Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Posted: **Tue Aug 31, 2010 1:59 pm**

hello all,

now I wont feel guilty for attending the annual boat meets anymore...

its official i've started my V10

using bs1088 Meranti,

already had a few snapfu's which is to be expected

one of my butt joints slid apart on one edge. had to chisel off the plywood and sand down to the orig ply.

got the front bow section together within 1/8" even with the Meranti.

learned that you need to do the bottom panels first and from the bow to stern (used a few hundred zip ties) on and off ...etc.

well enough of the talk here is the boat porn ( yes I used a lot of ties )

Posted: **Tue Aug 31, 2010 2:33 pm**

Ahhh, that is nice BS1088.

Making me hungry....

Posted: **Tue Aug 31, 2010 3:39 pm**

Looks real good Bradley, but I think you need some more cable ties

Posted: **Tue Aug 31, 2010 4:58 pm**

Nice cuts on the panles too, very fair

Needs more zip ties though

Posted: **Tue Aug 31, 2010 6:15 pm**

Looks good to me. At that stage, I had way more used zip ties on the floor than on the boat.

Posted: **Tue Aug 31, 2010 6:19 pm**

Looking good! I'm not sure if anyone asked, but is there a reason you went so sparingly with the cable ties? I'd have used more if I were you, just to be on the safe side

George

Posted: **Tue Aug 31, 2010 9:26 pm**

Yes there is a reason

Picture to follow

Just another day

Posted: **Tue Aug 31, 2010 10:08 pm**

Doc_Dyer wrote:Yes there is a reason

Picture to follow

Just another day

I already looked at your picture gallery. I understand.

Posted: **Tue Aug 31, 2010 10:14 pm**

ok,

you wanted to know why so many zip ties

Meranti is a little stiffer than Okoume.

this is some serious wood torture

I was filling the last of my drill holes with ezfilet on the transom when I hear

BANG

Posted: **Tue Aug 31, 2010 10:16 pm**

ohh well just another day of zipping... hope I have enough ties

Bradley

Posted: **Tue Aug 31, 2010 10:24 pm**

Dang it man, that sucks

You do know we were all just kidding with you in fun right?

FWIW, I had the same issue using my cheap exterior wood on my FL14. I also thought I would be smart and save some money on zip ties and buy a bag of cheap ones instead of using my "good" ones. Well it was about 20degrees F in the shop when I stitched it. I then turned on the heater and went back inside for a couple hours. When I came back to the shop I had plywood on the ground and broken ties everywhere. Luckily I had not put any glue on it yet

I wasn't going to tell anyone about that, but didn't want you to feel alone so there you go, you're not the only one to have issues wth tie breakage

Looks good now though

Posted: **Tue Aug 31, 2010 10:30 pm**

no worries about the kidding... I have VERY thick skin... one must when one jabs as much as I do

yea it sucks, but it is not the end of the world or the end of this boat...

got to go to dance lessons for my wedding in 2 weeks...

but must make SWMBO happy...

thursday I will clean her up a little and rezip her.. this time put some fillet on the interior of the bow.
I plan on making a sailing version so the whole bow will be filled with foam and enclosed

Bradley

edit: well the rest of the boat looks great and is holding fine

Posted: **Tue Aug 31, 2010 11:34 pm**

If you can, try to pull the panels as close to being in place as you can while you wait for Thursday. That will make them easier to pull into final position when you get back to it.

Posted: **Wed Sep 01, 2010 2:28 am**

I had to *train* my Doug Fir panels for two weeks with humidty and jigs and weights, before they would make the bends to the bow transom and stay put without ripping stove wire out through the drilled holes. There's four wrappings still in there under all the glass and goo. I just think of them as permanent internal stitches. There's also around 4 layers overlapped in those areas now, and that's just on the outside. If something fails, that won't be it.

Posted: **Wed Sep 01, 2010 6:34 am**

got to go to dance lessons for my wedding in 2 weeks...

I think you said "dance lessons" and your boat puked

. HA HA HA HA ...

I woud put a few fiberglass strips to along with the fillets just for a little extra peace of mind. Let me know if you need help.

Andrew

Posted: **Wed Sep 01, 2010 11:43 am**

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage ... 985&pos=12

That's how mine looked like - 5 mm Okoume plywood for the hull panels, wetted them with water and used copper wires. Well, mine is a V-12 and the bending is not so severe

But you will manage to get it in shape, just keep trying

Alex

Posted: **Wed Sep 01, 2010 1:11 pm**

BANG

Dangit man. I think I'd cut a short piece of 2X4 to match the stem angle from the inside, and shoot a couple of drywall screws in it.

Posted: **Wed Sep 01, 2010 1:26 pm**

II like CL's idea, maybe using flathead screws with fender washers, so they don't pull through the plywood under the strain. Since I'm planning a V12 or C12, I've got to remember this myself.

Posted: **Wed Sep 01, 2010 2:05 pm**

ill try my arms first, if that doesn't work, then I'll try
CL's fix with the wood backing. but if I get it in place then I will glass the front with some temp glass strips

Posted: **Wed Sep 01, 2010 3:41 pm**

wow, that's a surprise. A bow mold would help, we used one on the FS12 which was 6mm mernati. I was looking for a picture of it, bu the only one I found was this, you can barely see it up there in the bow

We attached it to a scrap 2x4 screwed to the first mold/frame.

http://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/userp ... 02%7E0.jpg

You can also use some copper wire, which is more the old school way of doing it

Posted: **Wed Sep 01, 2010 9:00 pm**

You can see from this picture that I didn't get the gap totally closed on mine.

There was maybe a ¼" gap where the 4 panels met.

