Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Posted: **Sun Nov 12, 2017 8:30 pm**

I finally settled on the OB17 plans, so went ahead and bought the CNC okume kit as well as the silvertip epoxy kit sold on the OB17 page. Picked up the pallet of sheets at the local freight terminal, and proceeded to get started on this major investment now taking up residence in my shop. Built the jig, glued the stringers and transom clamping boards, attached the molds to the jig, zip-tied and fillet-glued the hull pieces, fiberglass taped the seams, and am starting to fiberglass the hull.
Once I figure out how to put annotated pictures on here I'll post them in chronological order, and proceed to post the building progress from there to give and receive useful advice from fellow OB17 builders. There is a wealth of information on these forums and I've been trying to absorb all these good tips so I won't look back on any mistakes.
It's kinda fun to hear people say "you're building a WHAT? in your shop??"

Posted: **Sun Nov 12, 2017 8:35 pm**

I look forward to your build pictures and hats off to you for jumping right into your build. I think they make one heck of a kit and I hope your build comes together without a hitch.

Posted: **Sun Nov 12, 2017 8:42 pm**

Using the builders galleries here is pretty easy and you will not lose them due to something like what photobucket pulled.
Welcome to the party, we all like to see pictures

Posted: **Sun Nov 12, 2017 9:09 pm**

Woodenyouknowit, welcome to the Builders Forum!! We very much look forward to following your build!! Again, welcome!! Jeff

Posted: **Sun Nov 12, 2017 9:24 pm**

Welcome aboard! Best wishes for your build.

Posted: **Mon Nov 13, 2017 2:42 pm**

Welcome aboard and look forward to following your build.

Tom

Posted: **Wed Nov 15, 2017 12:29 pm**

ok, think I'm getting these photos figured out. I just put a slew of them on my "gallery", with comments, in chronological order, but the gallery shows them in reverse chronological order for some reason. Now taking a short break from building until after Thanksgiving.

Posted: **Mon Nov 27, 2017 10:32 pm**

Got the popcorn ready.

Posted: **Thu Dec 07, 2017 9:23 pm**

: Rub rail 1st strip

1st layer of rub rail clamped on (picture from gallery)

Posted: **Fri Dec 08, 2017 3:36 am**

Well it sure did not take you long to unload some stuff from your pickup and turn it into a boat looking thing.
Everything looks like you are doing a real good job.

Posted: **Fri Dec 08, 2017 7:28 am**

Woodenyouknowit, very nice progress and thank you for posting the photos!! Jeff

Posted: **Mon Dec 11, 2017 1:41 pm**

Woodenyouknowit wrote: ↑Sun Nov 12, 2017 8:30 pm I finally settled on the OB17 plans, so went ahead and bought the CNC okume kit as well as the silvertip epoxy kit sold on the OB17 page. Picked up the pallet of sheets at the local freight terminal, and proceeded to get started on this major investment now taking up residence in my shop. Built the jig, glued the stringers and transom clamping boards, attached the molds to the jig, zip-tied and fillet-glued the hull pieces, fiberglass taped the seams, and am starting to fiberglass the hull.
Once I figure out how to put annotated pictures on here I'll post them in chronological order, and proceed to post the building progress from there to give and receive useful advice from fellow OB17 builders. There is a wealth of information on these forums and I've been trying to absorb all these good tips so I won't look back on any mistakes.
It's kinda fun to hear people say "you're building a WHAT? in your shop??"

I thought I was moving fast! The CnC kit was a smart move on my part, made for an easy start. I'm in central Florida, so weather has (HAS BEEN WARM), no longer! Have fun and take your time.... I'm building in an open carport, my neighbors in the beginning asked "what are you building", now they stop by and ask hows "the build going"... Got to love the attention!

Posted: **Mon Dec 11, 2017 7:04 pm**

That's nothing compared to the feeling you get from the attention at the boat ramp. Or at the gas station on the way to the boat ramp.

Posted: **Tue Dec 12, 2017 9:12 pm**

Thanks for the comments!
After finishing the rubrail (3 layers 1/4" okume strips 1.5" wide, gelmagiced on without any screws or nails) and keel skeg (1" cypress and round-over router, also gelmagiced on without any fasteners), I am slowing down and cogitating on the spray rail. I ain't about to spend ~$400 for a Taco rail or Smart-rail, so will have to make my own out of wood, and figure out how to gelmagic it onto the chine once again without any fasteners. If the Smart rail can hold with adhesive only, then surely a homemade wood rail can hold with gelmagic only and covered with fiberglass....
I'll experiment with the table saw and make something that can bend and be functional as a spray rail, like maybe a 2-layer rail....

