New Outboard for RB14

[Aripeka Angler]

RIchard no but have several friends that have and they have never had a problem. Also Larry's brother belonged to a club that used Suzuki's and swore by them. Since I can't get a Yamaha around here I would have gone that way if I hadn't gotten No Excuse.

Tom

So you have never owned a Suzuki?

[TomW1]

Richard I said no. Enough of this. What's your point. I explained why in my post above. You once said that all motors are equal only I can''t find the post you said it in. If you really want to get into a dicussion on this lets do it.


Tom

[jtdums]

Just to provide other with some information that I have found out thus far, Suzuki is the only outboard company that I have found so far that will allow their outboards to be shipped direct to the buyer from a dealer with the remote controls instead of tiller. (They still consider any motor up to 30hp portable even with all the options.)

Also, Capt's lead has panned out well. Suzuki is offering a free extended warrantee until end of the year. Covered for 6 years.

I might be falling in love.

With the outboard...right!

Sorry Capt, should have been clearer on this point.

[jtdums]

The 25 and 30 HP Suzuki motors have the same specifications basically. So you might as well go for the 30 it will not give you a lot more speed as I have found running my calculations but maybe 3-4 mph's. A four blade propeller will help in your steering and maintaining running control. You may or may not get a 3 blade aluminum prop with the Suzuki.

I like the Suzuki's good motors. Be aware the Onlineoutboards 30HP is a 20" shaft. Check with them if you can get a short shaft. Also remember a short shaft may not be 15" it may be 17".

Tom

Tom,
Thanks for the feedback. This is exactly what I was looking for and I respect the hell out of the knowledge you share with the forum when it comes to props and motors.

The Suzuki would have to be the 25hp. The 30 is offered with the long shaft only it would appear. Kind of crazy since the change in the motor seems so minor to gain the extra 5hp. I will certainly clarify with the dealer though just to be absolutely clear.

Also, I will follow up on the forum with what ever motor/prop combo I end up with in the interest of providing other future builders as much information as possible.

[jtdums]

I'm still trying to avoid the "best" motor discussion since everyone has favorites. I haven't managed to find any documented negative feedback on the Suzuki. Absent that, this looks to be a good choice for me even if it is only available in the 25hp model. I think I will sacrifice the top end speed for the convenience of the power trim. (I suspect that the power trim may compensate for the difference in hp by enabling me to "dial in" the motor on the fly with different weight aboard.)

If I were to build the RB14 again, or another boat of similar size/ design, I might consider raising the transom up to the 20" long shaft only because there are more options currently available. (although I have to admit I like the idea of the "tucked away" 15" short shaft motor for the aesthetics of the RB)

When it comes down to it, if I want power trim and tilt and don't want to add a bracket for looks or weight, then with the short transom some of the "popular" motors are out of contention. (Yamaha F25, Etec 30,25) because they don't offer the right length shaft with this configuration.

Further, since the Suzuki DF25ATS2 is considered "portable" and Suzuki doesn't limit their dealers from shipping outboards with remotes (most other brands seem to limit this) I can get the entire package dropped at my door step. At around 150lbs it won't be easy, but from experience I know that I can hang that motor in my garage without too much difficulty.

No matter the brand, I wanted the controls before hand because I don't want just anyone cutting holes in my new boat! Every dealer I spoke with was OK with this so no problem there.

Now I just need to tell my kids that I'm canceling Christmas and all future vacations will be taken locally on the water.

[Capt UB]

The RB14 is a 15" or 20". It's in the study plans. My boat is the FS14, says 20" shaft, but transom is 19 5/8". My 2017 Tohatsu 9.8 4 stroke (87 lbs.) short shaft is 18". which puts the cav. plate up 1.5" from the bottom. Safe and better for skinny water. I did not buy this ob for this boat, I would have bought the 20" (Long shaft). Anyway, go for the long shaft. A jackplate if needed will help.

[byboatbuilder]

For what it is worth, I purchased and installed a Suzuki DF30A on the FS17 I completed in 2016 and have been delighted with the performance. This is the max HP that includes remote with trim and tilt that I found available online. Delivery and installation was seamless and Suzuki's 6 year extended warranty was a plus. Changed the prop to stainless this summer which resulted in a slight bump up in efficiency.

[Aripeka Angler]

For what it is worth, I purchased and installed a Suzuki DF30A on the FS17 I completed in 2016 and have been delighted with the performance. This is the max HP that includes remote with trim and tilt that I found available online. Delivery and installation was seamless and Suzuki's 6 year extended warranty was a plus. Changed the prop to stainless this summer which resulted in a slight bump up in efficiency.

That's what I'm talking about, great report.

[jacquesmm]

Captain UB, the industry standard is 15, 20 and 25" but I have seen a bunch of shafts that do not respect the standard.
Builders should know what their shaft is before cutting the transom.

When I design a transom for example for a 20" shaft, I often set the clamp at 19.5". That gives the builder 1/2" to play with if he decides a wants the engine a down a little bit.
In most cases, it will be installed the other way, 1/2" higher. That works fine as designed.

[Capt UB]

Captain UB, the industry standard is 15, 20 and 25" but I have seen a bunch of shafts that do not respect the standard.
Builders should know what their shaft is before cutting the transom.

When I design a transom for example for a 20" shaft, I often set the clamp at 19.5". That gives the builder 1/2" to play with if he decides a wants the engine a down a little bit.
In most cases, it will be installed the other way, 1/2" higher. That works fine as designed.

Good to know.

My 2017 NMZ 15.4 Gheenoe was a 15", the motor I have now was for that boat. The cav. plate went way below the bottom!
The FS14, will be just right, no changes from me. Anyway, I'll know by the end of November when I do a float test with motor on.