HC14 Build - First Ever

[topwater]

Did you glue the ends of the boards togeather before you did the tape
The reason i ask is when i look at the pic's it looks like there is a gap between the boards under the tape
and i know camera angles do some strange things to pic's.
Went back and looked at the pic's again, looks like you are useing to much epoxy.
Roll on just enough to wet the wood , put down the glass tape and use a plastic spreader to
press and flatten the tape out. Only put enough epoxy on tape to make it go clear , dont
try to fill the weave . Hope this helps.

[JCordray]

It does help! I do not have a good plastic spreader - yet. So I am working with some cheap brushes. I think I am probably using too much epoxy but I also find it hard to know when enough is enough.

For example, what does it mean to fill the weave? I am guessing I should use just enough epoxy to make the tape clear but leave some of the threads showing. A later coat of epoxy will eliminate these visible threads. Is that description about right?

On a related note, the plans say 'saturate all wood parts with epoxy.' What constitues saturating? Does this mean a thin film of epoxy which wets the wood but has no standing pools or spots?

[gstanfield]

Correct on both wetting out and saturating. This stuff does not take as much epoxy as most beginners use. You want the tape wet out enough that there are no dry spots, but don't try and put it on so thick that you can't feel the weave of the glass when you're done.

I found that some thin nap foam rollers and plastic spreaders work wonderful and save a ton of epoxy. I started out using brushes on my FL14 build and used way too much epoxy.

Keep working, you're doing good

[JCordray]

Thanks for the encouragement! I am enjoying working on the project even if it does seem as if I have no idea what I am doing yet. My wife is a bit bemused and amused by it all.

I have some parts curing now and will flip them over tomorrow and tape all five seams. Then the stitching will start. This seems like the fun part to me when the boat will start to look like a boat!

TOTAL TIME: 7 Hours

[JCordray]

So I have had a few days off of work and hobbies due to me and the whole family being ill. Tonight I will be looking to get back to the canoe. I have a question though:

All of the panel seams are done so now it is time to stitch the boat together. I am going to try to use duct tape for the most part and only use cable ties if the tape fails me. What is the best way to hold everything in place and get it all fair using the duct tape?

In particular, should I assemble it on the floor as opposed to sawhorses?

This canoe has a bottom panel, one lower chine panel on each side and then one upper chine panel on each side. The plans say attach the lower chine panels to the bottom. So how do I keep the lower chine panels from slipping past the bottom panel?

Okay, so it's more than one question. Let's call it a question with subquestions!

Maybe this will all become really obvious when I actually go and do it...

[gstanfield]

I can't help you with the duct tape, I use wires and plastic ties to stitch together everything I've built including a 6ft long tug bed I built for my son. I like using copper wire best and plastic ties in non-stressed areas personally as it allows me to fine tune the adjustment of the panels.

Most people here prefer the plastic ties and use them with complete success. I'm just odd

[peter-curacao]

I like using copper wire best and plastic ties in non-stressed areas

George next time in the stressed areas use the Ty Raps with the ss lock lip inside instead of the plastic lip, they can handle a lot more stress and I mean a lot more just a tip

[gstanfield]

I have some of those Peter, and you are correct, they are great. I have a ton of them leftover from my 8 years as an electrcician working on heavy equipment / fire trucks, etc. I just prefer working the copper wire, twisting it to "just right" It's kinda like how I prefer to use a hand plane at times instead of my electric plane.

I can't explain it really, it just "feels" right (we did establish that I'm a bit crazy right?)

[Cracker Larry]

I usually use plastic zip ties but sometimes use wire also. Wire has the advantage of being able to loosen it easily, where if a zip tie is too tight you have to cut it and replace it. And I like a hand plane too

[JCordray]

Well I had a go with the duct tape tonight and it was a total, abject failure. Of course, I enjoyed trying and even learned a few things so it has probably been a good night in my (cramped) garage.

Tomorrow I will get some zip ties and something more suitable for the spacers. That should sort it out. And I will also try attaching the correct pieces together...

Any suggestions on the spacers? I tried using some thin lumber but found the width of the lumber meant I was going to have to mitre cut the end of the spacer somehow to account for the hull angle (the width at the top of the panel being greater than the width at the point 15mm below the top where the spacer meets the panel). Should I get some small-ish dowel rods? Or perhaps really flat bits of wood like 2mm or 4mm wooden slats?

Already your help has been appreciated! My second set of seams looks better than the first!

And your boats look great!!