Mark's C21

[Eric1]

Hi Mark,

Just want to wish you well on your build! My shoulder finally quit hurting enough for me to get a little done today.
Pretty cool that there is another person building the same boat at the same time!!

Peace, Love and Happiness,

Eric

[mmachonis]

Jacque, Fuzz,

I have completed the base of my Jig and I am about to start adding the Stations to the jig. I can see on the plans how the Stations are marked toward the stern of the measurement indicator so I will place them accordingly. In the kit I have, the stations are made of a fibrous material. It does not seem like wood. I am building my boat outside will this effect the stations? I will be covering the project with a tarp/tent. When I join the two station pieces together, do I use any fiberglass cloth? Or do I coat the puzzle like joint with a mixture of epoxy resin and hardener only? And do I coat both sides, one side then the other in separate application?

Thanks.

Mark

[mmachonis]

• Code: Select all

  [quote="mmachonis"]Jacque, Fuzz,
  
  I have completed the base of my Jig and I am about to start adding the Stations to the jig.  I can see on the plans how the Stations are marked toward the stern of the measurement indicator so I will place them accordingly.  In the kit I have, the stations are made of a fibrous material.  It does not seem like wood.  I am building my boat outside will this effect the stations?  I will be covering the project with a tarp/tent.  When I join the two station pieces together, do I use any fiberglass cloth?  Or do I coat the puzzle like joint with a mixture of epoxy resin and hardener only? And do I coat both sides, one side then the other in separate application?
  
  Thanks.
  
  Mark[/quote]

Jacque,

My name is Mark Machonis. We have spoken together on the phone several times. I hope you are feeling well.

I received my kit this week. I am about to get started. I have a few questions based on Reading Sam Devlin's book.

In his book, he indicates that he builds using a female jig with the boat right side up to start. He indicated that by doing so, you can keep your structure in proper alignment throughout the stitching/filleting process. Then set a few main permanent frames and longitudinal supports, then flip the boat and complete the exterior. I kind of agree with him. It seems to me that if the structure is upside down, there is no way, or it is more difficult to measure that the frames are in proper alignment with the hull. In addition, the frames can be fastened to the hull structure with temporary screws without damaging the completed exterior. Assuming a male jig is used, the exterior is completed first and then the boat is flipped so temporary frames set with screws would damage the completed outside. My thought, based on Mr Devlin's premise, is to make a cradle that keeps the water line level. Stitch the hull structure together, Fillet and Tape the inside of the hull using spreader bars and temporarily place frames to maintain the alignment in the cradle. Glass the inside. Set the longitudinal supports and frames on the interior and then flip the boat. Fillet, Glass and paint the exterior and flip it back over to finish the inside.

Am I overthinking this? Am I misunderstanding something? What are the advantages and disadvantages to using either method?

Mark[/quote]

[mmachonis]

I would like to post some photos. Do I have the rights to post images? If so, how do I do it?

[pee wee]

Try this:
http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php ... 91#p109712

[jacquesmm]

At the top of my building notes, I mention the Devlin book as a reference but I also say that, if there is a conflict, you MUST follow my instructions, not Devlin.
The Devlin boats are hybrid between plywood on frame and stitch and glue, mine are composite boats. The Devlin boats rely more on the wood for strength, mine rely more on fiberglass.

In our assembly method, there are no temporary screws to damage the skin. Please see the pictures in the gallery: there must be close to 100 boats shown there built on a male jig.
The male jig is standard practice.

I use the basket mold method (female mold) for several of my sail boat designs but not for planing power boats. It is very difficult to obtain a straight running surface with the basket mold.
Thousands of my planing boat designs have been built on a male jig.

Why complicate?

PS: I was designing and building "stitch and glue" boats well before the 1st Devlin book was published.

[mmachonis]

http://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/userp ... DECK_2.JPG

Jacques,

I am sorry. I do not mean to offend. I am just curious. I am on board and ready to start the journey. I have an area to build and the jig is ready to start adding stations. I will send more pictures once the stations are added.

As I see it there are two key points to adding the stations to the jig, horizontal placement and centered vertical placement. This placement is all based on the origin point in the center of the jig at the forward most point of the bow. The horizontal placement of the stations is based on the length distance from the origin point to the measured distance of that station per the plans. The vertical placement of the station is based on the height distance from the origin to the waterline of that station. If we want to be able to crawl under the jig, we should add an additional 6 inches. The first station to be set should be the one that has the greatest distance to the waterline. The remaining stations will stay level to the first stations waterline and as such lining up all the stations on the same level waterline. The result is that the height distance of each station is the same from the origin to the waterline. So if I were to put a level lengthwise on the keel of the boat it would be level sitting in the jig. Yet the sheer and chine will vary based on the shape of the station.

Does that make sense? Is there anything I'm missing before I get started?

Thanks.

Mark

[jacquesmm]

I am not offended, I was afraid . . .

For a pictorial explanation of the jig set up, see this tutorial;
http://www.bateau2.com/howto/jig.php

At some point in that tutorial, I mention offsetting the stringer layers: disregard that, we don;t do it anymore but everything else is correct.
You can't go wrong with your kit: the spacing of all the parts is set by the notches in the stringers and molds.
There is nothing to measure. You can not make a mistake: notches would not fit.

The only part where a builder can introduce an error is by not having the the molds plumb. They must be vertical.
One could also twist the whole thing but that would become evident as soon as you try to install a hull panel.

[jacquesmm]

BTW, did you get the kit notes? It's a PDF file.
From your questions, it sounds like you don;t have them.
The molds are clearly marked with the BL (baseline).
There is almost nothing to measure but if you don't have the notes you may not know that the baseline is marked with little holes.

[mmachonis]

If the kit notes came with the kit, I do not think I have them. Would you please send them to me as a pdf? Thanks.