HC14 Build - First Ever

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dbcrx
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Re: HC14 Build - First Ever

Post by dbcrx »

They do look a little small to me too. Check your plans - mine for the chenoa have a recommended fillet size on the lamination schedule, I think. I would aim for around 6mm radius. And you want to try and get them as smooth as possible by making a tool or using a spoon or tongue depressor etc. If you get the shape right now then glass will keep it perfect leaving little filling/fairing afterwards.
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Re: HC14 Build - First Ever

Post by JCordray »

Yeah - I was using a tongue depressor to shape them and some bits turned out much better than others. The lamination schedule calls for fillets with a 1/2" radius. I think my tongue depressor makes them too small so I am going to chop off the rounded end and see if a straight edge will give me more fillet left after shaping.

Does the 1/2" radius mean the finished fillet should be 1/2" wide with a concave middle or does it mean it should be 1" wide with the same concave middle?

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Re: HC14 Build - First Ever

Post by Seadation »

JCordray wrote: Does the 1/2" radius mean the finished fillet should be 1/2" wide with a concave middle or does it mean it should be 1" wide with the same concave middle?
Hello JCordray,

You can make a fillet with a 1/2" radius by using the edge of a round object with a 1" diameter. There are many ways to do this...perhaps trim the corner of one of your squeegies to the correct radius, use a piece of pvc pipe, etc. A tongue depressor is approx 3/4" wide which yields a 3/8" radius curve its end...so the tongue depressor is too small to give you the 1/2" radius.

Fair winds,

/david

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peter-curacao
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Re: HC14 Build - First Ever

Post by peter-curacao »

Use those, most marine shops sell those in bulk but also separate at least here they do, they are reusable after the epoxy dried it cracks right off those sticks

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Re: HC14 Build - First Ever

Post by JCordray »

The whole bottom section is now finished! Well, sort of...I have to flip it over and do the bottom now.

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pos=-40459

I have managed, despite the entire family still being unwell in various ways, to carry on working. The bottom seams are done and the inside has been coated in epoxy.

So, what exactly does 'saturated with epoxy mean?' I think I have asked this before but still feel a little nervous about how little epoxy seems to stay in some places. Afte applying some with the brush I spread it around with a plastic spreader. I did both sides and about half of the bottom with about 6 oz of epoxy. This was a lot more frugal than my first attempts...

Now I need to flip it over and work on the bottom.

TOTAL TIME SO FAR: 14 HOURS

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Re: HC14 Build - First Ever

Post by Cracker Larry »

Looks great. That's a nice looking canoe. Let's put it here..

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The plastic spreader is the most frugal method to apply the epoxy. Do that about 3 times with a very light sanding between coats.
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Re: HC14 Build - First Ever

Post by JCordray »

Ah - so I need two more coats then...back to work for me!

When I use the plastic spreader it leaves some raised areas and some places looking like they have only changed color without absorbing much epoxy. I am guessing the three coats will even this out and leave it (sort of) smooth...

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Re: HC14 Build - First Ever

Post by dbcrx »

If it's changed colour then it has absorbed the epoxy. The following coats will leave a bit more resin as the wood will now be sealed so it won't soak in as much. Sanding between will take off the ridges. Or if you do the next coat before it fully cures you may be able to flatten out the ridges while spreading on the next coat.
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Re: HC14 Build - First Ever

Post by JCordray »

More work has been done on the canoe now and I have flipped it over to do the bottom of the hull. There is an awful lot of fairing to do to get all the joints looking right I think.

After I flipped it over I spent some time with a wire cup brush attached to my drill grinding off excess epoxy and filleting material. The wire brush attachment makes really short work of this! It could even grind off extra plywood but it is a bit roughr than I would like for that. A plane and sanding disc will be better for that I think.

Between my poor jigsaw skills and the places where the plywood didn't quite line up when it was stitched together, the joints have some issues.

Nothing a sanding disc attached to my drill won't fix though!

I will post some pictures later...

I really like the lines of this canoe already! I know Dave is building the Chenoa and his work is a bit prettier than mine but I like the shape of the Hiawatha more. I think the double chine look is going to be great when it is done!

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Re: HC14 Build - First Ever

Post by gk108 »

A Stanley surform will clean up the extra epoxy and overlaps quickly and cleanly. :wink:
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