SK14 in TX
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- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
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Re: SK14 in TX
I do not see to the problem. I would not worry about it now. When you go to glue things together you can fill any low spots then. This style of building is very forgiving. Small gaps are good
- OrangeQuest
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Re: SK14 in TX
Yes, what Fuzz stated. You can fill in where the ply was pulled up later. Everything is looking good. I little tape where the clamp meets the wood will give you something the glue holds onto but you can remove the clamp without taking bits of the wood with it. Then just sand it down smooth. Wrap the tips of the clamps in tape before use. The silicon rubber tips are also useful but slip off and then hide all the time.
Think not having enough clamps is an issue, wait till you start sanding and think you have enough sandpaper!
Think not having enough clamps is an issue, wait till you start sanding and think you have enough sandpaper!
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
A. A. Milne
A. A. Milne
Re: SK14 in TX
AggieGirl,
Looks good so far! Nice progress!!
Don't worry too much about the transom issue. If you want, you can fix it now before you hang the transom. Just mix up a little woodflour and epoxy, fill those spots and sand them level.
Going forward, remember, the cleaner you work the less sanding/fairing you will need to do later!!! Think about your next few steps. Once you get the hull stitched together, run really small "tack weld" fillets. Make them small enough so you can go over them with a full fillet later. Try to work wet-on -wet when you lay down your fillets and fiberglass tape on the seams. This will save you a lot of time. (don't forget to always pre-wet your wood before fillets).
Lastly, while you still have your hull panels on the ground, trace your sheer line. You will need this when you cut your wooden rubrail. The rubrail needs to follow the same sheer line as the hull panels. If you rip straight pieces for your rubrail later they will not sit flush against your hull due to the compound curves of the hull panels.
Good luck!
-Reid
Looks good so far! Nice progress!!
Don't worry too much about the transom issue. If you want, you can fix it now before you hang the transom. Just mix up a little woodflour and epoxy, fill those spots and sand them level.
Going forward, remember, the cleaner you work the less sanding/fairing you will need to do later!!! Think about your next few steps. Once you get the hull stitched together, run really small "tack weld" fillets. Make them small enough so you can go over them with a full fillet later. Try to work wet-on -wet when you lay down your fillets and fiberglass tape on the seams. This will save you a lot of time. (don't forget to always pre-wet your wood before fillets).
Lastly, while you still have your hull panels on the ground, trace your sheer line. You will need this when you cut your wooden rubrail. The rubrail needs to follow the same sheer line as the hull panels. If you rip straight pieces for your rubrail later they will not sit flush against your hull due to the compound curves of the hull panels.
Good luck!
-Reid
Someone asked me, if I were stranded on a desert island what book would I bring... "How to Build a Boat."
- Steven Wright
- Steven Wright
Re: SK14 in TX
Thanks everyone for the help so far! I made some more progress tonight. I got pieces sanded and then stitched together. There is actually a boat-shaped object in my garage right now!! Super satisfying to see it starting to come together.
First I got the bottom stitched up and put one of the side pieces on. Something about this first side piece wasn't looking right to me and as I started to stitch the second side piece, I realized I put the first one on upside down. I am so glad I noticed that mistake tonight. I pulled off that piece and got everything oriented correctly. Pictures included below.
Here's the hull bottom stitched together.
Here's the side on upside down.
Here's the final product. All pieces on correctly.
First I got the bottom stitched up and put one of the side pieces on. Something about this first side piece wasn't looking right to me and as I started to stitch the second side piece, I realized I put the first one on upside down. I am so glad I noticed that mistake tonight. I pulled off that piece and got everything oriented correctly. Pictures included below.
Here's the hull bottom stitched together.
Here's the side on upside down.
Here's the final product. All pieces on correctly.
Re: SK14 in TX
Nice progress AggieGirl!! Your SK14 almost looks like a boat!! Jeff
Re: SK14 in TX
Transom is attached and final stitching is in! Pictures included below.
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- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
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- Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 4:23 am
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Re: SK14 in TX
Dang great progress Now you really have a boat looking thing
I dont see any gaps in a lot of your work. Might need to put some spacer Is in to get a little gap for the epoxy puddy.
I hope those who have built one like yours will chime in with firsthand knowledge.
I dont see any gaps in a lot of your work. Might need to put some spacer Is in to get a little gap for the epoxy puddy.
I hope those who have built one like yours will chime in with firsthand knowledge.
Re: SK14 in TX
AggieGirl,
Looks pretty good so far!
Like Fuzz said, you need to add some spacers between your panels. There should be spacing in between every seam. This allows the fillet to do its job and join the seams. You may have read in the plans or on the Forum that you need to avoid "Hard spots". This is when plywood touches plywood. Epoxy fillets act as a bonding agent for the panels but also acts as a shock absorber between the panels. I like to use 16 penny nails as spacers.
Also, you might want to consider adding some additional zip ties in the bow, this will help bring those panels together. IMO, you need to try and achieve a 1/8" (+ or -) gap between panels.
Lastly, apply some painters tape to the outside seams. This will stop any fillets from going through and creating more work for you when you flip the hull.
Keep up the good work!
-Reid
Looks pretty good so far!
Like Fuzz said, you need to add some spacers between your panels. There should be spacing in between every seam. This allows the fillet to do its job and join the seams. You may have read in the plans or on the Forum that you need to avoid "Hard spots". This is when plywood touches plywood. Epoxy fillets act as a bonding agent for the panels but also acts as a shock absorber between the panels. I like to use 16 penny nails as spacers.
Also, you might want to consider adding some additional zip ties in the bow, this will help bring those panels together. IMO, you need to try and achieve a 1/8" (+ or -) gap between panels.
Lastly, apply some painters tape to the outside seams. This will stop any fillets from going through and creating more work for you when you flip the hull.
Keep up the good work!
-Reid
Someone asked me, if I were stranded on a desert island what book would I bring... "How to Build a Boat."
- Steven Wright
- Steven Wright
Re: SK14 in TX
I got the bow stitched up a bit tighter tonight. Added a few more holes for zip ties. Does this look better to y'all? Can I use the painters tape trick at the bow or should I keep working to get it even closer together? Thanks for the input! Updated pictures of the bow included below.
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- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
- Posts: 8921
- Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 4:23 am
- Location: Kasilof, Alaska
Re: SK14 in TX
I know this is not what you want to hear and it will feel like you are going backwards.
You really need to cut the ties one at a time and put spacers in. In this type of construction gaps are good. The last picture clearly shows panels that are hard against others and one is trying to ride up over the next one. You need a gap to get a seal coat of epoxy in there and then fill with epoxy. As for the gap in the bow yes you can tape over the gap and fill with epoxy puddy. It is amazing how big of a gap you can fill. Also at the bow there will be a number of glass layers so it will be plenty strong.
You really need to cut the ties one at a time and put spacers in. In this type of construction gaps are good. The last picture clearly shows panels that are hard against others and one is trying to ride up over the next one. You need a gap to get a seal coat of epoxy in there and then fill with epoxy. As for the gap in the bow yes you can tape over the gap and fill with epoxy puddy. It is amazing how big of a gap you can fill. Also at the bow there will be a number of glass layers so it will be plenty strong.
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