battens picked up and cut to fit frames. Ready for epoxy coat and glueing

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Same for side panels, bottom and butt block. Reference centerline also drawn and panels marked as well to hopefully have everything line up.
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Pieces primed/coated with epoxy and now making glue. I’ve read glue consistency being compared to “ketchup,” to “mayonnaise,” to “peanut butter.” Given fillets consistency is almost always mentioned as peanut butter, I opt’d for thick ketchup.
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Frames and battens glued with light clamping pressure
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Same for panels
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We're using the SystemThree Resin w/medium hardener. It needs minimum 55 degrees to cure/set correctly. With the warmer than normal January and the possibility of this build lasting into spring, it seemed the right choice.

The attached garage was around 58-60 degrees with a small space heater. Carefully moving and covering the pieces with make shift plastic tent and putting a heater in resulted in an air temp of 65 degrees to help insure a good cure.
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After 24 hours, we unclamped and everything was holding solid. We stacked pieces with plastic interleaved between on the moving table, moved it to the back of the double bay. Then it was covered again in the makeshift plastic tent and heater put in to continue to the curing/setting. With the smaller air volume, the temp stayed around 70 degrees now. Letting it sit for another 24 hours and then we start stitching.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 1:39 am
by NW Trout
Bit of a screw up.

After stitching bow and transom on, we set in the mid-seat frames. The front one fit in fine. The back one was loose. Turns out a slight math error left it 7/8 of an inch short. My quick solution was to trace the profile of the frame+battens on a scrap piece of 3/8 ply and two scraps of 1/4 ply. Glue the 3/8 on one end and the two 1/4 plys on the other.

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I'm asking in the section for questions if this is valid. Seems it should work.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 8:03 am
by Cracker Larry
I'm asking in the section for questions if this is valid. Seems it should work.
No problem with that fix, John 8) You're off to a good start.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 2:22 pm
by cape man
I love this picture!!! Too Cool!

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Will be nice to see them at the helm some day!

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 10:30 am
by NW Trout
Redo Day...

As in scrapping off uncured epoxy resin coat - tacky after 2 days in 80+ heated tent in garage. Pulled apart "glued" side plywood bandage strips and "glued" transom seat cleat.

In my rush to fix the problem with the width on the one mid-frame, I was off in my epoxy mix. Tried to do a small batch in a cup and was off on hardner and/or not enough mixing. Oh the joy. Live and learn.

Learned - as in researched issue here and SystemThree site - scrapping & sanding should be adequate since most areas are coating. For the glue areas, I really scrapped and sanded. Then per the instructions from Sys3, worked the new stuff in with short trimmed chip brush to work it/mix it into any uncured resin that may be left on the wood.

Opted for syringes this time for small batch making. Watched my mix times carefully to insure its properly mixed. Re-did the glue ups and this morning after 8 hours in heated 70 degree space, eveything is looking good.

Progressing along fine now. I'm sure a few more hiccups are in the future.

Thanks to those who've posted their slips and solutions in the past. There is a wealth of info here in the forum. Very helpful.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Mon Feb 08, 2010 1:30 pm
by NW Trout
Continuing with the build
Bow and transom stitched and set in the frames temporarily. Not thrilled with some of my cut work on seat tops. Thinking of a few ways to address and dress up what may be some ugly gaps.

I opted not to precut the bow seat and instead start with a cardboard template – seen here with scrap plywood underneath to hold the nails while drawing the edge curve
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In setting the frames in the rear trailing edges of the battens on the bow and transom frame meet the sides first and seem to leave a large gap – too big for just glue – on the front faces of the plywood frames. I knocked down the corners with some passes with a sureform planer. Fit & glue gap seems better now.
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Frames and seat tops set in temporarily. Need to flip and add bottom
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Boat flipped and chines tapped. I left the stitches in on the front and transom. I’ll take the advice of many (CLarry, ks8… ) and tack weld between, let it set, then remove stitches and fillet the whole joint.
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Flipped. Need to check for square, adjust as needed and start gluing frames. Also need to grind a bit on the side butt block panels. They are bit to high and don't meet the top of the seat frames. I was a bit off on the clearance needed for the bottom panels butt block.
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Very much enjoying this project.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 2:07 pm
by quadradomus
Wow!! I need to get busy! You boat looks really good John. I appreciate the photos and details. If there is anything so far that looking back you would say to "Watch out for" please sent me a PM. It looks like you did leave a little gap between the butt blocks on the side panels... and the bottom edge of the side panels. I read from another builder to leave 5/8" to account for the hull butt blocks.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 2:30 pm
by ks8
cape man wrote:I love this picture!!! Too Cool!

