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MY C17

Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 2:05 pm
by WHP
A new beginning.Started a new tread . Bought yesterday the plans for the C17. I'm exited . Cleaned up my garage ready to go .
In the study plans it says 9mm marine ply and in the plans 10mm marine ply does it matter 9 or 10mm ?
Any rough idea how many meter of the wood for the cleats i need 1x1 and 1x2 ?
I,m getting a quote from COLAN Australia for the biaxial tape and woven fibreglass ,marine epoxy . Sydney based company who makes composite reinforcement .
Getting all wood ,ply wood this or beginning next week. than i can start cutting all panels .ordered lg wheels for the Jig so i can move it around .

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 2:23 pm
by pee wee
Good luck with your build! Incidentally, your build thread should be under "builder's progress and non technical messages", not "plans and building". If you need a question answered put it up here under this heading so it will get seen by the people who check for questions.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 2:33 pm
by jacquesmm
9 or 10 mm plywood is the same thickness. Some manufacturers call it 9, others 10.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Wed Mar 01, 2017 6:32 am
by Rmarsh
Looking forward to following your build. The C17 is a great boat. I put a 60 hp Yamaha on my center console version and have never felt the need for more power or speed. That is not to say I wouldn't go with a 70 hp if it was close to the same weight and price as the 60. Good luck .....stock up on the disposable items like mixing cups, rubber gloves, foam brushes, sandpaper etc.

Bob

Re: MY C17

Posted: Wed Mar 01, 2017 3:43 pm
by WHP
Thanks Bob,
Found a plywood place can get BS1088 and BS6566 to a good price BS 1088 is $250.- cheaper . Missed out on the 60 hp Mercury (was on special brand new with warranty $3000) .Its a liquidation shop and they have ever so often specials on . Do I have to strengthen the transom if I hang on a bigger motor say 75 hp. Use 12mm ply instead of 10mm or is it getting to heavy in the back?

Re: MY C17

Posted: Wed Mar 01, 2017 10:53 pm
by TomW1
You can put up to a 90HP without strengthening the transom. As I mentioned before the newer 70's weigh about the same as the 60's and will give you a better performance profile. Keep your eyes open you have a way to go till you will need to mount your motor.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 3:24 pm
by WHP
ok if i have that correct its two pieces for the transom and two backing plates and the all get glued together with epoxy wood flour.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 4:45 pm
by jacquesmm
Drawing 236/3 shows the construction. Note # 9 on that drawing says "transom 2 layers plus clamping board 1 layer".
The nesting drawing shows a second layer for the clamping board.
It is there to show that if you want, you can add a second layer, there is enough plywood but it is not needed.
However, outboard clamps are 2" wide or more, why not install that second layer?

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 2:31 am
by WHP
My wife wants a Toilet in the cabin. Is the cabin big enough to do that. We are both tall people so the cabin bunk is to small for us anyway.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 2:36 am
by Fuzz
I have no idea if you can get a head in the cabin or not. It just struck me funny that you are dealing with the same thing as me. Just goes to show ALL women want one on the boat.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 5:51 am
by WHP
Can I extend the cabin Hight by 20 or 30 cm or is it getting unstable.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 6:37 am
by icelikkilinc
Not only unstable but ugly..
A foot height increase on 17' boat would be a major change or COG, looks, feel, even steering position etc..
imho, I wouldn't... the best way to understand the effect is to make a 1/10 model of original vs proposed to visualize

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 9:25 am
by jacquesmm
There is sitting height in the C17 but to raise the cabin would look disproportionate, ugly.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 1:13 pm
by WHP
Thanks for that . Just ideas going try my head. Not going to change the Hight or any other major things .Sticking to the plan :D . On Monday all the wood is getting delivered and on Tuesday all fibreglass and epoxy, filler. Got lots of sm containers brushes and..... so ready to cut the first parts on Monday and glue the transom and the stringers.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 7:12 pm
by WHP
Question on spray rails were should the go on the C17 and do they make a difference , any specific shape or size the need to be?

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 9:37 pm
by Newt
Fuzz wrote: Fri Mar 03, 2017 2:36 am I have no idea if you can get a head in the cabin or not. It just struck me funny that you are dealing with the same thing as me. Just goes to show ALL women want one on the boat.
It's a little harder for them to hang "it" over the side. :lol:

Newt

Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 2:12 am
by WHP
Question on spray rails were should the go on the C17 and do they make a difference , any specific shape or size the need to be? :help:

Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 5:41 am
by WHP
WHP wrote: Tue Feb 28, 2017 2:05 pm A new beginning.Started a new tread . Bought yesterday the plans for the C17. I'm exited . Cleaned up my garage ready to go .
In the study plans it says 9mm marine ply and in the plans 10mm marine ply does it matter 9 or 10mm ?
Any rough idea how many meter of the wood for the cleats i need 1x1 and 1x2 ?
I,m getting a quote from COLAN Australia for the biaxial tape and woven fibreglass ,marine epoxy . Sydney based company who makes composite reinforcement .
Getting all wood ,ply wood this or beginning next week. than i can start cutting all panels .ordered lg wheels for the Jig so i can move it around .

Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 6:52 am
by Rmarsh
The spray rails are attached to the lower side panel where it meets the bottom. I used a 3/4"x 1 1/2" piece of spruce. They do deflect a lot of spray outward and away from the boat. It creates a small reverse chine that may even provide some lift.
You will notice that my skeg extends all the way back to the transom. It was supposed to end about a foot in from the end.

