Thanks everybody. Looked at the boat during lunch and found a bad spot.... As I was getting towards the end last night, I needed to wet out one last section of fiberglass. I knew my epoxy was getting really hot and that I probably shouldn't use it. But I used it anyways and the fiberglass didn't get fully wetted. It looks like the epoxy became a gel and the fiberglass is dry below.
I am really concerned about this and kicking myself for not making more epoxy. I think I need to sand it off and put a patch fiberglass piece here which is going to be a nightmare to fair....
Picture included below. Advice on this would be great!
SK14 in TX
Re: SK14 in TX
I have also been using a bubble roller to smooth out the fiberglass as I've been working. The problem is that the epoxy dries on the roller and salvaging them is hard. Do others use a bubble roller? If so, how are y'all cleaning them?
Thanks for all the help and encouragement thus far!! I am really learning a lot and enjoying this project. Gig 'em
Thanks for all the help and encouragement thus far!! I am really learning a lot and enjoying this project. Gig 'em
Re: SK14 in TX
Fuzz, I like the idea to chamfer the rubrail. I was actually thinking that edge looked really sharp as I was working on the fiberglass! How do you think I should do this? I am thinking I could do it with a plane but I'm not sure how well I would be able to do it by hand...
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Re: SK14 in TX
Boats looking good!AggieGirl wrote: ↑Mon Sep 14, 2020 7:09 pm I have also been using a bubble roller to smooth out the fiberglass as I've been working. The problem is that the epoxy dries on the roller and salvaging them is hard. Do others use a bubble roller? If so, how are y'all cleaning them? IMG-4026.jpg
Thanks for all the help and encouragement thus far!! I am really learning a lot and enjoying this project. Gig 'em
Reid told me his trick the other day and it worked great. Some of it is my adaptation...
Use a 2 gallon paint bucket that has a lid. I poured a half gallon of denatured alcohol in and then between use on the job, leave in the bucket. I noticed that swishing it around when I put it in the bucket and before pulling it out worked to keep it clean. Before using it on the same job, shake it off for 10 - 20 seconds and it's reasy for use.
After you're done for the day, make sure to swish it good and clean then put it away. Put the lid on the bucket and it keeps the alchohol from evaporating.
Thanks Reid for the tip!
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Re: SK14 in TX
On the rubrail either a router or a hand plane would work.
Sorry to say but the bad spot needs to come off. If it is that dry it is not stuck very well. Make your patch just a little bigger and then sand off the high spots. No more than what you have it will not take much to sand it smooth. Don't beat yourself up over the boo-boo, we all make them time to time, and that is not all that bad Better to learn on something easy to fix
Sorry to say but the bad spot needs to come off. If it is that dry it is not stuck very well. Make your patch just a little bigger and then sand off the high spots. No more than what you have it will not take much to sand it smooth. Don't beat yourself up over the boo-boo, we all make them time to time, and that is not all that bad Better to learn on something easy to fix
Re: SK14 in TX
If your bubble buster has dried/set epoxy on it you can get it loose with heat, either a heat gun or a torch. Best done outside for good ventilation, get it hot and the epoxy will soften and fail.
Hank
Re: SK14 in TX
Fiberglass patch got done last night. The deck and transom got glassed tonight. Pictures below.
Looking ahead, I will be fairing soon. What consistency should I be going for when mixing the fairing compound? Thanks everybody!
Looking ahead, I will be fairing soon. What consistency should I be going for when mixing the fairing compound? Thanks everybody!
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Re: SK14 in TX
What fairing compound are you asking about? The BBC mix or something like Quickfair? If the BBC then the old master always liked to use a pretty lose mix for the first pass. Larry felt like it filled the weave better that way. The following passes need to be stiff enough to not be runny and sag on you.
Re: SK14 in TX
Id say rounding any edges (at least most) is gonna be a good idea ... Airplane make quick work - then just clean up with paper looks greatAggieGirl wrote: ↑Mon Sep 14, 2020 7:16 pm Fuzz, I like the idea to chamfer the rubrail. I was actually thinking that edge looked really sharp as I was working on the fiberglass! How do you think I should do this? I am thinking I could do it with a plane but I'm not sure how well I would be able to do it by hand...
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Re: SK14 in TX
Very nice work, i hope i can do as well on mine. I have to ask, does everyone glass the Sole like that? i see it gets a coat of epoxy resin but fiberglass too?
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