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Will be nice to see them at the helm some day!
I'm thinking if the Bateau calendar project ever gets revived, that might be a winner there. Next generation catching the excitement and ease of building your own boat. :)

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 3:07 pm
by NW Trout
quadradomus wrote:Wow!! I need to get busy! You boat looks really good John. I appreciate the photos and details. If there is anything so far that looking back you would say to "Watch out for" please sent me a PM. It looks like you did leave a little gap between the butt blocks on the side panels... and the bottom edge of the side panels. I read from another builder to leave 5/8" to account for the hull butt blocks.
The butt block gap is noted on the plans, I was just off. That old measure twice cut once and then once again

I think I would hold off on cutting the seat tops until the frames are set in place. As I think I mentioned, I was a bit off and the gaps along the sides are bigger than I think they need to be. If I end up finishing the interior bright, I may make some small decorative detail pieces to glue and cover the gap/glue lines.

The other thing would be to follow the advice of others and plan/layout all the work you'll be doing with using epoxy and glue:

- making sure its properly measured and fully mixed;
- coating edges of the side panels, transom and bottom well ahead to stitching to make sure the wood is properly coated;
- having other future steps and glue pieces thought out and ready.

For example, I coated the side panel areas where the bow and transom seat cleats will go & the cleats themselves well in advance. Its fully cured now. I'll hit those lightly with sand paper before gluing the cleats. Otherwise trying to tape or clamp them will be harder if fresh epoxy coat is on the side panels.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 4:43 pm
by NW Trout
Update 2/10/10

We made some small progress last night. Afterward, tented the boat in plastic and heaters as outside garage temps got into the 30’s. This helped with the cure but also caused a slight issue with duct taped seams

Glued in transom seat and support cleats. We plan add center seats supports, seat lid and to section off the sides in watertight compartments with round deck hatches accessible from inside the seat lid.
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Tack welded transom to sides. Notice gap between bottom and sides/transom. Heat in the tent caused duct tape to give a bit. A few clamps when it comes time to fillet will solve that.
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A bit of a recess in the glue line on one side of the bow frame. Will add some to fill it flush later, but its definitely solid.
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Triangular glued sandwich of plys that will be used as a bow eye reinforcement.
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And its approx. location in the bow. We’ll “dam” off the bottom and sides with packing tape and fill the gaps with thick epoxy glue.
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Cutout in rear transom frame for battery wire pass-thru. The wires will be hidden in a conduit using corner wood molding running between the transom and mid-seat, where battery will be located.
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Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 7:44 pm
by quadradomus
Great work and photos John. I am sort of stuck here in that I am concerned about mixing epoxy/hardner with the temps. in the garage. I am using System 3 products. It appears that they sent me the #2 product. It needs a minimum temp. of 55 deg. F.
to cure. The garage is staying around 52 deg. I bought some heaters, but I can't seriously leave them on all night, that doesn't feel safe. I think your tent building idea was good, but still not sure about leaving heaters on.

Question: I am wondering if the battens have made a problem for the mid-seat top to cover the frames completely. If the mid seat frames are put against the side panel butt blocks, the battens are on the inside of course of the frames.... does the dimension of the seat top take into account that the battens on the both mide seat frames have now made the seat a greater length forward - aft, (Of course you have to use the battens I realize... but there isn't anything I can find regarding how thick of wood to use for the battens. This would seem to affect a nice fit for the seat top? I used 1x3 firring strips.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 9:51 pm
by NW Trout
quadradomus wrote:Great work and photos John. I am sort of stuck here in that I am concerned about mixing epoxy/hardner with the temps. in the garage. I am using System 3 products. It appears that they sent me the #2 product. It needs a minimum temp. of 55 deg. F.
to cure. The garage is staying around 52 deg. I bought some heaters, but I can't seriously leave them on all night, that doesn't feel safe. I think your tent building idea was good, but still not sure about leaving heaters on.
Concrete doesn't burn :) I had two small ceramic style heaters and had both on all night. I'm using the #2 medium hardner as well. I keep the epoxy jugs in a semi-heated file cabinet - sort of an easybake oven with a 40/60 watt light bulb. The other option is to keep the epoxy inside at house temps. This should help.
quadradomus wrote: Question: I am wondering if the battens have made a problem for the mid-seat top to cover the frames completely. If the mid seat frames are put against the side panel butt blocks, the battens are on the inside of course of the frames.... does the dimension of the seat top take into account that the battens on the both mide seat frames have now made the seat a greater length forward - aft, (Of course you have to use the battens I realize... but there isn't anything I can find regarding how thick of wood to use for the battens. This would seem to affect a nice fit for the seat top? I used 1x3 firring strips.
I used 1x2 (actually 3/4 by 1 1/2) firring strips. The previously cut seat top fits. However, next time, next build, I'll cut the seat tops after the frames are set just to be sure.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 1:11 am
by ks8
NW Trout wrote:Concrete doesn't burn :)
.. unless you put it at the focal point of a 8x8 foot fresnel lense out in the sun for a few hours, and watch it turn into molten lava. :P But that would be a bit too hot to properly cure the epoxy... I think... :lol:

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 10:30 am
by NW Trout
NW Trout wrote: Tack welded transom to sides. Notice gap between bottom and sides/transom. Heat in the tent caused duct tape to give a bit. A few clamps when it comes time to fillet will solve that.
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Rats! What I needed to notice is the side cleat blocks are glued at the top level of the seat and not the bottom level - 3/8 inch lower - like the rear seat cleat. A bit of work with a RotoZip and RO sander last night. Oh the joy. Live and learn.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 11:51 am
by JamesT
Question: I am wondering if the battens have made a problem for the mid-seat top to cover the frames completely. If the mid seat frames are put against the side panel butt blocks, the battens are on the inside of course of the frames.... does the dimension of the seat top take into account that the battens on the both mide seat frames have now made the seat a greater length forward - aft, (Of course you have to use the battens I realize... but there isn't anything I can find regarding how thick of wood to use for the battens. This would seem to affect a nice fit for the seat top? I used 1x3 firring strips.
If i remember correctly, it states on the planes to leave gap between the edge the batten and the endge of the seat frame to leave room for the side butt blocks, that way your not extending the width of the seat top....i gather that was what you were asking. As, NW stated, i believe it is a good idea to cut the seat tops after the frames are in, that way you can compensate for any cutting errors that were made earlier.


NW Trout, great looking work!

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 6:28 pm
by NW Trout
Valentine’s Day Update – Yep. The Mrs. let me and Boy 1.0 spend some time on the boat.

Friday we removed front mid-frame, measured and cut for deck hatches. The mid-seat will be compartmentalized with two side water-tight sections and the middle accessible via seat-top hatch. The middle will house the battery when the trolling motor is used.
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Then we glued the frames in place. Let them sit for a day and all is good.

Here is a detail of the rear mid-frame and plys added to account for measurement screwup. Ugly, but they will be covered with ¼ plywood as shown in the 2nd pic
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Edge will be routed/rounded over as well.
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Today was the day to try our hands at fillet'ing and glassing.

Fiberglass tape precut and ready to go.
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Epoxy version of a Black&Tan???
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Bow stem fillet’d and taped.
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Matthew wetting out fiberglass tape along the bow section chines.
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Transom box edges glassed and an attempt at a “poor man’s peel ply” on the rear edges that will be above the seat tops. Hopefully this will help in keeping things smooth & bright later.
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We opt'd to do the interior boxes first to get a bit of experience of using the fiberglass. One thing we noted is the apparent shrinkage of the tape once cut. Not a lot but noticeable. Is this normal?

We'll try to get to the foot well chines later today or tomorrow. I'm interested to see how the peel ply does as I'm counting on it to make the foot well chines smooth.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 2:24 am
by ks8
One thing we noted is the apparent shrinkage of the tape once cut. Not a lot but noticeable. Is this normal?
Biax tape has no limiting stitching along the side, in the manner in which woven tape is limited by its stitching, so biax can stretch wider or longer, but typically not both. If you stretch it out when measuring it (making it more narrow also), it may shrink back a bit after the cut (and regain its non stretched width). I always try to make sure there is no tension on the laid out biax tape when I measure it before cutting, rather than pulling on it while measuring and cutting. It still might *shorten* with my method, but you can stretch it a little in laying it out on the fillet also.

In short... yep... biax tape can do that... which partly helps it take some curves much better than equivalent weight woven tape. :)

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 12:32 pm
by NW Trout
Thanks ks8.

The explanation makes perfect sense.