After a couple of tries, I finally figured out what was going on when the plywood is bending in one plane and twisting in another. I could get the centerline stitches to work OK, but the chine just refused to cooperate when I tried to pull the stitches tight.
I finally made it fall in place with temp cleats on the inside pulled with only one screw on each. That worked to pull the bottom panels in while applying equal force pulling the side panels out.

Tightening the chine stitches at the bow tended to pull the panels into an overlap before the panel edges met. Using the cleat and screw method, I could apply the twisting force without pulling the seam closed.

Posted: **Wed Sep 01, 2010 11:31 pm**

this is what I got done tonight, after dance lessons

this was without help, will try again tomorrow after work with a strong helper

Posted: **Wed Sep 01, 2010 11:35 pm**

this is using aircraft saftey wire, doubled and in one joint 4 wires thick to help prevent wood pull through

one more day

and I will have it back like it should be

Bradley

Posted: **Thu Sep 02, 2010 12:05 am**

Doc_Dyer wrote:this is what I got done tonight, after dance lessons

this was without help, will try again tomorrow after work with a strong helper

Congratulations on kicking off your build

Best wishes with your wedding as well. You are doing pretty good since you hit 52...

Posted: **Thu Sep 02, 2010 12:08 am**

Aripeka Angler wrote: Congratulations on kicking off your build Best wishes with your wedding as well.

You are doing pretty good since you hit 52...

thanks, its been a rough start but I will prevail

for those who don't know.. the 52 is an inside joke

i'm only 41

Bradley

Posted: **Thu Sep 02, 2010 12:42 am**

Now I won't be able to sleep, or will get chased by a big 52 in my dreams.

score on the back nine?

the buoy you hit?

I will not think about 52 ... I will not think about 52 ... .... 52 ... 52 ..........

Posted: **Thu Sep 02, 2010 12:05 pm**

ok I think you have waited long enough

last fishing trip with Richard and Larry me and Sonner were driving down I-75 and got off the interstate onto hwy 52 so I texted Richard and told him that I was hitting 52. he replied that he didnt know it was my birthday

it took me and Sonner about 5 min to figure out what in the hell Richard was talking about?

so now you can get some sleep

Posted: **Thu Sep 02, 2010 12:50 pm**

Except its a little after noon. Can I save the sleep for later? Though, that never seems to work, does it?

Posted: **Sat Sep 04, 2010 3:58 pm**

got some done on her yesterday and today

boat porn

question

plans show to cut front bulkhead to top of sheer line. see following pictures
can I cut a large radius on bulkhead and make front curved?
I believe that the sheer line is NOT where it is pointed to on the plans

Posted: **Sat Sep 04, 2010 5:11 pm**

Look'en good!! You've got a boat.

I guess the bow came together all right?

Posted: **Sat Sep 04, 2010 6:01 pm**

It might be too late, but I usually wrap a ratchet strap around the bow to pull it tight. Clamp a small block of wood on the outside of each gunwale, a foot or so behind the bow, so the strap won't slip, and crank her into a position of submission

Posted: **Sat Sep 04, 2010 8:34 pm**

I'm not sure, since I don't have those plans, but I think what it means by flush with top of sheer line, is that instead of the curve top of the frame there, the sailing version has a straight top across. Maybe this is because of the way the mast partner will mate to it? Gary built one (gk108). Maybe he will jump in here with some clarification.

Posted: **Sun Sep 05, 2010 1:17 am**

ks8 wrote:I'm not sure, since I don't have those plans, but I think what it means by flush with top of sheer line, is that instead of the curve top of the frame there, the sailing version has a straight top across. Maybe this is because of the way the mast partner will mate to it? Gary built one (gk108). Maybe he will jump in here with some clarification.

Yes I know it is to be flush with the sheer, i'm asking about veering from the plans and make front deck curved

The mast partner will be aft of the bulkhead

Bradley

Posted: **Sun Sep 05, 2010 9:08 am**

Looking good! Two things about the front deck and frame...That's a small triangle of plywood and it will be difficult to bend too much of a radius in the deck, unless you are planning on strip planking it. The other thing is that the mast may need to be longer to give you the same amount of length below the sail so that you can still bend it on and tighten the luff without running out of room.

Posted: **Sun Sep 05, 2010 10:51 am**

gk108 wrote: length below the sail so that you can still bend it on and tighten the luff without running out of room.

Posted: **Sun Sep 05, 2010 11:13 am**

Assuming you will be making a mast partner to match the camber of the deck, the mast needs to be lengthened by the amount of the camber. That way, your sail still fits the mast and you have room below the tack to rig a downhaul. If you go for a rotating mast (highly recommended), you'll want to cleat the snotter on the mast. That's also a place where you will probably want a fairlead for the brailing line. It gets crowded right in that part of the mast, something I didn't compensate enough for when changing my rig to leg o mutton, with it's longer luff. The new CF mast will be 3" or 4" longer to correct that.

Posted: **Sun Sep 05, 2010 12:59 pm**

Drawing or picture

Not a sailor help with terminology

The mast partner is a piece of 3/8" flat plywood from rubrail to rubrail
The mast partner is flush with the sheer.....behind the front bulkhead
The mast center is 3" behind the bulkhead

So unless the sail is past 90 degrees it will not hit the curved bow deck

how often is sail forward of 90 degrees....I would think on a downwind run

Bradley

Edit: I was thinking 1/4" with 4oz glass for foredeck

Posted: **Sun Sep 05, 2010 6:37 pm**

I don't seem to have any good pictures of that part of my boat.

If you go with the mast partner as drawn, there shouldn't be any trouble. For some reason, I was picturing a nice steam bent arcing partner, similar to what I've seen on certain drift boats.

You are right, the sail will go past 90° on a downwind run. I'm still getting used to the downwind lift from a rotating mast. I like it, though. 6.1 mph tops and I think I can get a little more. Beats the heck out of hanging a sail out like a parachute and going slow.

