Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Cut the third (hopefully last) prototype yesterday and glued all the hull panels together. This one is in 3mm Okoume.

that looks great ...

love the cnc cut out join..ery

Hey Doc, I also cut a test sheet of parts for your SUK, should be able to cut the rest of it soon

Very neat!

/david

I was about to order and build my first set of plans but my zeal was crushed by my wife.

Her exact words..."I don't want a boat I want a Stand up Paddle board." So before I am allowed to build a flats boat for myself I have to produce a SUP for her.

We do you expect to release the Plans and BOM?

thats a good problem. Most of the time its "I get a new bathroom before you build a boat"

We will only sell a kit for this design. It will be almost impossible to cut these small parts in very thin wood and have it come together well. We should be ready to sell them in a week or two, the whole kit (wood parts, epoxy, glass, AND free shipping for all of it) should be around $800

put her together yesterday, decided to add a couple more frames, and more pre-drilled stitch hole. The pre-drilled stitch holes guarantee it will all come together, saves a ton of time adjusting and guessing

more pictures at the gallery, here are some samples....

I look forward to it. Looks like I need to get a bit more clamps than I own now. And this is a distraction...She so wants a new kitchen.

hp010101 wrote:I look forward to it. Looks like I need to get a bit more clamps than I own now. And this is a distraction...She so wants a new kitchen.

I was experimenting on ways to keep frames/stringers square, ended up not using any clamps. Well, I guess I did use the 4 tiny C clamps at the transom

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jdk9tV9U ... re=related

A video showing an optional rack for SUP. I assume you would have to pre-plan these kinds of mods vice retofit to make sure the frame is strong enough. Since I live in the keys there are lots of places with big fish that are very close to my dock but the water between me and the fish is very skinny so a SUP would be perfect.

I am thinking that a few vertical flush mounted rod holders (pvc tubes) that are glassed to the frame would work well. It would add a lot of weight but I can live with that since I don't weigh over 200 pounds.

I did notice a rack in that video....

about the SUP, sure you can plan those things out when you build it, you just need to add some backing plates so that you have some then to screw into later. On this prototype we will be adding a few backing plates so we can mount eyelets for shock cords

shine wrote: I was experimenting on ways to keep frames/stringers square, ended up not using any clamps. Well, I guess I did use the 4 tiny C clamps at the transom

We will clean up the tutorial when we are finished.
In the end, after some testing, Joel did not use any clamps between the frames.
Once finished, we will weigh the SUP and we are almost certain that we will use 1/4" framing instead of 1/8.
It will only weigh a few more ounces if I cut enough lightening holes but will be much stiffer.

hp010101 wrote:. . .
I am thinking that a few vertical flush mounted rod holders (pvc tubes) that are glassed to the frame would work well. It would add a lot of weight but I can live with that since I don't weigh over 200 pounds.

As designed, this is a big SUP that displaces 350 lbs well before water reaches the deck.
We expect builders to rig it for fishing, she can take the weight.

And if you don't fish, she is big enough to take your dog paddling:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnMZuYbdC8A

Update: after flipping we coated all the inside with one coat of epoxy, then made a large fillet on inside bottom joint. Fillet provides strength and also gives some backing for when we round over the outside chine. Fillet is made with micro balloons to save weight. Also taped the bottom seam using 6 oz 3" tape.

Added a shear clamp of 1/2"x3/4", in future kits we will have the notches in the frames precut for these, but with a multi-tool they can all be cut in minutes. Glued up another batten to the tops of the stringers, these serve dual purpose of stiffening and cleats for gluing down deck. Next step is to add a few cleats to the frames, coat everything again, then glue down deck. She is still a lightweight

Prototypes begin to pile up in the back of the office. If anybody wants a SUP for very little $, email Joel.

Prototype #1 is a throw away: you can pick it up for free. It will not sink but I find it too heavy and we never painted it.
#2 is well built, lighter than #1 but still about 10lbs more than our finale design. It is a good SUP but we wanted to fine tune the building method and save weight, that's why there is #3.
#3 is the one in the pictures above, light and strong but Joel will probably want to keep it.
There may not be a #4 since all fits and goes together easily. The differences will be notches for the sheer clamp and cleats.

Just wondering about adding some lightening holes in the stringers too. Would it weaken them too much?

The lightening holes in the stringers are part of the plan.
I wanted to see how flimsy the 4 mm stringers would be. The next stringers will be 6 mm with lightening holes.
3 or 4 works but the assembly will be easier with 6mm and the difference is only a few ounces.