Posted: **Tue Dec 12, 2017 9:49 pm**

Woodenyouknowit wrote: ↑Tue Dec 12, 2017 9:12 pm Thanks for the comments!
After finishing the rubrail (3 layers 1/4" okume strips 1.5" wide, gelmagiced on without any screws or nails) and keel skeg (1" cypress and round-over router, also gelmagiced on without any fasteners), I am slowing down and cogitating on the spray rail. I ain't about to spend ~$400 for a Taco rail or Smart-rail, so will have to make my own out of wood, and figure out how to gelmagic it onto the chine once again without any fasteners. If the Smart rail can hold with adhesive only, then surely a homemade wood rail can hold with gelmagic only and covered with fiberglass....
I'll experiment with the table saw and make something that can bend and be functional as a spray rail, like maybe a 2-layer rail....

There is an old wsy of doing that..... Steam!
Build a box or boiling water pored on towels that are wrap around the wood.

Posted: **Sat Dec 16, 2017 3:03 pm**

Spray rail in progress: Ripped a 2"x3" board and did a cove cut on the tablesaw. Epoxied (gelmagic) it on top of a 3/4" x 3/4" chamfer molding from lowes to make a composite spray rail, and then epoxy with duct tape along the chine. Next is fairing and fiberglassing the spray rail. Pictures from gallery hopefully copy over to here...

Posted: **Sun Dec 17, 2017 8:05 pm**

Congratulations, W, your boat looks great! When it's time to put glass over your spray rail I wonder whether it will take the sharp turn you have on the edge. You might need to blunt that edge a little before glassing, then build it up with putty to the desired profile. Just a thought from where I'm sitting. Keep the pics coming!

Posted: **Mon Dec 18, 2017 9:12 pm**

Yes, that sharp edge might need to be more rounded over; it'll probably take a lot of filling and fairing before it's finished. Thanks for the comment! The rub rail and spray rail and skeg are much more time consuming than I thought they'd be, and I'm almost out of gelmagic. It's very easy to use but costs an arm and leg...

Posted: **Mon Dec 25, 2017 1:46 pm**

Yes. The rail might be a bugger to glass. I’d try to make one (not two) nice radius by hand on the outside with some 40-60 grit-lotsa sanding... Check the join first by trying to break it off with some gentle pressure-that is a perfect place for dry joint to occur just so you know. Winter moldings can be ultradry and resin thirsty. I would have wanted to hot coat the back.

Sorry-just saw gelmagic. You’ll be fine methinks

Good luck!

Posted: **Thu Dec 28, 2017 7:41 pm**

1st strip of fiberglass on spray rail is done! Epoxy with fast hardener in 55 deg, waited until sticky to press on the fiberglass strip, then coated with paintbrush to rub out bubbles.

Posted: **Thu Dec 28, 2017 9:33 pm**

Not sure I've ever noticed spray rails angled up before. Not criticizing...but do you have example of this in use?

Normally a spray rail/chine (spray rail in your case) will be either strait or angled downward. Maybe what I am seeing here is simply something I've not noticed in the past, but is common & has been right under my nose.

Posted: **Thu Dec 28, 2017 9:36 pm**

Looks like it worked out good!

Posted: **Fri Dec 29, 2017 12:45 am**

cape_fisherman wrote: ↑Thu Dec 28, 2017 9:33 pm Not sure I've ever noticed spray rails angled up before. Not criticizing...but do you have example of this in use?

Normally a spray rail/chine (spray rail in your case) will be either strait or angled downward. Maybe what I am seeing here is simply something I've not noticed in the past, but is common & has been right under my nose.

My spray rails on my aluminum boat are similar to what he did, but there is no cove. I'm not sure why the cove wouldn't face down here, but I didn't look close enough before to mention it.

The only thing I wondered about is whether the rail is up high enough. It would stink if it caused any weird walk in a slow turn. Hope they are spec'd by designer.

Posted: **Fri Dec 29, 2017 12:48 am**

What is making the boat white on the transom and up towards the top of the hullsides? Just the lighting? Or did you use fairing compound that much? Kind regards. Anytime anything on my build is white I get nervous.

Posted: **Fri Dec 29, 2017 12:29 pm**

I am by no means a spray rail expert, so I looked at pictures and dimensions of the Smart-rail and tried to copy it somewhat, with the cove cupped downward into the waves. I thought about it just following the chine along its length, but then decided to move it up a little higher back towards the transom, where it'll be just at or slightly below the water line. It'll be very interesting to see how it affects boat handling once it's actually in the water. We might either become airborne or submarine

Posted: **Fri Dec 29, 2017 12:32 pm**

Oh, the white color is the beginning of the fairing work.

Posted: **Sat Dec 30, 2017 8:31 am**

Woodenyouknowit wrote: ↑Fri Dec 29, 2017 12:29 pm I am by no means a spray rail expert, so I looked at pictures and dimensions of the Smart-rail and tried to copy it somewhat, with the cove cupped downward into the waves. I thought about it just following the chine along its length, but then decided to move it up a little higher back towards the transom, where it'll be just at or slightly below the water line. It'll be very interesting to see how it affects boat handling once it's actually in the water. We might either become airborne or submarine

Was there a specific reason to position these rails at a positive angle instead of a reverse angle like we normally see?

