Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

See attached pics.

Not sure how else to get the hull to come up and match the bracing as all the zip ties and seams are pulled pretty well tight already. All the other seams between the frames and hull were tight as can be seen from the last frame that separates the sole from the bow of the boat.
If I pull this floating frame off of the stringer, it sits right down on the hull with very little gap, as I would expect it to. Is this frame supposed to go in front of the stringer and not sit in the notch? On top of it? In the picture from the instructions it looks like this frame sits back a bit further from the front of the stringer. I tried removing the zip ties for the most part and started over with the same result but the stringers are just hanging up really high in the bow of the boat. If I force the bow up to try closing the gap between the stringer and the hull, the sides flare way out and the frames don't fit anymore.

I can make this work but I'm just rather confused as to why there is such a big gap here. Any other thoughts?

This is from the C&C kit by the way.

Did you put build the boat upright or upside down on a jig with the bow mold

I pulled that A frame forward a bit and let the stringers butt against it on mine, no slot. In the pic it looks like that'll reduce your gap pretty well. I'd just move it till I got the best fit I could, trim it if need be, and go with it. If the stringers come up a bit short I'd sister in a little piece, no worry. It seems to me that every set of ply panels have their own mind so we give 'em a little leeway.

Dougster

I will check this PM but we built a kit from that same kit and did not have that problem.
You probably have to move those parts forward.

I don't see anything wrong in the model or the kit and as I said, we did build a prototype from the kit, exactly the same files and we did not have that gap. Plus, we must have several other kits under construction, we sold a number of them and nobody else had the problem.
It is probably an assembly problem.
It looks like all the framing has to move forward.
I see one explanation: the transom. Did you put the two put the transom between the sides and bottom? Not meeting at the edges but between them? Do you have the 3 transom layers of the transom glued together?
Those two points could explain why the framing sits too far back.
Can we have a picture the whole assembly?
We will solve the problem, it's not difficult but I like to understand.

I checked another SK14 thread and he does not show assembly problems:
http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php ... 5&start=20
Something must have moved.

Sorry for the late reply.

I ended up starting all my fillets from the transom and let them set before putting some encouragement on the stringers and that last piece of framing. In the end it all turned out well enough and after the fillets and fiberglass it looks pretty good.

Sorry for giving you the impression that I was suggesting something was wrong with the design. What I really was looking for was suggestions on how to pull the hull up to match the stringers or visa versa. I'll post up some picks next time I get a chance.

Cheers

Glad to hear that it came together properly. Keep posting pictures please.

Per Jaque's request, more pics.

Nice!!! Very clean build!!! Jeff

Sure looks familiar (maybe a bit cleaner than mine ). I'm a couple of threads below you with the same build. Looks like you put extra doublers midships? I've haven't updated lately as all I have been doing is fairing the inside. Are you planing on stainless/aluminum centerpost like the plans show pictured?

Dougster

Hi Dougster,
Since this is my first boat build, I have been watching your thread to ensure that I'm still on the right track. I'm patiently waiting to see some progress on the bottom of your hull and how you fair the glass on the bottom.
Yes I added doublers all the way from the transom to the front bulkhead. I did this prior to realizing how much the flotation foam would support the deck. Figured it couldn't really hurt.
As for the center post, yes I am planning on doing this but a bit differently. I am attaching an aluminum folding step stool to the sole that will function as a grab handle when in motion but also function as a casting platform when sight fishing reds in the marsh. Since it is a folding step stool, it can also be laid flat on the deck when trailered or in storage.
There are other additions I have implemented such as a built in dry storage in the front compartment. I foamed in a plastic bucket that will function as the compartment rather than just tossing stuff in the cavity below the deck. I am using PVC brick mold for the rub rail rather than the suggested 3/4" wood rail. This seems to have worked pretty well as the epoxy in addition to some stainless steel screws are holding stronger than I can pry off. As you also noted, there isn't much place to attach a U-bolt up front so I epoxied in a wood block to provide additional girth that I can run a lug into.
I contemplated installing a fuel bladder up front to eliminate the unsightly fuel tank that will have to be set on the rear deck. I ultimately decided against this idea since it seemed like too much effort and cost for a first time build.