Peel Ply - worked very very well on the upper transom side area. I need to improve my rolling technique but the 3mil plastic sheeting really made it scary smooth - no glass weave whatsoever.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 7:24 pm
by bondo
Fisheries' Supply, North lk. Union has everything except plywood. Expensive though. Fiberlay, South Seattle, East Marginal has fiberglass supplies. Home Builders' Center, Nickerson St. has marine ply. Meranti, Okume. They will sell you partial sheets. I've gotten most of my ply. from Crosscut Hardwoods also. Looks like it's going great, good luck.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 1:30 pm
by quadradomus
Looking great... more photos please :D :D

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 10:51 pm
by NW Trout
Not a lot of positive progress to report, but haven't done much the last week or so. No pics today.

Interior Foot well chines fillet'd and taped. The Poor Man's Peel ply didn't work as well as I hoped. A few too many air bubbles, voids and wrinkle impressions from the folds. Going to spend some time sanding those spots down and recoating. Rats!

Spent a bit of time today cutting furring/batten pieces to build out the seat compartments. I am about 16 inches short of the furring strips needed to complete what I need, so stopped there until a visit to local big box depot for more, along with 4 or 6 AWG wire for the battery cable run.

Also will likely be about 12 feet short of 1/4 plywood needed for the 3-layer rub rail. Internal debate now is to use inexpensive exterior plywood or luan for the inner layers of the rub rail where they'll be hidden, or head to downtown Seattle to Crosscut or Home Builders for proper Okume or Meranti. I likely opt for the better marine grade. We want this done as best we can.

That is all. Over and out.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 10:28 pm
by Arawak
You don't have to use scrap plywood for the rub rail. I got my dad to rip and thickness white ash to 8' strips in the same size as the plywood (6mm IIRC), and laminated those up... it came out looking quite nice and very stiff.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 2:31 pm
by NW Trout
Update 3/1/2010


Internal seat compartments framed & ready for epoxy glue
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Frame detail showing rabbit needed to adjust for floor butt block thickness.
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Rotozip with circle attachment makes quick work for deck hatch cut outs
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Rear interior compartment pieces set in place. Hope is side compartments will be watertight but still accessible from interior of seat.
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PVC conduit set in place to allow electric motor wire to run thru compartments and to center seat battery well.
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Bow eye located and drilled.
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Challenge will be reaching into bow seat to tighten down.
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Seat top hatches have been cut in the transom and mid seats. Undersides of all seats and internal seat spaces have one coat of epoxy on all surfaces now. Need to pick up seat hinges, cut for flush mounting and then seats can be glued in.

Rethinking the brightwork ideas a bit. I think using it for accents helps make it pop more.

Also a neighbor - a guy who has built 5 or so boats in his life (plywood, cedar strip,e tc) cautioned to build it durable for the kid use. Thinking about strake material and numbers of strakes to help protect it during the inevitable beaching. Or going with adding cloth on the bottom.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 12:51 am
by quadradomus
John, nice photos. What exactly are the panels with the circle holes cut in them for? I realize you battery is going in the center of the seat box, and the wiring will go out the pvc.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 10:59 am
by NW Trout
Chris

The rear seat will have access into the side compartments via 4 inch round deck hatches hidden inside the seat. The center seat will have 6 inch exterior deck hatches in the front foot well.

My thinking - based on advice from others - is this makes water-tight compartments plus allows for both for inspection for any issues (water, damage) and additional storage (small jackets, water bottles).

If I could wind the clock back, I'd have put the wire conduit and runs between seats along the chine. Next boat :)

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 6:31 pm
by NW Trout
Took Bondo's tip and stopped by Home Builder's Center. Picked up a half sheet of 1/4 meranti 2ftx8ft. Plenty for nice long rub rail pieces. And checked out their pieces of ply wood left over for selling half sheets and what not. A few nice boards in there would serve well for breasthooks, knees and other items. Something to keep in mind.

Also a stop by Fisheries Supply for a few items - QuickFair, hinges, foam rollers.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 12:17 am
by quadradomus
"And checked out their pieces of ply wood left over for selling half sheets and what not. A few nice boards in there would serve well for breasthooks, knees and other items. Something to keep in mind."