Posted: **Sat Dec 30, 2017 5:25 pm**

The spray rails I made were modeled after other builders pics,etc. and they do look like positive angle from the image orientation. They form a more reverse angle between midship and bow. I just want them to deflect water away. One thing for sure is they have been very time consuming to build, epoxy, fair, and fiberglass. I used 9 oz fibglass, the 12 oz was too thick to bend around the rail edge and fillets.

Posted: **Thu Feb 01, 2018 6:32 pm**

I think I'll start a new topic simply called OB17 Project, since this kit project is no longer "new", and this fairing and sanding is wearing me down

. I've spent about 160 hours on her so far. I'll keep putting pics on the personal albums gallery (Woodenyouknowit).

Posted: **Thu Feb 01, 2018 7:43 pm**

You don’t have to change regardless it says new!! Up to you though if you want to start a new thread!! Jeff

Posted: **Fri Feb 02, 2018 9:13 am**

Woodenyouknowit wrote: ↑Thu Feb 01, 2018 6:32 pm I think I'll start a new topic simply called OB17 Project, since this kit project is no longer "new", and this fairing and sanding is wearing me down . I've spent about 160 hours on her so far. I'll keep putting pics on the personal albums gallery (Woodenyouknowit).

She's looking great.

Just keep building. The internet will be here waiting to steal valuable building time from you.....

Posted: **Fri Feb 02, 2018 10:29 am**

The fairing and sanding does end eventually (when you splash it). The boat looks great, really enjoying your build. I found sanding and fairing the hull was like a runner hitting the wall in a race. Once I moved past it my energy came back.

Posted: **Fri Feb 02, 2018 3:57 pm**

Put your name on your new thread so we can look it up later. A plain jane OB17 Build doesn't mean much. A Woodenyouknowit's OB17 Build means something.

Tom

Posted: **Fri Feb 02, 2018 9:49 pm**

Thanks for the comments,I'll just keep on keeping on. Maybe it's time to look for a used boat trailer instead of sanding...

Posted: **Fri Feb 02, 2018 9:52 pm**

I bet Eric1 could make a side-side business out of sanding hulls to a mirror finish.

Posted: **Tue Feb 06, 2018 6:05 pm**

: First complete hull sanding done....

First complete hull sanding done....now ready for more fairing, etc...

Posted: **Wed Feb 07, 2018 6:58 am**

Looks great

Posted: **Thu Feb 08, 2018 6:12 pm**

Looking good so far!

Posted: **Sun Mar 11, 2018 8:40 am**

47 labor hours later: 99% of fairing and sanding is done! I went ahead and Pre-Kote primed above the waterline before priming the hull bottom because I need to buy some below-waterline primer. I used 3 types of fairing material: (a) epoxy and microballon pre-mix from US Composites, (b) Total Boat fairing mix, and (c) Quikfair mix (most expensive). Quikfair has a smooth peanut butter consistency, TotalBoat is between peanut butter and playdoh, and the diy epoxy mix was all over the place, i.e. not very consistent because it takes some effort to achieve consistent viscosity from batch to batch.

Posted: **Sun Mar 11, 2018 9:21 am**

Looking good!

Bogie

Posted: **Thu Mar 22, 2018 8:10 am**

I'm posting more pictures in the gallery "Woodenyouknowit".

Posted: **Wed Apr 04, 2018 4:26 pm**

TotalBoat Protect 2-part epoxy primer below waterline

Posted: **Wed Apr 04, 2018 4:31 pm**

after 5 or 6 coats of primer, Interlux BottomKote, and epoxy-graphite below waterline, and Interlux PreKote and Interlux Brightside above waterline.

Posted: **Wed Apr 04, 2018 4:36 pm**

Disassembled the jig-on-wheels and transformed it into a hull cradle-on-wheels, and rigged up a hoist to lift the hull and position it for flipping.

Posted: **Wed Apr 04, 2018 4:42 pm**

another view of the hull cradle. I used the A,B,C,D, E and transom mold form cutouts as supports, and floor mats for cushions.

Posted: **Wed Apr 04, 2018 4:43 pm**

Hoisting

Posted: **Wed Apr 04, 2018 4:48 pm**

Halfway thru the flip. Using ropes and pulleys with 2 chain hoists attached to an overhead beam, this could have been a one-man job since the boat was so lightweight. I had fiberglass-tabbed all the stringers and frame molds to the hull so it was all rigid during the flip. I cut off most of molds B, C, and D with a jigsaw to lighten the weight some.

Posted: **Wed Apr 04, 2018 4:54 pm**

Flip complete!
I've kept a record of my labor hours to get to this point:
-unload material through hull fiberglassing took 97 hrs
-sanding, fairing, and painting hull took 96 hrs
-spray and rubrails took 31 hrs
-Total of 224 hrs to flipping, over a span of 7 months.
I think I have quite a bit more work to do....

