GV10 Stop and Start Project

[Jeff]

Thank you for the response MikeyGnz!! Sounds like a solid plan!! Jeff

[Fair WX Pilot]

A question for all the GV10 owners.

The plans show the middle seat on top of frame 2. I plan to add an additional frame the width of the seat forward or back from the middle frame with the seat bridging the two frames to form a flotation chamber. If you had to move your middle seat by 140mm/5.5" would you go forward or back?

Thanks

Mike

Hi Mike, I run with my fuel tank in front of the middle seat and also my trolling motor battery mounted in the front to get as much weight forward as I can. I think the seat is about right as it is but as I normally use the boat alone and understand what you’re trying to do with the floatation chamber I would probably go forward if I had to choose. Having said that, my floatation is provided by two fiberglassed foam panels that bolt under the seats so that I can take them out for cleaning and prevent rot from setting in due to trapped moisture. What’s the specification on your material? I presume as you’re welding it you’re using aluminum and not alclad which will make it more susceptible to corrosion.

[peterrivers]

Yes I would go forward as well. My seat is bridging that frame that would be no problem to be a little bit forward I think. When rowing the passengers tend to sit in the back so you need a bit more weight forward anyway. You are welcome to come and have a look if you wish. I'm in Somerfield. Cheers Pete

[MikeyGnz]

A question for all the GV10 owners.

The plans show the middle seat on top of frame 2. I plan to add an additional frame the width of the seat forward or back from the middle frame with the seat bridging the two frames to form a flotation chamber. If you had to move your middle seat by 140mm/5.5" would you go forward or back?

Thanks

Mike

Hi Mike, I run with my fuel tank in front of the middle seat and also my trolling motor battery mounted in the front to get as much weight forward as I can. I think the seat is about right as it is but as I normally use the boat alone and understand what you’re trying to do with the floatation chamber I would probably go forward if I had to choose. Having said that, my floatation is provided by two fiberglassed foam panels that bolt under the seats so that I can take them out for cleaning and prevent rot from setting in due to trapped moisture. What’s the specification on your material? I presume as you’re welding it you’re using aluminum and not alclad which will make it more susceptible to corrosion.

Hi Alan

I'm using a mix of 5052 aluminium sheet and 6061 aluminium angle so corrosion shouldn't be an issue. I could have gone for 5083 sheet but that costs 40% more and is a bit overkill for a boat so small.

[MikeyGnz]

Time for an update. Closer inspection of my progress so far shows that I cannot cut straight. To fix tis I have re-drawn out the frame and transoms on a piece of MDF and will cut the frame sheets back to be about 5mm or 1/4" smaller than required.



To get the nice straight lines I am adding aluminium angle reinforcing to the frame sheets to bring them out to the correct dimensions.



As the joins between the bottom sheets and the transom and between the sides/bottoms and bow are not 90 degrees I am leaving them as is so the reinforcing goes on all sides of the two frames but the sides of the transom only. I'm not sure about the strength/flexibility of aluminium compared to plywood so I have also added a cross-member across the lower third of the bow sheet. There will be a piece of flat welded across the top third as well in future to mount the seat to.

So far all are cut to shape and riveted together. Anodizing scuffed off with a flap disc and all wiped down with acetone ready for welding. Now I can finally fire up the welder.

[Jeff]

Very interesting build & nice work!!! Jeff

[MikeyGnz]

Today I finally started welding. First off the bow reinforcement. I clamped the sheet down to the welding table to minimise warping and went at it. I'm a bit rusty at welding alloy so I started with this piece that will be out of sight. After welding the full length of the bottom side I decided that only a few long tacks would be needed along the top.




Transom is done as well. Getting better with every weld.

[Fuzz]

Thank you for posting this.
I know nothing about melting metal but I am enjoying seeing a build like this come together.

[TRC886]

This is an interesting project, and it's looking good

It may be too late, but for what it's worth, both of my factory tinnies have 1.5" (38 mm) clamping boards. They are not full transoms because they only go 2/3 of the way to the bottom of the hull, but they're both braced to the bottom.

[MikeyGnz]

This is an interesting project, and it's looking good

It may be too late, but for what it's worth, both of my factory tinnies have 1.5" (38 mm) clamping boards. They are not full transoms because they only go 2/3 of the way to the bottom of the hull, but they're both braced to the bottom.

The transom is something I am still working out. It is a 9 hour round trip to get to my outboard and until I can measure the shaft length I do not know exactly what transom design I will be using. I will have a clamping board of some sort, probably dressed 6 by 2 or 8 by 2 which is about 40mm thick once they dress it. I am yet to decide if the clamping board will be the full distance across the transom or If it will be in the motor area only with a couple of angle aluminium braces the whole width. If I go with the braces I can screw the clamping board to the braces and will not need to drill the transom for bolt holes.