Lessee...
Snotter - Line that runs up the mast, through a block or fairlead and down to the bottom end of the sprit. Trims the sail shape for different conditions.

Tack(of sail) - The bottom front corner of the sail.

Downhaul - Pulls the leading edge of the sail taut, otherwise the sail will creep up the mast and have a scalloped leading edge. Usually attached to or run through the tack grommet. Mine runs from the grommet, through an eye on the mast, back through the grommet to a cleat to give a 2:1 pull.

Brailing line - Made fast about midway up one side of the mast, runs to the backside of the sail, through a grommet and back to a fairlead on the other side of the mast and down to a handy place to grab. Pulling the brailing line will douse the sail quickly.

Posted: **Sun Sep 05, 2010 9:39 pm**

Thanks that helped a lot

I was going to make a steam bent mast partner but decided not to

No need in racing with Ks8

Let's get this done and fishing/sailing/tooling around

Got outside hull sanded, taped, glassed today.... Worked all day

No pics till Tuesday. When I sync my iPhone

Having a blast
Bradley

Posted: **Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:56 pm**

wow got a lot done over the holiday weekend

flipped after taping the interior,
sanded outside ezfilet,
taped seams,
glassed 4oz both sides
appiled ezfairing
started sanding faring

Here is the BOAT PORN

enjoy
Bradley

Posted: **Tue Sep 07, 2010 7:53 am**

Great progress for a weekend Bradley

Glass work looks real good!

Posted: **Mon Sep 13, 2010 7:51 am**

I want to say congratulations to Bradley. He finally found the right one and got married this weekend. It was a very nice outdoor wedding (the tux was hot

) and the bachelor party was profitable...at least for me

. Though the resulting headache lasted most of the next day...

He and his wonderful bride are having a short but intense

honeymoon over in Bryson City, N.C. area.

Now that I think about it ..... this may be a stealth honeymoon to go check on Tom's progress on his boat

... Tom if you see somebody peaking in your shop window, please, just shoot to wound

.

In all seriousness, I wish you a long and happy / fruitful marriage.

Andy

Posted: **Mon Sep 13, 2010 8:45 am**

Congrats Bradley

Posted: **Mon Sep 13, 2010 10:00 am**

congratulations on the wedding and also you faring skills

The fairing job is a great example of how to not waste material

Fill the lows only and use a long board

this is what fairing application should look like

Posted: **Mon Sep 13, 2010 1:43 pm**

Congratulations, Bradley!

Posted: **Mon Sep 13, 2010 4:59 pm**

Thanks everyone

Tom.. Sorry but I didn't get around to getting pics

Already home... Ready to start back on the v10

Bradley

Posted: **Tue Sep 14, 2010 7:03 pm**

Congrats on the wedding. May you enjoy many happy years together. Which might be more likely since she knew about the boat building before saying her vows.

The boat is looking good too. Can't wait to see it finished.

Posted: **Wed Sep 15, 2010 12:44 pm**

shine wrote:Nice cuts on the panles too, very fair

Needs more zip ties though

ahhhhh, looks like i learned from bateau

found this today

kettle

Posted: **Wed Sep 15, 2010 4:58 pm**

Congratulations on the marriage!

Now you've got someone to help make course corrections at 3am on VRegatta....

Posted: **Wed Sep 15, 2010 6:10 pm**

Congrats on the marriage. come Nov. 27 the wife and I will hit 45 yrs. will be up in your neck of the woods around Oct.18,19,20 and 21. Got to see the leaves releave themselves. Haven't seen them since I lived in Tenn. back in 79. Lived in Sparta for 5 yrs. Send me phone # and address. If I can get by will stop in for a few. would love to see your build.
Ken

Posted: **Wed Jan 05, 2011 1:34 pm**

update....

have to get this thing done for the meet this June...I will NOT be there for the THIRD year in a row with a PLASTIC boat

I have modified my front deck to be curved instead of flat like the plans say

it is 2 layers of 1/8 mahogany plywood with the whole bow filled with Foam

first layer

another view

and finally the back seat cleats..... the center divider section is also my design, I plan on having a screw type access hatch
for access to bottom rudder bolts and a place to put wallet and cell phone while on water.
THE brace in the middle is temporary to hold pressure on the cleat on the transom.. it has been removed
as well as the outer bays now have foam in them, I started glassing the box in the middle
but no pics yet

Posted: **Wed Jan 05, 2011 2:08 pm**

Nice bow Doc, I like the change.

Posted: **Wed Jan 05, 2011 2:10 pm**

Thanks TomW

plans show to cut front bulkhead to top of sheer line. see following pictures

I believe that the sheer line is NOT where it is pointed to on the plans

[/quote]

Posted: **Thu Jan 06, 2011 8:13 am**

Doc nice bow mod

Posted: **Thu Jan 06, 2011 1:32 pm**

Looking forward to how you implement the mast partner.

Posted: **Fri Jan 07, 2011 7:45 pm**

My 1994 version of the V10 plans has that frame drawn correctly

Posted: **Sat Jan 08, 2011 7:50 pm**

What is the dim between top and frame height?
The vertical one blacked out

Posted: **Sun Jan 09, 2011 9:47 pm**

Base line to frame top is 3-3/8". Does your version of the plans include a table of offsets?

Posted: **Mon Jan 10, 2011 10:44 am**

no, i was just wondering how tall my curve was...

update:

sanded down storage box and repainted

cut out rear seat
cut out for rear hatch

screwed in hatch, flipped over filled in gaps where I cut with jig saw

designed mast step, glued pieces together

finalized mast partner design....its a secret...