Hey now... I'm on your tail with this project, I might beat you to those wood scraps. :D (just kidding)

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 2:28 pm
by NW Trout
It’s been a week or so, here’s what’s been cooking in garage

Hinge work. Next time I’ll opt for flush, SQUARE hinges. Still, traced the hinge on scrap plywood. Cut out with a coping saw, added plywood to built to proper height for router morticeing bit with a guide bearing. A bit of chisel work to cut the area for the hinge barrel.
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Transom and mid-seat glued in, clamped, weighted
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Temp rip fence added to circular saw for rub rails
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Rub rails cut and roller primed
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Inwales (sp?) glued and clamped
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I think it’s a rule that any rub rail work needs the PVC clamp work photo documented
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Results so far
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Next up is glue/tape transom and mid-seat, flip and start on the bottom work.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 5:26 pm
by NW Trout
Nothing exciting enough to warrant photos.

Glassed the transom and mid-seat tops in. Cured and flipped. Sunday was nice enough to sand outside. Hit all the edges and rounded most over nicely. A few had larger than expected gaps where the internal fillets didn't fill in all the way. Wetted them out with epoxy and then went to work with wood flour thickened epoxy to fill and touched up/smoothed over with putty knief. Setting up now. I'll come back at them tomorrow and sand in prep for glassing the chines, bow and transom exterior.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 11:18 pm
by NW Trout
Latest updates

laying out tape for chines and seams
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Wetting out the glass
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Getting child labor involved
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After attaching skeg and front strakes for protection
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Light sanding to knock down high spots in epoxy prior to fairing
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Mixing QuikFair by weight - 100 parts to 44 parts, 50 to 22, 25 to 11 which is just about what this is. Grams was changing back and forth from 35 to 36.
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filling the weave and fairing the edges
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After the first pass of QuikFair and light 80 girt sanding.
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Second pass with QuickFair is on and will likely do a third to make things nice and smooth.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 1:13 am
by quadradomus
Smooth as a babie's B- hind. :oops:

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Sun May 02, 2010 9:40 pm
by NW Trout
Update:

Sanded the 2nd pass of Quick fair.

Recoated entire exterior with epoxy to seal QuikFair and bare wood exposed by sanding

Light sanding pass with boards with 80 grit, 1 coat of primer SilverTip Primer. Waited 10 hours or so and hit it with a second as I really needed the high build properites. Waited 3 days.

Sanded again - 80 grit. A bit more QuikFair since not happy with my first attempt to smooth things out. (Told myself I wouldn't stress with the bottom - work boat appearance - but I am) 5 hours later a light sand with 100 grit. Sides look good though.

Another primer coat. Waited another 3 days. Better but still some areas to touch up. More QuikFair and another sanding with 100 grit.

Another overall primer coat. Couple days later, a bit more sanding in some areas, followed by what I'm calling last primer coat, currently curing in the garage.

Now the decision is what to top the primer with - both paint brand and color. I will ikely will go with S3 WR-LPU Orcas White or Whidbey White for main parts and Shaw Blue for accents/boot stripe, plus clear coat for bright work on rub rail, seat top hatches, knees and breast hook.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Mon May 03, 2010 6:45 pm
by Biker B.O.B.
Nice work. The paint scheme sounds good too. The orcas white would give the classis white and blue combo.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Mon May 31, 2010 3:40 pm
by NW Trout
Latest update.

Let the SilverTip primer more than fully cure - something like 3+ weeks - while focusing on family visits and other duties.

Got back to it this weekend. The plus side to our typical spring weather here in the NW is the temps are fairly steady in the garage at 60 degrees and humidity is around 80-85%. The System Three WR-LPU Orcas White went on fine with no dilution on a test board.

I was able to roll and tip two coats uncrosslinked down on Saturday, followed by a light sand and then 2 coats of crosslinked paint down on Sunday. All coats were undiluted and flowed out well.

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Smooth and glossy enough for my liking. Feels very tough too. I plan to do another light sand with 320 and put down one more coat and call it good.

How long after a final coat should I wait before flipping the hull to get back to the interior work?

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Mon May 31, 2010 6:23 pm
by cape man
Nice paint job. All your prep paid off! Unless you are in a hurry, I'd let it sit till next weekend before flipping it.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 11:03 pm
by NW Trout
Oh.. and for other FL12 builders information regarding paint amounts:

For the exterior of the hull painting, it took about 6 oz per coat of the S3 WR-LPU, undiluted, using the roll-and-tip method. Used a West foam roller and cheap foam brush to tip and applied using the pour method shown in the BoatBuilderCentral YouTube clip.