Image

Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 8:53 am
by Jeff
Looks good!! Jeff

Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 10:29 am
by TomW1
Good looking photo. As you point out the skeg should end at least 8-10" from the transom as to allow the water to come back together before reaching the prop.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Mar 07, 2017 2:50 pm
by WHP
Thanks for info on spray rail and skeg .
Cut the transom , now cutting the clamping bord . on the plan the cut out of the motor well is 316mm and the clamping board is 321 mm high from BL. It's standing 5 mm higher than transom. Is that correct or cut clamping board down.the whole lenght or just cut out of motor well.
i'm just measuring the stringers out and on plan E236/7 the stringers have a measuring of 305 Typ ? i got the length and width ,its just where it narrows . :help:

Re: MY C17

Posted: Wed Mar 08, 2017 2:34 pm
by WHP
Ok figured it out. Will cut clampingboard so it fits with transom. 305 typ = 305mm for all the next measurings if no other size specified.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Wed Mar 08, 2017 2:48 pm
by jacquesmm
That small difference is due to the transom angle.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Wed Mar 08, 2017 11:53 pm
by WHP
The Jig is build. I cut all the transom pieces , and apart from frame A all are cut out . Stringers are cut , they are getting glued tomorrow with the transom.
Where can I find the bow mold or how do I draw one.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 3:08 pm
by WHP
ok I cut all frames ,upper ,lower chine and bottom. Started setting the stations on the jig.Everything is still to move around , its not fix yet. Got to cut the notches into the stringers . Today before finish i fibreglass splice upper , lower chines and bottom.
Didn't figure out the mould for the bow , maybe when all the stations are in place i can figure it out.http://forums.bateau2.com/app.php/gallery/image/638

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 3:32 pm
by cape man
Just saw your thread for the first time.

Here's a head for any boat.

Image

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 8:40 pm
by Browndog
The old buddy bucket! There have been many a fishing trip where that would of been welcome compared to what was available. :D

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 8:41 pm
by TomW1
WHP wrote: Wed Mar 08, 2017 11:53 pm The Jig is build. I cut all the transom pieces , and apart from frame A all are cut out . Stringers are cut , they are getting glued tomorrow with the transom.
Where can I find the bow mold or how do I draw one.
There was a sheet just for a bow mold, you just had to trace it. Or you could take measurements from it.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 8:42 pm
by TomW1
cape man wrote: Tue Mar 14, 2017 3:32 pm Just saw your thread for the first time.

Here's a head for any boat.

Image
Oh to have been the guy that came up with that idea.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 12:54 am
by WHP
Maybe the bow mold is in the printed version or that page is missing on the digital version.
Great idea the bucket seat :D ,don't know about my wife :roll:

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2017 1:50 am
by WHP
Ok cut all frames and set the stations . Stringers are in place and all is square, straight and level. Had a few problems with my drawings , two of the frames where incorrect :( . recut them and all good . I fibreglass spliced lower , upper chine and bottom pieces . Tomorrow we drill the holes get the tie downs and set the first bottom pieces on to the frame. :D
http://forums.bateau2.com/app.php/gallery/image/668

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sun Mar 19, 2017 10:06 pm
by WHP
I got a problem . Got the frames , set the stations, fixed the bottom on .Just with tie downs .Here it starts, is next comes the lower chines and than the upper chines . Do the upper chines goes partly over the lower chines or should it just come together . :help:

Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 6:46 am
by Rmarsh
The upper and lower side pieces overlap, i don't recall the exact measurement but it was around 6".

I remember being a little confused as to which was the upper chine panel versus which was the lower chine panel due to the fact that when building the hull upside down it is reversed. I saw a picture in the gallery of your build and it looks like you have the wider side panel against the hull bottom, it should be the narrower panel first.

The narrower side panel attaches to the hull bottom. The wider panel (upper when the boat is upright, not upside down) has it's top edge flush with the top of the frames and that determines the overlap.
Hope this helps.
Bob

Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 6:52 am
by Rmarsh
In your picture I can see that you have the wider panel going against the bottom, I believe that is incorrect. It should be the narrower panel going on first.




Image

Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 7:11 am
by WHP
Thanks Bob,
I will try in the morning and change the chines ,take off the lg one and set the small one there .will overlap them and will post a picture how that is going. :D

Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 7:26 am
by Rmarsh
I found this picture of my build. It shows the side panel arrangement. I did join the panels to length first but this picture was taken before that, it was just a test fit.

[imgur2]http://www.striped-bass.com/Stripertalk ... 1295798104[/imgur2]

Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 7:30 pm
by WHP
Took the panels off try to get the upper chine joined with the bottom panel and tried to set the larger lower chine on the frame just to see how it fits .
the upper chine is way to long and the lower chine is to short. I measured all again and again . on the plan the lower thicker is the shorter of the two chines .i'm going to make a picture and show it.

MY C17

Posted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 8:13 pm
by WHP
This is the lower chine panel /to short
File 21-3-17, 9 47 51 am.jpeg
this is the upper chine panel/ to long
File 21-3-17, 9 54 43 am.jpeg
thats the plans for the chines and the bottom panel
File 21-3-17, 9 56 27 am.jpeg
and as you saw in the earlier picture why did the lower chine fit perfect in the wrong place.
I'm lost :help: :doh:

Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 8:20 pm
by jacquesmm
Something is wrong but I don't know what.
Many of those boats were built, I know they come together per plans.

1. do not stitch the panels to the frames.
2. you should start by putting the lower side on the jig, loosely stitched to the bottom
3. then add the upper side panel, overlapping the lower side by about 6". If you don't overlap, the upper side panel will be to long.

The overlap maybe the problem.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 11:25 pm
by WHP
ok whole thing is apart again .
1.) Stich loosely upper chine to bottom
2.) Stich lower chine with overlap to upper chine.
3.) It had to fit
i'm going to be away for 3 days thats my Saturday project.
Thanks everybody to be patient with me .

Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 11:30 pm
by bbuckl
I second what RMarsh is telling you.
Measuring at the stern, one panel is narrower/shorter at about 15 inches or 388 mm.
In your diagram it is labeled Upper Chine. (My plans are packed away somewhere).
This panel goes on first.
The wider, taller panel, labeled Lower Chine will go on second.
This will create a 6 inch overlap.
It may be an optical illusion, but your frames appear to be taller than I remember.
To help you locate the chines, I suggest you measure along the frame and mark them where you expect them to reach to.
For example, at transom or rear frame, the first panel would reach somewhere near the 15 inch mark.

