Days 15, 16 & 17
Layed down the biaxial tape along all the seams, then covered the entire bottom hull with biaxial cloth, and then covered the entire hull with 4oz woven cloth.
After removing the stitches, I filled in the rest of the holes with thickened (wood flour) epoxy. Then I measured out the 6" biaxial tape:
A few hours later, and everything was taped up:
A close-up of the seam:
The next day I layed out the biaxial cloth to cover everything. I did one single piece for both bottom panels, and then cut another run of cloth in half to coat each side panel:
The bottom piece had enough width to also cover the bow:
Fully coated. I wasn't being frugal at all with my epoxy amounts, figuring this is where the strength in the hull is coming from. But this used A LOT of epoxy to get the glass fully saturated.
A close-up of the biaxial cloth-- I really like the compound curves at this point of the bow too.
The next day I covered the bottom with 4oz woven cloth. I did this to give it an extra layer of glass, and hopefully help with the fairing process. I also cut the cloth differently -- I ran an overlap at the centerline out to the gunwales. The thinking here is that I would have different seams no the different layers. Don't know if it matters, but it seemed like a good idea.
From the transom:
Rolling up each of the pieces of cloth:
And glassed:
There were a couple bubbles that formed on the edges of the cloth, but overall I like how it turned out. It's much smoother than at the biaxial stage:
This week I start to fair. I'm going to try to fair with phenolic microballoons for the first time -- haven't used those to make a fairing compound before. I also have some total-fair from ToatalBoat if it goes to #@(#^ though. Primer is on the way, so hopefully I can get a couple rounds of fairing done this week.
Mattkab's GV13
Re: Mattkab's GV13
looks great
good call on extra glass if you plan to over power
sand real well before applying any fairing compound concentrate sanding on seams 40 grit is ok to start
good call on extra glass if you plan to over power
sand real well before applying any fairing compound concentrate sanding on seams 40 grit is ok to start
- mattkab
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Re: Mattkab's GV13
Days 21, 22, 23 & 24
But what happened to days 18, 19, and 20? Well, we'll come back to those later.
This post jumps ahead a few days to where I needed to.... Adapt? Improvise? Modify my plan? Ah, hell, we'll call it like it is: I screwed up and I needed to fix the problem.
I wasn't actually going to put spray rails on this boat, but after reading other posts on the GV-11 and GV-13 builds where they were raved about, I decided to add them. I ripped some 1x2s at a 45 degree angle, and glued them to the chine from bow to stern, using some wood screws to hold it in place. It took some elbow grease and more than a couple screws to get the rails in place, but in the end it looked pretty good. I took a picture and locked up the garage:
The next morning I came out to check on it, but the spray rails had split just forward of the hull panel splices, on both sides, and then the epoxy cured. It looked like the boat had curb feelers I couldn't bring myself to take a picture...
Then I started on the repair... I cut back the rails to where they were still attached to the hull -- but there was still split and damaged rails at that point. I cut a few smaller pieces of 1x2, and with a planer and a shurform, rough-shaped the rails. I needed to do something to fair the transition, so I ran a seam of 4" woven tape leftover from a previous build. Once it dried I ran a few more passes of the planer and the Shurform. At least had a continous spray rail again:
Then I created a few batches of epoxy thickened with wood filler, and tried to fill in the seams, holes, cracks, etc:
Then it was time to break out the Surform, and plane the rails back into shape by eye. This took more than a few hours, and another round of thickened epoxy. Or two:
After a few days, I had something approximating the original shape of the rail:
...on both sides of the hull. It looks... ok.
The transition from hull to rail on the bottom feels really smooth now. I'll need to do a non-structural fillet on the top side of the rail (bottom as she sits now, upside down), but for the most part I've recovered. I need to remember, it's a boat; it's not going to Mars.
But what happened to days 18, 19, and 20? Well, we'll come back to those later.
This post jumps ahead a few days to where I needed to.... Adapt? Improvise? Modify my plan? Ah, hell, we'll call it like it is: I screwed up and I needed to fix the problem.
I wasn't actually going to put spray rails on this boat, but after reading other posts on the GV-11 and GV-13 builds where they were raved about, I decided to add them. I ripped some 1x2s at a 45 degree angle, and glued them to the chine from bow to stern, using some wood screws to hold it in place. It took some elbow grease and more than a couple screws to get the rails in place, but in the end it looked pretty good. I took a picture and locked up the garage:
The next morning I came out to check on it, but the spray rails had split just forward of the hull panel splices, on both sides, and then the epoxy cured. It looked like the boat had curb feelers I couldn't bring myself to take a picture...