My plan to have the build done by November to take advantage of the fall fishing doesn't look like it will happen. Good thing I still have my SoloSkiff to get out on the water.

Here are your pics!!!

Doin some fairing.




Thanks for the idea Dougster. Sadly I have no friends to bribe with beer and pizza that could help me flip this little boat over.








Now for the bottom.





Should have he fiberglass on the bottom this coming weekend and then begin fairing it out. If I keep this up, I might be able to finish it this year.

Nice clean build and great flip!!! Jeff

Glassed the bottom.

Pics are somewhere around here.

Nice looking work on a great looking design

Man I really love sanding!!!

Looking for the paint next. What do y'all suggest for the primer and topcoat? Any suggested reading about the steps, procedure and tips will be really helpful.
Plan is to do a darker green or blue on the bottom of the hull and then a light version on the top. Maybe white, but I like the colors instead.

Another question, has anyone seen or used the fiberglass as a turf option for the sole or deck? After wetting out the fiberglass on the bottom hull I was impressed with how nice the textured surface looked. Thought about using the left over sheet from the hull, cutting it to the desired shape and wetting it out on the sole. Once that sets up, just clean up the edges with fairing and paint over it. Seems like it should leave a nice durable textured surface. Thoughts, ideas? I know there are other options of course.

I used 1708 with the roving up on the back deck of a work boat. It held up for the 10 years I had the boat so I would say it can be done. Gave a nice non-skid even when coated with slime from hundreds of fish. Cleaning was a bit more work but I had a high pressure water hose so no big deal.

For primer use System Three high build primer , two or three coats wait a week and longboard sand to 220 grit.
Then paint with EMC topcoat .

Topwater, excellent recommendation!! Jeff

One last touch up sanding and I'll be done with the hull. Paint is on the way!!

Looks good!!! Jeff

Is that the shade of blue on the brick wall that you are using?

stickystuff wrote:Is that the shade of blue on the brick wall that you are using?

Nope, that is just spray over from when the previous owner of my house decided to paint a door.

I selected Pineland from Supermarine for the hull and Light Pewter for the top.

I was just looking back over your build photos and realized that I have never seen fairing filler applied so well. Almost looks like you didn't need to sand it at all. Incredible job. Bateau needs to send a film crew to your place and document your technique as a tutorial. What did you use as your spreader? I thought I was pretty good, but you are the fairing master for sure. Mike

seaslug wrote:I was just looking back over your build photos and realized that I have never seen fairing filler applied so well. Almost looks like you didn't need to sand it at all. Incredible job. Bateau needs to send a film crew to your place and document your technique as a tutorial. What did you use as your spreader? I thought I was pretty good, but you are the fairing master for sure. Mike

Camera adds 10 lbs, which fills in all the little seams and divots that needed touched up on the second pass.
All I used though was a 12" drywall taping knife and meticulous attention to detail.

Got a chance to add the first coat of primer over the weekend. Thought it would go on smoother but I ended up with a lot more dimples than I expected. Looks more like it went on like wall paint due to the roller. Sanded it out some today but that mostly just took off the tops. It is a lot smoother now but it is a long way away from being like the smooth finish that I saw in a few other threads. It is a bit disturbing to think of all the sanding I did to get the surface nice and smooth with just the fairing paste and then when I coated it with the primer, all that effort was for naught.

Some questions for you more experienced folk,
What type of roller do y'all recommend for adding the primer and the paint. I read to use a 3/8" nap standard roller. Any suggestions to use a foam roller instead?
Do you suggest I try tipping out the primer on the next coat to get a smoother finish?
What grit do you start with when sanding out the primer? I started with 80 grit but that quickly ran out of steam when the majority of the roughness was smoothed out. It would take an exceeding ammount of effort to sand down the dimples with this 80 grit.
Is the topcoat paint that much thinner than the primer so that it will lay out smoother.