Posted: **Wed Apr 04, 2018 9:35 pm**

Looking good. Love the colors.

Tom

Posted: **Thu Apr 05, 2018 9:25 am**

Great looking boat. You made the turn look easy! Can't wait to see how the inside turns out.

Posted: **Thu Jun 07, 2018 9:27 pm**

Taping inside seams. Layout stringers on an adjacent table.

Posted: **Thu Jun 07, 2018 9:34 pm**

Fiberglass inside hull, layout conduit (pvc dwv pipe), view of pipe rough-in layout (looking into motorwell), and it's time to take another break

Posted: **Fri Jun 08, 2018 5:55 am**

Two builds going on?

Flipped hull looks great! So does the watermelon!!

Posted: **Fri Jun 08, 2018 7:19 am**

Nice progress Woodenyouknowit!! Get us more photo's when possible!! Jeff

Posted: **Fri Jun 08, 2018 2:05 pm**

Putting the stringers and plumbing together outside of the hull has to make it easier. Very slick trick.
Very brave trick, not sure I could be sure it would fit correctly.

Posted: **Fri Jun 08, 2018 2:28 pm**

Fuzz wrote: ↑Fri Jun 08, 2018 2:05 pm Putting the stringers and plumbing together outside of the hull has to make it easier. Very slick trick.
Very brave trick, not sure I could be sure it would fit correctly.

Looked like two builds to me at first!
I guess that's the two builds.... Maybe use hot glue, then install as call for..

Posted: **Fri Jun 08, 2018 6:10 pm**

I don't think I could handle 2 of these projects at once, one is a handful already

I took advantage of roughing in everything I could on the stringers (cutouts, pipe layout, etc.) on a side table to keep from stepping in and out of the hull...It saves a lot of knee bending...Next step is putting it all back into the hull and doing the taping, epoxy, etc..

Posted: **Sat Jun 09, 2018 2:23 am**

Slick trick. It has to save you a bunch of crawling in and out. Plus you can get to stuff easier so more than likely will do better work.

Posted: **Sat Jun 09, 2018 10:17 pm**

Thanks, I pre-fabbed the stringers/cockpit/floor/deck at table height which made it mucho easy to cut the pipe holes, layout pipe lengths and fittings, make a template for the center console/seat layout, and raise the sole plate/ deck an extra inch by epoxying cleats on top of each stringer. Also got a good coat of epoxy on each stringer. Next I'll take it all apart (nothing was glued together) and lay it back down inside the hull for permanent installation (tape/epoxy/foam).

Posted: **Sun Jun 10, 2018 5:45 am**

I really like your idea on preassemble before it all goes into the hull. I could see it working on even a smaller boat like the FS14 I am building. Will you be lifting and placing it in the hull, tack glue the stringers and then disassemble?

Posted: **Sun Jun 10, 2018 2:37 pm**

All the stringers fit together fine without any glue; I just took them all apart and placed them back down into the hull; next step is tape/epoxy them to the hull. here's a pic of one reason i prefabbed on the table- it was easy to epoxy / clamp the wood cleats on top of each stringer to raise the deck an extra inch:

Posted: **Mon Jun 11, 2018 6:06 am**

Looks like it was very easy to get the chase tubes and everything lined up and holes cut also. I really like the idea of preassembly of the stringers and frames on the work bench. They will still need to be trimmed for the thickness of the glass and tape in the hull and stringers.

Posted: **Tue Jun 12, 2018 7:03 pm**

The only other mod I made was to raise the bow nose by about 3". I don't like the droopy-looking OB17 bow, so made the splices before the hull pieces were ziptied together (a looong time ago)

Posted: **Tue Jun 12, 2018 7:10 pm**

Here's some of the preassembled stringers, hatches, etc. re-assembled and sitting down inside the hull. Making them pre-fab on waist high table was a lot easier than climbing in and out of the hull all day. Next step is to climb in and out of the hull all day to epoxy and tape the stringers and keep this project moving on.

Posted: **Sun Jun 17, 2018 7:37 pm**

Lookin' good dude! I may have to come take a ride in it one day....

Posted: **Sun Jun 17, 2018 8:06 pm**

Wow! Your method looks like it is going to pay off!

Posted: **Sun Jul 29, 2018 4:59 pm**

Another little project that put the boat on the back burner for a couple of weeks or so.....

Posted: **Sun Jul 29, 2018 7:00 pm**

BTW, about droopy bows: none of my boats are designed with a droopy bow. This happens when builders do not use a bow mold or forget to check the hull length before starting with the fiberglass work.

Posted: **Sun Jul 29, 2018 10:41 pm**

I used the CNC bow mold but it still looked a little low for my taste so I added a tad more bow rise early on.

