FL14 "Robjack" update

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Steve_MA
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Post by Steve_MA »

Image
[img]http://gallery.bateau2.com%20displayimage.php?album=238&pos=1[/img]

Lets try these images again....they dont show in the preview, but maybe they dont ....

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Steve_MA
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Post by Steve_MA »

Oh well, one more time... :oops:

this link works http://photos.yahoo.com/eabsjw

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Steve_MA
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01/11 status

Post by Steve_MA »

Build status...
Image
I ran out of wood flour so I didnt get all the inside seams taped. Learned as i went of course. No huge mistakes yet. Help has been great. This thing is getting solid as a rock. Is going to be a great boat; its bigger than I expected. Used my last wood flour and some silica on the last seams. It was definitely smoother paste, but under the tape, I dont know if it makes a diff. Using plastic minifibers to paste the rubrail, since I have some. That seems to have worked nicely; mixed about 3oz epoxy with 3oz by volume of filler (loosely packed).

Should I bring the rubrail all the way around the bow (as I see the KentXX galllery picture? Looks like the design shows it that way. I was going to leave it short an inch or so and feather it to meet the bow. Is this a builders choice or is there a "right" way to do it?

I duct taped and tabbed a 1/4" dowel to the bow to give me something to round the tape over. This will go on tomorrow then I will put the last strip of the first layer of rubrail.

I am going to have a big breasthook, so we can jump off it into the water. I could put a couple screws in and cover them with the last strip of rubrail or just epoxy and fillet underneath. Epoxy is probably strong enough....haven't decided.

Seems like I am putting lots of hours in now....up to about 50 total. Cant wait to get it flipped and see what the hull looks like.

Process: flip, prep the hull, tape the chine, 9oz cloth on the bottom, 4oz cloth on the sides. I am thinking to bring the 9oz cloth over the chine and up the side about 4 inches, then bring the cloth down from the rubrail to about where the tape starts. This will give me a step from 4oz cloth, to 4oz + 9oz, then to 9oz cloth + tape. Seems like a smooth transition.

If any with experience have comments, warnings, recomendations, I am all ears!

(Still thinking about drainage and seats/storage). Shipment of supplies on tthe way.....

Mike Adams
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Post by Mike Adams »

Lookin' good, Steve! :)
We seem to be at a very similar stage (see tonight's post on my FL14 thread). I'm glad I took your advice about using cable ties instead of screws - it made things a lot easier than they would otherwise have been.

I reckon I've spent about 13 or 14 hours on building so far - plus several more hours cleaning up, etc. :roll:

Keep on building!
FL14 "Lake Dreamer" built.

PJPiercey
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Post by PJPiercey »

If you are going to be standing on the breasthook I would recomend 6 oz tape around the fillet seam on top.

Progress looks great :!: Keep the pictures coming.

Paul Piercey

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FL14 in Woburn

Post by mpacek »

It must be nice to have a heated space to work in. I am at the point you are
at and have been for about a month but am waiting for a little wamer day to glass the hull. I am using 6 oz on sides and bottom. I am planning to add rub rail, skeg and runners after glass. Looks great Steve :D

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Post by Steve_MA »

Hmm... I wasnt thinking about a fillet on top of the breasthook. its going to be flush with the rubrail so its smooth on top. I will fillet underneath with 9oz tape assuming I have a few inches left. The top will be covered with 4oz cloth. I think that ought to do it.

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Post by Steve_MA »

Put in another couple hours. Decided "to get on with it" and just do the rubrail around the bow with 1/4 ply. What cinched it was that I has a compound mitre saw that I have never used and after puzzling for quite a while I was able to make the right cuts.
Here are some pics of the dry fit
ImageImage

There must be an easier way, but I dont know what it is......it was a complicated setup on the saw.
Image

The other thing I did was work on the bow. With the dowel installed, I need to fill in around it and put tape on. I wasnt able to do that all at once because I kept getting alot of air bubbles around the dowel.
Image
All this needs to be filled in *first*. So I wasted my first piece of tape. I filled in around the dowel with putty. Once that dries, I shouldnt have to worry about air bubbles. I will just apply some thick glue and make sure its shaped nicely before putting on the tape.

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JeffS
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Post by JeffS »

You could glue the rub rail on to one side and leave them long. Once the glue sets use a hand saw to trim them flush. Then glue on the other side and once set trim with a hand saw. You get a lap at the point when you do that. Not important if it is going to be painted You will never see it. If you are going wit the varnished wood look you might not want to do it this way.

Jeff

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Post by Mike Adams »

It may not be a good idea to glue rubrails in place only on one side at a time - this could cause some hull distortion. Somewhere else on this forum (can't remember where) Jacques recommends glueing rubrails to both sides simultaneously to avoid this problem.
FL14 "Lake Dreamer" built.

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