That head on view has me thinking of a dual purpose SUP....add a small fin and mast and go very fast.

bill

Thanks for the reply Jacques.

Bill, that's what I was thinking, a sailboard on steroids I ain't paddling that thing anywhere

jacquesmm wrote:Prototypes begin to pile up in the back of the office. If anybody wants a SUP for very little $, email Joel.

Prototype #1 is a throw away: you can pick it up for free. It will not sink but I find it too heavy and we never painted it.
#2 is well built, lighter than #1 but still about 10lbs more than our finale design. It is a good SUP but we wanted to fine tune the building method and save weight, that's why there is #3.
#3 is the one in the pictures above, light and strong but Joel will probably want to keep it.
There may not be a #4 since all fits and goes together easily. The differences will be notches for the sheer clamp and cleats.

I would like to have # 2 if it still around. I am new to board is Joel going by another name besides Joel?

hp010101 wrote: I would like to have # 2 if it still around. I am new to board is Joel going by another name besides Joel?

Joel's forum name is Shine.

MD

deck is glued down and the topside seams are rounded and glasses (will upload those pictures later)













I forgot to epoxy the backing pates under the deck, so the eyelets will have to be mounted out to the edge where there are cleats to help hold screws. She is still very light Hope to water test it this weekend

taped the top and bottom seams with 6 oz tape, covered deck with 4 oz cloth.

Sanded the tape edges so that it will be easier to fair. Glued some fins on. Next will fillet around the fins then give the entire outside a coat of epoxy.

Nice work Joel. Great SUP. Can't wait to see it on the water.

Will

I cant wait to start 1. my wife got impatient and kinda made me buy her a 11' SUP and its fun but i look forward to making mine.
I will be adding a simple mast hole I think. Here in the keys I can paddle up wind from my canal entry and almost sail back with just the wind at my back. I think it would be pretty neat to unfurl a sail and haul ass home. I don't mean a complicated sail just a simple affair on a short removable mast. I imagine you have already liquidated the one you had behind the shop.

I like the idea of having an option to make it a sail board... even if not high performance...

I will add an option for a mast step but don't expect great performance under sail.
We are going to add a few improvements like a deck stiffener and fine tune the assembly a little bit more.
As it is, the lightness is impressive. I guess it will end up being 35 lbs.

I guess it will end up being 35 lbs.

Wow, that is light. The hull shape is sweet too. It might actually sail pretty good By comparison a Mistral Superlight sailboard weighs a little over 30 pounds, not counting the dagger board, and it's not quite as thick. That was always Mrs. Crackers favorite sailboard for light wind. You would need to add a kick up dagger board slot to get windward performance, but I'd bet that with a 6 to 9 meter sail on a sailboard rig, plus a dagger board, it would sail very well. Might even need some foot straps and a harness Granted it isn't a wave jumper, but in flat water and a decent breeze it would go

It would take a little trial and error to get the mast step and dagger board in the right places so that CE and CLR are close to centered, but I think it could sail real nice.

Here is a SUP rigged with a sailboard rig. They claim 34 knots Don't know if that's true, but it looks to be fast. I've outrun a lot of powerboats with a sailboard When I get caught up I'm might have to build one of those, without the paddle.

http://www.peconicpuffin.com/the_peconi ... traps.html

That video was awesome but way more performance than I am hoping for. I am thinking a hole the size of a broom stick diameter. I noticed when I paddle board I dont use the center of the deck so I can lay it there lengthwise and pop it in and deploy when the conditions are right. Im kinda in a unique area on ramrod key where I have lots of skinny water and several different lee areas. Doubt I would ever go out to paddle board at even greater than 10 knots but the entry of this board is much better than my wifes board we bought her. Hers is very flat and slaps the water making lots of noise which scares the sharks and rays a lot.

Impressive video.
I was an avid sailboarder too, had several Mistral's including a short light sinker and several masts and sails, some very large.
I am not that strong anymore and talking about the SUP, I was thinking of a small sail manageable by a beginner. A sail to bring you home, not break records. No harness.
The mast step will increase the weight by 1 or 2 lbs.

jacquesmm wrote:... I was thinking of a small sail manageable by a beginner. A sail to bring you home, not break records. No harness.
The mast step will increase the weight by 1 or 2 lbs.

