FL14 Pictures Finally

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ks8
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Post by ks8 »

I wouldn't change the hull shape. The best thing to get on plane is to build a different boat made for planing.

A good bond for the PVC tube drain thing is best done by having room to work on it, whether epoxy and then 5200 or whatever. So, you've got foam in there already. I think you may have no choice but to dig out foam to the transom bottom, enough to work and clean surfaces well. Compared to all the work you've done so far, it is a small inconvenience.

There are many ways to approach the actual drain, but if I understand, the goal is to keep water from ever getting under the seat, into that otherwise sealed compartment, and again, all the scenarios I can think of for getting the best possible seal, requires digging out foam for the pipe run, like digging a trench for a sewer line. You need to be able to work on both sides of the transom and the seat frame to clean things up and engineer a good sealed pipe installation with whatever fittings might be necessary. Water finds a way if it is there! Once the trench is dug and all is in, if the trench is only 6 inches wide, I'd leave it there and stick an access hatch to it somewhere, like on the face of the seat frame, so I could periodically sponge out if leaks do occur, or just inspect. This is assuming you did get a good epoxy seal on the wood that is now covered with foam.

Now, what about if the access hatch isn't as watertight as planned? If it is 5200'd on well, screws and all, it ain't comin' off! But if the gasket isn't a perfect seal, it could leak into the compartment if the water in the boat gets 3 or 4 inches high. So, while on the trailer, keep the boat slightly inclined with that tube unplugged, and even in a torrential rain, hopefully the water level will never even get up to the hatch level. Of course, throughout the fall, winter, spring, you've got to keep checking on the drainage, making sure it hasn't plugged up with leaves or other debris, or an overly optimistic mouse... 8O

The foam is the issue since it is already in there. Personally, I would not want to do this without working room on both sides, but that is not to say that you can't get some other method to work perfectly well. If you dig a six inch wide trench, have the shop vac running while the foam is flying!

Hope whatever you decide works out well in the end. :)

ks

rjezuit
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Post by rjezuit »

I don't think I will be building another hull soon. I had fun, but the FL14 is what I want and need now. To remove the seat top would mean removing tape/epoxy and fillet material. I don't know if I want to go that far. What about a floor drain through the bottom of the hull, has anyone heard of or seen such a thing? Thanks, Rick

ks8
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Post by ks8 »

I missed that you had the top on already. Yes, that's a bit more work.

There is always the option of storing it inverted.

And while on the trailer (parked in the yard), you could put a smaller 12 volt batt in a box with a float switch and bilge, and pump it over the side. Just need to charge the battery now and then. And realize there will always be about an inch or two in the bottom because of the backwash of the bilge hose once the pump goes off.

Or, put a cover over it, over the whole boat. :)

You don't want 3 or 4 inches freezing in there during those Buffalo winters. It might push the topsides off the boat. C-R-A-C-K !

Tilt the trailer a little, battery, bilge pump, float switch, all under a full size cover. Works for me! Every couple of weeks check that there's no pond, and sponge out the puddle, Just so water is not always sitting in there. Maybe simplist is best at this point. You could always remodel another year... I need to see more people finish to shame me into getting mine in the water this year! :lol:

The drain plug would have been nice, but you really don't *need* it... :wink:

ks

rjezuit
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Post by rjezuit »

I have it stored upside down for the winter, so freezing isn't a problem, especially this year, we have been above freezing more often than not. The bilge pump is a good idea, that may be the way to go. I am getting a cover also, but they are ususlly water-resistant, not water proof. Thanks for the insight. Rick

ks8
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Post by ks8 »

If you prop up the cover along the longitudinal centerline, even if it is only water resistant, you won't get much water in there.

I've got a friend outside Rochester who says the snow has all melted again! Maybe the biggest concern in Buffalo with a cover, is winter wind?

Have fun with the final phases of construction. :)

ks

MadRus
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Post by MadRus »

I actually garage my boats, so I don't have a plug in either of them. Though I have installed them in friends boats when refurbishing them.

You can buy a little hand pump for short money to get rid of small amounts of water that accumulate due to the ocassional storm or wet feet in the boat. I just get a sponge and mop my bilge out when I get home- all holes eventually deliver the water to the motorwell.

Dukydo
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Post by Dukydo »

Rick

So it seems there are many ways to go with this thing. Whatever you decide ... good luck with it and let us know how it goes.

rjezuit
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Post by rjezuit »

I'll keep thinking, but the bilge pump idea seems valid, but a drain would be easier and more fool-proof. Rick

Dukydo
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Post by Dukydo »

Rick
I'm starting my FL14 this spring, and I'll be doing the drain. Too many things need tending without adding a pump and batteries etc. Just call me lazy.

rjezuit
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Post by rjezuit »

That's the only thing I regret not doing up front is a drain. That is why I am searching now. Rick

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