Posted: **Tue Aug 07, 2018 10:17 am**

Very cool build!
Any updates?

Posted: **Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:13 pm**

it's been kinda slow, these dog days of summer just zap my energy....

Posted: **Wed Aug 22, 2018 4:25 pm**

Another little project had priority...Now that it's done, maybe time to jump back on the boat...

Posted: **Wed Aug 22, 2018 4:32 pm**

Nice!! Jeff

Posted: **Sat Sep 01, 2018 4:11 pm**

Finally finished the stringer tabs, measured and placed the chase tubes / conduit/pvc pipes and now starting to foam...

Posted: **Sun Sep 02, 2018 8:06 am**

I think you are real smart to have all those chase tubes. Having to stuff everything into one of two is not fun. Your boat is looking great.
Regards
Tom

Posted: **Mon Sep 03, 2018 7:51 am**

Thanks, Tom! I'm making slow progress, been working on this contraption for almost a year but it's still a fun project. Now I'm looking for a used boat trailer so I can plop it down on a trailer and finish the rest of this project. Also need to look for a motor; thinking of a new 70 hp...

Posted: **Mon Sep 03, 2018 8:44 am**

I am heading to Biloxi on 22 Sept to meet Dr Pete and transfer the xf20 kit and yamaha motor to him. I like your state and fresh shrimp right off the boat. You might want to look at the Tohatsu 4 stroke motors as they are cheaper than other ones out there and light weight and come with extras like prop, controls and tach which others charge extra for. They even include a fuel water seperator and fuel hose and SS mounting bolts. Very good reliability. Go look in the dealers workshop and see how many broke motors he has in there or talk with someone from Sea Tow and see what motors break down more frequently. You will be surprised. I also like the Honda's but they are pricier. Suzuki's have good reputation as well from owners.

Regards
Tom in Steinhatchee

Posted: **Fri Oct 12, 2018 6:59 pm**

It's been one whole year since I unloaded the freight shipment of plywood and started this project! Now roughly 377 labor hours later, the OB17 is taking shape and getting much closer to being finished.

Posted: **Fri Oct 12, 2018 7:16 pm**

Good to see you back at it Woodenyouknowit!! Jeff

Posted: **Mon Oct 15, 2018 10:48 am**

The boat looks great. Congrats on the one year sanding anniversary.

Posted: **Mon Oct 15, 2018 8:22 pm**

Thanks!
It's other projects like this one that also tend to slow things down a little

...

Posted: **Tue Oct 16, 2018 9:20 am**

Is that to serenade the aquatic critters? You know, a little bass for the bass?

Posted: **Tue Oct 16, 2018 5:33 pm**

Yes

you know the bigmouth bass love a little bass! I can never find one of these at BassProShop though....

Posted: **Fri Nov 16, 2018 11:07 am**

a few more progress photos

more pics in gallery

Posted: **Fri Nov 16, 2018 11:23 am**

It's looking really good!

Posted: **Fri Nov 16, 2018 1:48 pm**

Nice progress Woodenyouknowit!! Jeff

Posted: **Wed Dec 05, 2018 10:33 am**

Sidewall structure finally epoxied into place, piece by piece; next step is plywood cladding (sidewalls), etc.
This addition and the spray rail addition were very time-consuming.

Posted: **Wed Dec 05, 2018 11:36 am**

That will look good but notice to everyone: that inside wall is not on the plans.
If somebody else wants to build the boat that way, I will help with specs. It should be kept light.

Posted: **Wed Dec 05, 2018 2:16 pm**

I saw the inside walls on somebody else's ob17 and it looked pretty cool, so I used okume 1/4" plywood scraps and lightweight 3/4 x 3/4" pine strips as the skeleton structure for the future 1/8" plywood walls. I positioned the verticals to best match the hull curvature and cut and fit everything using the time-consuming trial and error technique

I figure it all will add about 20 lbs or so to total boat weight.
All that's left of about 22 sheets of 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2" okume plywood so far:

Posted: **Wed Dec 05, 2018 2:45 pm**

Any plans to add floatation foam in there? It will add weight, but would create a lot of upright buoyancy. Not sure if it would be too top heavy. Maybe JM can comment on that idea.

Posted: **Wed Dec 05, 2018 5:22 pm**

Good, it's a lot of work but you kept it light.
About buoyancy: you can glue foam panels in there.

Posted: **Wed Dec 05, 2018 11:49 pm**

Woodenyouknowit wrote: ↑Wed Dec 05, 2018 10:33 am DSCN0139.JPG
Sidewall structure finally epoxied into place, piece by piece; next step is plywood cladding (sidewalls), etc.
This addition and the spray rail addition were very time-consuming.

Really like the side walls idea looks good

Posted: **Thu Dec 06, 2018 1:24 am**

I really like that idea also! You just need to plan things out well for attaching cleats, fuel fills rod holders and other stuff like that.
Jaysens idea of using pore foam would really stiffen the sides plus help to keep her upright if swamped.