I expect you have read to keep the stitches loose as you will eventually shake some of the panels around to get the to fall into place.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 12:33 am
by WHP
i just measured the panels and its exact of the plan

lower chine 3panels (this is the wide panel , that should go on last)
1st 1800mm ,2nd 2440mm , 3rd 1123m = total length 5364mm

upper Chine 3 panels (narrow panel ,this one should go on first)
1st 1732mm , 2nd 2440mm , 3rd 1386mm = total length 5558mm

the bottom comes together with the long straight side
could the problem be in the bottom panels / wrong way together

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 5:05 am
by Rmarsh
WHP wrote: Mon Mar 20, 2017 8:13 pm This is the lower chine panel /to short
File 21-3-17, 9 47 51 am.jpeg
this is the upper chine panel/ to long
File 21-3-17, 9 54 43 am.jpeg
thats the plans for the chines and the bottom panel
File 21-3-17, 9 56 27 am.jpeg
and as you saw in the earlier picture why did the lower chine fit perfect in the wrong place.
I'm lost :help: :doh:
From what I can see in these pictures and from my own experience building the C17, there seems to be confusion as to which is the upper chine panel and which is the lower. In your first picture in this post you say the lower chine panel is too short, but that panel should be butted against the bottom panel not stitched to that frame as your picture shows. In the second picture you say the upper chine panel is too long but you show it butted against the bottom panel. I think you have them reversed.

The hull is being built upside down...so when the plans call it the upper chine panel it is actually the panel that goes against the bottom panel. Try moving that upper chine panel up against the bottom panel.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 6:06 am
by WHP
I name the chines how it is named on the planes and I try every version to fit them . I made pictures of the wide short chine(lower chine panel) . I can't get my head around it that the longer panel or chine is covering the shorter area(upper chine is to long) and the wide short panel or chine is covering the longer area( lower chine the wide short panel).
Will try to take apart everything and start assembling it again. I will make it work 👍 😎

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 6:42 am
by Rmarsh
jacquesmm wrote: Mon Mar 20, 2017 8:20 pm Something is wrong but I don't know what.
Many of those boats were built, I know they come together per plans.

1. do not stitch the panels to the frames.
2. you should start by putting the lower side on the jig, loosely stitched to the bottom
3. then add the upper side panel, overlapping the lower side by about 6". If you don't overlap, the upper side panel will be to long.

The overlap maybe the problem.
Jaques ....hope not to offend you but there are some contradictions here.
In bullet #2 you say "start by putting the "lower" side on the jig...stitched to the bottom"
I'm pretty sure on the plans the upper chine panel, not the lower, is the one that attaches to the bottom.
My apologies if i'm incorrect and making matters more confusing, just trying to help out a new builder get a better understanding of the problem he has encountered.

Bob

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 10:39 am
by jacquesmm
The one attached to the bottom is the shortest panel. It is easy to understand, the cheer line is longer than the chine, the hull flares out and is wider, longer at the top than on the bottom.
Could there be a typo on the plans?
I am certain that the shortest panel is the lower one but there may be a wrong label on one of the drawings. I will check.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 12:51 pm
by jacquesmm
I checked and that's it: the labels of the panels are switched.
All your cutting is correct but switch the panels and it will fit.

Sorry about that but I thought I changed that a couple years ago.
I will correct it again.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 1:24 pm
by WHP
so I had it correct to start with, just have to over lap them and that's it.
Thanks for all the help and sorry for any confusion . So got 3 days away and than I'm on it again 👍
Got the printed plans yesterday delivered. Full steam ahead :D

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sun Apr 09, 2017 3:54 pm
by WHP
The hull is together . Start laying out the large fibreglass cloth, so by good Friday i should have the it finished. then i can start fairing.
A few questions:
What do i have to do for drainage ,bilge pump ? I meant to fill the bottom under deck with flotation foam or do i live a cannel in the middle for drainage.

Is a 90 hp Tohatsu to heavy , 153 kg / 337 lbs or should i go smaller and lighter with motor.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sun Apr 09, 2017 6:35 pm
by TomW1
First the motor: a 50 or 60 HP motor is plenty for the C17, guys are happy with this size motor. No use going more than that. If you want go with a 70HP based on the 50 or 60HP go with one like the Yamaha 70 which weighs less than 10lbs over the 60HP.

Then don't worry about bilge pumps and scuppers until you flip the boat and get the deck down. You can drain the deck to the aft bilge and use a 1500 gph bilge pump. Or you can use scuppers from the deck out the transom at each corner. It is up to you.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 7:42 pm
by WHP
Only reason i asked about the Outboard motor i get the 90 hp Tohatsu $1000.- cheaper than the 70 hp yamaha or 60 hp mercury. Would the weight be a problem.
i, m not doing anything about bilge pump or scuppers yet , just want to know about prices.
would you use one or two batteries?

Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 8:53 pm
by TomW1
The only problem with the Tohatsu is the extra weight. It weighs 120lbs more than the Yamaha or Mercury 60HP motors do. Do you have the Tohatsu yet if not why not get a 60HP Tohatsu motor. That will save you that weight and you will not have to make any adjustments in placements of your weights. I am not afraid of the extra HP, you can control that but if you are building a center console version you will need to move the console forward 6". The other problem you have is that with the 90HP you are approaching the max speed that the C17 planing hull can handle with the current bottom scantlings and you will probably need to add a second layer of fiberglass to the bottom before starting to do any fairing.

Since Jacques is the designer I would ask him this question about using a 90 and if you have to strengthen it.

Tom

Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 11:18 pm
by WHP
I,m building with cabin not centre console. Will find out about price of 60 hp Tohatsu.
Any thought about the batteries ?

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Apr 11, 2017 12:56 pm
by TomW1
Go with two batteries, one for starting and one for other things. Make sure the battery switches allow you to use either battery to act as a starter in case something happens to the primary starting battery.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 1:16 am
by WHP
I,m looking for a smaller engine but could somebody answer the questions.
Can the boat handle a 90 hp engine if yes what changes would it need .
A second layer of fiberglass on the hull? I got the second transom plate on ( so it's four) transom is 40 millimeter .