Then I started on the repair... I cut back the rails to where they were still attached to the hull -- but there was still split and damaged rails at that point. I cut a few smaller pieces of 1x2, and with a planer and a shurform, rough-shaped the rails. I needed to do something to fair the transition, so I ran a seam of 4" woven tape leftover from a previous build. Once it dried I ran a few more passes of the planer and the Shurform. At least had a continous spray rail again:
Then I created a few batches of epoxy thickened with wood filler, and tried to fill in the seams, holes, cracks, etc:
Then it was time to break out the Surform, and plane the rails back into shape by eye. This took more than a few hours, and another round of thickened epoxy. Or two:
After a few days, I had something approximating the original shape of the rail:
...on both sides of the hull. It looks... ok.
The transition from hull to rail on the bottom feels really smooth now. I'll need to do a non-structural fillet on the top side of the rail (bottom as she sits now, upside down), but for the most part I've recovered. I need to remember, it's a boat; it's not going to Mars.
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Re: Mattkab's GV13
Good recovery! That is one of the best parts about this style of building. About the only screw up that can not be fixed is using cheap plywood for the hull.
Re: Mattkab's GV13
That does look good. In hindsight, would it have been quicker to remove it all and start again? In any case, it looks good now!
Hank
- mattkab
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Re: Mattkab's GV13
Yes, but I didn't have any 1x2s left, and thought I could recover with the pieces I had.
What I think I really should have done was use a better hardwood that wouldn't split. With the stuff I had on hand, I should have cut the spray rail into 3 or 4 pieces to relieve some of the pressure on the bends and then just fill the spaces with thickened epoxy. I thought having a continuous piece would be helpful to get a smoother curve.
Re: Mattkab's GV13
Or you could have kerfed the wood.mattkab wrote: ↑Tue May 19, 2020 11:36 amYes, but I didn't have any 1x2s left, and thought I could recover with the pieces I had.
What I think I really should have done was use a better hardwood that wouldn't split. With the stuff I had on hand, I should have cut the spray rail into 3 or 4 pieces to relieve some of the pressure on the bends and then just fill the spaces with thickened epoxy. I thought having a continuous piece would be helpful to get a smoother curve.
Kerf the wood, fill the kerfs with thickened epoxy, then add thickened epoxy the surface it's joining too and screw it in place. Scrap off the epoxy that squeezes out from the kerf joints before it hardens. Wait for it to cure and then take the screws out.
Eric (aka, piperdown)
"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain
"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain
- mattkab
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Re: Mattkab's GV13
Yes.piperdown wrote: ↑Tue May 19, 2020 2:50 pmOr you could have kerfed the wood.mattkab wrote: ↑Tue May 19, 2020 11:36 amYes, but I didn't have any 1x2s left, and thought I could recover with the pieces I had.
What I think I really should have done was use a better hardwood that wouldn't split. With the stuff I had on hand, I should have cut the spray rail into 3 or 4 pieces to relieve some of the pressure on the bends and then just fill the spaces with thickened epoxy. I thought having a continuous piece would be helpful to get a smoother curve.
Kerf the wood, fill the kerfs with thickened epoxy, then add thickened epoxy the surface it's joining too and screw it in place. Scrap off the epoxy that squeezes out from the kerf joints before it hardens. Wait for it to cure and then take the screws out.
Anyone else that is about to run into this... do that!
- Jaysen
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Re: Mattkab's GV13
Or, if you are a masochist... STEAM BEND!
Seriously... steam bending is amazing if you have the patience. Long 4" pvc. Cap ends with clean out fittings. T in middle. Feed steam in at the T.
Wood is amazing stuff.
Seriously... steam bending is amazing if you have the patience. Long 4" pvc. Cap ends with clean out fittings. T in middle. Feed steam in at the T.
Wood is amazing stuff.
Re: Mattkab's GV13
Seems like an awful lot of work for just 2 pieces of narrow wood that can be kerfed and just as strong as a steam bent. Plus a bunch of extra equipment left over that may never get used again.
Eric (aka, piperdown)
"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain
"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain
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