Posted: **Mon Jan 10, 2011 11:05 am**

Looks good. Don't forget that mast rake is set by the distance between partner hole and frame at the designed frame height. It will be a bit different at the top of the hump. Maybe not enough to matter much, though.

Posted: **Mon Jan 10, 2011 12:17 pm**

thanks,
the mast partner is as designed... flat..
I was thinking of steaming a curved one... but decided against it.

Bradley

Posted: **Mon Jan 10, 2011 12:27 pm**

Either way will look good. Kinda has a little SB18 look to it with the hump.

Posted: **Mon Jan 10, 2011 7:46 pm**

Doc_Dyer wrote: finalized mast partner design....its a secret...

Now you've got my curiosity wound up. Hope you get that built soon so I can see this secret.

BTW, the boat is looking good.

Posted: **Mon Jan 10, 2011 11:41 pm**

Thanks all,

The secret is I can not find the species of wood wide enough for the mast partner, so I will have to splice
Two pieces together

You will see the joint...
So.............
Sorry Its soon on the list :

Standby

Bradley

Posted: **Tue Jan 11, 2011 10:11 am**

It took me a while to find the plank for my partner. I was just about to go plywood, but I finally ended up paying too much for one on ebay.

Posted: **Tue Jan 11, 2011 10:35 am**

What kind and size of plank do yall need?

Posted: **Tue Jan 11, 2011 11:44 am**

What kind and size of plank do yall need?

Yeah, let us know. I or we might be able to help

Your boat is looking sweet btw....

Posted: **Tue Jan 11, 2011 1:43 pm**

What kind and size of plank do yall need?

Yep let me know I have some nice walnut that might work.

I'll even deliver if the snow doesn't stop me.

Posted: **Tue Jan 11, 2011 1:59 pm**

alright....

I need a piece of 3/4"x8"x43"
lacewood.

anyone find me some? Please...
Jefferies woodworks is out and dosent know when they will get more in.

anyhelp would be apreciated...

Bradley

TomW if you can get it.... Ill drive over and get it...I promise I will not bring a camera...
but would like to see your build

Posted: **Tue Jan 11, 2011 2:41 pm**

Sorry Bradley I just have the walnut in that size no lacewood unfortunately

Here's another source I have used in the past http://www.advantagelumber.com/lacewood.htm for small puchases.

Posted: **Tue Jan 11, 2011 2:49 pm**

I had to look it up to figure out what it is

Sorry Brad, no lacewood here either. I called my local supplier and he laughed at me

He suggested woodcraft.com as a possible source. I looked there and they only seem to offer it in veneers.

Posted: **Tue Jan 11, 2011 3:48 pm**

yea, Im wanting to get the partner done so I guess ill have to splice the pieces that I have

it should turn out ok...we will see

Larry if you have never seen lacewood bright finished in the sun...... WOW the little lighter sections glimmer like gold bars

truly amazing

Bradley

Posted: **Tue Jan 11, 2011 4:49 pm**

Doc if you have enough do at least a partial scarf joint even a 60 degree angle will make the joint less conspicuous.

Posted: **Tue Jan 11, 2011 5:36 pm**

Bradley, if a week isn't too long to wait I should be able to hook you up with a chunk of lacewood. Let me know if you want me to get it for you...

Posted: **Thu Jan 13, 2011 6:01 pm**

Mission Accomplished Doc

Pretty interesting wood, can't wait to see it on a boat

Posted: **Thu Jan 13, 2011 6:15 pm**

Wow, that is some pretty wood. Richard, you are the man

Posted: **Thu Jan 13, 2011 6:22 pm**

Very nice!!!!

Posted: **Thu Jan 13, 2011 7:10 pm**

Outstanding Richard

Thank you sooooo much

I'm so thankful to have met such wonderful friends here on the forum

The V-10 aka " Brandi Gale" will shine with such beautiful wood

Bradley

Posted: **Thu Jan 13, 2011 7:44 pm**

WOW

That's amazing wood, and it's not even varnished yet

She'll do right by the Brandi Gale.

Will

Posted: **Thu Jan 13, 2011 9:09 pm**

Thanks guys

Pictures do the wood no justice, it looks much better than the poor light over the work bench would let my camera capture. The flecking in the wood is supposed to shimmer like diamonds when you finish it and get it into bright sunlight. It started off the day as a 2x8 that weighed probably 8-10 lbs per linear foot. I resawed it and ran it through a big 52 inch wide auto-feed belt sander. It ended up 13/16 thick and 7 inches wide. Interesting how I aquired it...

I struck up a conversation with the guy that had the 16 foot board and asked him if he would cut me off a 4 foot piece. He really didn't want to at first. For some reason he told me he was from Alaska

I told him I spent a couple of weeks up there this summer and whipped out my I-phone to prove it. He spotted some halibut in one of the pics and asked me if I had brought any back. Of course I said yes as he picking up the board to cut me off a chunk

Anyway, I traded the board for 4 lbs. of Alaska halibut

I'm so thankful to have met such wonderful friends here on the forum

Me too Bradley...

Posted: **Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:27 am**

I'm so thankful to have met such wonderful friends here on the forum

Me too Bradley...

Amen

Posted: **Fri Jan 14, 2011 7:54 am**

I have never seen wood like that, very pretty, cant wait to see it bright finished.

Posted: **Tue Jan 18, 2011 2:13 pm**

yeee hawwww,
lookie what UPS brought me today...

Thanks Richard

here is a pic of it moistened with a damp cloth

have a meeting tonight but will start on it tomorrow night

can not wait to see a mast going through it

Bradley

Posted: **Tue Jan 18, 2011 3:41 pm**

Measure 3 times, cut once

That's beautiful stuff

Posted: **Tue Jan 18, 2011 6:49 pm**

Doc sounds like you have used this wood before. If not cut off what you are not going to be using and drill and experiment with it. The African and South American woods can be as tame as our maple or cherry or they can present special problems when machining them.

