N-7 nutshell Build

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Lackofdistinction
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N-7 nutshell Build

Post by Lackofdistinction »

Just started my nutshell build and was transfering dimensions to the plywood.
Was reading ahead and noticed that once I stitched the sides to the transom and had the form of the boat I was supposed to lay this atop the a sheet of plywood and trace the Sole.

My question is do I want to trace around the outside of the hull when transfering my lines or around the Inside?
Hope I am making this clear.

Your opinions would be greatly appreciated.

I can see a few pro's and con's to either way.

Josh :D


"Off Fighting Windmills."

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BilltheCat
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Post by BilltheCat »

I traced on the inside and cut to the line, but could still see the line on my N7. It leaves a nice right angle groove to hold the woodflour-epoxy fillet and then round it off pior to taping.

Dave

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Lackofdistinction
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Post by Lackofdistinction »

She's Stitched up and ready for Epoxy Pic's Coming Soon.
Had one little pitfall with a mis-measurement but, all and all very easy build took me about 2 hours to lay out the dimensions and cut.
As well as a hour or so to stitch up.
Great Confidence builder. I read Blue Prints more often than I would like to and most everything uses right angle's (90%)
The boat plans were very easy to wrap your mind around once you layed them out on the plywood. I used a peice of 1/2 inch PVC as a guide for my arc's. This worked quit well and produced the perfect amount of camber. 8)

I am sure yall will get a good laugh!

josh

OD-18 Starting to look more like a reality.
Until I got the urge to go look at paints.
Talk about overwhelming! :help:
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Lackofdistinction
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Post by Lackofdistinction »

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Lackofdistinction
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Post by Lackofdistinction »

I have put the spot welds on the hull and have removed the stitch's I am not sure if I need to build the Fillets and then immediatly lay my glass on the fillets or can I do the Fillets and come back later and recoat with epoxy and then lay my fiberglass tape.

Thanks just a little mixed up after reading the tutorial's.
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tech_support
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Post by tech_support »

Its a lot faster and you get better result from working "wet on wet". Make a fillet, let it get a little hard, then lay the tape over it and wet the tape out. :D

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Post by ArizonaBuilder »

Shine wrote:Its a lot faster and you get better result from working "wet on wet". Make a fillet, let it get a little hard, then lay the tape over it and wet the tape out. :D
or you can wet the tape out on a table covered in plastic and put the wet tape over the fillet.

Sometimes it is easier to wet out the tape on a flat surface..

Your choice.
Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.
-- Benjamin Franklin

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Lackofdistinction
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Post by Lackofdistinction »

Thanks Guys
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Post by Lackofdistinction »

Hulls done built the seats and glueing blocks in place for the seats.
Decided to add to additional skegs running the length of the boat.

Hope this will save the hull from a oyster expedition or two.
The oysters down here are like razors.

Any recommendations on paints?

I was thinking the two part brightside interluxe anybody have any experience with this paint?

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Post by ks8 »

The interlux products are solvent based. Roll and tip and have lots of ventilation. Don't even think about spraying it unless you really know what you are doing and have spark free active ventialtion and proper respirator system.

The System Three LPU is water base and does not have the flamability and toxicity risk of solvent based topsides paints. If spraying the S3 LPU, consider that it is still airborne urethane particles and with crosslinker added, toxicity rises again. So If spraying, protect those lungs by using a good cartridge respirator with a good fit, but at least the spraying area won't blow up as it might with solvent systems. The S3 LPU is very easy to cleanup, and, if given a properly prepped and cleaned surface, gives a beautiful finish with amatuer reasonable level skills, and with their primer, is compatible with the epoxies sold at Bateau. Waterbase systems are very susceptible to contaminants that can hinder leveling properties and/or adhesion, so work clean with them and they will perform very well. Unlike the white paste in preschool classes, you can NOT eat or drink waterbase LPU, but otherwise, it is much safer than solvent systems, when, of course, handled with good common sense. Crosslinker makes any Paint System rise in toxicity. Some crosslinkers use the same chemical families of the industrial accident in India a while back, in Bhopal, that killed all those near the chemical gas escape. Of course there is nowhere near the concentration of that accident in these paint crosslinkers, but, handle with care and good sense!

ks :wink:

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