What width should my rub rail be , thought 50 to 60 mm and should I use 6mm marine ply or other wood.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 6:50 pm
by TomW1
First the rub rail. Use three layers of 6mm to make it. The plans I have call for a 3/4" rub rail, which converts to 19mm. Till you get the epoxy glue on you will have this. Marine ply is fine.

Now to the 90HP motor. It is 40HP higher than the recommended 50HP motor. It weighs 120lbs more which means you will have to move weight forward as a first step to counter this balance arm moment. The LCG is 42% for the C17 from the DWL of 8". So you can calculate this. I no longer have my C17 plans as they went up in smoke when our house burned down. But use the full size drawing to get the length of LGC. It will be around 6-7' from the transom at the DWL. Then measure back to where the motor sits, as it is behind the transom at the DWL add that length. Then multiply by 120 lbs. So as example let's assume the LCG is 6.5' from the transom. The motor sits .75' further back from the transom point for a total length of 7.25'. So final calculation is 7.25' x 120lbs = 870lbs of Moment that needs to be taken into account. This is done by moving weight forward of the LCG.
This can be in any number of ways, such as moving multiple weights, different distances.

Now as for the boat scantlings that Jacques designed for the C17. He normally over designs any boat that he sells. But going up 40HP I am not sure that you will not need to add some additional fiberglass and an extra transom motor support board. He is the only one that can answer this question.
Hopefully he will see this and answer your question.

Tom

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 4:33 pm
by WHP
Thanks for the advise Tom .Whats LCG and DWL.
Did the fiberglassing now I'm in the middle off fairing.had the first big sanding.
Question does it need a skeg what size and how far to set it off the transom , or just a piece of hardwood/plywood 20mm x 40mm.
Size of spray rail .My thought was a piece of quarter round where the flat sides are 20mm or bigger 40mm.
Fiberglass cloth laidover and cut
Fiberglass cloth laidover and cut
Middle of fairing
Middle of fairing

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 6:23 pm
by Fuzz
Might be middle of fairing but that hull sure looks smooth already :D

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 6:55 pm
by TomW1
LCG is Longitudinal Center of Gravity and DWL is Designed Water Line. Yes there is a skeg on the C17 you should find it on the plans stop it 8-10 inches short of the transom. As I recall the skeg is 1" x 1" or 2.5cm. The boats looking good, nice fiberglassing job. Yes a 25 - 40 mm rub rail should be fine if your going with 1/4 round I would go with the heavier.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue May 09, 2017 10:31 pm
by WHP
Rubrail keg and spray rail done just a bit sanding a few coats of epoxy on it and I start painting the hull.
how many people will it take to lift the hull ? I guess 6 .
My latest picture
https://forums.bateau2.com/app.php/gallery/image/960

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat May 13, 2017 6:46 pm
by WHP
Could somebody answer that i looked on a lot of boat hulls and some of them have this small rails on them i marked them on my drawing( sm rails).
are the necessary and what are there function or can i do without. might be stupid question but i don't know. :doh:
File 14-5-17, 8 43 32 am.jpeg

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat May 13, 2017 11:28 pm
by Browndog
It has been my observation that spray rails are typically at or above the chine where the bottom and sides meet. Reverse chines are often also used for the same purpose of spray reduction. The skeg is typically on the centerline of the keel if there is only one. Sometimes there will be two skegs, offset equidistant from the centerline keel, especially popular in areas of large tides where boats will often be expected to sit on their bottoms when the tide is out. Skegs in some designs can be structural to the hull as well. The other bottom structures are strakes that can be used to aid in producing lift, some spray reduction or to help prevent sliding in turns. Strakes are especially popular in molded boats. Some believe they help to stiffen the bottom. Strakes may or may not be included by design.

Strakes in particular are the subject of a lot of marketing hype.

A newly popular bottom feature is the incorporation of steps, used to introduce air to the running suface for a variety of benefits. Steps tend to show up on deep v go fast type boats.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat May 13, 2017 11:57 pm
by TomW1
For the C17 as I recall from my plans you want a skeg ending about 10" from the transom. Make it from 3/4 x 3/4 plywood and cover with fiberglass. For spray rails use reverse chines at the chine. These can be 2x3" triangles and tapered smaller as they go to the bow. There is an excellent example of this by an Australian builder if you can find his build here. I'm not sure if he built an OB17 or a C17.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue May 16, 2017 10:32 pm
by WHP
Thanks for all that info i do appreciate your help.
I found some oak and made the skeg from two pieces of oak glued together glued it to the hull, had some help with screws took them out ones it was hardened all set .
Fibreglased it and started fairing it. Next week i start with base paint two coats. and bottom of hull is going to be white and top off hull marine blue.
So in two weeks i should be ready to turn it if the weather stays good.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Thu May 18, 2017 5:33 pm
by WHP
Its raining so got to do other things . i'm cutting out the cabin side panels and front. Can i make window frames myself and whats the best way to get about it?
Two sheets of thicker aluminium cut out the shape of the window with an inch overlap get some plastic window or toughens glass and set it in with rubber strips. One aluminium outside one inside.Does it have to be flexible ?