Posted: **Tue Jan 18, 2011 9:20 pm**

yes TomW,

I have used this wood before on my jet boat that I built from scratch.....plans and all..

I however did not know of this forum. therefore I failed at some critical points. which led to my boats demise

my front decorative board and also my dash were made from lacewood.

The lace parts shimmer like gold bars in the sunlight

Bradley

Posted: **Wed Jan 19, 2011 3:31 am**

No question about it Doc, it is one pretty wood! It should shine on your V10.

Posted: **Mon Jan 24, 2011 2:34 pm**

Posted: **Mon Jan 24, 2011 4:28 pm**

Doc, am really pleased to see that boatbuilders everywhere have figured out the correct use for barbells. That is a beautiful piece of wood, really pretty work.

Posted: **Fri Jan 28, 2011 11:56 am**

No question about it Doc, it is one pretty wood! It should shine on your V10.

I'm not one to usually comment on another guys wood but yours seems to be getting a lot of attention, so......nice wood.

The Boats looking great, very nice work.

Joe H

Posted: **Fri Jan 28, 2011 12:59 pm**

I'm not one to usually comment on another guys wood but yours seems to be getting a lot of attention, so......nice wood.

LMAO

Joe, you ain't right!

Posted: **Fri Jan 28, 2011 3:11 pm**

Now that's funny. Kinda makes me blush for having commented

Will

Posted: **Tue Feb 01, 2011 12:28 pm**

started sanding the interior, didnt clean up dust yet

mast partner just sitting have not epoxied yet...

Posted: **Tue Feb 01, 2011 2:24 pm**

That looks very, very nice

you still on target for the event? BTW, Andy says you need to hurry up so you can help finish the Phantom

Posted: **Tue Feb 01, 2011 2:28 pm**

Aripeka Angler wrote:That looks very, very nice you still on target for the event? BTW, Andy says you need to hurry up so you can help finish the Phantom

thx should be, still got 4 months

no doubt...but its a waiting game now
boat has to dry for a week before you can sit it on trailer

Posted: **Tue Feb 01, 2011 2:33 pm**

I would throw some wax paper on the bunks even after a week. That white paint looks mighty nice. I would hate to see it stick...

Posted: **Tue Feb 01, 2011 2:41 pm**

Doc, are you going to put a "NO STEP" sticker on that Lacewood? If I had something that pretty on my boat someone would step on it on it's maiden voyage.

Posted: **Wed Feb 02, 2011 1:43 pm**

PD,
it would be hard to get a foot up on it I think...
it is fairly strong wood also

update:

got hole cut in boat for dagger board box and ROUGH cut my skeg still need to smooth the curve and router the edges round

Posted: **Fri Feb 04, 2011 10:58 am**

Posted: **Fri Feb 04, 2011 11:05 am**

You're getting really good at that laminating stuff! That looks solid as hell!

Posted: **Fri Feb 04, 2011 11:22 am**

well the topic on making a skeg disposable got me thinking

also I plan on using this boat on the beach in June with the my wife, and SmokyMountains Family
so it will get beached a lot in a week....

so I wanted it to be bullet proof.... painting with graphite also

Bradley

Posted: **Fri Feb 04, 2011 11:34 am**

That'll do it! You bringing it to Boca? Richard and I are planning to bring two canoes as well.

Posted: **Fri Feb 04, 2011 1:18 pm**

yes, dont know if ill splash her in boca, but me and Andrew and our families are headed to Port Saint Joe for a week after we leave Boca..

It Will Be Done, by Boca trip......yes it will be there

Bradley

Posted: **Fri Feb 04, 2011 4:03 pm**

Plenty of time...

Posted: **Sat Feb 05, 2011 8:41 am**

St. Joe Bay will be fun in a V10.

Posted: **Sat Feb 05, 2011 12:17 pm**

I think we can safely say that your skeg is now a permanent part of the boat.

You won't regret fairing that well.

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage ... 44&pos=112

Posted: **Sat Feb 05, 2011 5:39 pm**

Our first Bateau Rendezvois was in or at St.Joe bay. Beautiful place. If I remember Jim Wright and myself were the only ones to have a finished boat. Another builder had a sail boat on the trailer unfinished. Can't remember his name.Couple more people without boats. Beautiful bay and flat calm perfect weather. Jacques was there. At this time Shine didn't work for bateau. This was ten or eleven yrs. ago.

Posted: **Mon Feb 14, 2011 9:54 am**

progress
stern seat started fairing,
mid-ship layer of 4oz glass

rounded Mast step, still not glued in yet

played around with a V' bit not the right one....Got the right ones today
glued it up, found out it is a bear to hold and glue all of the pieces together till you have them all in

Posted: **Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:02 am**

I like the way you did the mast step and mast. Thanks for the pics!

Posted: **Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:13 am**

Posted: **Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:45 am**

Very cool

What kind of wood will you use for the mast?

Posted: **Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:50 am**

I would love to use Spruce or douglas fir,

Posted: **Mon Feb 14, 2011 11:02 am**

Doc_Dyer wrote:I would love to use Spruce or douglas fir,

Whheeww! I was sweating bullets. I thought you were going to say you that you were looking for some ping-pong zebrawood or something...

Nice work! You guys have alot going on up there right now

Posted: **Mon Feb 14, 2011 1:17 pm**

Aripeka Angler wrote: ping-pong zebrawood or something...

thats funny

that is with 3/4" wide and 1/2" deep wood

I believe that I can reduce that down to 3/4" and 3/8"
which will get me a little larger Inside Diameter and shave a lot of weight.

will try again tonight with the correct router bits and 3/8" thick wood.