Posted: **Thu Dec 06, 2018 8:26 am**

yes, sidewall bouyancy was my real reason for adding the inside walls. I have some extra flotation foam juice to mix up and pour inside the walls. This boat is gonna float, baby!!

Posted: **Thu Dec 06, 2018 10:43 am**

Nice!

Posted: **Tue Dec 11, 2018 7:04 pm**

Partial sidewalls are epoxied in!

Posted: **Tue Dec 11, 2018 8:44 pm**

Are you going to make the gunwales wider? I ask because as it is bow your feet will hit first and try to put you off balance.

Posted: **Wed Dec 12, 2018 12:33 pm**

Fuzz wrote: ↑Tue Dec 11, 2018 8:44 pm Are you going to make the gunwales wider? I ask because as it is bow your feet will hit first and try to put you off balance.

It would definitely be safer if the line from where your feet are to where your legs hit the side was vertical. A wider gunwale would work but one other option to consider would be toe relief. If the bottom 2-4 inches of the sidewalls was open so your foot could go all the way to the outer wall it would help.

Posted: **Wed Dec 12, 2018 1:10 pm**

Somehow the sides look like they have a lot of slope in that picture; almost like an optical illusion. But yes, I'm cogitating on how wide the gunwale will be as I'm running out of plywood scraps

I have just enough to make it about 4-1/2 inches wide....

Posted: **Wed Dec 12, 2018 4:29 pm**

Fuzz wrote: ↑Tue Dec 11, 2018 8:44 pm Are you going to make the gunwales wider? I ask because as it is bow your feet will hit first and try to put you off balance.

Good point. The toes should always be under the coaming. I did not expect that wall to go all the way to the sole.

Posted: **Thu Dec 13, 2018 11:31 am**

this drawing basically shows what I did to the sidewalls. Next I'll add the gunwale to cap it all; I'm thinking about 5" wide for the gunwale, and will add top rails to stop any overanxious angler from toppling over the side

Posted: **Thu Dec 13, 2018 11:32 am**

Original designs shown for comparison to what I did...

Posted: **Thu Dec 13, 2018 12:18 pm**

Yes but the original design does not show an enclosed side. You can get your feet against the side panel.

Posted: **Sat Dec 15, 2018 10:05 am**

View from bow- foam layout for future gunwale (a work in progress)

Posted: **Sat Dec 15, 2018 11:03 am**

I can't tell from the photo how much overhang you've got, but those side decks don't look very wide. Take a level and level up to sheer height from where the sole meets the side walls. Imagine your toes are butted against your inner walls. Think of when you are stopped on the water and you are standing in the boat holding something (fishing rod?)- a wake from a passing boat causes a sharp rocking side to side, or you hook a big fish that you don't want to lose- the inner face of the side decks could keep you from leaning out so far you lose balance.
You don't really gaining usable space by making narrow side decks when the hull flares out, imho. It may just be the way it looks in the photo and it's fine- if so, ignore my comment, or ignore it anyway!

Mocking things up in 3d is a great way to verify what looks good on paper, you can climb in the boat and see how it fits real-size.

Your build is coming along nicely, thanks for posting your progress!

Posted: **Sat Dec 15, 2018 8:26 pm**

What PeeWee said. Those gunwales need to be around twice as wide. JMHO

Posted: **Sat Dec 15, 2018 9:02 pm**

This could just be me but personally on a boat with gunwales that low I don't think you lose nearly as much by giving up toe clearance. I'm tall so this may not apply to everyone but I always just put one foot up on the gunwale in boats like that when I'm fighting a fish.

In a deeper cockpit I think toe room is much more important, but if I'm not going to be leaning against the rails with my thighs, I'm just going to have one boot up there anyway.

Posted: **Sun Dec 16, 2018 9:21 am**

Thanks Cracked-ribs, same thoughts here. The freeboard is only about knee-deep, so neither a wide gunwale or toe clearance will help with balance or safety on this boat. A handrail might be handy to grab onto while climbing back into the boat though....

Posted: **Sun Dec 16, 2018 1:05 pm**

One of the best things about building your own boat is you get to do what you want. Really does not matter what others think, make it the way you want it

Posted: **Mon Dec 17, 2018 6:39 pm**

Looks good to me

Posted: **Sun Dec 23, 2018 3:24 pm**

Looks good! What are you making the gunwhales out of?
If you're like me I'd be more concerned where I'm gonna setup my coffee pot....

Posted: **Sun Dec 23, 2018 6:17 pm**

Hey thanks Woodenfloat, the gunwales were precut from 1/4" okume ply, but I'm thinking about adding a 1/4" layer to beef it up some. That coffepot idea is good!

