FL 14 in Florida Build

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94'325is
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Re: FL 14 in Florida Build

Post by 94'325is »

I sanded the resin down with 60 grit and a random orbital to smooth it. Then I taped it off and used Z Spar varnish that was actually over 20 years old (still worked great!). In between coats I sanded with 320 grit sandpaper by hand and in total did 5 coats.

94'325is
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Re: FL 14 in Florida Build

Post by 94'325is »

Boat Launched!

I'm extremely happy with how it went, I used a 24lb thrust trolling motor until I get an outboard for it and even with 3 people w/ fishing gear, and the cooler full of ice and water it handled very well. There are a few things left to do like put the rubrail on and get the boat rigged correctly but overall it was a complete success.


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jacquesmm
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Re: FL 14 in Florida Build

Post by jacquesmm »

Congratulations on the launch.
Put that rubrail on as soon as possible, it adds lots of stiffness to the side panel.
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94'325is
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Re: FL 14 in Florida Build

Post by 94'325is »

Thanks!

I plan on getting the rubrail on soon. I have 1"x2" teak strips cut to 8' lengths (4 total pieces) but I need to get them ripped in half so it will bend to the contour of the hull. Any recommendations or where to get it cut in half? I was going to look for local cabinet makers. One of my friends has a table saw but we're not sure if it will be precise enough to cut it in half accurately.

jacquesmm
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Re: FL 14 in Florida Build

Post by jacquesmm »

I expect builders to use leftover strips of 1/4" plywood: no need to rip them.
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http://boatbuildercentral.com

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remedy32
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Re: FL 14 in Florida Build

Post by remedy32 »

You really want to get them on soon. It will stiffen the sides of the boat a lot. These are 2 layers of 6mm from scrap during the build. Might be a bit more difficult to get the teak (or mahog) to follow the contour of the hull. You'll probably want to remove the paint from the area where you bond the rail for best results. Mine was a combo of epoxy, ss screws and many clamps overnight.

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94'325is
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Re: FL 14 in Florida Build

Post by 94'325is »

Thanks for the suggestions, the rubrail will be put on before I put the boat in the water again. The past Sunday was a shakedown cruise to see how it floated and handled.

I already have the teak, I need to cut it in half in order to bend it to follow the contour of the hull. I was planning on using SS screws to fix it to the sides so I can replace it later if needed. I might do a thin layer of epoxy under then screw it in place, I'm going back and forth on that. The sides of the boat definitely need some stiffening up and I can see why everyone puts a rubrail on.

jacquesmm
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Re: FL 14 in Florida Build

Post by jacquesmm »

Yes, the rubrail is part of the structure.
Can you build it from plywood and cover with teak?
The epoxy lamination is what makes it strong.
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94'325is
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Re: FL 14 in Florida Build

Post by 94'325is »

Good idea, rip off some strips of scrap ply then make a teak outer layer. Would it be a good idea to epoxy laminate the scrap plywood strips on then screw the outer layer of teak to the ply? I plan on using the boat a lot and I don't want to be afraid of the rubrail being used due to not being able to replace it.

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Cracker Larry
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Re: FL 14 in Florida Build

Post by Cracker Larry »

Would it be a good idea to epoxy laminate the scrap plywood strips on then screw the outer layer of teak to the ply?
Yes. Teak is a very oily wood and does not glue well, especially something like a rub rail that is under a lot of stress. You wouldn't want to use it as a structural laminate, but as sacrificial trim it's fine.
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