As mentioned did a total of 5 coats over S3 primer. Looks very nice IMHO.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Fri Jun 04, 2010 1:52 am
by quadradomus
I am thinking somewhere before you said you were going to leave the interior "Bright" I am hoping you did just that. I would like to leave my interior natural also. Can't wait til you flip that thing over and post some detailed pics. :D

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Sat Jun 05, 2010 10:44 pm
by NW Trout
Quad
After further reflection, parts will be bright, but most will be painted. This is the first one and things I'm learning on this build will translate into the next build - likely a drift boat.

Great spring day in Seattle, so finished up the sanding/grinding/brushing rust and old of the craig's list trailer find. Not perfect but close enough. Rustoleum brown heavy rust primer to seal it tight and then flat black enamel. Need to pick up some new nuts & bolts to reattach bunks, fenders and other. Might get the new light kit on this evening or tomorrow morning.

Added plush shaggy carpet to the dolly's bunks in prep for flipping. Temps around 70° and humidity between 75% and 80%. Might push it out until Tuesday evening to give the hull coat a full week of cure time before flipping.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 12:04 am
by Larry B
Thats some nice clean work there. Boat is looking great. You'll be proud to go out in her, I know I would :D

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 12:07 am
by bondo
Really looking good!

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 12:18 am
by gstanfield
Looks great. I build the FL14 with the intent to use it as a small lake boat and drift boat on the north Platte river. When you build the drift boat, be sure to show us some pics of it, I'm sure it will turn out very nice as well.

George

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 9:21 am
by cape man
to give the hull coat a full week of cure time before flipping.
Good choice.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 12:55 pm
by NW Trout
Latest updates.

Waited 8 days before flipping the hull. Went easy since its light and the neighbor's college boy is healthy!


Working up / drawing out ideas for breasthook. Its' a 1/4 ply glued to a 3/8 ply. Same for the knees
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Breasthook cut out.
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Glue and clamping wood corner molding. It works as the wire conduit between the transom and mid-seat.
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Taking advantage of a rare 70+ degree day to speed the cure of wire conduit gluing and overall coat of epoxy on remaining interior raw wood.
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Matthew priming the bow compartment prior to gluing seat top.
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Bow seat primed and ready for gluing.
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Completed conduit. Turned out well IMHO.
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First pass on quikfair and sanding. Unfaired spots in foot wells will be done with no-slip texture to help hide my cheapness. :wink: Did one more, sanded and currently has two coats of primer on. Now I can see my misses and pinholes. Will hit that with more QF and primer again later.
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And I think we've finally settled on a name. Play on old family name from Mom's side of the tree. And Matthew would have been called Ketch if I was closer on my guess for his birth weight.
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Hope to get last bit of primer on today and then spend Father's Day starting roll-n-tip.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 4:04 pm
by cape man
Man you are working quickly now! Looking sharp...looking sharp. Love the conduits.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 5:16 pm
by gstanfield
Looking good, nice application of child labor :wink:

Re: FL12 - NW Trout

Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 3:55 pm
by NW Trout
Well.. outside of a bit of touch up here and there... We're calling Ketch'Em done.
I'm pleased with how the boat turned out. I know all the flaws, drips, runs, etc of it and I'm okay with it. I'll likely do some touch up to fix one or two things but I've learned alot that hopefully will be put to use on the next boat project

Side shot with S3's Shaw Blue strip.
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Bow detail (a bit of 3m 5200 sealant showing under the cleat).
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Bow eye is a bit lower than I like. Sealed it well. May redo next winter.
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Rear seat detail. Thru-hull is used to allow pass thru of MinnKota QuickConnect.
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Mid seat showing other end of battery wires, battery tie down and another mistake. In recessing the hinges in the seat lid, the screws protrude thru the remain thickness of the plywood. I'll like epoxy some small pads and cut out the frame battens for clearance next fall.
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Oar pad and lock detail.
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Need to rework the name design for the decal. Lines are a bit too fine for cut vinyl.
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Bird's eye view
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The builders: Brian (lead inspector), John (laborer), Matthew (lead assistant)
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Thanks to Jacque, Shine and all those at Bateau for their insight, design, comments, etc.

Thanks to all the forum members for sharing their builds, successes, fails, opinions, suggestions, positive comments and encouragement.

thanks... now... onto making bunks for the trailer and hoping to get this splashed Friday or Saturday.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - Done!

Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 4:52 pm
by sitandfish
Great looking! Love the blue stripe next to the bright work rail. Nicely detailed. Now... get to fishing. :wink:
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Re: FL12 - NW Trout - Done!

Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 12:21 am
by ks8
Really looks good! :)

Cut vinyl for the name... then paint the rest... very carefully. You might even be able to screen on the rest, but I don't know how well the textile ink/paint would grip the topcoat paint. Is that all S3 LPU?

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - Done!

Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 3:29 pm
by Lower
WOW...Beautifully done! She really did come out nice. Look forward to seeing some action shots. Congrats on a great build.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - Done!

Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 5:29 pm
by Cracker Larry
Sweet 8) That's a pretty boat!!

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - Done!

Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 9:51 pm
by Joe H
Looks like a piece of art sitting up on a pedestal, very nice, and you have one heck of a boat building crew there!

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - Done!

Posted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 10:28 am
by quadradomus
Amazing work you all did John. You did a great job of documenting all of the work with your photos. As you know yourself... this really helps other builders with ideas and motivation,insight to a tuff spot etc.
Please let us know (even with pics maybe) how your maiden voyage goes. I am curious what you go with for a trailer, and also how heavy the final boat is. You probably haven't weighed it exactly, but I wonder how easily you and a buddy can lift it and move it around?

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - Done!

Posted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 10:55 am
by gstanfield
Looks good for sure, a lot nicer than my FL14. I did manage to splash my FL this weekend and the trailer bunks we talked about worked out perfectly.

Looking foward to your splash pictures,
George

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - Done!

Posted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 12:12 pm
by NW Trout
S&F, ks8, Lower, Larry, Joe, Chris, George
Thanks for the positive comments.

George
I copied your bunk build almost verbatim. It cradles the boat perfectly. Why the idea of copy the skeg build for bunks never occured to me I don't know. Great thing about this site is the sharing of ideas and suggestions. The only thing I might need to do is adjust the position of the bunks relative to the trailer to balance the boat/tongue weight better.

I plan to splash it later today but it might have to wait until Monday. I'd like it to taste fresh water before going to the salt and some sheltered shores lines for some recreational crabbing on Tuesday.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - Done!

Posted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 1:05 pm
by gstanfield
Well I'm flattered. I hope the bunks work for you as good as they did for me. I ended up letting mine hinge at the back and was able to unload and load the trailer in water so shallow the bunks were 4-6" above water level and it still went on and off easily. I really look foward to seeing you splash yours, you really spent some time making things look nice on that boat.

I also think you have a good idea to test it out in smaller waters first. That's why I went to a private pond on my friend's ranch, no pressure from onlookers and no conditions that may be unfavorable for a first time out.

Goood luck on the splash, can't wait for pictures,
George

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - Done!

Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 2:28 am
by bondo
Very attractive. Perfect balance of finishes. I wish I could do that.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - SPLASHED!

Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 12:59 am
by NW Trout
Not a lot to add, other than to say it floats, it's great and looking forward to many hours, days, weeks, and years enjoying this.


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Again, thanks to all for your insight, comments and encouragement.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - ***SPLASHED***

Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 2:02 am
by quadradomus
Ah!! The Kenmore launch.. now how many people from this site can say they know that one!? Looks good on the water. It must have been just a "Little" hard to see it get dirty. :D

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - ***SPLASHED***

Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 9:46 am
by Joe H
Looks like a fantastic day for a boat ride, congrads, enjoy it now because those boy's are going to want you to build something bigger a faster real soon! :lol:
Joe

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - ***SPLASHED***

Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 1:07 pm
by gstanfield
Very nice and a great crew you have there. That's a nice scenic piece of water there too, kinda makes me jealous :D

Good job, now the next question is: Have you decided on your next boat yet? :D

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - ***SPLASHED***

Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 1:44 pm
by ks8
Man... I really like the look of that trim against the bright rail. :D Beautiful FL12. :)

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - ***SPLASHED***

Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 3:05 pm
by TomW
those boy's are going to want you to build something bigger a faster real soon! :lol:
now the next question is: Have you decided on your next boat yet?


