Oops, I did get one thing wrong here. I think the beast way to position the new reference line is to work from the corner point closest to the other piece already drawn on this sheet. The point is offset at 31-1/2 vertical and 50-1/4 horizontal. Make sure the rest of the offsets stay on the sheet and you should have it. Hate to admit but I might make a cheap luan ply template as I read my own writing here.
Thinking back now I'm wondering how I did this myself 9 years ago.
Narfi's FS17 - Build Thread
Re: Narfi's FS17 - Build Thread
Narfi,
Unless someone is willing to draw it in CAD that measurement probably isn't available. I'm not even sure you could draw a straight line between the two parts. If you lay out your bottom panels first you'll be able to see where the part fits on the remaining portion of plywood. Remember you're not technically measuring from the edge of a sheet of plywood but from a line that just happens to fall on the edge of two plywood sheets.
It's a little squirrelly but saves about $100 worth of plywood.
Good luck
Chuck
Unless someone is willing to draw it in CAD that measurement probably isn't available. I'm not even sure you could draw a straight line between the two parts. If you lay out your bottom panels first you'll be able to see where the part fits on the remaining portion of plywood. Remember you're not technically measuring from the edge of a sheet of plywood but from a line that just happens to fall on the edge of two plywood sheets.
It's a little squirrelly but saves about $100 worth of plywood.
Good luck
Chuck
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Re: Narfi's FS17 - Build Thread
So I layed a sheet of plywood over a large sheet of cardboard and cut a nice straight 2 square sides to work with.
Then drew out my problem panel and cut it out as a pattern.
Once transferred to the plywood I wrote down all the measurements if anyone has this in the future it will get them close.
Obviously not perfect as you loose a little each time you transfer something like that. I rounded to the nearest 1/8th.
If nothing else it will get the next guy close enough to draw a reference line from.
Zoom in to read my notes on the plywood.
I was thinking about a 2" camber on the bow. Is that possible or practical? I think it would look kind of nice rounded off on the front.....
Then drew out my problem panel and cut it out as a pattern.
Once transferred to the plywood I wrote down all the measurements if anyone has this in the future it will get them close.
Obviously not perfect as you loose a little each time you transfer something like that. I rounded to the nearest 1/8th.
If nothing else it will get the next guy close enough to draw a reference line from.
Zoom in to read my notes on the plywood.
I was thinking about a 2" camber on the bow. Is that possible or practical? I think it would look kind of nice rounded off on the front.....
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Re: Narfi's FS17 - Build Thread
Got all the 1/4" plywood peices cut.
Decided to round the bow 2" if someone can convince me it's unseaworthy or ugly I can still cut them straight to plans.
Thinking forward.
The rub rails could be 3x strips of 1/4 or 2x strips of 3/8. How much difficulty would I have bending the 3/8?
I've got 2x 1/2 sheets of 1/4 and 2x 1/3rdish sheets. All four pieces full length.
Would it be better to use them for the gunwals and save some weight? After finishing the canoe at 160% of designed weight and knowing I want this fs17 to be tough as well, I am sure I'll be fighting weight issues with it as well........
Decided to round the bow 2" if someone can convince me it's unseaworthy or ugly I can still cut them straight to plans.
Thinking forward.
The rub rails could be 3x strips of 1/4 or 2x strips of 3/8. How much difficulty would I have bending the 3/8?
I've got 2x 1/2 sheets of 1/4 and 2x 1/3rdish sheets. All four pieces full length.
Would it be better to use them for the gunwals and save some weight? After finishing the canoe at 160% of designed weight and knowing I want this fs17 to be tough as well, I am sure I'll be fighting weight issues with it as well........
- bigyellowtractor
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Re: Narfi's FS17 - Build Thread
I'd be tempted to see what it looks like when it's stitched together and make up your own mind.
(you're making a wide, square sterned HC, aren't you ??)
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Re: Narfi's FS17 - Build Thread
Glad to see you back at it. Sorry for any seeds of confusion I may have spread. Wish I had dome more of the same to the bow. It might be a bit harder to get it to get it closed but you can reduce the curve if needed. The Build Notes do mention rounding that line as I remember.narfi wrote: ↑
Fri Sep 22, 2017 1:23 am
Decided to round the bow 2" if someone can convince me it's unseaworthy or ugly I can still cut them straight to plans.
Regarding weight......As long as you dont get too carried away with resin you should be able to build this pretty light. Your choice of okume, vs. my meranti build, automatically saves over 20% of the wood weight.
Are you building center console or tiller steering?
Bill
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Re: Narfi's FS17 - Build Thread
Well, I stare and think at the instructions and plywood a little each night... haven't gotten very far yet.
Thinking about the motorwell bulkhead "E", the top of it is at deck height (14") above the baseline.
Would it look or work better if it followed the shape and height of the transom?
Advantages being a little more storage inside and a different look.
Disadvantages being primarily I think that you would no longer have a lip to keep stuff you set on it from sliding off into the water....
Thinking about all the many parts I need to cut out all nested tightly on each sheet of plywood sure seems to take more brain power than cutting out the canoe panels did.
Biggest problem is probably me overthinking it, but I would hate to screw something up or ruin a piece of plywood.
Thinking about the motorwell bulkhead "E", the top of it is at deck height (14") above the baseline.
Would it look or work better if it followed the shape and height of the transom?
Advantages being a little more storage inside and a different look.
Disadvantages being primarily I think that you would no longer have a lip to keep stuff you set on it from sliding off into the water....
Thinking about all the many parts I need to cut out all nested tightly on each sheet of plywood sure seems to take more brain power than cutting out the canoe panels did.
Biggest problem is probably me overthinking it, but I would hate to screw something up or ruin a piece of plywood.
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Re: Narfi's FS17 - Build Thread
sooooo....
Why can you build it "per plan" (or at least cut it per plan), put if kind of together (if I follow other threads right you've got to get the hull together with stingers in which means faired etc before you have to really finalize this plan), and then, once you see it kind of together use your epoxy and fiberglass skills to extend the prices later?
Make any sense at all?
Why can you build it "per plan" (or at least cut it per plan), put if kind of together (if I follow other threads right you've got to get the hull together with stingers in which means faired etc before you have to really finalize this plan), and then, once you see it kind of together use your epoxy and fiberglass skills to extend the prices later?
Make any sense at all?
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Re: Narfi's FS17 - Build Thread
Yep, makes sense, and was near the top of my list of solutions
I can't cut it oversized now anyways as it wouldnt fit on the strongback properly..... only other option I could think of would be an OSB temporary one like all the rest of the bulkheads.
I can't cut it oversized now anyways as it wouldnt fit on the strongback properly..... only other option I could think of would be an OSB temporary one like all the rest of the bulkheads.
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Re: Narfi's FS17 - Build Thread
that's not a bad solution... use the OSB for temp just make sure you don't glue it in accidentally. Then you can make it what ever size you want when it is time for "real parts" with no joints.
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