FS 17 More floor problems

[Aripeka Angler]

I don't mean to be confrontational, just frustrated and want to know how to fix it for good and get back to fishing.

Willie

I feel your pain. All of my S3 paint fell off of my red boat when it was 3 years old. That's why I am posting, to try to help.
I would cut out whatever section(s) of the floor that have a problem instead of over-decking and adding more weight.
That's what I would do.

[remedy32]

Been thinking about the repair for a day or more now. Didn't posted my original reply because it got so long but I'm glad to seed that the culprit, the 1x3 pine, with the narrow glue joint and grain oriented in a split prone way was identified as the problem. Here are 2 thoughts........

Using a grinder relieve both sides of the joint in a shallow V all the way through the 10mm sole. Then do a traditional repair with strips of biax to fill the entire void created. Much like West System hole repair but in a 60" long line by 6" wide. I'm guessing that you have 2 problem areas at the joints of the big sheets that ran transverse to form the sole. Probably 12-16 layers to fill the void.

Alternate idea.... Cut out the entire 2-1/2" wide area where the pine was glued in across the boat. Install a 6" wide plywood backer behind this using temporary screws to hole in place while curing. (Like a drywall repair of a large hole). Now grind back 2" on each side of the edge you formed leaving a 6-1/2" wide trench with tapered sides to fill in the same way as above. You probably could core the center with a strip of ply as the SKINS are the load carrying part of this.

Hope that these ideas help or that others offer better options.

Bill

[jacquesmm]

The plans clearly state that you must have fiberglass tape on each side, I can post a picture of the text.
A 1x3 in addition to that was not going to hurt but the 1x3 by itself is not sufficient.

Fixing it: Richard's idea is the best but as I said in a previous post, you must remove the 1x3 in order to glue the butt block. If the 1x3 is not glued to the sides, it should come out with the sliced sole. Even if it is, it's not too difficult to grind off the sides.
We use that butt block technique on other boats and it is solid.

[wadestep]

Here's my 2 cents, and it is likely a re-stating of what Richard, Jaques, and remedy are saying:
1) no matter how many layers of glass you put on top it won't be enough. the top is in compression, the bottom in tension when you are standing on it. Therefore, glass or butt blocks are needed underneath.
2) my fix (after trying some stuff you've already done) is
a) take a router, or circular saw set to the depth of your sole thickness and cut out the offending deck splice AND the 1x3 underneath.
b) now that you have good access, (and a 3" wide slot to work in), take 1/2" plywood, with an epoxy coating and the underside glassed with 10oz or better, best is 12 oz biax parallell to the seam. Cut it as wide as possible - maybe 7-8 inches - and as long as you can handle getting into the slot. Hell, maybe glass both sides of this new butt block just for fun.
c) use plenty epoxy puddy and a pre-wet surfaces, adn screw it in place under the sole. Should have maximum possible overlap on each side of the slot for gluing surface - whatever width butt block you can physically get into the slot.
d) after that is dry, remove temp screws, cut another 3" wide strip the same thickness as your sole and place in the slot that is now a trough. Glue in place so you now have a level sole again.
e) 10-12oz fiberglass on top of that for securing the top, fair, prime, paint, done for life!

That's what I'd do - good luck with whatever you choose!
wade

[Cracker Larry]

Me too Wade. No other way to fix it right.

[remedy32]

Sounds good to me Wade It's a pain, but at least it will be fixed for the long haul.

Bill

[designlady]

I've decided to cut a slot 3" wide and get rid of the 1x3. Whatever is happening under there the 1x3 is not working.
Then glue a 9" piece of ply from underneath. That will give me 3" under each side. I don't have any 1/2" ply. Can I glue two pieces of 1/4" together? I don't want to take any chances so I'm gonna glass both sides. Then infill a new piece and glass over that with some biax. Does anybody have an idea to remove the foam. The floor is full to the top and I'll need some room to get the splice in and glued. Also, do I need to go all the way to the side? I don"t really want to get into the side/floor joint but will if I should.

Thanks to everyone for the advice.

Willie

[Walkers Run]

Does anybody have an idea to remove the foam.

Willie

I used a multi tool with a wood cutting blade to make channels for the butt blocks before I glued down my sole. Much harder after it's installed.

[Cracker Larry]

Willie, the best thing to cut out the foam will probably be a hand powered keyhole saw. It won't be hard to cut out. If you make the cut out wider than 3 inches it will give you more room to work with the saw, without busting up your knuckles too bad. You can't work in 3" of space, heck, make it 8 or 12", it doesn't matter. I'd make the splice wider and use 2 butt blocks.

[wadestep]

I think 1/4" x two layers is no problem. Also - I only had about 80-90% coverage with cleats underneath (ie only 80-90% of the total possible area a cleat could have been was covered with a cleat - the corners didn't touch each other. Therefore I think you plan of not allowing your fix to quite touch the side joint should be fine. I have not had any problems with the same set-up. However, I fiberglass-spliced the butt joints underneath, do I don't know if that's any different? more flexing possible at this joint than where there is a bulkhead under? Just thoughts...
wade

I've decided to cut a slot 3" wide and get rid of the 1x3. Whatever is happening under there the 1x3 is not working.
Then glue a 9" piece of ply from underneath. That will give me 3" under each side. I don't have any 1/2" ply. Can I glue two pieces of 1/4" together? I don't want to take any chances so I'm gonna glass both sides. Then infill a new piece and glass over that with some biax. Does anybody have an idea to remove the foam. The floor is full to the top and I'll need some room to get the splice in and glued. Also, do I need to go all the way to the side? I don"t really want to get into the side/floor joint but will if I should.

Thanks to everyone for the advice.

Willie