Posted: **Wed Jan 23, 2019 3:32 pm**

This shows the freeboard btwn deck and gunwales which is about just above knee height. Sidewalls have been taped and fiberglassed, with hinged lid "cubbyholes" for storage and access to gunwale hardware thru-bolts. Next step is to finish fairing the sidewalls, permanently attach the gunwale pieces, and get this contraption finished someday

Posted: **Wed Jan 23, 2019 4:57 pm**

still looking really good!

Posted: **Thu Jan 24, 2019 7:25 am**

She looks so much nicer and bigger than my friends 172 Key West. Keep up the good work.

Posted: **Thu Jan 24, 2019 7:58 am**

Looking really good!

Posted: **Thu Jan 24, 2019 8:28 am**

Nice!! Jeff

Posted: **Thu Jan 24, 2019 6:42 pm**

That is one sweet looking boat you are building. Way to go!

Posted: **Fri Jan 25, 2019 9:51 am**

Hey thanks for the kind comments! I give the credit to ya'll for sharing your pics and threads to inspire all of us boatbuilders.

Posted: **Tue Mar 26, 2019 2:19 pm**

Here's a cheap substitute for non-slip finish: gray fiberglass window screen cloth just painted over. I did add a little fine sand to the paint, and this screen cloth works great. It keeps me from sanding to get a glass-smooth finish, since the Brightside paint shows up every little blemish, so I used this stuff on the deck and sidewalls and hatch covers. I don't like the charcoal color cloth because the mesh holes are smaller and takes more paint to cover it well....

Posted: **Tue Mar 26, 2019 2:23 pm**

Almost there! Once it's on a trailer I'll finish it up. First I need to find a trailer, then a motor, etc then get it registered etc etc....

Posted: **Tue Mar 26, 2019 3:45 pm**

Looking nice!

Posted: **Tue Mar 26, 2019 5:52 pm**

Looking very good!

Posted: **Tue Mar 26, 2019 7:18 pm**

Oh Hell yes! Gorgeous!

Posted: **Wed Mar 27, 2019 8:06 am**

Very nice!!!!n Jeff

Posted: **Tue Apr 02, 2019 6:02 pm**

view from stern, also shows my homemade railing up front. i used 3/4" emt conduit (and a conduit pipe bender) with 1" fittings. If in the foreseeable future (next 10 years) there's any rust i"ll replace the conduit with much more expensive aluminum or stainless.

Posted: **Wed Apr 03, 2019 4:41 pm**

Have you decided on what size motor you want. A guy on the west coast put a 75HP on his OB17 and was very satisfied with it even going offshore. I would think one of the new efficient 70HP would be ideal. If your not looking for top speed a 60 might be okay. Let me know and I can run some numbers for you

The boat is looking great.

Tom

Posted: **Thu Apr 04, 2019 3:18 pm**

Thanks, TomW1, I'm looking at the suzuki 70 hp, they have a 6 yr warranty i think.

Posted: **Thu Apr 04, 2019 11:10 pm**

Woodenyouknowit wrote: ↑Thu Apr 04, 2019 3:18 pm Thanks, TomW1, I'm looking at the suzuki 70 hp, they have a 6 yr warranty i think.

I like the Suzuki a lot. It has a 2.59 gear ratio that allows it to push a larger prop than other motor's. I really haven't heard anything bad about the Suzuki's. There is group of club's that only use them. Take care and keep up the nice work.

The other 70 to look at is the Yamaha it weighs less and while only a 2.33 gear ratio that is not bad. It does weigh 90lbs less than the Suzuki.

Tom

Posted: **Sat Apr 13, 2019 8:26 pm**

I've got a couple of quotes for new suzuzki 70hp with controls, prop, and "smart gauge" and am still reeling from sticker shock. One was $8800 and another was $10k. Time to start saving some more $$. At least i'm refurbing a very good used trailer after a year or so of searching....

Posted: **Wed Apr 17, 2019 1:29 pm**

Another little project to take care of....

One day the OB17 will sit on top of this..

Posted: **Wed Apr 17, 2019 7:52 pm**

She’ll have a snazzy ride.

Posted: **Tue Jun 11, 2019 3:00 pm**

Any new pics?

Posted: **Sun Jun 16, 2019 9:41 am**

Finally i finished refurbing with new axle, tires, lights, bunkboards and hardware; also built a backyard boat shed to put it in. Next project is to hoist the boat onto the trailer....

Posted: **Sun Jun 16, 2019 10:02 am**

Nice looking trailer! The dirt had to be clearance to fit the boat under the shed?

Posted: **Sun Jun 16, 2019 6:09 pm**

yes, the boat shed height was limited by covenants so I had to dig down to get good roof clearance; thanks, good observation!

Posted: **Sun Jun 16, 2019 8:56 pm**

Oh good. New pictures! Nice color for the trailer. Looks official.

Posted: **Fri Jun 28, 2019 9:45 pm**

Hoisted off of jig cradle, ready for the trailer..