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri May 19, 2017 9:38 am
by pee wee
That would work, but you've got other options. Take a look at some of the other builds (hmd-19, etc.), I've seen plywood frames used with plexi glass, but for simplicity and versatility you could do a roll-up plastic with snaps or ties.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri May 19, 2017 11:31 pm
by TomW1
Your idea sounds fine but there are other options and different types of plastics to use other than what you suggested.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat May 20, 2017 12:44 am
by WHP
Not going with alumnium frame , costs to much to get proper frames made.
I'm using Acrylic , Polycarbonate or Mar Resistant Polycarbonate. We got a place here where i can buy it by the sheet or the cut it to size.
going to try making my own frames from 10 or 12mm plywood
window.jpg

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat May 20, 2017 8:42 am
by pee wee
That sounds good. I recall that some of those plastics don't have good UV tolerance, might want to check on that before you buy anything.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat May 20, 2017 8:59 am
by terrulian
There was just a discussion of acrylic vs. lexan on the forum (you might find the string in a search) and I think the consensus was acrylic was a better choice. Tap plastics can answer a lot of questions and make you the exact cut from a pattern. Acrylic is also cheaper but that wasn't the main argument.
As for attachment, the second drawing is stronger. You can also just make the window a little larger than the hole and merely screw it to the hull or use machine screws with nuts. Then some goop and you're done. :D

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat May 20, 2017 11:51 am
by Chuck H

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat May 20, 2017 2:26 pm
by Fuzz
Like Tony said if you want the strongest windows cut them over size and attach them to the outside. They will not be the best looking but they will be strong. Had a friend who kept punching his glass out. He went the over size Lexan route and never had another problem. Also spend the extra for the scratch resistant stuff, it is worth it.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat May 20, 2017 2:43 pm
by terrulian
Here's the forum string I was referring to:
https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.ph ... ilit=lexan

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sun May 21, 2017 5:48 pm
by WHP
Thanks everybody great info.
I had a look at the pictures of the C17 with the Cabin, the side windows have a bend in them . The question is now is Acrylic or Polycarbonate bendable.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 12:36 am
by WHP
Ok I gave the cabin panels to get the windows cut . Designed the changes on my trolley so it can hold the boat when I turn it. One week on Saturday we turn it.
Painting is done, fairing is not that good . Had problems with paint bleading under the masking tape.
So start in a week the work on the inside 😃
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Re: MY C17

Posted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 11:17 am
by TomW1
I like the paint job. 8)

Re: MY C17

Posted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 1:56 pm
by Fuzz
Really like the paint job and the design :!:

Re: MY C17

Posted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 4:44 pm
by OneWayTraffic
Really impressed by how you got the boat glued to the ceiling.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 5:22 pm
by WHP
to do the paint job and building was Easy , but getting it to the seiling was hard :lol:

Re: MY C17

Posted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 1:08 am
by Fuzz
:lol:

Re: MY C17

Posted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 8:00 am
by topwater
I thought flipping my boat was hard , he flipped the whole garage :wink:

Re: MY C17

Posted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 8:34 am
by WHP
I m lucky , don't have to turn the boat over I just have to drop it. 😇

Re: MY C17

Posted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 9:06 am
by Aripeka Angler
I had to open the image on a pc to see what to heck y"all were laughing about :lol: My ipad shows the photo correctly :doh:
Very nice looking work!

Re: MY C17

Posted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 10:02 am
by Eric1
Your boat looks GREAT!

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 3:41 am
by WHP
Today we turned the hull. 5 friends helped with the job. It wasn't heavy and we had it done in short time after was leberkäse semmel and bier . Time 9.30 am . A job well done deserves a drink 👍😉. Later on i took all the braving out and started to clean up the inside. The boat is back on the modified trolley.
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Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 10:12 am
by pee wee
Ah, it's nice to have friends! Boat is looking great, congratulations on the milestone.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 2:09 pm
by Fuzz
Feels really good to have her right side up and all in one piece I bet :D

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 2:50 pm
by Jeff
WHP, nice work!! Great friends!! Jeff

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 4:26 pm
by Browndog
Way to go! Looks great. Hope to be at that stage in a week or two.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 8:22 pm
by BB Sig
Looks good right side up! Congrats!

Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 2:41 am
by Deathroll
Hi, hull is looking great.
Where in Sydney did you buy your marine ply etc.
I'm nearly ready to purchase plans after a long time reading the forums.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 9:06 am
by WHP
I'm not in Sydney. Living on the Sunshine Coast. I bought the ply buy Bunker Plywood. Great prices , great service . Good Joie on ply. Can I help some how.
Ok I did tape all the corners / joints with fiver glass and layed out the inside of the hull with thee fibreglass cloth. Tomorrow comes the epoxy. In 2 weeks I get the trailer delivered.
Got a question
The chambers under the sole, should I fill them all with the floating foam or just the outside ones.
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Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2017 9:30 am
by pee wee
You're making good progress. re: the foam, it's up to you.

There are reasons to not foam all the compartments- costs less, weighs less, not necessary to foam everything for keeping the boat afloat.

Then, there are reasons to foam them all- sole will feel more solid, hull will be a little quieter, no room for errant water to accumulate, and no worries about expanding air swelling a compartment in the hot sun.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2017 5:19 pm
by WHP
Is it better to use 2 part flotation foam or blocks and witch holds better over time/ breakdown.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2017 5:28 pm
by BB Sig
2 part foam that is formulated for this purpose. Make sure it is closed cell! :wink:

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2017 8:58 pm
by joe2700
WHP wrote: Tue Jun 27, 2017 5:19 pm Is it better to use 2 part flotation foam or blocks and witch holds better over time/ breakdown.
I was just thinking through this yesterday and settled on foam blocks for a few reasons. By foam blocks I mean the Dow Styrofoam Buoyancy Billets, the blue dock foam. This was just my thinking, not a recommendation.

The main reason is that the actual volume and density you achieve with the 2 part foam depends on the ambient temperature(not always hot enough here) and how you work with it. I was worried about ending up with a denser end product than the ideal meaning more weight and more foam to buy. The premade blocks should be the ideal density straight through. That stuff is very durable(floats in the open water for years and years) as long as you don't get a significant fuel spill under the sole.

The other reason unique to me is that I despise foam in boats, and really want to just limber everything below the sole together and keep it empty and dry down there. I don't want to take the risk of having the boat sink if I put a hole in the hull though. What I've settled on is putting a block of foam in each compartment, attached to the bottom of the sole before I glue it down. I'll cut them so there is a gap between the foam and the hull which won't impede water from flowing to the stern in any way. I might glass them in with very thin cloth or just 5200 the hell out of them, not sure.