Bradley

Posted: **Mon Feb 14, 2011 5:41 pm**

Thats a cool set of bits. I thought I had a bunch. Must have missed those. Looks great.

Posted: **Tue Feb 15, 2011 8:47 am**

Ken, actually that is a V bit that I had in one of my router bit boxes

not the new ones this is with one of the new bits

this is 3/8"x3/4"ping pong zebrawood Vs 1/2"x3/4" Ash

Posted: **Tue Feb 15, 2011 9:56 am**

Very cool Bradley. Nice work

Posted: **Tue Feb 15, 2011 9:12 pm**

Mighty fine! Are you using a lathe to clean up the outside?

Posted: **Tue Feb 15, 2011 9:38 pm**

gk108 wrote:Mighty fine! Are you using a lathe to clean up the outside?

I was wondering the same thing myself

Here is a pic Doc sent me via text that got me curious...

I am about to buy a lathe myself for the canoe paddles. I think I will buy a used metal lathe in lieu of a wood lathe. It will be much more useful...

Posted: **Tue Feb 15, 2011 11:09 pm**

Actually,
That is just about 3 min with a block plane ONLY
I wouldn't believe it either till I sat down and started

Plan on building a crude lathe type setup to do the 8'6" mast
Bradley

Posted: **Wed Feb 16, 2011 8:31 am**

That is just about 3 min with a block plane ONLY
I wouldn't believe it either till I sat down and started

I love a good block plane, one of my favorite tools

I'm thinking it would take a dang big lathe to turn a sailboat mast

Posted: **Wed Feb 16, 2011 9:00 am**

I considered a few different ways when I made my wooden mast and the drill motor/wheels rig that I came up with seemed to be the easiest to throw together.

A 50 grit disk on the grinder took care of fast stock removal, fine tuned with the belt sander, then an inside-out sanding belt. As you can see, it was a sawdust intensive operation.

Posted: **Wed Feb 16, 2011 9:04 am**

Very inventive Gary

Posted: **Wed Feb 16, 2011 9:15 am**

I knew I had seen that picture somewhere before,
thanks for keeping me from digging

Bradley

Posted: **Mon Feb 21, 2011 10:08 am**

update:

sanded some more on mid section and aft section
made ash mast... dont like...
put some epoxy on test mast.... like...
cut wood for new mast .... out of ping-pong zebra wood

actually Lacewood

first coat of poxy on mast partner

Posted: **Mon Feb 21, 2011 10:17 am**

Posted: **Mon Feb 21, 2011 10:20 am**

That looks great

I was wondering what you were going to use the oops piece of wood for...

Posted: **Mon Feb 21, 2011 2:46 pm**

I like that...The Oops Piece of Wood...Perhaps we have a new blogger abreviation - OPW.

Posted: **Mon Feb 21, 2011 5:47 pm**

cape man wrote:I like that...The Oops Piece of Wood...Perhaps we have a new blogger abreviation - OPW.

Here now, I must set the record straight

I sent Bradley the OPW just in case there was an oops. I had 8 lf. of lacewood and he only needed 4. I thought about keeping the extra 4 foot I got when I resawed it, but couldn't figure out what I would use it for

I like the new abbreviation though

So Bradley, how did that wood cut and rout for you?

Posted: **Mon Feb 21, 2011 6:49 pm**

The hand built lathe is some of the finest afroengineering I have ever seen. Great idea. I will remember that.

Posted: **Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:00 am**

Aripeka Angler wrote:
So Bradley, how did that wood cut and rout for you?

Richard,
Lacewood cuts like butter, very easy to cut and router
Thanks again for sending the OPW as you can see it will not gather dust in a wood pile, but be a part of my V-10

Bradley

Posted: **Wed Feb 23, 2011 8:39 am**

went from this

to this

Posted: **Wed Feb 23, 2011 9:00 am**

now before anyone gets excited.....

this is a DRY mock up, just to see if all the little pieces fit to make a 8'6" mast

it does

will epoxy together on Friday

also found a way to put the last layer of my rubrail on so I don't have any screw holes in the finish board
the bottom wants to pull away from boat. so I did this...THIS is also a dry run...will epoxy this on tonight
along with the other side
I can fill these holes and you would have never known they were there

Posted: **Wed Feb 23, 2011 9:24 am**

That's going to be a fine looking mast Bradley

What are you going to make the sprit from?

Posted: **Wed Feb 23, 2011 9:33 am**

good question,
need to see if I can make one that small,
I believe it is 1.5" tapering to 1"

my mast is 2" ish

Lacewood (oops sorry I meant PING-PONG ZEBRAWOOD

)

Posted: **Wed Feb 23, 2011 10:28 am**

That's a cool looking mast. How did you do that, hold this with one hand while you put these parts on with your other hand and tape together with your third hand while you stand at the other end and eyeball for straightness?

