HC14, Jefferson State

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Vanagod
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Re: HC14, Jefferson State

Post by Vanagod »

That is half the point behind this canoe, figure out what works for me. I've been dreaming of a ST21 since Spookalo (sp?) brought it up around 2006 when he was still building his Nina. Probably one or two builds between this canoe and the ST21 though. I did buy one of those lamination rollers, FWIW.

Thanks for all of the advice.
-Aaron
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dbcrx
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Re: HC14, Jefferson State

Post by dbcrx »

I'm with peter on the rollers. I hate the foam ones - short hair all the time for me. The only down side to them is they can leave bits of fluff behind. Not too important but if you want a nice clear finish or are painting with them then just roll them up and down some tape first.

I don't necessarily agree with the consolidating rollers though. For big jobs where you are laying multiple layers of glass, yes they are essential. But for a small job with just one layer like a canoe, those hair rollers will push out any air and the consolidating roller won't really make any difference.
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Vanagod
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Re: HC14, Jefferson State

Post by Vanagod »

Do you all have any suggestion for cleaning out foam or nap rollers? I heard that white vinegar works on uncured resin, but I'm not sure to the best process.

I ended up buying both 3/8" nap rollers and foam rollers at Lowes, I'll try both and see which I like most. I like that the foam rollers are available for less and in 10 packs if I have to treat them as disposable.

For my [line scribing] batten I plan on using some 1/8" x 1.25" steel flat bar I have in the garage. It is plenty flexy. Please speak up if you think a strip of 1/4" ply would be better.
-Aaron
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dbcrx
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Re: HC14, Jefferson State

Post by dbcrx »

Vanagod wrote:Do you all have any suggestion for cleaning out foam or nap rollers?
Yes, throw them away and use a new one. I've never successfully clean epoxy from a roller or brush. It cures too hard so even the smallest amount that doesn't clean out will make it stiff.

Steel bar should work for marking out the curves. You just need something that will bend to the curve without bring too flexible that you can push lumps into the curve.
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Vanagod
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Re: HC14, Jefferson State

Post by Vanagod »

Well, last night I made first saw dust from that beautiful ply wood I am using. First was making a batten for drawing my curves. At first I was planning on using some 1/8" flat bar (steel) I had laying around, but then I realized that it had some weird bends in it, so I decided to sacrifice 1.5" of my plywood instead. Here is my batten marked out before my first cut:
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Now is my new batten in action. I saw Cracker Larry using this method for locating a batten, clamped triangles. My biggest complaint with this method was that the triangles were so thin that the batten got shoved over easily.
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I then had to draw a 1" camber on a 9" baseline. This curve was too tight for my plywood batten. I tried a few items in my garage and settled on some 1/16" welding rod. I had to ditch the clamps and triangle method for nails since the rod kept pushing under the triangles.
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I finally drew my last curve using my plywood batten and nails. I think I'll use this method until I find a reason to not.
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I used my worm drive circular saw for the long cuts and a jig saw on the camber. Here is my first panel.
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Now to copy this panel three times and I can move onto the next.
-Aaron
"A-Ron the relentless"

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jacquesmm
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Re: HC14, Jefferson State

Post by jacquesmm »

Nice and pretty but such precision is not necessary. Do it only if you enjoy the process.
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Vanagod
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Re: HC14, Jefferson State

Post by Vanagod »

What is too precise, my methods or my documentation?
*chuckles* :P
My nature is to start too precise if I don't know what I am doing. Once I get a feel for what corners can be cut, I will start cutting them (pun not intended, but it works).
-Aaron
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jacquesmm
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Re: HC14, Jefferson State

Post by jacquesmm »

It's very nice work but I don't want to scare away potential builders who have less skills. :)
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Vanagod
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Re: HC14, Jefferson State

Post by Vanagod »

On my last progress update I had finished cutting out my first panel of ten on this project. I enlisted some help on tracing/copying my first panel.
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After my oldest traced out his panel, I realized that it was a little crowded up there [on the wood], so for the last two tracings I limited it to one boy at a time. My oldest got to do two and my middle got to do one. After cutting, my boys asked me why I made flags and what they would be used for. It turned out that the remnants did look like flags.
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Then my helpers volunteered to help clean up...I didn't even have to ask!!
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I finished out this evening drawing out the top panel and the bottom panel. I bought a new .9mm mechanical pencil to use instead of the contractors pencil I had been using. Talk about a much nicer experience.
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Looking a the nesting in the plans I realized that there was a bit of space of "wasted wood" and that I could fit an extra top panel on this sheet with a little jiggering. So I offset the dimensions on the bottom plate to skooch it closer to the top panel. All of the symmetrical parts in this boat makes things go easily. There are only 3 unique panels, everything else just needs trace/copied.

Next step, finish cutting out all of my panels and rub rails. Then clear the garage so I can put winter tires on our family hauler.
-Aaron
"A-Ron the relentless"

Soli Deo Gloria
Semper Reformanda

Vanagod
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Re: HC14, Jefferson State

Post by Vanagod »

A bit has happened since my last post. I got all of my wood cut out, with lots left over for breasthooks, seats and other goodies for later. Here is my stack of un-glued wood.
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Then, I started glueing. I did the bottom panel first, and coated the whole thing since I had so much epoxy left over, and I was jumping the gun since I didn't fully read the instructions. Then I realized that I should probably epoxy-paint everything after the boat is assembled. So the chine panels and top panels are only epoxied at the splices.
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Note how the ends are overhanging my 8 foot table. When these were spliced, they were supported by two 8 foot boards each, not a table. Not a good idea. I think that led to my problems later. When I was doing my splices, I had the boards weighed down, but not directly over the splice, so they did not cure fair to each other. Then I went to stitch the chine panels to the bottom panel, just to find that the splices were far from fair, and might even be weak. The below thread covered that debacle. At least it didn't cost me too many hours.
http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=58306
Well, I respliced the chine panels (I haven't inspected the top panels yet), clamping them with some weights, a piece of scrap plywood and a scrap of tarp to separate the plywood from the curing epoxy. Sorry, no pictures. I restitched the panels (went much faster this time) and installed the spreaders. Much fairer this time. I also built a 14' table to support the whole thing. The table was about $30 of materials. Two 2"x4"x14' boards and a sheet of '1/4" Melamine'. Its nice having a table that epoxy doesn't stick to.
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Installing the spreaders.
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And laying the tape before the fillets are made.
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This weekend I plan on filleting and glassing both chines on the interior. I'll probably let the garage get cool to give me a little more pot life and then crank up the propane heater to encourage curing once the glass is laid. It sure is encouraging to see this come together...little by little.
-Aaron
"A-Ron the relentless"

Soli Deo Gloria
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