It's not a common way to do it, but no one has pointed out the fatal flaw yet. I might have to find it in practice.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Jun 30, 2017 7:30 pm
by WHP
Next question about transducer. I got one tru the hull. Want to prep it now when I do all the work under the sole. Do I place the transducer left or right side of the stringer and about 100 mm from transom?

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Jun 30, 2017 10:44 pm
by TomW1
Is this a one that extends below the hull, if so place it as close to the center line and away from any disturbances caused by strakes and keels. You want a smooth flow over it.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Jun 30, 2017 11:21 pm
by WHP
It's one the go true the hull .I just got keel no strakes .

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat Jul 01, 2017 2:29 am
by TomW1
WHP wrote: Fri Jun 30, 2017 11:21 pm It's one the go true the hull .I just got keel no strakes .
Okay here is what I would suggest. Move it out away from the keel and build up a flat spot to mount it on. Blend the flat spot into the hull so that it is doesn't just all of create a sharp edge as the water hits it.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Jul 04, 2017 10:34 pm
by WHP
I'm working on the motor well. If i see that correct the motor well bottom is set in an angle half way up the clamping board. :help:

Re: MY C17

Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2017 10:17 am
by pee wee
I don't have the plans for the C17, but the plans for similar boats have the bottom of the motor well at sole height, and then a sloped upper panel that typically has an access hatch in it. The height of the top can be adjusted to keep clear of motor mounting holes.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2017 8:48 pm
by TomW1
WHP wrote: Tue Jul 04, 2017 10:34 pm I'm working on the motor well. If i see that correct the motor well bottom is set in an angle half way up the clamping board. :help:
That is correct. I am away from home on a personal issue and don't have my plans, but yes it slopes toward the transom clamping board from the frame in front of it. It is a fairly large board. You will want to put an access hatch in it to be able to reach the bilge pump, bait pump, fish/depth sender.

Tom

Re: MY C17

Posted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 7:47 pm
by WHP
I got the sole cut, got boyency foam in. I used the one in thick sheets and cut it. Ready to epoxy/ fibreglass the sole down . Here is the question should I build in some of the round inspection hatches.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 9:38 pm
by TomW1
No they are just places where water can find its way under the deck. Only openings should be for the steering controls, electrical panels and the bilge next to the motor for fuel filter and other pumps.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat Jul 15, 2017 9:04 pm
by WHP
Ok floor is in place. Should i fibreglass the whole floor or just seam on the side (floor to hull).It would make the floor stronger but it is aded weight . Starting tomorrow with fit out of cabin .

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat Jul 15, 2017 10:04 pm
by Fuzz
I like some glass on the decks. The biggest reason for that is impact resistance. Sooner or later heavy stuff is going to get dropped on the deck and you do not need it breaking through the epoxy. Just my thoughts.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 12:41 am
by TomW1
Most people use 4 or 6 oz biax on the sole for protection from bumps in the night. :D

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Jul 21, 2017 9:49 pm
by Deathroll
when you do put the fabric down, do you roll epoxy on the entire hull piece you are going to lay the fiberglass cloth over to wet it up before you lay it back down?, like when you prepare for taping the frames and keel etc? or just wet through the fabric?

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Jul 21, 2017 10:16 pm
by seaslug
I find it would be very difficult, even with a helper, to drape the cloth over a sticky hull covered in epoxy, so I lay the cloth out where it needs to be and pour the resin out of a 24 oz. container and move it around slowly and let it saturate the cloth as you move along the hull. I keep the mixing cup in 1 hand, pouring as I go, and a spreader in the other hand. Let the resin puddle until it thoroughly saturates the cloth before moving further along the hull. You'll get a good feel for how the process works with your first batch, than just keep moving. It's a slow methodical process, with no need for hurrying or panic. After moving a few feet along the hull, go back and lightly squeegee and pull excess resin up to where you're working. If a batch of resin starts to kick off as you're working, dump it and use smaller batches or work faster. If you're fortunate enough to have a helper, great, it will make the process that much easier. Good luck. Mike

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat Jul 22, 2017 4:27 am
by fishgitr
IDK what the other guys do..I coat my complete panel with resin when I tape the seams. Once it has dried, I lay my cloth out and do as SEASLUG said. It seems as if the plywood draws resin from the cloth if you do it on a dry panel..

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat Jul 22, 2017 7:34 am
by topwater
I do it like Mike aka Sea Slug , pour it on the hull and work it in with a squeegee and pull out the excess.
Hull sides i use a roller to put it on heavy and then use the squeegee to pull it around.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat Jul 22, 2017 9:20 am
by gonandkarl
Hi,
Went thru your whole thread for the first time, dont know how I missed it so far. You are making fast progress and I wish you all the best for the finish. I had the same problem my wife said she wont come onto a boat without a loo. So this was one of the first tests of the boat with my Thetford porta potti. As I am not finished with my boat the wife s idea has changed over the years and now it is: I dont think I really want to go onto your boat. So what, I have a portable loo all by myself.The moral of the story is to buy the head only shortly before splashing and when you are sure it will be used by your wife.

Image

Greetings from Karl

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2017 7:20 pm
by WHP
First i did what the other people said , I laid out the fibreglass cloth let it sit there overnight to hang out and then started to pour epoxy .
I'm getting a camping toilet found a way to build it in keeps the wife happy, keeps me happy. Building the back benches and the bunks in cabin.Is all very fiddly .

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2017 9:21 pm
by WHP
Cutting the boards for bunks . Frame B is in the way can i cut part of it out and strengthen the top part. :help: i think the picture is side ways . second picture is frame with boards in .
Frame B
Frame B
Frame B 1.jpeg

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2017 10:30 pm
by TomW1
Nicely done.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 5:07 pm
by WHP
Can i cut part of B Frame? See picture in previous post. :help:

Re: MY C17

Posted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 8:25 pm
by BB Sig
Usually not where you want to. :( Maybe Jacques will respond. Jacques normal rule is that you have to leave 3" of the frame secured to the hull.

Could you make a new frame to go in between the frame you are cutting and the next one just at where your bunks will? I think I would still reinforce frame B with a at least a 3" strip all around.

