SOBX Solo Flats Skiff SK14

[Jeff]

BrianC, really nice work on the hull!! Jeff

[BrianC]

Thanks Cracker Larry & Jeff! I have gotten this far without major mistakes largely because of this forum. I spent quite a few months just reading many of the build threads - every one of the "tricks" I have used so far have come from reading this forum. I accumulated quite a few pages of notes which have helped enormously to guide my build; unfortunately, I didn't always record the source so I haven't always been able to give credit for the specific tips. All the information here in the forum and in the Bateau web site tutorials really helps fill in the details. Of course, the starting point are Jacques' designs. Also, his "fairness above all" has been a key guiding principle.

[BrianC]

I just mailed in my NC registration papers - the only thing needed on a home built boat here in North Carolina is to fill out, sign, and have notarized the section attesting that the vessel is homemade and has never been registered - nobody has to see or inspect the boat so sending it in prior to completion isn't an issue.

[Jeff]

Good laws there in NC!!! Glad it went so smooth for you!! Jeff

[BrianC]

I spent four hours today glassing the hull - I followed the plans and cut the 50" wide 6 oz. cloth into two 25" wide strips. I also cut a piece for the transom. Lots of pictures - I hope folks will let me know if it gets to be too many!

The first step was to mark the hull to guide the placement of the glass cloth - putting a pen to the hull wasn't a good feeling but it all get covered with primer and paint so not to worry:



I had rolled up each piece of glass cloth to make it easier to lay down. I thought about doing both pieces at once - I'm really glad I didn't! This piece was rolled out on the bare wood:


I cut small pie wedges out of the transom corner and folded over. There is still an overlap but with less bulk than doing a corner like a bed sheet. I also put a few temporary tape pieces to hold it in place:


I wasn't sure what tools I'd need so I started with a full set:

fiberglass laminating roller (that is the black one), 4" roller (Whizz woven fabric, 4" wide, 1/4" nap), a small touch up roller with even less nap, a plastic scraper, and a chip brush. I ended up only using the 4" roller and the plastic scraper. The scraper really made it easy to move the epoxy around and to move all the excess to the next section to be glassed. It is just a cheap ($0.15!) dough scraper from a nearby restaurant supply place. The 1/4" nap fabric roller was also perfect - many here suggested this one - thanks! Just mix the epoxy in the cup with an oversized popsicle stick, dribble onto the glass near the keel, move it around with the scraper and roller, dab on extra where needed with the mixing stick, scrap to move the excess to the next section, finish with the roller for a smooth finish.

Here it is with the first side glassed:

I had epoxy left so I went ahead and rolled on a quick coat over the remaining exposed wood.

There was one place near the bow that wouldn't lay flat. A small pie slice shaped cut out fixed the problem. I did another on the other side but cut a bit less so that there was just a bit over overlap - I think I cut a bit too much on this one; no overlap:


Here is the finished corner back on the transom:


And here is a detail of the bow area - lots of layers!


The second side was rolled out over the wet epoxy coated wood:

This went faster and with less fuss than the first half which was placed over bare wood - also, I put on a fresh roller just in case. Pre-coating would seem to be the way to go (CL can say he told me so!)

And four hours later, here is the glassed hull:


Nothing but vinegar for cleanup - soaked and rinsed the rollers so I can maybe use them again. This works with chip brushes so maybe

[Jeff]

BrianC, Really nice job!! Jeff

[BrianC]

On to the next stage - first a question - do I need to "fill the weave" by rolling on some neat epoxy before moving on to the next step? Is this really necessary before progressing on to resharpening the trailing edges of the hull and back half of the chines?

[seaslug]

Brian, Beautiful glass job, and being well organized pays off as everyone can see. I really like the looks of that dough scraper, guess I'll be visiting a restaurant supply store soon. Although it isn't necessary, if I have time I like to work wet on wet, or at least spread the initial coating of fairing compound before the resin fully cures. I'm on my second build and after laying the glass, I wait a few hours until it's firm enough, than spread epoxy thickened with fairing filler to a pancake batter consistency that I can pour out of the mixing container. It flows out nicely filling the weave, and if I do a good enough job, will only need 1 sanding, with very few small areas to touch up. If the mix isn't too thick you can even roll it on with that 1/4" nap 4" roller, it works for me quite well.... For building up the hard chines I used PVC boards for forms from Lowes I had left over from a job. You know the boards that have a simulated wood grain texture on 1 side and smooth on the back side. I screw them tight to the hull with a few thin drywall screws, and pour the epoxy and milled glass fiber and level off just like pouring and troweling cement. The screw holes get filled afterward, so no worries there. Another way is to use any wood board as your form with plastic packaging tape, wax paper, so the forms come off. Hope this helps. Mike

[BrianC]

The plastic scraper is a Winco PDS5 Dough Scraper - Amazon also has them for a bit more if your local restaurant supply store doesn't carry them - $11 for a dozen, $15 for two dozen:
https://www.amazon.com/Winco-12-Piece-P ... B003HEYYDK

[BrianC]

Are there any tricks for attaching the skeg? Do I need to tab it to the hull with tape on both sides or is a healthy fillet all around sufficient? thanks!