Note: I didn't have a jigsaw. Used a handsaw and a rasp and cut it the way they teach you how to derive the formula for the diameter of a circle by splitting it up into thousands of tiny triangles (remember that from Geometry/Calculus?). I have since bought a jigsaw.
So the goal is this: Sailboat with oars for backup power. I finally got some free time to get thing started, and I opened the kit about 2 weeks ago. Here is what it looked like:

The CNC kits really do make it easy. The parts all fit together well, and if you've watched the tutorials on the bateau.com website, once you have all the pieces in front of you, it is very intuitive. I read the plans ahead of time to be sure, but I don't think I've looked at them in a week. The only downside to the kits is that some of the cuts are not cut all the way through, and you have to hand saw them (or jigsaw) yourself, and then sand down the edges (which can cause a great many splinters).
So then you glue the butts.

They sit overnight. (Maybe longer if you live in one of those cold northern climes. Here in Alabama, epoxy cures fast. Very fast.)
And then you stitch the chines and transom and it looks like this: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/240 ... M00012.jpg
I used Gorilla duct tape to tape the bottom to the chines. Easy stuff - see -


And then the real work starts: EPOXY!! This is a big step for a first timer because unlike everything done heretofore, you A) haven't done epoxy work before, and B) tape and tie-wraps are un-doable. There is no reset button on epoxy. But just be careful, and if you use the Ziploc bags, use the heavy duty ones. Those corners DO tear if you push them hard. It gets worse once the epoxy gets hot and sticky.
My first fillets were honestly a bit too runny, but I think it worked fine ultimately. You just have to work really really fast and maybe the Alabama heat helped me out in this regard because I never had a problem with the fillets dripping.
See front:

See back:

I know that the transom looks a bit messy. I underestimated the lightness of the fiberglass tape and didn't predict how easily it would move under the brush strokes. But luckily the transom is covered by the rear seat in this boat, so it should be fine. Hopefully. Let me know if anyone knows a solution for fairing this down. Would a circular grinder work?
And here, I deviated from the plan. My nails didn't work well to keep the frames in well, so I gave up on perfection and recalled the Jacques/Shine guide which says you can have a gap of up to 1/2". Lucky for me, that was correct. I had a solid 1/4" gap between the frame edges and the chines. But once I'd filleted and taped them, it seemed unnoticeable. See:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/240 ... M00019.jpg[/img]

And that is where I am tonight.
Thus far, I've put in about 6 sessions of 1/2 to 1.5 hours each. I will return with updates when they are available.
This is my first build, and I have some minor woodworking experience, but I would very much appreciate any help and advice that you veterans can provide.