Posted: **Wed Feb 23, 2011 11:05 am**

straightness will come when I epoxy together then tape then lay on floor and beat the hell out of the ends to square it up
then take a block plane and get it close before I build the lathe that was posted earlier to get it to the final shape

and yes it was a bear to get together, that is the reason it is not glued yet....
need at least a half a day to get everything ready, I have to number the pieces so it goes back like this..

maybe Friday

Posted: **Thu Feb 24, 2011 2:34 pm**

Rubrail = 1/4x1/4 Ash ontop of plywood edge, 1/4x1-1/2 Mahogany, 1/4x1-1/2 Ash, 1/4x1-1/2 Mahogany

port side not glued yet, starboard side stern finished, need to put outermost piece on midway to bow

decided to leave rubrail straight and jut fill in on the bow, just needed a little filler

Posted: **Thu Feb 24, 2011 2:39 pm**

The boat is looking great

But the fine print really cracks me up

Posted: **Thu Feb 24, 2011 2:53 pm**

good eye

Posted: **Thu Feb 24, 2011 4:35 pm**

Boats looking good doc. I too was laughing my way home from work today

Will

Posted: **Thu Feb 24, 2011 9:41 pm**

I like the updates to the fine print...

seth

Posted: **Mon Feb 28, 2011 10:46 am**

boat porn

decorative cap so no exposed plywood edges, all layers of rubrail are on

started to final finish rear seat area with tinted epoxy seal layer over faring compound

used some ingenuity on putting front rubrail on since I didn't want any screw holes on outer most layer

Posted: **Tue Mar 01, 2011 9:42 am**

Looking good Doc, She will be pretty

Posted: **Tue Mar 01, 2011 10:42 am**

thanks,
starting to sloooow down,

the final finishing takes a long time....

BUT SHE WILL BE DONE BY BOCA

Posted: **Tue Mar 01, 2011 11:55 am**

That's gonna be a good looking rubrail. While you are gluing little strips, I want to mention something that you may want to consider. Are you planning on a coaming or rail on the foredeck? When beating upwind in a good chop, I get a lot of spray that lands on my foredeck. With my flat deck, the partner acts as a coaming and directs the water overboard and saves a lot of bailing. Your deck may have enough camber to help out with that, but when heeled, you'll have more surface area that is near level from side to side than a flat deck, which would have no level area when heeled. With every rise of the bow, water in that nearly level area will run right towards the captain.

Posted: **Tue Mar 01, 2011 12:59 pm**

thanks, GK

but Im used to sailing a Phantom (moonfish, Sailfish....etc..)
so It will be a LOT drier than Im used to

no plans yet, will have to sail her and see... if shes too wet I'll add something later

Bradley

Posted: **Tue Mar 01, 2011 9:53 pm**

Doc_Dyer wrote:but Im used to sailing a Phantom (moonfish, Sailfish....etc..)
so It will be a LOT drier than Im used to

You got that right! I once rented one of those for an afternoon. Sorta fun, but no drinkholders.

Posted: **Wed Mar 02, 2011 10:11 am**

started with the knees

Outboard doubler plate with ash divider and without........I believe I will go with

trail run of one coat epoxy on rubrail and mast partner

Posted: **Wed Mar 02, 2011 10:19 am**

Looks great!

Definitely go with the ash divider.

Posted: **Wed Mar 02, 2011 10:28 am**

Nice, I really like the rubrail

I think you really are going to get it done. What size kicker you gonna put on it?

Posted: **Wed Mar 02, 2011 11:20 am**

Merc 3.3
dont know if im putting oar locks on her yet?

what did you think of the OPW... ie Ping-Pong ZebraWood

Posted: **Wed Mar 02, 2011 11:39 am**

what did you think of the OPW... ie Ping-Pong ZebraWood

I think it looks cool as all get out

Did you buy more

Merc 3.3

Nice! Do you already have it? I got my reasons for asking...

Posted: **Wed Mar 02, 2011 12:36 pm**

no I had some narrow stuff...

the wood you got me went into the Mast Partner, Knees, and Transom doubler, and connecting pieces between knees and doubler

the mast is made up of pieces ranging from 6" to 48" all pieced together to make a 8'6" Mast

Thank you again..

Dad has one that he is giving me...

Dads are cool like that

Posted: **Wed Mar 02, 2011 1:03 pm**

Dads are cool like that

And so are their children who appreciate them

I'll probably just put the almost new 2.5 hp four stroke Yamaha that I no longer need on the market then. It worked good on my boy's old Gheenoe, too small for for his GF-12....

Posted: **Sun Mar 06, 2011 9:15 pm**

Wow! That is some very pretty wood!!!

Posted: **Mon Mar 07, 2011 9:26 am**

porn

Posted: **Mon Mar 07, 2011 2:49 pm**

You need to warn us when you post stuff like that!!! I'm at work! What if someone had walked by and seen or heard me!!!

GORGEOUS!!!!

Posted: **Mon Mar 07, 2011 11:31 pm**

Thanks Craig

More porn soon

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 8:41 am**

Doc That ping pong wood is goreous

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 8:46 am**

thanks,
the pictures are not showing the depth of brilliance in the wood, hope you get to see it in person in the florida sun !!!

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 8:51 am**

Absolutely amazing. That's some pretty wood

Will

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 8:51 am**

I'll be there , wouldnt miss it

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 9:03 am**

Porn

sanded off most of primer with a guide coat of black spraycan
you can see where most of my woes will be... the corners

enjoy

and this is my mast made from Ping Pong Zebrawood (ie Lacewood)
with first coat of epoxy on

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 10:12 am**

Dang!!! That mast came out sweet!

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 11:15 am**

That is a nice looking stick. Any idea how much it weighs?

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 11:17 am**

before epoxy coat, it weighed 4 lbs 8 oz
its 8'6" long and about 2" diameter
just ordered a light fiberglass sleeve to put on the mast

hopefully it will be light enough when Im done

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 11:31 am**

Excellent.

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 12:29 pm**

NOW, I see why you were ordering the fiberglass sleeve

I was scared that you were starting over with a fiberglass mast

The wood looks sweet!! Almost too sweet to clamp an outboard on

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 12:36 pm**

Aripeka Angler wrote: Almost too sweet to clamp an outboard on

yea, may have to put a couple of clear protective disks where the clamps go

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 1:33 pm**

played a little in paintshop on computer.

here is Sterling SeaMist Green and Green KiwiGrip

what yall think?

