Hi Finalfront, The boat looks great. I glassed all the way up to my rails as well. I did use 6oz above the spray rail but I don't think it will make that much difference and I think the added protection from fenders and docks etc. will pay off.
Looks like you will be finished with the outside in plenty of time before the winter hits. I'm just down the road (comparatively speaking) in NH so I know the pitfalls of an uninsulated workshop. We spent a week in Belgrade at the beginning of August and have been going for the last few years. Your going to love the fairing process . Alan.
FS14 Build - Pics, etc.
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Re: FS14 Build - Pics, etc.
I think you are using 400g (12ounce?) Biaxial there, which may be overkill, but keep things in perspective. Fibreglassing an extra foot up the sides would add maybe a kg of weight a side? About 3 pounds extra. All those little bits and pieces add up, but there are worse places to overbuild than the outside fibreglass. The majority of builders seem to glass much more than required and few regret it.
Re: FS14 Build - Pics, etc.
Very nice progress, I've added you to the Build Threads page.
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Re: FS14 Build - Pics, etc.
Thanks everyone for input on my glass up the sides. had a few blisters develop about 1" to 2" in size, so i cut open and ground them flat-ish and added a fiberglass patch - of course, now the patches are quite uneven, so hoping i can level them with orbital sander enough to allow fairing to level them off.
Vacation time over, so I'm in a bit of a lull, may have to wait until spring to get going again. ugh.
Quick question regarding size of outboard:
**Can I use a 25hp 2 stroke with remote steering and electric start? - I have a line on a 2005 engine that looks great and at a good price, so i hate to lose it - I had planned a 20hp, but I want a 2 stroke, and i'm having hard time finding a 20hp.
I feel the 2 stroke will be lighter, though I'd have to stow the extra weight of the battery - but could then add a bilge.
I'm planning a small console in front of mid-seat, and hoping balance will work out too.
any comments/advice will help.
*(Stay safe to all in in FL)
wes
Vacation time over, so I'm in a bit of a lull, may have to wait until spring to get going again. ugh.
Quick question regarding size of outboard:
**Can I use a 25hp 2 stroke with remote steering and electric start? - I have a line on a 2005 engine that looks great and at a good price, so i hate to lose it - I had planned a 20hp, but I want a 2 stroke, and i'm having hard time finding a 20hp.
I feel the 2 stroke will be lighter, though I'd have to stow the extra weight of the battery - but could then add a bilge.
I'm planning a small console in front of mid-seat, and hoping balance will work out too.
any comments/advice will help.
*(Stay safe to all in in FL)
wes
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Re: FS14 Build - Pics, etc.
Thanks!bateau-webmaster wrote: ↑Tue Aug 22, 2017 11:38 am Very nice progress, I've added you to the Build Threads page.
Re: FS14 Build - Pics, etc.
finalfront the 25HP will work if you go with a console. First you will need to cut down the center seat to be equal to the height of the stringers and leave 3" up the sides. Then route chase tubes back to the aft and forward for mechanicals, lighting, fish finder, bilge pump and what ever else you need power for. Then foam the compartments. Then cover with plywood and fiberglass it. It is listed in the options that you can cover the stringers with plywood.
Tom
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: FS14 Build - Pics, etc.
Hi Tom, thanks, I was planning a small console on starboard side in front of mid-seat and run cables etc, under gunwale I plan on installing along sides bow to stern. I think the 25 may be over-power, so to speak, but the 2-stroke is only about 110 lbs, so not too heavy. I would have to put battery and gas tank under rear seat/compartment - possibly put battery (or tank) under midseat on port side for better balance?
it sounds like your suggesting replacing half of midseat with console, and sitting on rear seat.. I'd prefer to sit on midseat and put console in front of it against bow deck (I'm covering bow deck, not using casting deck), if that makes sense.
wes
it sounds like your suggesting replacing half of midseat with console, and sitting on rear seat.. I'd prefer to sit on midseat and put console in front of it against bow deck (I'm covering bow deck, not using casting deck), if that makes sense.
wes
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Re: FS14 Build - Pics, etc.
Finally getting back to my FS14 build - long winter - anyhow, I'm constructing the rub rail and wanted to be sure about whether I epoxy each layer to rail, one at a time, building it up to three layers (which seems logical), or laminate the three layers off the boat, and then add & bend as a unit (seems difficult)?
Second, is the Skeg.. true 1"x1" out of what type of wood? I assume a hard wood to take a beating and then a stainless steel strip to bottom edge? Can I use 5/4" pressure Treated ripped to 1" width - will epoxy adhere to PT??
Second, is the Skeg.. true 1"x1" out of what type of wood? I assume a hard wood to take a beating and then a stainless steel strip to bottom edge? Can I use 5/4" pressure Treated ripped to 1" width - will epoxy adhere to PT??
Re: FS14 Build - Pics, etc.
It's going to be easier to bend individual rub rail layers, but harder to clean up the edges once in place. Depending on how severe the curve and how wide the rub rail, it will vary between not too bad and practically impossible to bend the assembled rub rail.
Don't use pressure treated, and with the metal strip you can use any wood.
Don't use pressure treated, and with the metal strip you can use any wood.
Hank
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Re: FS14 Build - Pics, etc.
Thanks Hank. That was my direction. appreciate the confirmation.
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