mat australia sk14

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mataus
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Re: mat australia sk14

Post by mataus »

ok it has taken a while but i have the photos embedded in posts now.
I have learnt so much and have really enjoyed watching everyone else build with the photos, its just not the same without the pictures. I was feeling a little guilty that i just had links, not that i have a lot to add to the collective information on this site but hopefully someone will pick up a tip or just enjoy the photos.

as the photos show, the sole is down, fillets in and epoxy the floor. I would like to work wet on wet where possible but as i do a little at a time it is not always possible so the next step will probably be sanding for the knees and tape them in and the rub rail. Although I am thinking of flipping and starting on the outside and finishing the rest of the inside later. I am really keen to see the underside of this hull.

I have read that a chemical bond is stronger/superior to a mechanical bond, however I was wonder how important this fact was? Is it just everyone wants their boats to be as strong as possible or in say some of the larger designs would a mechanical bond not be strong enough for a particular job? Is there a measurable difference?

Jeff
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Re: mat australia sk14

Post by Jeff »

mataus, really nice work!!! Jeff

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topwater
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Re: mat australia sk14

Post by topwater »

Thats some nice looking work :!:
Novi 23 finally launched !

Eric1
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Re: mat australia sk14

Post by Eric1 »

Oh Yea, Pretty stuff!!

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cape man
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Re: mat australia sk14

Post by cape man »

I'm sure someone has a number of percent strength between the two, but on a small boat like that I can't see where it would matter. My motivation for wet on wet was more for me avoiding sanding between.
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman

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BB Sig
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Re: mat australia sk14

Post by BB Sig »

cape man wrote: Sun Jul 02, 2017 10:15 am My motivation for wet on wet was more for me avoiding sanding between.
This is my reason as well. Saves a lot of time and energy!

mataus
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Re: mat australia sk14

Post by mataus »

Yeah i am aware of the need to sand between applications for a good mechanical bond and i was just about
to make a smart remark about being early in the build and still "enjoying sanding" but i have just sanded the fillets and
particularly in the corners i think i removed as many layers of epoxy as i did skin.

mataus
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Re: mat australia sk14

Post by mataus »

Has anyone got some good tips for holding the knees in place while the epoxy sets?

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glossieblack
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Re: mat australia sk14

Post by glossieblack »

I sometimes use a hot glue gun to spot weld pieces in place, after gluing or before filleting.
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).

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Jaysen
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Re: mat australia sk14

Post by Jaysen »

Tape.

While some idiot forgot to put the knees in my boat, I did use tape to hold more than a few parts in place. Plain old masking tape works if you will be sanding it all smooth (over fill the seam to you don't get adhesive down in the epoxy).

I'd use the glue method if I actually had a glue gun the wife would let me touch. Apparently she will never forgive me for the mess I made with the last one...
My already completed 'Lil Bit'. A Martens Goosen V12 set up to sail me to the fishing holes.
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Jaysen wrote: Mon Apr 29, 2019 3:44 pm I tried to say something but God thought I was wrong and filled my mouth with saltwater. I kept my pie hole shut after that.

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