FS 17 More floor problems

[jacquesmm]

Joel just told me that the sole may not have been built per plans. If that's the case, let us know how it was built and we'll try to help.

[tech_support]

I still don't understand why it failed. There is fiberglass tape on each side plus what ever glass you put on the sole.

I don't think he used glass on the underside

In that case it would only be the small 1"x3" holding the the tension between the two panels - that's only 1- 1/2" bond area on each side, not enough. Butt block or glass splice (per plans) would not fail. Butt blocks made of 1/4" would have more than doubel to bonding area.

When you stand on that part of the sole, the bottom splice is in tension, so you have only half of a pine 1x3 holding the joint together. Something else! the pine 1x3 grain is running parallel to the joint, so you have very little strength in the right direction (crossing the joint). I would bet the 1x3 just split along its grain

[Cracker Larry]

I would bet the 1x3 just split along its grain

My thoughts exactly.

[Aripeka Angler]

I would bet the 1x3 just split along its grain

My thoughts exactly.

I see it now in the pic. The cleat is not over stringer or frame, I missed that.

[jacquesmm]

Correct as Joel pointed out.
At this point, I don't know how to fix it without removing at least one side and using a plywood butt block.

[Aripeka Angler]

At this point, I don't know how to fix it without removing at least one side and using a plywood butt block.

Could he cut a 6" wide slot centered along the joint and install a 10" wide plywood cleat under the sole in the sole? (In two pcs)
Screw it in while the glue dries, remove the screws, blow patch the slot and tape over the patch?
We use similar method to put backing in millwork.
Might be less destructive than ripping out the floor.

[jacquesmm]

Yes, I thought of that and the end result will look like the butt block we use in the OD's but, he must be able to remove the 1x3.
If he can remove the 1x3, it is a good solution.

[designlady]

I drilled holes and injected glue the first time it happened. That got me thru the summer. The second time I cut about a 3/16" grove down the seams, injected glue, weighted it then covered it with 1 layer of tape. This time I opened up the seams, juked glue in with a putty knife till I was sure it got between the ply and the block. Then put 2 layers of biax tape. You know the story from there. I'm not sure where to go now. I do like Richards idea with the dowels or screws. At this point I don't know if I trust dowels. Really would like to do this only one more time and get back on the water. I'm thinking screws or laminating another 1/4".
Which way do I go?

Willie

[Aripeka Angler]

Willie, I don't think the screws will help if the pine is split. Let me post a crude sketch of my idea.

[designlady]

Guys
This is occurring at both front and rear seams. That would mean every 1x3 split on the grain. Not likely it would happen at every one. I'm out of town working so I can't check the plans but I don't recall that it needed a taped joint underneath the sole. Besides, the 2 layers of tape on top should have been as good as a butt block on the bottom without the 1x3.
Right. The sole was built per plan except for the 1x3. For the 1x3 not being enough glue area, I've seen on this forum where sole joints were glued over frames and cleats. Less area than a 1x3. BTW The question was asked during the build if the 1x3 in the framing would be alright. I would not have used it without an OK.
I don't mean to be confrontational, just frustrated and want to know how to fix it for good and get back to fishing.

Willie