C12 - TL70 - Brazil

[narfi]

Looking good! You are making great progress.

One trick to make the putty smoother is to use a tongue depressor (stir stick) and drag it along the corner from each side after applying the putty. The rounded end of the tongue depressor makes a very uniform fillet, pushing the lumps out of the way and filling the low spots. I usually apply a little too much putty into the corners then use this method to remove the excess.

[DuEholic]

Hi Guys,

long time we didn't connect to answer, but we are carefully considering all your advices when it comes the moment to take the decision.
Many thanks to Narfi and Eric for their precious advice.

regarding the outside butt block of the hull, we sand it, but realized we won't make it disappear that easily and won't get a smooth result so we have decided to keep it for this time. We will try to make this mistake part of the design .

Regarding the putty fillet, we had a real fight with the putty. I don't know if the fact that our wood flour wasn't as thin as flour, but with small pieces of wood, but the putty was too liquid. We have spent a long time in each seams, waiting and correcting the putty. We have used a tong depressor, even if it doesn't look like Maybe it is necessary to wait more time for the putty to solidify before applying, but then the time is really short to make the work... But the good news is that we makes it better for the bottom part of the hull....

here are some pictures of the process...

We have turned the hull and checked the dimension... And we were very happy because everything was good

We begin to sand, apply putty fillet and begin the fiberglass lamination.













Regarding the fiberglass fabric, even if our fabric was 1,3m large, we have decided to cut it because we were afraid not to be able to apply the resine correctly in suche big areas. We are aware that we are using much more fiberglass fabric than necessary and hope this won't have a negative impact ...




It is har dto see in the picture, but we are living really close to the river, so we can hopefully easily test the boat in the water







We are waiting for the hull to dry and have begin working on the Rubber and Centerboard:









We will know have to find out how to do the lead ballast with plum with sound quite challenging...

We also didn't understand yet the mechanism we need to do for the Rubber to ne locked and unlocked once installed in the boat...

Many thanks for your help and recommendations.

Até logo

[OrangeQuest]

You guys are making great progress! I think the weight of the center board holds the centerboard down so when it hits something under water it gives.

Extra glass will just mean extra epoxy and a little more weight.

[DuEholic]

Hi guys,

Thanks Orangequest

We are now waiting for the last epoxy and fiberglass part to cure... and in the meanwhile, we are working on the mast project.

Our idea is to use a sprit rig with a bamboo spars (as we can find here easily really strong giant bamboos).
However, in our plans' specifications, we just found the information for a Marconi rig and it says that for a sprit rig, all dimensions are identical.
But we are not sure about that and didn't understood... which dimensions should be identical? should we maintain the Sail Area or the luff, foot and leech? How to define how high should be our mast with a sprit rig?

Many thanks in advance

[Beto Ramos]

Bom dia, meu nome é Beto, também sou do Brasil, mais precisamente de Ipaussu interior de São Paulo, já construí várias embarcações em compensado naval com fibra de vidro e resina epoxi, caso queiram alguma dica podem me adicionar no whatsapp (14) 99773-5707, também sou velejador e remo bastante stand up paddle. Abraços

[DuEholic]

Good Morning to all!

Happy to share our progress with you. We did a little break because of epoxy overdose hehehe

We ha finally finished to fiberglass in the bottom of the hull:



We have cut the fiberglass fabric in many pieces as we didn't feel we will have the ability to deal with big piece.



We then turn the hull, check the position of frame B and seats and begin to fiberglass the inside and to install the seat C. Today we will install the seat A.

















We are now studying the mast and lifting system for the centerboard...

regarding the mast, we are considering a bamboo mast as used by brasilan embarcation "Jangada Cearense" or "outrigger canoa" as we bought some wood to test but it is really heavy and look for a lighter solution and also a shorter one.
Jacques, what would be the impact of the shorter mast on this project. We are thinking of a mast that wont exceed the boat size.
Someone have some recommendations for this sail? As the mast will be shorter, should we consider the sail to be larger?







Regarding the lifting system, which material is recommended to be used for the painter (lifting line)?

Many thanks in advance and great day to all of you

Du & Audrey

[Reid]

The build is coming together nicely!!! Keep up the good work.

Here is the email questions you sent me today. I am going to rely on Jacques to provide some feedback.
Talk to you soon,
Reid

We are continuing our construction and are now dealing with the mast and lifting system of the centerboard.

We found of the website the tutorial of the Centerboard Lifting System for small boat but are wondering if it does exist a more complete document for this installation. We are not sure about the painter (lifting line) to be used. Is it a line or a piece of metal?

And regarding the mast, we are considering to use bamboo, as it is really abundant here around (Brasil) and has been used in a lot of local embarcation. Do you have some recommendation regarding the use of bamboo. Also this will impact the high of the mast. Probably shorter than in the original project.

Finally, one more question regarding the position of the centerboard in the centerboard trunk. Once in the water, we imagine that the centerboard will do a 90° angle with the boat. We already did the centerboard/trunk mechanism but before installing it on the hull, we want to make sure that the position of the opened CB in the water will be correct. Because when we manually test the system, the angle of the opened CB with the CB trunk is around 120°, it opens more that 90°. Should we think of a solution to block the CB in the 90°angle position. If yes, how can we make it?

Many thanks in advance for your time and recommendations.

Kind Regards,

Audrey and Durval

[jacquesmm]

About the painter. It is just a cable or even a metal rod. I prefer a cable (line, rope). It's attached to the CB and goes through a hole with slot like this:
http://bateau2.com/howto/centreboard.php

Bamboo mast: that will not work, sorry.

For the CB being able to swing 120 degrees, the solution is simple: adjust the length of the painter (lifting rope) so that it does not go further than 80 degrees.

[DuEholic]

Many thanks Jacques.

We had seen the tutorial for the lifting system and thought we we’re missing something but with your answer we understood that it is more simple that we thought.

Regarding the bamboo mast, could you just explain why you say it won’t work?
We really have no idea, but are studying a lot about this possibility, so any additional information is really relevant for us?

Many thanks in advance and enjoy your holidays

Kind regards

[DuEholic]

Centerboard successfully installed

we first check the centerboard and centerboard trunk mechanism was working fine







and adjust the frame to position the centerboad trunk in the middle...







... till everything was well aligned...





We then have marked with tape the hole to be cut...







and cut it ...this step is quite scary....







and the result



We finally fixed the centerboard with fillet and fiberglass tape









Regarding this step, we now just need to finalize the least ballast part of the centerboard...



... and fixed the centerboard with the pivot in the trunk once it will be dried...