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 5:05 pm**

Nah, I don't like it

What color is that, avocado

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 6:17 pm**

No it's sea mist green by sterling

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 6:22 pm**

I still don't like it, looks like the color I painted my mother's kitchen. Of course, it ain't my boat either

Did you want to know what I think, or did you just want me to agree with you?

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 6:24 pm**

I like the color, but I don't think it works well with all of that beautiful wood work. I think you need something closer to white to really bring out the lacewood. Just my thoughts.

Will

Keep up the boat porn

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 6:35 pm**

Exactly, it detracts from the wood.

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 6:46 pm**

Thanks, wasn't looking for yes men
I like honesty
But thought it looked like an earth tone color
And complemented the wood great

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 7:15 pm**

One of my favorite interior designers (and parent

) always said that if you want things to match then pick colors on the same side of the color wheel. If you want it to match AND bring out a specific feature then pick colors on the exact opposite side of the color wheel. That's what I was thinking when I said a white-ish color for the insides. It will accentuate all of that lacewood

I will say that I have NO training in design, and this is simply an opinion.

Lookin' good,

Will

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 7:42 pm**

You,ve been watching to much HGTV. c'mon doc. Get back to nature. Just think of all the beautif water you will be sailing.think of something that looks like Seaweed.

Not a bed sheet. Other than that what more could I say?You do some beautifl work.

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 8:12 pm**

I'll see Larry and raise him. You put that butt ugly color on that boat and I'll not give you a home brew in Boca! You need something light. If you don't want a plain white, look at a cream or very light tan. IMSO (in my strong opinion)

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 9:06 pm**

Thank ya Craig

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 10:08 pm**

EASY

It was just a thought

Good thing it was only Photoshop and not 100.00 a quart paint

For the record I still think it would look killer ........BUT......

That is some good beer

I will paint it another color

I think a poll is in order... Standby one

Bradley

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 10:20 pm**

http://www.boatbuildercentral.com/Sterl ... _chart.pdf

Ok here is the chart

Replies on what color

And no butt ugly ones .... Need to drink beer in Boca

Posted: **Tue Mar 08, 2011 10:40 pm**

I would go with Sterling cream. Kiwi has a matching color. Paint the outside of the hull green, that would be cool in more ways than one

Posted: **Wed Mar 09, 2011 6:02 am**

She's your boat. Dress her like you want. If she comes out ugly I'll give you 6 beers. They all look good after 6 beers.

Edited: I like light earth tones with wood like that. Cream would be nice.

Posted: **Wed Mar 09, 2011 6:43 am**

After thinking about it, I think cream would be a better choice for the interior too. (I keep thinking of a Easter egg when I think of the green...) You could go a little more crazy on the hull..... Like the e-tec... I wanted one but got talked out of it....

Posted: **Wed Mar 09, 2011 8:53 am**

JMO....but I like colours

.....I think blue mist on the outside & ice blue on the inside, with blue kiwigrip would look fantastic on that hull.
Steve

Posted: **Wed Mar 09, 2011 9:53 am**

I like the "moon dust" color on that chat myself, but it's not my boat.

The work so far looks very nice so go with what works for you

Posted: **Wed Mar 09, 2011 9:56 am**

Cream?

Too bad you are out of easy driving range, I probably have 2 and a half quarts of leftover Sterling in that color.

Pencil in weekend of August 13th for the fishing trip we were talking about...

Posted: **Wed Mar 09, 2011 11:16 am**

done, caint wait

ok, here is Khaki, MoonDust, and SeaMist

Posted: **Wed Mar 09, 2011 11:40 am**

Posted: **Wed Mar 09, 2011 12:32 pm**

Bradley,
I don't think Photoshop does any of the colors justice, maybe it's just me.
Love the wood!

Joe H

Posted: **Wed Mar 09, 2011 4:32 pm**

Doc, go to Shermin Williams or one of the other stores that sell samples of there paints for like a $1 or 2. Get there highest gloss or what ever gloss you want. I myself like the Cream, Light Blue and Sea Mist in that order. Put a couple of swaths of the test paint on, next to the wood over the epoxy so you can sand it off easily.

It's your boat guy and if you want Sea Mist go for it I sort of like it. Green and wood has always gone together. Another option which I'm now doing in finishing in my basement, but is not usually available in boat paint is a yellow/orange color, it really pops the wood.

Posted: **Wed Mar 09, 2011 4:46 pm**

I a fan of the cream or the white. Cream will hide dirt alittle better. Plus free sure is hard
To beat

Will

Posted: **Wed Mar 09, 2011 6:27 pm**

Bradley, my vote is the Whisper Gray for the inside. Fleet blue or Astro blue for the outside

Posted: **Wed Mar 09, 2011 6:53 pm**

I,m with larry on this one.

Posted: **Wed Mar 09, 2011 7:09 pm**

deleted, emoticon didn't work

Posted: **Fri Mar 11, 2011 6:32 am**

I like the Moon dust.

Posted: **Fri Mar 11, 2011 12:55 pm**

more Porn

got back section reprimed after a little quickfair, yet to be sanded
started front seat cleats and glassing interior of front section
Transom doubler is just sitting there, no glue yet

Changing the front seat design

decide to build another bulkhead forward and make seat straight equal to daggerboard box
then make two bench seats like Gk's
probably make out of Ping Pong Zebra Wood

(Lacewood and Ash)

Posted: **Fri Mar 11, 2011 1:05 pm**

I have never sailed a Dingy with this type sail. I need a little

with the rigging
I know I need a pulley about 3/4 way up mast (snotter

) to raise the spar

I will have a line going to the rear most lower corner of sail.... where do I attach this ... my hand only?????
or can I put a couple of those pull cleats thingy on the knees?
something about a line going around sail that you could pull in case of trouble to colapse the sail????
where do all these go?
Thanks,
Bradley

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