My cx 25
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Re: My cx 25
I think the fear is that without a larger radius on the tip, your tape will bubble out and cause huge voids while curing, the tape/cloth doesnt like sharp corners like that which is why you have the fillets inside corners and sanded or routed radius on outside corners.
Re: My cx 25
Sorry but what rays should I do? Should I just round up? The designs are sharp,
- BB Sig
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Re: My cx 25
I believe the radius needed is determined by the fiberglass being used. Thicker fiberglass needing a larger radius. I believe most times Jacques specifies a .5" radius. Too large is a waste of epoxy and too small is, well, too small.
Check your building notes to see what is specified. You can always sharpen the edges after the fiberglass is applied.
Check your building notes to see what is specified. You can always sharpen the edges after the fiberglass is applied.
Re: My cx 25
I'm wondering if you could skip the radius thing by doing one side at a time? Do one side, leaving an excess or overhang. Let that cure and cut the excess off cleanly along the sharp edge. Then do the other side. If concerned about the very edge run a thin bead of wood flour thickened epoxy along it and work it in with a stir stick, clean up with a rag, and touch up with hand sanding when cured.
Dougster
Dougster
Re: My cx 25
For your opinion, (not considering the application of fiberglass) at the end is it more appropriate if I have an edge or rays?
Re: My cx 25
Forgive my Crude drawing, but this illustrates the two methods you could use:
and Option B (if you want to keep that hard edge) is probably the best way to make it work, without having the tape peel off of the hard edge during curing. You will want to make sure to have as little tape overlapping at the top edge of the skegs as possible, but to make sure that it touches, and stays together. This way could be kinda tricky in practice.
Once it cures, you trim off the extra glass with a razor blade, and sand it to whatever edge you prefer.
I would do a test batch first on a small segment of the material either way, to see what you are up against.
Also of note: The strakes may look like they are a very pointy trianglar shape in the drawings, but the note next to them says 2"x2" cut diagonally, and glued on the diagonal cut side (In other words the design calls for a 90° angled piece, and probably with the same radius on the edge as you would find on standard hardware store lumber)
Option A, you will want to "round over" the hard edge of your material so that the tape wraps around it. While it may look like it will wrap just fine, once the epoxy starts curing the material changes properties slightly as the matrix with the epoxy forms, and the glass and epoxy will become "stiffer" and try to straighten out somewhat against the hard edge. and Option B (if you want to keep that hard edge) is probably the best way to make it work, without having the tape peel off of the hard edge during curing. You will want to make sure to have as little tape overlapping at the top edge of the skegs as possible, but to make sure that it touches, and stays together. This way could be kinda tricky in practice.
Once it cures, you trim off the extra glass with a razor blade, and sand it to whatever edge you prefer.
I would do a test batch first on a small segment of the material either way, to see what you are up against.
Also of note: The strakes may look like they are a very pointy trianglar shape in the drawings, but the note next to them says 2"x2" cut diagonally, and glued on the diagonal cut side (In other words the design calls for a 90° angled piece, and probably with the same radius on the edge as you would find on standard hardware store lumber)
Re: My cx 25
Hello everyone would like to see if as well as I did these pieces the navigation is fine.
- Jaysen
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Re: My cx 25
I don't think that will sit flat. The radius on the end it too sharp
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Re: My cx 25
I can laminate 12 ounce biaxial tape around the shape in your photo with no problem.
You can make it work also.
Don't overstress the fibers of the biax by forcing the fabric to bend.
Take your time, use plenty of epoxy and be prepared to fuss with it while it dries.
Do a test run on a sample piece of wood before you do your actual layup.
Richard
Completed boats...XF20 "Red Alert", Aripeka Angler's Strip Canoe, FS18 “Bare Bones”, GF12
Currently building...PY12 Kayak
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Completed boats...XF20 "Red Alert", Aripeka Angler's Strip Canoe, FS18 “Bare Bones”, GF12
Currently building...PY12 Kayak
Bare Bones build thread...If there is magic on this planet, it is contained in water. - Loren Eiseley
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62146
- Jaysen
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Re: My cx 25
AA, you are right. I was looking at it with the gaps on the edge and not thinking about the epoxy holding it down. Sorry.
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