Here is another pic, probably the worst looking spot. Plan is to hit it some more with the sand paper when I don't have such a bad headache.

Is that system three high build primer ? If it is the longer you wait to sand the harder it gets. Knock it down
with a R O with 80 grit then hit it with the fairing board. Do not go crazy with the RO .

Personally I've never seen any primer that went on so poorly without any sign of flowing out and laying down flat. I've not used the System 3, but a lot of builders have, and I don't recall any complaints, in fact everyone gives it high praise. Are you sure the mix was correct? Looks like it must have been very thick to stand up like that. Unfortunately it's too late now, and will need more sanding than should be necessary, but I'm sure other guys with more experience with this primer can help with advice. Good luck. Mike

I've used lots of S3 and never seen that I use foam rollers and 1/4" nap rollers from Home Depot mostly. Sometimes I've tipped it with a disposable foam brush, but didn't last time. With nap rollers last week I wanted to tip but had no brushes and still didn't have a problem. I like the too thick mix idea. 4 to 1 ratio and I recall thinning it a bit with water after the pot sat a couple of hours. I'd go after it with the RO and 80 grit too, but with care. Bummer, but a bit of time will fix it. I have two coats on my SK14 now and hand sanded it a bit last night with 180 grit, which took out some of the pin holes.

Dougster

It is Supermarine Etching Primer. I hit it with a 46 grit paper on the long board this morning and it actually sanded down quite a bit so now it is looking pretty decent.
I ordered some foam brushes that I think will minimize the texture.

I have only used S3 and never saw a finish like that , that's why i asked. Glad you got a handle on it now. Build on.

Slowly but surely.....

I got a chance to put a couple coats of bottom paint on the hull today. Looks pretty decent but am likely to give it a light sanding before flipping over.
Anyone think that a 500 grit sand paper on the long board is a good call or should I just accept the light differences in the roller marks that didn't blend together as much as I wanted?







I'm pretty impressed with myself. It actually took some effort to roll over 4" of masking tape and still get that smudge of paint on the transom. Oh well, it is ganna get painted over eventually anyhow.

Elementfiftyfour, looks really good!! Nice paint work!! Jeff

Flipped it over and back to work on the top.



Checking to see what my post looks like.


Drilled a couple holes in the transom supports to let water drain.


Put some final touches on the fairing and cut the hole for my bucket.


Taped and primed it this morning.






Question about the motor and prop depth.
Is this low enough or do I need to get a long shaft motor? This is the Tohatsu 5HP short shaft that I got for my rotomolded SoloSkiff.

really nice build

The motor height looks perfect - but let the experts be the final word................ "ventilation plate level with the keel line"

Hi,

I had the same doubt, in tutorials I found this:

Most planing boats will work better with the cavitation plate flush with the bottom of the boat or a little bit above: 1/2" is common.

http://bateau2.com/howto/shaftlength.php

Regards,

Carlos

csotelo wrote: ↑Mon Jan 30, 2017 9:30 am Hi,

I had the same doubt, in tutorials I found this:

Most planing boats will work better with the cavitation plate flush with the bottom of the boat or a little bit above: 1/2" is common.

http://bateau2.com/howto/shaftlength.php

Regards,

Carlos

Thanks, just the info I was looking for in relation to such a skinny water boat. I looked over a lot of the build tutorials but apparently missed that one all together.

The motor looks perfect, and if not you can slightly adjust the transom height later a lot easier and cheaper than a long shaft.

I'm glad you flipped it, as I was going to tell you no one will ever see the bottom and it looked great from here. Can't wait to see pics of this baby running! I'm all about small engines on small boats, and I am wagering she will be lots of fun!

Looks awesome! It

You'll eventually scuff the paint! Looks great from where I am sitting.

Very Impressive

Cannot wait for water pics!

Bot that looks good! I'm closing in on finishing mine and really look forward to hearing how she handles. For now I'm going with only a trolling motor mounted on the bow, probably one of those Minnkotas with anchor lock. I'm trying, but you set a high bar

Dougster

Really well done SK14!!! Where did you get the grab bar and is it easily removable? Jeff