Jacques will probably have a more eloquent suggestion! :lol:

Re: MY C17

Posted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 9:59 pm
by TomW1
Yep Barry was right you need 3" of frame all around.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 10:36 pm
by WHP
Thank you guys, will not cut frame. 👍
Should I place a scupper from deck to motor well and place a bilge pump in the motor well. :?:

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 7:29 pm
by WHP
Got the front done with the anchor well. Should I fibreglass the top.
IMG_3117.JPG

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 8:04 pm
by Eric1
I would.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 9:40 pm
by TomW1
Yes to both of your last two questions. The anchor well top and bilge pump.

Tom

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Aug 25, 2017 2:03 am
by WHP
Big question :help: 60hp Yamaha or mercury :doh: 8) .Same price

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Aug 25, 2017 3:28 am
by Fuzz
WHP wrote: Fri Aug 25, 2017 2:03 am Big question :help: 60hp Yamaha or mercury :doh: 8) .Same price
I will be first to chime in :D To me they would be equal so I would chose according to the best dealer. I am betting most will say Yamaha though.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Aug 25, 2017 5:56 pm
by TomW1
Agree with Fuzz. Which dealer is going to provide the best service to you. That is the most important thing you will need over the 20 years you own the motor.

Tom

Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 2:17 am
by WHP
Got the roof on the cabin and starting to ad all the little things. Kleats bow roller and......
I got the Yamaha T60 .
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Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 2:28 am
by Fuzz
Did turning the boat upside down make it easier to put the roof on :lol: :lol:
Boat is looking really nice :!:

Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 5:10 am
by Eric1
I'm impressed! Flipping that boat to install the pilot house is genius!! :lol: :lol:

All jokes aside the boat really does look great. :D

Re: MY C17

Posted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 8:00 am
by WHP
I don't know what happens with the pictures when I look at them they are straight correct way up and when I post them the are upside down.
Anyway I'm done with two coats of undercoat start tomorrow with topcoat.
Registered the trailer today. Tomorrow or Saturday we move the boat on to the trailer.
On Friday I'm getting the outboard motor( 4stroke 60hp Yamaha T60lb ) .
The latest picture.
9581E4F0-DAFC-411C-8214-2B96AE926F4C.jpg

Re: MY C17

Posted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 8:30 am
by Jeff
WHP, nice work!! Jeff

Re: MY C17

Posted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 6:32 pm
by glossieblack
WHP, thanks for making contact about the Aussie bateau2 boat builders' meet. It lead me your build thread, which I haven't been following. My loss, as your C17 build is coming along very nicely.

I like her lines a lot. Will you use her for overnight expeditions in the Pumicestone Passage and beyond?

Re: MY C17

Posted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 10:15 pm
by WHP
Will start using her first in Pumicestone Passage and then Moreton Bay , Harvey Bay and if all of that works out I want to go to Withsundays next year. So I will definitely come to Noosa by boat.
Still got my first build boat the FL14. Wife said to sell one of them :doh: .

Re: MY C17

Posted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 11:52 pm
by Fuzz
Tell wife that is totally unreasonable :!: After all how many pairs of shoes does she have :lol:

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2017 6:27 pm
by WHP
It's on the trailer . Happy day :D . In the sunshine I can see some mistakes so putty will come out to rectify it.
image.jpg
o

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2017 9:24 pm
by willg
She is beautiful! You should bring her to the northern hemisphere, though, so she's right side up!

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 4:56 am
by glossieblack
This beauty was built just down the coast from me. I can assure all those of you living down under us in the northern hemisphere that the picture I see on my screen is right way up.

Just to prove the point that you guys are upside down, I'm reposting it right way up on my screen, but to you, it will appear upside down. :D

Image

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 7:21 am
by danieloldhouse
Wow! She beats even the gravity law :lol: :lol: :lol:

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 7:46 am
by Jeff
Really nice work from Down Under!! Jeff

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 1:31 pm
by narfi
So what you are saying is that the image appears right side up to those viewing from south of the equator?
But to those of us north of the equator it appears upside down?

I have found that my phone does not imbed enough info on the pictures it takes, but if I slightly edit it on the default image editor on my phone (even slight cropping which also helps with file size) then the editor saves it with the proper info imbedded in it.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 5:09 pm
by TomW1
Beautiful boat, Very nicely done.

Tom

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 8:04 pm
by WHP
Thanks everybody, so she gets the motor (4 stroke Yamaha T60 ) on , the steering , 2 batteries. Build in the transducer and then had to start with rest of electrics. Got bowroller and windlass on . Got a week off boatbuilding till I get her back. Cheers Peter

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 1:49 am
by TomW1
Peter you need any help in selecting a prop for that beauty. If so let me know.

Tom

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 7:18 am
by WHP
Tom I don’t know if I afford a stainless prop ,for the beginning might just run it with the one it comes with. Does prop make a big difference.

Peter

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 12:11 pm
by Eric1
WHP wrote: Sat Sep 23, 2017 7:18 am Tom I don’t know if I afford a stainless prop ,for the beginning might just run it with the one it comes with. Does prop make a big difference.

Peter
BIG TIME! :) Think of the prop as the transmission in your car. You have to be in the right gear to get the performance you want. :wink:

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 9:52 pm
by TomW1
Peter normally a 60HP motor does not come with a prop, so you will be buying one any way. I don't know what props cost in Australia but in the US an aluminum is $125 and a SS is $350. So your only talking an incremental $225 for better performance, toughness, and longevity.

After spending $6000 on your motor do you want to short change it with the prop? I am not going to poo-poo an aluminum prop you should probably have one on board as a spare in case some thing happens to your main prop, unlikely but possible. I have one on my boat. It's just good seamanship.

If your going to stay with an aluminum I can work those numbers up for you also.

Tom

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 7:09 am
by WHP
Hi Tom, I’m not against spending some money for the better part( propeller) . I went in Brisbane to the boat show and I got a package deal . T60lb Yamaha alloy propeller, 2 round comandlink gauges,controls all build in for US $6700.-
I would like to look for a stainless prop but what do I look for and do I have to use Yamaha or is there other better ones around.