Posted: **Fri Jun 28, 2019 9:55 pm**

Now it's finally on a trailer.

It only took about 700 labor hours over about 20 months to get to this point!

Next comes the center console, seat, engine and controls, wiring, steering, final painting, trailer tag, registration, and who knows what else. I quit being in a hurry about 20 months ago...

Posted: **Tue Aug 20, 2019 3:57 pm**

First time in the full outside sunshine! Next step is waiting on the boat inspector to check it over and give it some registration numbers, then onto the outboard engine installer.

Posted: **Tue Aug 20, 2019 4:50 pm**

Congratulations!!!

Boat is gorgeous!!

Posted: **Wed Aug 21, 2019 7:38 am**

Congrats!!!! Really well done!!! Jeff

Posted: **Sun Aug 25, 2019 7:25 am**

Just wondering what others put in the "make and model" on the hull registration form. I told the inspector officer to put "Bateau" as the make and "Outboard skiff" as the model. He seemed ok with that and gave me the hull decal. I wonder if he knew what "bateau" means in french

Posted: **Fri Aug 30, 2019 7:28 pm**

"you can lead a boat to water but you can't make it launch" (until it gets a motor). Towed it to the local lake boat launch and almost put it in the water

but decided to wait until it has an engine (hopefully next week)...

Posted: **Mon Sep 30, 2019 7:25 pm**

After 3 weeks at the marine dealer installing the engine, controls, wiring, and fuel line, etc., the WOODENYOUKNOWIT is ready for the water!

Posted: **Mon Sep 30, 2019 7:29 pm**

Note that the scuppers are taped shut to keep water from coming in while launching from the trailer, even after raising the deck sole plate 1"

. If I had to change anything, it would be to put in smaller scuppers.

Posted: **Mon Sep 30, 2019 7:31 pm**

Posted: **Mon Sep 30, 2019 7:39 pm**

"It runs like a scalded dog" ...We forgot to bring a gps for speed, but she planes fast and handles tight turns well. And the engine runs quiet with no exhaust fumes!

Posted: **Mon Sep 30, 2019 7:50 pm**

I'll put the removable plexiglass windscreen on later. Now I need to add a depthfinder, etc. etc...and finish the boat registration etc. etc..
So this will probably be my last post on this forum unless another OB17 builder needs advice which I'll be more than happy to help. also put a few more pictures in the gallery.

May the grace and peace from the Lord Jesus Christ be yours...

WOODENYOUKNOWIT

Posted: **Tue Oct 01, 2019 2:39 am**

That's beautiful! Gitting baptized in Mississippi water, way to go!!!

Posted: **Tue Oct 01, 2019 7:31 am**

Congratulations, she looks and performs well!!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Oct 01, 2019 12:15 pm**

Congratulations. Pretty boat, she looks better than my renderings.

Posted: **Tue Oct 01, 2019 1:58 pm**

Nice Job!!! Congratulations!!!!

Posted: **Tue Oct 01, 2019 2:46 pm**

Congratulations! She looks great!

Posted: **Thu Jan 16, 2020 9:24 am**

Jeff,
if you want to you can put this whole shebang (OB17-new cnc kit project and Gallery) on your Build Thread so potential new builders can view it along with other boats before they bite the bullet and jump into boatbuilding. Viewing the Build Threads is what convinced me to jump in feet first

Thanks!

Posted: **Thu Jan 16, 2020 9:55 am**

I will try to get it there today!!! Thank you, Jeff

Posted: **Wed May 13, 2020 8:09 pm**

Update: After several trips to the lake between November 2019 and end of the wuhan virus lockdown in 2020, this boat's been nothing but fun. I did a few modifications of course during the winter months. Those scuppers shown on the plans kept the aft deck wet even with a 1" raised deck, so I plugged them and drilled for a 1-1/2" pvc drain through the transom. Works great now. Also moved the batteries from the motorwell up to below the front seat, so I basically rewired everything the marine dealer had done during engine installation. Added some handmade handrails too. Also get a lot of compliments! Next up is ski and tubing season on the lake and fishing trips to the coast!

Posted: **Wed May 13, 2020 8:50 pm**

That is one sweet looking vessel!

Posted: **Thu May 14, 2020 7:40 am**

Nice OB17!! Good to see her in the water!! Jeff

Posted: **Mon Aug 03, 2020 12:49 pm**

: Tubing.jpg (87.9 KiB) Viewed 865 times

Summer fun tubing and cruising!
This boat can fly across the water, with 4 people goes 32 mph at ~4k rpm, i haven't pushed it faster than that; it's a fun boat!
I've added a few things like bimini, ladder, and seat cushions. The only design change i'd make if I built another would be to raise the sole deck plate another 1" just to help drain it easier during rain, and no side scuppers!

Posted: **Mon Aug 03, 2020 8:55 pm**

Fabulous! Beautiful work.
Rover1

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