Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Just started my nutshell build and was transfering dimensions to the plywood.
Was reading ahead and noticed that once I stitched the sides to the transom and had the form of the boat I was supposed to lay this atop the a sheet of plywood and trace the Sole.

My question is do I want to trace around the outside of the hull when transfering my lines or around the Inside?
Hope I am making this clear.

Your opinions would be greatly appreciated.

I can see a few pro's and con's to either way.

Josh

I traced on the inside and cut to the line, but could still see the line on my N7. It leaves a nice right angle groove to hold the woodflour-epoxy fillet and then round it off pior to taping.

Dave

She's Stitched up and ready for Epoxy Pic's Coming Soon.
Had one little pitfall with a mis-measurement but, all and all very easy build took me about 2 hours to lay out the dimensions and cut.
As well as a hour or so to stitch up.
Great Confidence builder. I read Blue Prints more often than I would like to and most everything uses right angle's (90%)
The boat plans were very easy to wrap your mind around once you layed them out on the plywood. I used a peice of 1/2 inch PVC as a guide for my arc's. This worked quit well and produced the perfect amount of camber.

I am sure yall will get a good laugh!

josh

OD-18 Starting to look more like a reality.
Until I got the urge to go look at paints.
Talk about overwhelming!

I have put the spot welds on the hull and have removed the stitch's I am not sure if I need to build the Fillets and then immediatly lay my glass on the fillets or can I do the Fillets and come back later and recoat with epoxy and then lay my fiberglass tape.

Thanks just a little mixed up after reading the tutorial's.

Its a lot faster and you get better result from working "wet on wet". Make a fillet, let it get a little hard, then lay the tape over it and wet the tape out.

Shine wrote:Its a lot faster and you get better result from working "wet on wet". Make a fillet, let it get a little hard, then lay the tape over it and wet the tape out.

or you can wet the tape out on a table covered in plastic and put the wet tape over the fillet.

Sometimes it is easier to wet out the tape on a flat surface..

Your choice.

Thanks Guys

Hulls done built the seats and glueing blocks in place for the seats.
Decided to add to additional skegs running the length of the boat.

Hope this will save the hull from a oyster expedition or two.
The oysters down here are like razors.

Any recommendations on paints?

I was thinking the two part brightside interluxe anybody have any experience with this paint?

Thanks

The interlux products are solvent based. Roll and tip and have lots of ventilation. Don't even think about spraying it unless you really know what you are doing and have spark free active ventialtion and proper respirator system.

The System Three LPU is water base and does not have the flamability and toxicity risk of solvent based topsides paints. If spraying the S3 LPU, consider that it is still airborne urethane particles and with crosslinker added, toxicity rises again. So If spraying, protect those lungs by using a good cartridge respirator with a good fit, but at least the spraying area won't blow up as it might with solvent systems. The S3 LPU is very easy to cleanup, and, if given a properly prepped and cleaned surface, gives a beautiful finish with amatuer reasonable level skills, and with their primer, is compatible with the epoxies sold at Bateau. Waterbase systems are very susceptible to contaminants that can hinder leveling properties and/or adhesion, so work clean with them and they will perform very well. Unlike the white paste in preschool classes, you can NOT eat or drink waterbase LPU, but otherwise, it is much safer than solvent systems, when, of course, handled with good common sense. Crosslinker makes any Paint System rise in toxicity. Some crosslinkers use the same chemical families of the industrial accident in India a while back, in Bhopal, that killed all those near the chemical gas escape. Of course there is nowhere near the concentration of that accident in these paint crosslinkers, but, handle with care and good sense!

ks

roll and tip and another quick question.



I wasn't aware of so many choices and uses of Marine paint until I did some research your help is appreciated. I just guessed at the interluxe because I felt they explained the product better than some other companies.

Most of my experience is with bottom paint couporous oxide and algeacide ect.. I am not sure this may be a dumb question but, on a boat that is going to spend 99% of the time on a trailer do I need to use bottom paint to protect the other paint or will the paints I use topside/hull be okay?

Lackofdistinction wrote:on a boat that is going to spend 99% of the time on a trailer do I need to use bottom paint to protect the other paint or will the paints I use topside/hull be okay?

Regular top side paint is all you need. Topside paints will get soft over a long time in water. 2 weeks is the upper limit I have read.

I've read that some topsides paint can start peeling after a week submerged. For this reason, since I will, maybe once a year, have the boat in the water for over a week continuous, I'm painting the bottom with an Interlux epoxy bottom paint with teflon additive. It will be easier to clean than without the additive, but will be alright in lakes that are part of the watersupply of cities and towns (no cuprous oxides allowed). Yet I think most trailered boats will not be in the water more than a day and the topsides paint should be sufficient. But I'm not an expert on the subject. The S3 waterbase is a joy to work with compared to the epoxy bottom paint which is already inside the centerboard case, but wow, tough stuff!

ks

Seats glued down and epoxy fillets in place. Do I need to lay fiberglass tap on the seam between hull and seats?

Going to order some quickfair this week!
Hope to have it wet before the new year!

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pos=-6582

new pics 1st boat made of Sand Ply HD
http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pos=-6584

Marine fir Ready for seats
http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pos=-6585

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pos=-6583

Profile of Marine Fir bottom http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pos=-6586

Sorry about the mutiples first try at more than one Pic.
My intention was to try the difference in ply's I was one of those goofs that wouldn't listen to good reason on the differences in plywood.

I officially have been Bateau-ized Meranti is the way to go I am over design weight on both boats and I believe its due to plywood.

josh

Got her Wet on Saturday Sorry no Pics Camera battery was dead.
Although, The nutshell is kinda tippy with one person in it For Fun I put my brother my Dad and I approximately, 520#'s and she was fairly seaworthy, and moved along about 6 Knots underway.

Although, I would pick and choose my times to cross any open water!

All in all its a fine boat for 68 pounds 7'10' and 165 dollars to build.

Lackofdistinction wrote: For Fun I put my brother my Dad and I approximately, 520#'s and ..........

I would love to see a picture of that. 3 nuts in a nutshell Just kidding.

Joel

Nutshell Underway Near Marco Island Florida West Coast.

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pos=-6924

Quik Fair is some Messy Stuff !

I can't seem to figure a way to measure it with throwing the tools away when I am done.

Any Ideas?