My thoughts exactly. How about a DB or CB be easily fitted, along with a kickup rudder, the thought being that an SUP like this might be commonly used in the skinny waters. I'm thinking a drop-in DB that can kickup half its beam into a CB case. The reasoning being that it could then have a lower aspect ratio (stubbier for skinny water), cause no *bump* in the deck, and be easily and completely removed just by pulling it straight up and out when it is fully deployed downward on its pivot (the pivot being part of the removable assembly). A spare shorter paddle can be adapted to be fitted as a rudder.

You don't need a rudder at all with a sailboard rig The mast step is articulated at the base and you use the CE of the sail to steer. Tilt the sail forward and let it out and the board turns downwind, lean the sail back and trim it in and the board turns upwind.

You can by replacement centerboard/daggerboard boxes for sailboards off the shelf that you could just drop in and glass in place.

I learned something about fins today.

Wife's board is about 25 pounds and bulky for her.
It slipped out of her hand while lunching off the dock and snapped 1 of the 3 fins off on the edge of our dock.

Since the fins on her board slide into a slot and are held in place with a set screw it is absolutely not a big deal. We just get a new fin and pop it in.

Now I noticed that the fins you set on this board are going to be a bit more work to replace if knocked off or is it impossible to knock off without removing a large chunk of hull as well?

this one is finished, when the epoxy cures i will weigh it. Its not perfect, but it looks good. We will build one last prototype to improve the building technique.

Now I noticed that the fins you set on this board are going to be a bit more work to replace if knocked off or is it impossible to knock off without removing a large chunk of hull as well?

You can put in a fin boz if you want, it would not be hard. You would just have to install it into the bottom before you put the board together, then sand it flush. It adds weight, build time, and cost; all of which I wanted to minimize for this board

Very nice Shine, something I could be interested in

Larry B wrote:Very nice Shine, something I could be interested in

Indeed I like the board also but I don't like the fins they look horrible imho, if Imay say so in the first place

38 lbs finished weight.

the fins they look horrible imho, if Imay say so in the first place

You can make the fins however you want.

peter-curacao wrote: Indeed I like the board also but I don't like the fins they look horrible imho, if Imay say so in the first place

I agree, the first fins Joel cut for prototype #2 were much nicer.
You can cut them anyway you want.
I will include a set of fins similar to the 1st ones but there is enough plywood leftover to cut different fins.
We will also include notes about accessories:
- how to install a fin box
- how to install an optional mast step.
I have not decided which mast foot system to use. Any suggestions?

BTW, for sailing, I wonder if we really the complication of an optional dagger board. I had some boards without dagger board and I could gain on the wind.

I have no sailboard experience. Will there also be a lines drawing for one or two suggested sail rigs? Can this design accommodate a simple and light (felt weird typing that ) box structure seat?

If I were building it as a sailboard, I would only have one skeg on the center line. Skeg boxes with replaceable skegs of different styles and sizes.are readily available for sailboards. Glass or glue in the box, and the skeg is replaceable. Same with the dagger board and mast step. There are many off the shelf parts for skegs, dagger boards and mast bases that could be easily incorporated into the hull.

Ideally the mast base would be on a short track that slides fore and aft, to better adjust the CE on different points of sail. Look at some of these as examples.. http://www.google.com/search?q=sailboar ... 80&bih=829

Can this design accommodate a simple and light box structure seat?

A sit down sailboard I've never seen. Unless the wind is very light, you aren't going to sail it sitting down

I am an admitted windsurfing snob but IMHO, sans centerboard, you will never be able to drive that board upwind without a large, high aspect fin and plenty of power (speed).

bondo wrote:I am an admitted windsurfing snob but IMHO, sans centerboard, you will never be able to drive that board upwind without a large, high aspect fin and plenty of power (speed).

Yes but to go upwind, you paddle.

started a new thread for the next prototype....

http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=30541

put a couple strips of kiwigrip on this one, looks pretty good. I used a west system short foam nap roller cover and the resulting texture should not be too rough on the knees or chest.

Wasn't thinking of sailing sitting down. Was thinking more like resting the knees after some standup paddling or poling, while fishing, and having that *box* for some light stowage.

Ken, Stickystuff, used to be a dealer for a board like that. He brought one to the Crystal River meet 4 or 5 years ago. Ask him how it worked out

These will be lighter than Flatstalkers. Flatstalkers weighed in at 115# with consoles. They had a special made heavy duty two ended paddle which could be used for push pole as well as paddling.Neat concept but a real bitch to paddle against a current. My trolling motor went up in smoke and I had to paddle back to the ramp on an outgoing tide. Had a blister on my thumb that took a month to heal.

For pics of flatstalker go to www.flatstalker.com