Plyak12 build by gbgb

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gbgb
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Re: Plyak12 build by gbgb

Post by gbgb »

could you do a foam or honeycomb sole? (not sure what materials you have access to)
I will not look for "exotic" solutions, and there is also the issue of appearance (I am thinking of leaving the natural look of the plywood - painting later is always possible).
My current thought is to see if I have enough material left to make it from 2-3 pieces of the 4mm Okume + glassing the whole surface + 2-3 crosswise wood braces. I think this will bring it to a sufficient strength, considering that the volume under the sole is filled with foam and provide some support. Just need to check the weights in detail, but I think this will give a 1.5 kg weight reduction.

gbgb
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Re: Plyak12 build by gbgb

Post by gbgb »

completed the seams, sanded them and rounded the chines, glassed the bottom.
~6 hours.
I was a bit concerned when I glassed the bottom that I did not apply enough epoxy. Although the cloth was fully transparent and adhered to the body it looked a bit "dry". After checking here and viewing some videos, and since the epoxy was still wet, I decided to apply another thin layer. I can still feel and see the weave.
Ready for glassing the bottom
Ready for glassing the bottom
Bottom glassed
Bottom glassed

Fuzz
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Re: Plyak12 build by gbgb

Post by Fuzz »

If the resin is still not fully cured you can go ahead a lay a thin layer of fairing mix on it to fill the weave now. That is if you are sure you will not need to add more glass to where you are putting the fairing mix. And make sure the fairing mix is compatible with the resin you are using.

gbgb
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Re: Plyak12 build by gbgb

Post by gbgb »

Yesterday flipped the boat and spot welded the deck. Today completed the seams and taped.
Total ~ 1 hour

20200803_Deck_Seams_and_Tape2.jpg

gbgb
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Re: Plyak12 build by gbgb

Post by gbgb »

Deck outer seams cured.
Removed the deck and the frames. Used the frames as templates and using electric wire brought it back to the correct angle.
Made a small fillet and taped the inner side of the deck. After it dured it sems that it is impossible to get it out of shape, but will keep the wire until I put it back on the hull.
Taped deck
Taped deck
Holes were drilled for the handles rope, PVC pipe inserted and everything covered by epoxy filling at the bow and stern. After everything cured the pipe was sanded flush with the panel. Need to chamfer the inner edges and some final touches - will be done before glassing the deck.
20200804_Handles_Hole.jpg
20200805_Handles_Hole_Flush.jpg


Next the hull inside was glassed. There is a discussion about this in the technical section but to summarize - I realized that I do not have enough cloth to cover both the inside and the deck with a single piece of cloth. So the decision was made to keep enough material to cover the deck as one piece, for appearance purpose, and for the inside tape the seams and cover the bottom in two pieces.
This was done in a single long session: prime the seams area, make fillets, apply the tape and wet it, apply the cloth and wet it. Some material was still missing for full coverage so I decided to skimp on the stern and make sure that the front side gets fully covered, since the stern is more solid (2 frames and the skeg). The front was glassed and the extra cloth from the narrow bow area was used to cover the stern area, but with little to no overlap to the sides.
cloth covers the front in full
cloth covers the front in full
Glassed - at the rear it can be seen that there is no overlap to the sides
Glassed - at the rear it can be seen that there is no overlap to the sides

Tomorrow I will get another sheet of 4mm Okume, should have done it in the first place instead of buying the birch. The birch is so heavy and I already made the decision to make the sole out of Okume. It is doable, but only by joining several strips, so I decided to get another sheet, make the sole of one piece and also replace the frames with Okume. for the frames I will laminate 2 layers - one will be a full layer and the other will have some cutouts - this will bring it to the weight and strength of a 6mm piece.

~6 hours

gbgb
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Re: Plyak12 build by gbgb

Post by gbgb »

Completed my small "detour" of doing again the frames. I an happy with the results - frames are 20% lighter (although the thickness is mostly 8mm) and look better.
20200806_ne_frames_parts.jpg
20200808_new_frames.jpg
After completing the frames I dry fitted them to the hull, put again the deck to make sure everything is OK. I noticed that there are some places between the frames, where due to the rigidity (or maybe flexibility) of the shear clamp, and also due to a small error in cutting the deck at a certain location, the deck edges do not meet exactly the hull sides. This means that during the gluing of the deck to the hull I will have to apply some force to bring them in line. It is not much, easily done by hand, only think is how to keep it there until the epoxy cures. Clamps are an option but they should be both long and a have deep throat, something that I do not have. I came up with the following idea - since there are still the holes of the stitches, which can wait with plugging, I inserted a rigid conductor electrical wire, folded in two and secured at each end to a piece of wood - rotating the pieces of wood shortens the wire and applies the required force to bring the hull sides to the desired shape.
20200808_Tensioner.jpg
Once I tested this solution I went ahead with epoxying the frames to the hull. Since I do not have access to wood flour I am using mainly silica for thickening and microbaloons for some volume. However for visible connections and fillets I make my own wood flour by simply sanding scrap pieces of the plywood and collecting the dust. The purpose of this dust is only for pigmentation - I still use the silica, which dries to a translucent color and eliminate the microbaloons, because they give a very bright white color. This is why the middle frame seen in the photo is now epoxied only at the bottom.
20200808_frames_Installed.jpg
~6 hours

Jeff
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Re: Plyak12 build by gbgb

Post by Jeff »

Nice progress!! Jeff

gbgb
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Re: Plyak12 build by gbgb

Post by gbgb »

Nice progress!! Jeff
Thanks, I hope I will not get caught in the 80/20 syndrome.
I was a bit busy and weather is too hot to work during the day, so I am working in short sessions during the early morning and evening. Still hope to complete the boat by the end of the month or so.

Turned the hull and attached the skeg. Also glassed the bow and stern.
20200811_skeg.jpg
20200811_bow_glassed.jpg
Cut the inside trim of the hatch from remaining 4 mm plywood off-cuts (they can be seen in the photo above at the left of the boat), Gave it a rough contour, epoxied it to the inside of the hatch. When it will cure I will sand it to the exact contour. My plan is to attach such a trim at the outside of the hatch cover, which will shed water and provide some water tightness when strapped down (maybe will also make a RTV silicone gasket).

Also attached the cleats for the front and back of the sole. Next will bew the sole design and implementation, which will be 4mm + some strengthening braces. I will make it sturdy enough so no foam will be under the sole.
Decided not to use foam at all as I want to keep the weight to minimum. I will vent the compartments ans add drain plugs where necessary.
20200812_hatch_trim.jpg
~2 hours

Fuzz
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Re: Plyak12 build by gbgb

Post by Fuzz »

Good progress. As long as you do something, no matter how small, each day the project will not stall.

gbgb
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Re: Plyak12 build by gbgb

Post by gbgb »

Built the Okume sole. Cut the panel made a double layer at the perimeter and added 3 braces. Checked the result but it felt a bit tender between the braces so added another partial layer of plywood between the braces, except the front part (it is covered by the hatch opening so nobody can step there or sit there). The weight reduction is not as I expected - only 500 gr compared to the wishful 1kg, however it is much nicer and much stiffer than the 6mm birch sole plate.
20200815_sole.jpg
dry fitted the sole - I noticed that I made a mistake with the height of supporting cleats on one side - for some reason the front cleat dropped on one side and since I used it as a reference point for the side cleats everything on that side was wrong (I suspect that the masking tape did not hold it good enough, and I did not notice the drop). Removed the cleats using a multi-tool and reinstalled them correctly. Once everything cured I installed the sole
20200815_sole_install.jpg
~6 hours

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