Peter

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 1:23 pm
by Fuzz
If it were me and I already had a prop I would go ahead and run the boat with it. After you run the boat and get some good performance numbers and a true all up fishing weight then go for the SS prop. After running the boat a bit you will know if there are any proprieties you are looking for in a new prop. The prop you have now can serve as a backup. With all the info TomW can dial you in on a good prop. He did great picking my new prop :D

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 1:47 pm
by TomW1
Peter that is a great deal. The Yamaha alloy prop is in between an aluminum and a SS so may be all you need. Go ahead and run your motor with it for a while till your motor is broken in and see how it performs. You should at top speed reach 5800 - 6000 rpm's and cruise at 3000-4000 in the mid to upper 20 mph's.

Yes there is an other prop brand that is highly regarded world wide that is available in Australia. It is called Solas. I looked it up there are two dealers for them there. Propeller Warehouse www.solas.com.au and Just Propellers W.A. www.propellers.com.au I just helped Fuzz reprop his boat with one and it dropped his lowest planning speed from 20 mph to 14-16 mph his top end speed is now 38 mph at 5800 rpms.

Get your motor broken in and if your want to go for a SS get in touch and I will let you know all the information I will need to make the right selection. It will include things like weight of the hull which is listed at 650lbs in the study plans but did you build it heavier. Then the weight of everything that you put in the boat as you leave the dock, crew, gear, coolers, safety equipment. I have the weight of the motor but Yamaha has quit publishing the gear ratio so will need that. These are most of the things I will need I have probably left out a couple but you get the jist.

Tom

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Sep 26, 2017 1:21 am
by WHP
Thanks for all the info. Just for reverence
T60LB 118kg , Gear Ratio 2.33 : 1
I will start running the motor with the current propeller and when I know how that goes can give you some figures and we go from there.
Peter

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 9:28 pm
by WHP
Ok motor is on. Windows are in . 2 batteries in boxes installed and connected. Fuel tank ,line and filter connected .Just electrical and latches for back hatches.
I hope the picture comes out correct.

Peter
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Re: MY C17

Posted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 9:55 pm
by cape man
She looks awesome with the new motor. Look at the prop for 2 numbers. One will be diameter and the other the pitch. After you run her, you can tell a lot about changing the prop if you decide to based on what she does with that prop. Dropping pitch will increase rpm - increasing will lower rpms. Same with diameter. You want that sweet spot where wide open she's turning around 6000.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Sun Oct 08, 2017 6:51 am
by WHP
The numbers on my prop are: 13 5/8 x 13-K

Peter

Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 3:14 pm
by WHP
Could somebody tell me whats the maximum draughty of the C 17 :help: . Need it for registration.
Working on the last bits of electric. Make the boat license next week and register her and if all works out in two weeks is the launch.
Cheers Peter

Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 4:01 pm
by jacquesmm
Say 6".
It will depend on the load and vary but let's say designed draft is 6".

Re: MY C17

Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 10:38 pm
by TomW1
WHP wrote: Sun Oct 08, 2017 6:51 am The numbers on my prop are: 13 5/8 x 13-K

Peter
That is good to know if you need or want to change props. As far as cape mans comments they hold only if you stay with the same prop. If you want to improve performance and take into account rake and cup and go to a SS prop or go to a 4 blade prop many other calculations come into effect.

You take care and I look forward to your launch.

Tom

Re: MY C17

Posted: Thu Nov 16, 2017 10:56 pm
by WHP
We made the boating license ( Australia ). All electrical is working , boat is registered ,got a name "Sturm 2" . Tuesday is launching day "D-Day".
looking so forward to it .I hope the picture is coming up correct .
in hind sight i could have worked cleaner , spent more time on fairing and other things . I'm still very happy what i made.
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Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 12:50 am
by DAVE LUDICK
WHP, that is a very neat build, well done, may you have many, many hours of enjoyment using her.

Dave

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 3:28 am
by Fuzz
Very nice looking :!: I hope it brings you a ton of joy. We all will be interested in the launch and how it runs.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 4:20 am
by Eric1
I hope you make a launch video! Have fun!! :D

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 5:01 am
by glossieblack
She's a head turner. 8)

Looking forward to meeting you both at the inaugural Bateau2 Aussie builders meet in Noosa, mid first week of May next year. :D

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 5:33 am
by WHP
Thanks everybody. We will be in Noosa. 👍😉

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 5:44 am
by icelikkilinc
Beatiful, nice looking color scheme. Very well done, enjoy the ride :D

imho, a very light grey/whitish non skid might add to the overall look/functionality.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 7:16 am
by Rmarsh
Your boat looks great! I have the same outboard motor on my C17 ...perfect fit imo.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 8:09 am
by pee wee
That turned out very nicely, congratulations! It looks like you built her light, she should perform well and get good fuel economy. I like the open storage bays.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 4:42 pm
by TomW1
That is one gorgeous C17, congratulations on a job well done. Look forward to your launch and rpm numbers at various points up to wide open throttle to see if you have the right pitch on your prop.

Tom

Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 7:47 pm
by WHP
Finally I got Sturm 2 into the water. Was very nervous. But all went good . It’s floating. Comes easy on and of the trailer. Started her and went for a small run . Still be careful with the engine first run but not even half power and I had it on planing (20knots= 22 km/h). So far I’m very happy 😃.
Cheers Peter
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Re: MY C17

Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 10:13 pm
by Fuzz
Congratulations :!: Boat looks great. When you get more time on it please let us know how it preforms.

Re: MY C17

Posted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 12:01 am
by TomW1
Wow that is a pretty boat on the water. Let us know what your speeds are at various rpm's when you get her broken in. That 60 should move here right along. I know what a 50 does. What prop do you have on her.

Tom

Re: MY C17

Posted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 12:06 am
by WHP
Thanks Tom,
The numbers on my prop are: 13 5/8 x 13-K

Peter