Yep I'd say a little bigger boat might be in the offing especially looking at the stern down trim in that one picture! :lol: Great job on the boat she sure is a pretty one! :D

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - ***SPLASHED***

Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 5:20 pm
by NW Trout
Ketch'Em got a taste of salt and christened with crab this past week.
This is in Puget Sound and in particular Saratoga Passage off Cama Beach on Camano Island (the home of the Barefoot Bandit):

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Center for Wooden Boats has a boat livery at Cama Beach State Park. We got a lot of nice compliments from folks on the boat. A few Dads now are thinking of doing the same with their boys.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - ***SPLASHED***

Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 11:21 pm
by PJPiercey
Hey John,

Nice job on the Fl12. I'll keep an eye out for you when I'm chasing trout with my V12 :D

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - ***SPLASHED***

Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 3:11 pm
by Lower
Love the pictures John! I actually spent about a year on Whidby Island years ago doing some post graduate work. What a beautiful part of the country! I really enjoyed my time out there.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - ***SPLASHED***

Posted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 3:51 pm
by NW Trout
Went out Saturday morning for a little recon on the north end of Lake Washington. In search of rumored coho brats making their way back to the Issaquah hatchery. 3 hours on the water and not one tug.

A few perchers were doing well. Might try that tomorrow morning.

Did get a treat with seven some planes taking off from Kenmore Air's floatplane base - four of them almost all at once. Makes me want check into that Alaska salmon trip again.

Heading out of the Sammamish River to the north end of the lake.
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Hopeful 11 year old
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300lbs of people (he's about 1/3 of it), battery, smaller cooler and 55lb thurst Minnkota = Ketch'Em hit a top speed of 3.9 miles per according to GPS.
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One of the planes that buzzed over head on dawn patrol
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Re: FL12 - NW Trout - ***SPLASHED***

Posted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 4:14 pm
by NW Trout
Oh, and yes.... we do sometimes get blue skies in Seattle in Sept.... just don't tell anyone.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - ***SPLASHED***

Posted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 4:32 pm
by sitandfish
That's the picture you want to see. :wink:
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Re: FL12 - NW Trout - ***SPLASHED***

Posted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 8:09 pm
by gstanfield
Very nice NW, glad to see you're out enjoying the boat with your family :D

George

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - ***SPLASHED***

Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 2:34 pm
by NW Trout
A nice piece added to the kit recently is a Hummingbird Fishin' Buddy.

Decent all in one rig suitable for small boats, float tubes and pontoon/catarafts.

Opt'd for the one with side-scan capabilities. Helped us dial in some schools of perch two weekends ago and brought a couple of dozen home to eat. A bit boney but nice pan frying fish.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - ***SPLASHED***

Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 5:23 pm
by gstanfield
Cool, glad to see you're enjoying your FL. Mine may have one or two more trips before the water freezes up then she sits until spring thaw :cry:

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - ***SPLASHED***

Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 5:57 pm
by kdog
Great job on the boat, love the finish work! Nice pics too. 8)

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - ***SPLASHED***

Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 1:11 pm
by NW Trout
Still enjoying the boat

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Crabbing for Dungies on Saratoga Passage. About a 40 degree difference between this year and last.... 2010 was high 90s - low 100.... This year mid 50s - low 60s.


Crabbing catch rate was just as good and enjoyable (despite wind, rain and temps)
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Next up... Pink Salmon are starting their move into Puget Sound

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - ***SPLASHED***

Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 6:52 pm
by quadradomus
I recognize the cabins at Camas? Nice to see the update. It is pretty cool to see you are able/comfortable taking the Fl 12 off of the Camas beach, and with two crab pots to boot! I guess if you go on a glass water day and keep a reasonable distance, you'd be OK. I spend a lot of time in the Sound on a 14' deep hull Lund, and it can get dicey sometimes.

Boat looks great. :D

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - ***SPLASHED***

Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 7:43 pm
by NW Trout
quadradomus wrote:I recognize the cabins at Camas? Nice to see the update. It is pretty cool to see you are able/comfortable taking the Fl 12 off of the Camas beach, and with two crab pots to boot! I guess if you go on a glass water day and keep a reasonable distance, you'd be OK. I spend a lot of time in the Sound on a 14' deep hull Lund, and it can get dicey sometimes.

Boat looks great. :D

Yep. Camas Beach. And later the weather got not so great. Rain and 2-3 foot swells. Worked to keep the bow pointed into the waves and did okay. Barely got splashed but a fair amount of slapping on the bottom.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - ***SPLASHED***

Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:02 pm
by NW Trout
Still going, still plying the calm waters of Puget Sound.... this time under the power of 13-yr-old boys, in hopes of some returning salmon...

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However only a dogfish was caught. Along with the normal, but smaller crab pot haul.

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Next stop, local lakes for perch and crawdads.

Re: FL12 - NW Trout - ***SPLASHED***

Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 11:12 pm
by Mad Dog
Looks like some good times there. Thanks for sharing! :D

MD :wink: