Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Posted: **Wed Mar 13, 2019 10:42 pm**

The adventure begins! Been mulling over the metric plans about a year (including Browndog’s FS19 masterpiece). Pulled the trigger and started the jig about a month ago. Picked up 22 sheets of plywood, 13 gallons epoxy and the rest of the supplies in the BOM on Tuesday at BBCentral. Met Jeff and Reid who were the nice guys I expected after numerous email, text and phone conversations. I’m new at stitch and glue but have built 2 glued lapstrakes: 12 foot Ellen sailboat by Jon Brooks and 15 ft Design 54 sailboat by George Whisstock (lengthened a foot and added center console and 40 hp Yamaha). I’m in no rush and will eeek into this slowly (as fast as regular life and epoxy cure temperatures allow). I’m looking forward to gigs and advice from FORUM members.

: Jig going together

GuyP

Posted: **Wed Mar 13, 2019 11:23 pm**

22 sheets of plywood

??

Posted: **Thu Mar 14, 2019 3:47 am**

I thought the same thing so I looked at the plans and they do call for 20 sheets. Getting a little extra plywood seems like a good idea.

Posted: **Thu Mar 14, 2019 7:31 am**

Yes, it was nice meeting Guy!! Long drive on his part but he had great weather!! Jeff

Posted: **Thu Mar 14, 2019 9:46 am**

Welcome to the forum!
I'll be following along

Posted: **Thu Mar 14, 2019 9:54 am**

Glad to see another FS19 (or 18.5) being started. Since you are in Georgia, as am I, let me know if you ever need help and I‘d be happy to help in whatever way I can.

Best wishes,
Jordy

Posted: **Thu Mar 14, 2019 11:06 am**

With a gunwale the nesting plan shows 21. That does not include the console. Thanks for the good wishes and offers of help. I’ll be taking y’all up on them.

Posted: **Mon Mar 18, 2019 5:10 pm**

I’m almost through with jig construction. I’m planning on using the motor well bulkhead as the frame attached to the jig. Questions: 1) do I attach the motor well sides to the bulkhead and attached them also to the transom as part of the jig? 2) How do I determine the height of the motor well bulkhead above the sole? Do I decide how far below the gunwale I want the aft deck to be and go from there?

Thanks

Guy

Posted: **Mon Mar 18, 2019 5:25 pm**

GuyP wrote: ↑Mon Mar 18, 2019 5:10 pm Questions: 1) do I attach the motor well sides to the bulkhead and attached them also to the transom as part of the jig?

No, just temporary screws.

2) How do I determine the height of the motor well bulkhead above the sole? Do I decide how far below the gunwale I want the aft deck to be and go from there?

Use the baseline. You must draw the baseline on all molds, frames and bulkheads and always level based on the BL.

Posted: **Mon Mar 18, 2019 5:54 pm**

Yes sir. Baseline is on all my molds. I don’t see a drawing that shows that height above the baseline. Looking at sheet 314/9 it lists 558 mm (before scaling) on forward edge of motor well side. I can work with that and get close.

How about the attachment question?

Thanks

Posted: **Mon Mar 18, 2019 6:42 pm**

Thanks Jacques. Just noticed the first attachment answer.

Posted: **Mon Mar 25, 2019 9:38 pm**

I will be laminating stringers, transom/clamping boards over the next few days. I expect I need to 1) brush a layer of mixed resin on both sides to be laminated, 2) sandwich both panel layers together and line them up, 3) apply moderate weight/pressure without excessive squeeze out until set. All of course working on a flat surface.

I looked over How-To’s, Tutorials and plans/building notes and did not see specific instructions. I’ve laminated transoms into the past but not long components like stringers.

On the right track?

Thanks

Posted: **Mon Mar 25, 2019 9:50 pm**

You need to use epoxy mixed with wood flour, epoxy glue. Straight epoxy will not give you much strength. I'll see if I can find the right tutorial.

Found it!

http://bateau2.com/howto/epoxy_mixing.php

Posted: **Mon Mar 25, 2019 10:49 pm**

Got it. THANKS.

So wet both surfaces with epoxy, apply a thin layer of epoxy glue, then apply even moderate pressure. Sound right to you?

Posted: **Mon Mar 25, 2019 11:01 pm**

Yes. Just enough pressure so that there is squeeze out all around, but not so much that you chase all the glue out of the joint. Since you are laminating flat on the ground ketchup consistency is ideal. I don't have wood flour, but WEST 206 (cabosil?) worked fine. I'd probably use microfibres next time.

Posted: **Tue Mar 26, 2019 7:25 am**

Thanks BB Sig and One Way Traffic. I have wood flour and will go with ketchup consistency.

Posted: **Thu Mar 28, 2019 10:11 am**

The first pieces of the real boat are cut and laminated!

Posted: **Thu Mar 28, 2019 3:27 pm**

Congrats and good move on the plastic!

Posted: **Tue Apr 02, 2019 1:16 am**

Guy,
Welcome to the forum! Good job in getting on here at the beginning. The guys love pictures and don't hesitate to ask your questions. It is far better to ask it early than to "need" the answer and have to stop progress to wait for the answer!

Posted: **Tue Apr 02, 2019 10:45 pm**

Questions for the pros:

1- do I glue the motor well sides to the stringers as I have them in the exact position I want them? They are temporarily screwed to stringers and line up perfectly with bulkhead F, baseline and stringers.

2- mold E is about 1/4 inch low where notched to stringers compared to other stringer/mold joints. Everything lines up: base line, jig/strongback alignment, mold E and stringer measurements compared to plans (even -5% calculations). I’m thinking that difference is not critical. What do y’all think?

Photo included shows both.

Thanks

Posted: **Wed Apr 03, 2019 7:56 am**

Check your stringers at frame D and E they should be flush with the top of the frames , looks flush at the transom.

Posted: **Wed Apr 03, 2019 10:17 am**

E is the one where stringers are a little high.

Posted: **Wed Apr 03, 2019 10:45 pm**

I know that they’re not flush at E. I was looking for advice on evening them out. At this point I’m planning to deepen the notches in E enough to raise E to even out with stringers. This will lower the base line a little. I’ll then lower the sheer enough to make up for the lowered base line. I believe that should raise mold E enough to be back in line with D and F, keep the sole flat and even and keep the sheer line fair.

That’s the plan for Monday. Comments will be appreciated.

Posted: **Fri Apr 05, 2019 7:36 am**

Yes, glue the motorwell sides to the stringers.

No worries. Not sure if the scaling has an effect on this, but I had very similar issues with the stringers being proud of the rear frames when constructing the FS19. I had to do some fine tuning like you are doing to get it all to work. The important part is to make sure everything makes a fair hull with no dips, lumps or bumps. The station/frame locations fore and aft also can contribute to the stringers being flush or not and can be adjusted if needed.

The building technique is very forgiving of gaps. In fact, you’ll be removing the stringer, motor well sides and all of the frames when you flip the hull and fiberglass the interior. After fiberglassing the interior, the frames and perhaps the stringers and motor well sides will need some adjustments to ensure a gap with the bottom and to accommodate the thickness of the glass and the radius of the fillets at the various seams. The heights of the frames as you pointed out will all be adjusted anyways when you determine shear, sole and deck heights.

Posted: **Fri Apr 05, 2019 9:11 am**

Thanks Jordy. I’ll go ahead and adjust E as I outlined and glue motorwell sides. Your insight is appreciated and will be called upon judiciously.

Posted: **Sun Apr 14, 2019 10:41 pm**

Jig is complete with temporary frames, motorwell bulkhead, sides, stringers and transom assembly. 37 hours into it so far. Ready to start laying out, cutting out and butt joining 20 ft hull sections.

Posted: **Mon Apr 15, 2019 5:49 am**

Looks ready for some big sheets of plywood now!!

Posted: **Mon Apr 15, 2019 10:51 am**

Nice progress GuyP!!!! Jeff

Posted: **Mon Apr 15, 2019 5:13 pm**

Nice. It’s going to look like a boat very soon.

Posted: **Mon Apr 15, 2019 5:40 pm**

When assembling a long panel using fiberglass tape, do you tape both sides of the seam? If just one does the taped side go inside or outside the hull?

Posted: **Mon Apr 15, 2019 7:00 pm**

The plans should specify. If in doubt, do both sides.

Posted: **Mon Apr 15, 2019 7:08 pm**

my gf16 specified fg on both sides of the seam. Had to have my boys help flip so it didn't crack. Others built a frame for the flip so the seam doesn't break open. Don't forget to make sure you have thickened epoxy in the middle of the seam between the splices. I forgot that and when I flip to do the interior I'll have to grind down, fill and then retape.

Edit, unless you have the puzzle joint kit. I think that's something different where you just glue them together with thickened epoxy.

Posted: **Mon Apr 15, 2019 8:02 pm**

Thanks Eric. It’s not a kit. I’ll look back through the plans. In case I don’t find it do you use cloth or tape?

Posted: **Mon Apr 15, 2019 8:10 pm**

Biaxial tape if you have it.

Posted: **Mon Apr 15, 2019 8:11 pm**

GuyP wrote: ↑Mon Apr 15, 2019 8:02 pm Thanks Eric. It’s not a kit. I’ll look back through the plans. In case I don’t find it do you use cloth or tape?

12oz biax tape 6" wide.

http://bateau2.com/howto/long_panel.php

I'm fairly certain that JM doesn't spec out butt blocks as standard anymore. They may still be called out on older designs or as some type of extra reinforcement.

Posted: **Mon Apr 15, 2019 8:49 pm**

Double checked plan how tos, building notes and plans themselves. I did see to use tape not cloth. I’m not considering butt blocks. Just the tape method. Inside and out? Number of layers?

Posted: **Mon Apr 15, 2019 8:59 pm**

One layer each side.

We are talking about making long hull panels from 8' sheets of ply, right?

Posted: **Mon Apr 15, 2019 9:18 pm**

Barry that’s right - 8’ sheets.

Thanks, I’ll do one later tape each side.

Posted: **Mon Apr 15, 2019 9:35 pm**

Make sure you get some help. It's easy to cause damage by yourself.

Posted: **Mon Apr 15, 2019 10:14 pm**

Not to make it more complicated

but some folks here recessed where the glass went with a power planer. I didn't and I don't think it makes a huge difference in fairing if you get the splice right and feather the edges of the tape. It was taking off like 1/64" if I recall correctly and JM said the joint would still be as strong as needed.
Just an option.

Definitely get help on turning the floppy panels over. I tried by myself and then called for the boys to help. Didn't want to fold the panel or crack it after all that work. Once the other slice was on it was still floppy but it wasn't something I was worried about cracking at the splice. Plenty strong.

Posted: **Tue Apr 16, 2019 12:04 am**

Clamp a 8 foot 2x4 across the joint to keep it from cracking when you flip it.

Posted: **Tue Apr 16, 2019 1:59 pm**

Will do as well as get my wife involved in these minor flips.

Thanks to all for the advice.

Posted: **Tue Apr 16, 2019 8:14 pm**

How long should I wait before carefully turning over a long panel fiberglass/epoxy butt joint to glass the flip side of the joint.
75 degree high, 60 low, 70 at mix time. Used medium speed hardener. Found the cure speed chart detailing minutes to gel and recomends 24 hours to sanding.

Posted: **Wed Apr 17, 2019 9:21 am**

GuyP wrote: ↑Tue Apr 16, 2019 8:14 pm How long should I wait before carefully turning over a long panel fiberglass/epoxy butt joint to glass the flip side of the joint.
75 degree high, 60 low, 70 at mix time. Used medium speed hardener. Found the cure speed chart detailing minutes to gel and recomends 24 hours to sanding.

I'd go by how hard the epoxy has set up- if you can barely make a dent in it with your fingernail, or not at all, be careful and proceed.

Posted: **Wed Apr 17, 2019 9:37 am**

pee wee wrote: ↑Wed Apr 17, 2019 9:21 am
GuyP wrote: ↑Tue Apr 16, 2019 8:14 pm How long should I wait before carefully turning over a long panel fiberglass/epoxy butt joint to glass the flip side of the joint.
75 degree high, 60 low, 70 at mix time. Used medium speed hardener. Found the cure speed chart detailing minutes to gel and recomends 24 hours to sanding.
I'd go by how hard the epoxy has set up- if you can barely make a dent in it with your fingernail, or not at all, be careful and proceed.

Yep, same here. Usually, when it's during summer temps, I was able to flip the next day.

Posted: **Wed Apr 17, 2019 1:16 pm**

Thanks fellas. Lyn and I got it flipped and side two is curing. Cutting out its mirror image currently.

Posted: **Fri Apr 26, 2019 3:07 pm**

Next week I’ll be stitching the panels around the molds and transom.

Questions

Should I temporarily screw the panels to the transom until putty has been applied and set?

If the transom is not lining up exactly to the panels should I detach the temporary screws holding it to the motorwell sides as I screw it to the panels?

I think I could adjust the frames holding the stringers and motorwell but believe his way is easier and should result in good alignment as long as port/starboard panels are mirror images.

Thanks in advance.

Posted: **Fri Apr 26, 2019 5:47 pm**

Based on what I did and what others have done on their builds attach it loosely with a screw to the transom and work forward to the bow.
I used one screw in the top of the side panel to the transom and then used some stitches moving to the bow on each side. Fiddled with it for a bit until I was satisfied both sides were fair and everything lined up.

Posted: **Sat Apr 27, 2019 9:33 am**

A break from boat building. My largest, released!

Posted: **Sat Apr 27, 2019 7:58 pm**

Nice cat!

Posted: **Thu May 02, 2019 10:54 pm**

Needing a little confirmation before gluing the seams.

Panels line up on the molds pretty well. Keel seam is stitched tight (except near the bow) with framing nails separating the panels at the stitches. A couple screws hold each bottom panel to the transom with framing nail spacers in place. I have plastic sheeting covering the frames at the panel joints. Chine joints are loosely stitched.

I’m fitting 1/2” pvc pipe in the stitches along the chine between each frame. I believe the pipe will pull up to the seam inside along the chine joint and give the putty applied to the exterior seam some backing to keep putty from oozing through the back side of the joints.

Tomorrow first thing 1) I’ll screw and spacer the side panels to the transom, 2) adjust the chine joint stitches with nail spacers, 3) tighten and spacer the stitches near the bow. 4) check to make sure joint spacing is even, panels are flat against frames and lines look fair.

I’m also considering restitching the keel seam and inserting 1/2 pvc like I did along the chines. Do others think this is worthwhile?

If this all works out measuring consistently even from transom to frames (comparing port to starboard) I’ll start applying putty to the seams.

It’s looking like a big wide boat!

Posted: **Thu May 02, 2019 11:04 pm**

"I’m also considering restitching the keel seam and inserting 1/2 pvc like I did along the chines. Do others think this is worthwhile?"

Only if the panels try and overlap each other. If they don't, then I wouldn't go to the extra hassle.

Posted: **Thu May 02, 2019 11:09 pm**

Thanks Eric

Posted: **Sun May 05, 2019 11:16 pm**

Over the past couple days I finished stitching the bow. A needed to trim about a 1/4 inch wide arc near the center of both bow panels. I used pvc pipe under the chine stitches (cut to fit between the molds). It helped the chines line up nicely and hopefully kept the fillet putty in it’s place on the inside. I could not use nails as spacers with the pipe under the chine joints but did use uniformly cut yellow pine spacers. I contorted myself and taped along the inside keel seam. After putty set overnight I removed stitches and spacers and filled remaining joint voids and stitch holes. Photos hopefully show it as there’s a uniform slight flair on the sides near the transom and on both bottom panels near the transom. Next week I’ll sand the joints round and touch up with a little putty and sanding.

I did have to loosen the temporary motor well/transom screw connections to get the transom/panel joints to square up. All in all the lines look pretty fair to me.

Posted: **Mon May 06, 2019 12:39 am**

As long as it is fair and the planing surface is flat I think you got it. It is normal to do a little fiddling. No two pieces of plywood with bend exactly the same so small differences are to be expected.
From all I see it looks like you have done some good work.

Posted: **Mon May 06, 2019 7:19 am**

Looks good, and as Fuzz said, as long as it's fair that's what matters.

Posted: **Mon May 06, 2019 7:27 am**

It all looks good!

Posted: **Mon May 06, 2019 7:49 am**

Thanks fellas. It may be next week before I get back to it.

Posted: **Sat May 11, 2019 4:00 pm**

I will be installing spray rails and will be covering with glass and fairing with the hull. I believe I should attach the rails and glass over after I have applied the one layer tape and one layer cloth on the outside at the chine as called for in the Building Notes.

Is this correct. Should I use biaxial tape or regular cloth to glass over? Should the rail be attached to the edge of the side panel?

Posted: **Sat May 11, 2019 4:16 pm**

I’m currently rounding the seams at keel, chine, and transom. As I round I’m finding that the puttied seams have numerous flat spots that are not being rounded in the sanding process. Should I build these flat spots up with a third putty application and resend or will glass, cloth and epoxy applied in the next steps do the trick? The joints are sealed so that there are no voids open to the inside.

Thanks

Posted: **Sat May 11, 2019 4:35 pm**

I had that happen too. I went ahead and built up the seam with more putty, let it cure and then was able to round it nicely. I think it let the tape and glass lay better over it.

Posted: **Sat May 11, 2019 7:14 pm**

Those spots do not look too bad or too deep. If you left them as is you would get air pockets when you glass. If you are ready to glass now you could mix up some epoxy puddy/glue and fill the low spots. As soon as it firms up just a little you could go ahead and glass. Or fill and wait to sand either way will work it is up to you.

Posted: **Sat May 11, 2019 9:39 pm**

Thanks Fuzz and Eric. Prior to seeing your replies I cleaned up the panel edges and added some putty to the low spots. I’ll go ahead and finish rounding tomorrow.

I’m hoping to get some input on the previous question about when to install the spray rails. I may glass and epoxy later this week.

Posted: **Sun May 12, 2019 1:05 am**

Do all the glassing called for in the plans first and then come back and add any rails. That way if you ripped up the rails some way you are not exposing the hull, only the add on rails.

Posted: **Sun May 12, 2019 10:03 am**

Fuzz actually brings up a good point. I know do it without thinking and that's building a thicker putty, letting it set for bit to get good and tacky, then glassing over it. I did it with the starboard runner and will with the port. I did it the other way when first starting.
I'll do the same on the interior. Run a thick putty for the inside seams, smooth the out a bit with some neat epoxy by brushing (recall CL doing that), wait for it to set up some, then tape over. Still wet on wet for a chemical bond.

I also know that Fallguy does a hot coat under his glass. Same concept. Trowel on a thin coat of thickened epoxy then glass over and brush on neat epoxy over the top to wet out, then remove any excess. The thickened epoxy underneath helps fill small voids and, I think, helps the glass from sliding around.

Posted: **Sun May 12, 2019 7:48 pm**

Guy it looks like you applied the epoxy between the frames so you are ready to apply the 6" tape as the plans require. Go for it.

Tom

Posted: **Sun May 12, 2019 9:08 pm**

I’ve seen a description of wet on wet epoxy/glass lay up but can’t find it. I understand the concept but have some questions. I know I can/should tape over a fillet as soon as it’s laid. I believe I can relayer tape and glass cloth after the epoxy has set up. Am I correct and how long after the epoxy sets up can I lay another layer and still have wet on wet benefits?

Is there a tutorial?

Thanks in advance.

Posted: **Sun May 12, 2019 10:47 pm**

Wet on wet is just that. You lay more glass over the first before it has set up. This is both the fastest and gives the best bond with the least amount of work. The problem is trying to get a bunch of glass down at one time. Even harder if you are working by yourself. Sometimes you just can't do it for any number of reasons. If the epoxy is still green, not fully cured, you can still get a chemical bond. Most of the time you have about 24 hours for this to happen. After that you need to sand to get a mechanical bond. If your epoxy will blush you need to wash it before sanding.

Posted: **Sun May 12, 2019 10:49 pm**

GuyP wrote: ↑Sun May 12, 2019 9:08 pm I’ve seen a description of wet on wet epoxy/glass lay up but can’t find it. I understand the concept but have some questions. I know I can/should tape over a fillet as soon as it’s laid. I believe I can relayer tape and glass cloth after the epoxy has set up. Am I correct and how long after the epoxy sets up can I lay another layer and still have wet on wet benefits?

Is there a tutorial?

Thanks in advance.

I haven't seen a specific tutorial. Most of what I have learned had been from others on here and what I have gotten from the links to epoxy makers.
I also think the wet on wet times are epoxy specific. I usually try and stay within a max 12 hour window but I know some have said that if it's within 24 hours its still a chemical bond. I also think, not confirmed, that it make also be dependent on the hardner speed too.
I've laid wet fiberglass early in the morning and then again when I've gotten home ~ 9-10 hrs later and have been assured by the knowledgeable folk on here that its still considered wet on wet, i.e., chemical bond.

My "plan" for the interior of my boat, when I'm ready to flip, is to pick a day and get up early, coat everything with neat epoxy and run the fillets. If I have time I'll go ahead and tape the seams. If not, I'll come home over lunch and tape. Then when I am home at night fiberglass with the wide cloth even if I don't get done until very late. That would be wet on wet.

Posted: **Tue May 14, 2019 7:53 pm**

Joints filled. rounded and sanded. Tape and cloth going down next Monday- Wednesday. Anyone know of a good video on wetting out cloth?

Posted: **Wed May 15, 2019 6:49 am**

The boat is looking great

https://youtu.be/x6BIr0Kq0Bs

Posted: **Wed May 15, 2019 7:28 am**

Thanks. I had looked at that one on BBC. When looking again from your link a series from Red Barn Boats popped up that’s just what I was looking for.

Posted: **Wed May 15, 2019 7:45 am**

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9jHUI0CiYbs

This guy, Andy, has some great video's.

Posted: **Mon May 20, 2019 11:18 pm**

Taped outside seams: 2 layers transom and keel, one layer chines. Plan on laying cloth tomorrow. Roller sure works better than 6 inch plastic scraper. Plastic on bow is holding down some glass strands where I had to make a couple tapered cuts.

Posted: **Tue May 21, 2019 2:29 am**

Tape job looks really good. I am betting this is going to be a nice boat

Posted: **Tue May 21, 2019 8:00 am**

Good Job! Way to go.

Posted: **Tue May 21, 2019 9:35 am**

Nice work Guy!!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue May 21, 2019 10:41 am**

Very clean and neat taping job, looks great

Posted: **Tue May 21, 2019 1:41 pm**

Thanks for the encouraging words. Following Jordy’s (Browndog’s) lead. I’m glassing the hull in 1/4 sections. Chines and keel will have an extra layer this way and I’ll use the remnants for interior below sole work. Took me about 90 minutes to wet out this panel which is about all I want to role out in one session.

Posted: **Tue May 21, 2019 1:45 pm**

85 degrees this noontime. Taking this tip I found somewhere on the Forum and have my resin/hardener on a little ice. Using slow hardener and mixing 6 oz at a time it’s rolling out with plenty of working time.

Posted: **Thu May 23, 2019 7:34 pm**

Exterior hull glassing complete!!!!! 99 hours into it. Used 3 and 3/4 gallons of mixed epoxy. My wife Lyn helped lay out the 20 ft sections of cloth and move the butt joined panels to the jig. Scaling the plan back 5% was not too difficult. Exercised a few of those stagnant brain cells.

Posted: **Thu May 23, 2019 8:45 pm**

Looking good and ready for sanding!

Posted: **Thu May 23, 2019 9:16 pm**

Sanding, Yeah!

Posted: **Thu May 23, 2019 10:53 pm**

So I guess a random orbital is the way to go. I’ll need to educate myself on what’s next. I’ll be installing wooden spray rails and strikes and glassing them. So I’d think that’s next. Don’t see a tutorial on filling weave and fairing. I believe that’s what all that wood flour and blended filler that comes in the kits is for. Where should I look to move forward?

Posted: **Thu May 23, 2019 11:39 pm**

GuyP wrote: ↑Thu May 23, 2019 10:53 pm So I guess a random orbital is the way to go. I’ll need to educate myself on what’s next. I’ll be installing wooden spray rails and strikes and glassing them. So I’d think that’s next. Don’t see a tutorial on filling weave and fairing. I believe that’s what all that wood flour and blended filler that comes in the kits is for. Where should I look to move forward?

I don't know the plans for the FS19 (seems like I have a bunch of others). If they are like other plans, attach the spray rails and strakes first, especially if glassing then in place. I know JM doesn't always indicate glassing over the splash rails and strakes but a lot of us do. After that then comes the filling of the weave, but most of us just use fairing compound. You can use neat epoxy for that, just a thin layer if you like. Using the fairing mix stretches the epoxy so you don't end up using so much for filling the weave. The fairing compound BBC sells is glass microballons and fumed silica, no wood flour. Wood flour could be used but it's a much tougher mix and more difficult to sand, and, you're going to be sanding a LOT!
I find their fairing compound easy to use. I'll use it for the first couple of coats and then switch to Quick Fair for the final round as others have done.
As CL often said, the first layer of fairing is thin, meaning not thick. Easy to fill the weave and spread around. The next couple of layers are a bit thicker and meant to build the low spots.

I just started a limited fairing on my GF16. Here you can see the BBC fairing compound I just put on to fill the weave. First coat of many to come and lots of sanding. https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.ph ... &start=140

If you don't have one get a flour sifter. The silica has a tendency to clump up. I bought a cheap one at a local grocery store for $3 and it works great. Put about a 2 cups of the fairing mix in the sifter and sift into another container. Use that to mix into the epoxy. It breaks down most of the silica and the rest I push through the mesh by hand, then mix the material with my hands in the second container to evenly disperse the stuff.

Posted: **Thu May 30, 2019 1:03 pm**

Blue tape is location of stringers. Are strikes ok inside the stringers? I know trailer bunks should line up with stringers so strake should be kept clear. Also was thinking they would be 8 ft long and end 8” forward of transom. Does placement sound OK?

Posted: **Thu May 30, 2019 1:05 pm**

Blue tape is stringer location.

Posted: **Thu May 30, 2019 1:57 pm**

Do you plan on glassing those down or just gluing them and epoxy sealing?

If you plan to glass them down, you might consider rounding the corner over before you glue it down. I did it afterwords, and had trouble getting my router to fit against the edge there. You need a rounded edge for the glass to lay over, then once glassed build the the sharpened edge back up (if you want it sharp).

Posted: **Thu May 30, 2019 2:06 pm**

narfi wrote: ↑Thu May 30, 2019 1:57 pm Do you plan on glassing those down or just gluing them and epoxy sealing?

If you plan to glass them down, you might consider rounding the corner over before you glue it down. I did it afterwords, and had trouble getting my router to fit against the edge there. You need a rounded edge for the glass to lay over, then once glassed build the the sharpened edge back up (if you want it sharp).

Oh Lord YES! do all the shaping prior to gluing them down if you plan on glassing them. Lesson learned from my runners. Would have been much easier to do all the rounding and shaping first, even if I wasn't going to glass them.

Posted: **Thu May 30, 2019 10:06 pm**

I should have mentioned that they’d be glassed. Thanks for tip. I will round before gluing down. Does placement as well as 8’ length look ok?

Posted: **Thu May 30, 2019 10:34 pm**

GuyP wrote: ↑Thu May 30, 2019 10:06 pm I should have mentioned that they’d be glassed. Thanks for tip. I will round before gluing down. Does placement as well as 8’ length look ok?

It does, although I think optimum is 10-12 inches from the transom for water flow.

Posted: **Sat Jun 15, 2019 9:51 am**

Type of cloth best for covering strakes and spray rails?

I glued pre-routed strakes in place using braces to ceiling joists. I then filleted joints and covered in 12 oz tape. I plan on gluing on spray rails using temporary screws.

What’s the best material for covering spray rails? I’ll need to fill a few soft spots on strakes where cloth is not solidly against the wood. On hand I have 6 inch wide 12 oz tape, 12 oz cloth and 4 inch 6 oz tape on hand. I don’t think the 4 inch tape will be wide enough for the rails.

Thanks for your advice in advance.

Posted: **Sat Jun 15, 2019 11:11 am**

PS: I also have 6 oz 50 inch wide biaxial which I could cut strips.

Posted: **Sat Jun 15, 2019 12:36 pm**

I wanted mine to be pretty abrasion resistant. So I overlapped two layers of 12oz tape 6" wide.

Posted: **Sat Jun 15, 2019 6:10 pm**

Temporarily fit the spray rails. Will glue in place and fillet tomorrow.

Posted: **Tue Jun 25, 2019 10:27 am**

Looking good so for

Posted: **Tue Jun 25, 2019 12:32 pm**

Thanks Salty. A general question for all: should I apply neat epoxy to the edges of taped and overlapped seams before beginning fairing with blended filler mix? Some edge fibers were loosened up with the initial sanding. Strakes and splash rails have been glassed. When I finish sanding I think I’m ready to start fairing. I’m finished with right half of bottom panels in this pick.

Posted: **Wed Jun 26, 2019 10:55 am**

GuyP wrote: ↑Tue Jun 25, 2019 12:32 pm A general question for all: should I apply neat epoxy to the edges of taped and overlapped seams before beginning fairing with blended filler mix? Some edge fibers were loosened up with the initial sanding.

It sounds like you could answer this question for yourself! If your first coat of fairing is a thin coat of epoxy/woodflour to fill the weave, then that should suffice to glue down those loose fibers in the same process.

Posted: **Wed Jun 26, 2019 3:18 pm**

Hank

Was thinking that way just wanting confirmation. Hate to think about getting a later of something down and finding out later otherwise. I’ll be using BBC blended filler.

Thanks

Guy

Posted: **Wed Jun 26, 2019 3:20 pm**

GuyP wrote: ↑Wed Jun 26, 2019 3:18 pm Hank

Was thinking that way just wanting confirmation. Hate to think about getting a layer of something down and finding out later otherwise. I’ll be using BBC blended filler.

Thanks

Guy

Posted: **Wed Jun 26, 2019 10:25 pm**

Hi Guy,

I'm going to recommend sanding your loose fibers all the way off rather than trying to stick them down. If it's just the edge, there's no reason for them to be there. If it goes deeper you may need to fill in with a scrap of tape. Sanding shouldn't loosen any fibers.

Chuck

Posted: **Wed Jun 26, 2019 10:35 pm**

Chuck

It is just a couple edges. Where transom/bottom panel meet with 2 layers of cloth on transom and 2 layers tape on joint meet the one layer of cloth on the bottom. I could have staggered my layers better. I’ll do more sanding before I fill.

Thanks

Posted: **Sun Jun 30, 2019 11:25 am**

Hull complete with strakes and spray rails cloth covered and sanded. I’m adding laminated rub rail and will be sharpening edges before fairing. I’m considering building the faces of rub rails more vertical (as compared to water surface) as I’ll be attaching molded black rubber Taco rails to edge of wooden rails closest to water.

How much benefits will I get by sharpening spray rails as opposed to leaving them rounded? They have a slight downward slant as compared to chine angle.

Posted: **Sun Jun 30, 2019 1:03 pm**

Hehe I like your clamps.

Posted: **Sun Jun 30, 2019 7:11 pm**

Saw em first on this forum. Maybe one of your posts???

Posted: **Mon Jul 01, 2019 10:31 am**

Nice progress GuyP!! Jeff

Posted: **Mon Jul 01, 2019 10:36 am**

GuyP wrote: ↑Sun Jun 30, 2019 7:11 pm Saw em first on this forum. Maybe one of your posts???

Maybe but I'm not the original... I saw them somewhere on here before i used them.

Posted: **Thu Jul 11, 2019 7:54 am**

Ready to start fairing!!! Thanks for all the input so far. I’ll be using BBC blended filler to start. One remaining question: how soon after the filler sets up will I be able to start sanding? I believe I saw somewhere that sanding is best before it fully cures.

Posted: **Thu Jul 11, 2019 8:44 am**

GuyP wrote: ↑Thu Jul 11, 2019 7:54 am Ready to start fairing!!! Thanks for all the input so far. I’ll be using BBC blended filler to start. One remaining question: how soon after the filler sets up will I be able to start sanding? I believe I saw somewhere that sanding is best before it fully cures.

What i did when i use the bbc blend was put it on in the am came back the next am and sanded it a lil bit to smooth it out some then started the next coat and sanded the highs then switch to the quikfair to finish the fairing or you could put on one coat wait till it starts to get tacky to the touch and start the next coat of bbc blend without sanding once you start to get a few coats on and dry add a guild coat to start sanding with a long board or your ro sander to see the high a low spots that you may need to add a lil bit of fairing in the low spot only

Posted: **Thu Jul 11, 2019 10:15 am**

First filler coat on right side bottom panel. Used 6” plastic trowel at near 90 degrees. Used three batches of 3 pumps each. Look reasonable to you guys?

Posted: **Thu Jul 11, 2019 10:48 am**

GuyP wrote: ↑Thu Jul 11, 2019 10:15 am First filler coat on right side bottom panel. Used 6” plastic trowel at near 90 degrees. Used three batches of 3 pumps each. Look reasonable to you guys?

Yes, that looks very good. I like how you were careful and applied neatly (or at least cleaned up while wet). If you leave a lump, you have to sand the lump. If you own or can make wider spreaders for your subsequent coats, it'll be good.

Posted: **Thu Jul 11, 2019 8:53 pm**

Yep look right so far, fill the weave and ut will start to take shape ,take a look at my build you will see how it will start to look as u progress

Posted: **Fri Jul 12, 2019 7:57 am**

Nice work GuyP!!! Jeff

Posted: **Fri Jul 12, 2019 1:52 pm**

Looking good Guy!

Posted: **Fri Jul 12, 2019 2:15 pm**

Thanks for y’all’s help and encouragement. Hope to have first coat completed later today or tomorrow.

Posted: **Tue Jul 30, 2019 9:34 pm**

Quik Fair applications for filling obvious low areas at tape joints and weave filling is complete. Next steps 1) finish up this round of sanding, 2) additional fairing of rails and keel, 3) apply graphite powder quite coat and fill low spots, 4) prime with System 3 Yacht Primer.

My Question: if I decide to coat the bottom with epoxy/graphite, can I do that over the primer?

I intend at this point to use EMC Quantum Polyurethane on the entire hull but want to know my options.

Thanks

Posted: **Wed Jul 31, 2019 6:41 am**

Yes you can appy the graphite over the primer but i would use the s3 primer instead of the emc primer and use the emc paint on top of that

Posted: **Wed Jul 31, 2019 7:29 am**

Thanks Salty. I was planning to use S3 primer on either and it’s good to get the confirmation that it works under EMC.

Posted: **Thu Aug 08, 2019 9:31 pm**

Any tips on pouring out of cans of System 3 Yacht Primer? I’ll be using graduated mix cups and mixing maybe a pint at a time. What’s the best way of getting it out of the cans without making a mess?

Posted: **Thu Aug 08, 2019 10:30 pm**

GuyP wrote: ↑Thu Aug 08, 2019 9:31 pm Any tips on pouring out of cans of System 3 Yacht Primer? I’ll be using graduated mix cups and mixing maybe a pint at a time. What’s the best way of getting it out of the cans without making a mess?

Holes around the rim for paint to drain back in:

The first pour out of a full can always makes a mess but not too bad after that.

Posted: **Thu Aug 08, 2019 10:57 pm**

I found these in my Google search for standard gallon and quart cans. Measured my S3 Primer 3.07 liter can and surprised that its same as standard gallon. Must be some room in that can! I may try these spouts for this $100 + per gal paint.

. I’ll do the holes also. Thanks Joe

Posted: **Fri Aug 09, 2019 7:26 am**

Guy,

Those paint can pour spouts look great. Let us know how they work. I always poured straight out of the can into cups and then cleaned up the top and sides of the cans. Was always messy and led to a fair amount of waste.

Your boat is looking good.

Posted: **Fri Aug 09, 2019 9:09 am**

Great tips on the holes in the top of the can. I'm at about the same stage. I think I have one of those pouring helpers. Mine is a bit different and covers only half the can. I'll give it a try if it works I will post it.

Thanks for the tips

Cbuf

Posted: **Fri Aug 09, 2019 4:41 pm**

You are going to love those spray rails. I put them on my FS17 and it is the driest 17' boat that I know of

Posted: **Fri Aug 09, 2019 9:16 pm**

I bought the half top one, on sale 99 cents, probably work neater without it.

Posted: **Fri Aug 09, 2019 9:18 pm**

Holes in the rim did help.

Posted: **Fri Aug 09, 2019 9:32 pm**

One coat of S3 Yacht Primer on. Took a little less than a quart. I like working with that stuff. There were only a few pinholes that showed up. A little sanding and coat #2 goes on in a couple days.

Posted: **Sat Aug 10, 2019 3:45 am**

Looking really good!

Posted: **Sun Aug 11, 2019 4:34 pm**

Mom has been around boats a long time, gave this one a

and said it felt smoooooth. Second coat of primer tomorrow morning. These 95 degree afternoons are right at the max for S3 Yacht Primer.

Posted: **Mon Aug 12, 2019 9:10 am**

Looking good Guy!! Glad your mom enjoys the boats as well!!! Jeff

Posted: **Mon Aug 12, 2019 6:32 pm**

Way to go Guy. Hard to beat a Mother’s thumbs up.

Posted: **Wed Aug 14, 2019 11:47 pm**

Anybody had any experience with S3 sprinkle on non skid? I’m considering using on WR- LPU for sole, cast deck, etc.

Posted: **Tue Sep 10, 2019 11:58 am**

Topcoat going on! One coat EMC Quantum above spray rails. I believe this stuff is going to work out nicely. 8oz topcoat + 4oz activator + 4oz brushing/rolling reducer covered nicely above spray rails including transom. That was even with me applying too heavily at first on one side. Wasn’t a big deal as I needed to scuff sand before second coat after 48 hrs anyway. A little extra sanding attention took care of a few runs. I applied the second coat and stretched it a little further as it took only about a 6oz topcoat mix. I was able to start first coat on the bottom with the leftover of the 8oz I mixed. Here’s some pics after first coat.

Posted: **Tue Sep 10, 2019 12:38 pm**

I used the S3 non-skid on the deck of my OD18. I like it, and it works well without being as rough on bare feet and knees as the kiwi grip on some other boats.

Posted: **Tue Sep 10, 2019 1:13 pm**

Nice paint GuyP!!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Sep 10, 2019 5:29 pm**

I also use emc( citrus green) it's great paint goes on real easy and is very forgiving if you need to touch up and sand an area

Posted: **Tue Sep 10, 2019 6:01 pm**

Salty,

I will have a couple small areas I need to touch up where second coat was too thin. Can I just run the roller over them with a thin coat the next time I’m painting another section?

This stuff is expensive but that quart of topcoat plus activator and reducer will do 2 coats plus on the entire hull exterior. I’ll let the sides/transom cure a few days then tape them off and two coat the bottom panels.

I’m an advocate of this paint so far.

Posted: **Tue Sep 10, 2019 6:07 pm**

Literature says imperfections/bugs can be polished out of of this paint after 48 hrs but does not detail how to polish. I expect using a orbital polisher/buffer and some type of compound. Any advice will be appreciated.

Overall I’m pretty impressed with this paint.

Posted: **Wed Sep 11, 2019 11:18 pm**

GuyP wrote: ↑Tue Sep 10, 2019 6:07 pm Literature says imperfections/bugs can be polished out of of this paint after 48 hrs but does not detail how to polish. I expect using a orbital polisher/buffer and some type of compound. Any advice will be appreciated.

Overall I’m pretty impressed with this paint.

Sorry i just saw your post all i did was sand in between coats with 220 grit (the light sanding removed the little bugs easy )and rolled and tipped with a 2 inch red tree badger brush that i got from west marine $30 for a paint brush seems high but it lays that paint down nice i highly recommended if you can get your hands on one no need to polish just sand between coats and you'll be fine also do thin coats the paint is great has that candy shell look and feel to it once it is dry

Posted: **Wed Oct 02, 2019 12:22 am**

After a once over with polishing compound I’ll be ready to break this puppy away from the molds and flip. Only thing that’s gonna hold me back this are appointments this month with mule deer in Wyoming and whitetails in Georgia. I’m extremely pleased with how the EMC Quantum 99 topcoat turned out. Side photo below looks like my shadow but it’s really my reflection!!!!

Posted: **Wed Oct 02, 2019 5:10 am**

Beautiful!

Posted: **Wed Oct 02, 2019 7:29 am**

Beautiful work Guy!!!! Jeff

Posted: **Wed Oct 02, 2019 11:34 pm**

She looks great!

Posted: **Fri Oct 11, 2019 3:18 pm**

Fall boat building break. A little more polishing and she’ll be ready to flip. May be mid November due to these kind of pursuits. My first Muley. Let me know if distasteful for this forum. A long way from Georgia.

Posted: **Fri Oct 11, 2019 3:30 pm**

Good stuff Guy!!! Congratulations!!!! Jeff

Posted: **Fri Oct 11, 2019 5:58 pm**

Nice! Where was the muley taken?

Posted: **Fri Oct 11, 2019 6:06 pm**

NE of Casper Wyoming. 75 degrees that day. 25 high 3 days later.

Posted: **Sat Oct 12, 2019 10:34 am**

Beautiful photo!!!! Jeff

Posted: **Sat Oct 12, 2019 3:00 pm**

GuyP wrote: ↑Fri Oct 11, 2019 6:06 pm NE of Casper Wyoming. 75 degrees that day. 25 high 3 days later.

Thought that country looked familiar. I grew up in Idaho and my uncle and his family ranch north of Cheyenne.

Posted: **Sat Oct 12, 2019 4:57 pm**

Nice Deer! Those are much bigger animals than the deer we have. Some of the islands around here have transplanted Sitka Blacktails but they are the only deer we have.

Posted: **Sat Oct 12, 2019 10:32 pm**

Thanks fellas.

Eric- surprised there’s not more an bigger deer up there. These are much bigger than whitetails. This one weighed 275. 100 more than my largest.

Piperdown- this was north of I-25 between Casper and Douglas. Beautiful country.

Posted: **Sun Oct 13, 2019 3:16 pm**

Do I use spacers when tabbing the stringers, frames and bulkheads to the interior of the hull? I’m almost positive the answer is yes but did not find an easy answer in the how to’s. I’ll be flipping in next couple of weeks.

Thanks

Posted: **Mon Oct 14, 2019 8:42 am**

You must avoid hard spots. If the stringers make contact all the way along their edge with no high spots, then you don't need spacers but this is rarely the case.

Posted: **Mon Oct 14, 2019 2:00 pm**

Thanks Jacques

Posted: **Tue Oct 15, 2019 9:51 am**

I used bamboo BBQ skewers for spacers. They provided me just enough gap to get the job done.

Posted: **Tue Oct 15, 2019 5:38 pm**

Eric

I’ll try that. I used framing nails for spacing hull panels and transom. Thought they’d probably be too long for interior work.

Posted: **Wed Oct 16, 2019 5:09 pm**

Sides and transom polished and buffed which removed or reduced lightly scattered pin point sized flecks. Hope to get to the bottom tomorrow then pull out the jig and frames.

Posted: **Wed Oct 16, 2019 7:19 pm**

Nice finish!

Posted: **Thu Oct 17, 2019 10:32 pm**

Polishing finished. She’s up on blocks with the jig disassembled. Next step will be assembling some person power together and getting her fitted to the Craig’s list trailer.

Posted: **Thu Oct 17, 2019 10:40 pm**

Photos attached

Posted: **Fri Oct 18, 2019 8:16 am**

Beautiful finish!!!! Jeff

Posted: **Fri Oct 18, 2019 11:11 pm**

That's a top notch finish! Where are you in ga? I might be volunteering for the flip

Posted: **Sat Oct 19, 2019 3:50 pm**

Love to have you come up and to meet you. I’m about a mile from a east entrance to Stone Mountain Park. It’ll be a couple weeks to let me get a couple weeks into the Georgia deer hunting season.

I’ll send you a pm when I’m getting near to see what. Suits you if you are interested.

Posted: **Mon Oct 21, 2019 8:43 am**

After you flip tape and cover the hull. Even do it in a double layer. I left my hull in primer and covered it sloppily and now I will have to resand a couple parts due to epoxy finger prints and 2 epoxy drips that ran down from something..... not even sure how.

Cbuf

Posted: **Mon Oct 21, 2019 6:50 pm**

Great advice Cbuf. Will do.

Posted: **Wed Oct 23, 2019 9:15 pm**

This will be my first flip of a stitch and glue and certainly my largest. With no structural supports yet besides the laminated rub rails, the hull is very “flexible” around the middle of the sheer. I’ve temporarily attached a couple of 2 x 4 cross braces to the inside of the rub rails side to side at sheer elevation with the thought they will reduce the flexibility. Is this a good or bad idea?

The hull is free of the jig and set up on blocks. It is in a small one car garage so will need to be flipped outside. The hull will be lifted so trailer can be backed under. It will be secured upside down and rolled outside.

i plan to: remove it from the trailer with plenty of human power, set it down on mattresses/padding on soft ground then roll it over onto padding. Then finally lift it onto the trailer providing adequate padding and support.

Does this sound reasonable? Any suggestions?

Thanks

Posted: **Thu Oct 24, 2019 5:17 am**

I think it's a good idea. I spot welded my frames with epoxy glue to do the same thing. I think you have a plan.

Posted: **Thu Oct 24, 2019 6:06 am**

How are you supporting the hull while you glass the inside?

Your trailer bunks look large enough but since the FS19 has a warped deadrise they may not make even contact. It would be a shame to distort the hull after all that work getting fair.

I know it's more work but I would look into making a cradle or providing some more even support at least until you have the inside glass and stringers in.

Posted: **Thu Oct 24, 2019 8:46 am**

Guy,

We had thirteen people to flip the FS19 that I built. We rolled the jig out onto the driveway. The trailer was already on the driveway. Ten of us lifted up the boat off of the jig, three others rolled it out from under the boat. We flipped the boat in the air and put it down on the trailer. Then we rolled the trailer back into the garage. All told it took longer to describe to all the people what we were going to do than what we actually did.

I had blankets and pillows set up on the ground to put the boat down on, but they weren’t necessary at all.

There was pizza and beer for all the helpers. It took longer to eat and drink than to flip the boat.

The only problem we had was that I got a crack in the rubrail near the bow from an overly enthusiastic helper using too much force to lift the boat off of the jig. It was easy to fix though.

I was much more worried than I need to be.

The trailer bunks weren’t perfectly set up for the boat but they were adjustable. Later in the build I lifted the boat off the trailer with an overhead hoist and readjusted the bunks.

Good luck with your flip. Congratulations on getting to this point.

Posted: **Thu Oct 24, 2019 11:32 am**

I flipped my FS17 with 3 people and I hadn't installed any rub rail yet. I had fully glassed the outside all the way up. It bent the side a lot when we put the full weight on the edge mid flip, but it's just flexible not weak. Popped right back to shape as soon as the weight was off. Maybe not the safest way to do it but the hull is strong and light at that point. Don't see any harm in adding some bracing, just not sure its necessary.

I would echo concerns about putting it on a trailer instead of a cradle before the inside glass, stingers, and frames are in. The hull is pretty flexible as I said, and I think it would be easy for the trailer bunks to distort the shape. Then your stringers or frames might not fit well, or you could make the shape permanent. I'd suggest a cradle shaped to the hull until all structure below the sole is done, then you could move it to the trailer.

Posted: **Thu Oct 24, 2019 12:42 pm**

Also make sure you support the hull in the cradle as far toward the bow as possible. I thought I had but the shims loosened as I was installing the stringers. Trust me, you really don't want those issues. See my build Eric's C21 in Power boats.

Posted: **Fri Oct 25, 2019 12:00 am**

I’d pretty well thought I’d need to beef up the support to make sure frames and stringers are lined up and hull doesn’t flex under my weight while working inside. After disassembling the jig, I temporarily mounted the aft three frames separated at plan dimensions on the bunks and adjusted the bunk bend so baseline was straight. After getting the hull right side up on the trailer, I’ll roll it back inside, put trailer on blocks to eliminate any leaf spring bounce. I’ll then add whatever supports needed to get frames and stringers lining up correctly. If I’m not satisfied it’s back to intended shape I’ll suspend the hull with straps to the rafters, remove the trailer and go with the cradle set up.

I’m sure I’m overthinking it. I think there will be plenty of adjustments made to get the supports where they need to be. Hopefully tomorrow I’ll have it securely mounted upside down on trailer so I can get it outside for the flip in the near future.

Thanks for the suggestions and comments.

Posted: **Fri Oct 25, 2019 9:29 am**

I flipped my FS17 over the transom axis. Almost no stress that way

Posted: **Fri Oct 25, 2019 9:40 pm**

Had my son and 2 friends stop by to help me get it upside down on trailer. It went so well we gat some assistance of three athletic ladies and we went ahead and flipped. It went very nicely. I’ll attempt to post some videos one at a time. The series will include:
1- loading it upside down on trailer
2- unloading it in the yard
3- flipping
4- loading it right side up on the trailer

It’s gonna take a little work but plan to shape a cradle under it while on the trailer. Here goes lading the first video. Oops did not succeed. I’ll post some stills.

Any video posting suggestions?

Posted: **Fri Oct 25, 2019 9:42 pm**

Pulled it outside for some room.

Posted: **Fri Oct 25, 2019 9:45 pm**

Set it on the soft ground.

Posted: **Fri Oct 25, 2019 9:47 pm**

Pre flip

Posted: **Fri Oct 25, 2019 9:53 pm**

Flipping

Posted: **Fri Oct 25, 2019 9:56 pm**

Flipping

Posted: **Fri Oct 25, 2019 9:58 pm**

The crew, few but driven!

Posted: **Sat Oct 26, 2019 2:16 am**

Well done! Congratulations with the flip!
One step closer.....

Daniel

Posted: **Sat Oct 26, 2019 3:19 am**

Congratulations on the flip. Seems like the more you worry over it the less drama that happens. I do note you had your own medical personal on site if needed

Posted: **Sun Oct 27, 2019 7:36 am**

You passed a big milestone! Way to go.

Posted: **Sun Oct 27, 2019 7:50 pm**

Thanks fellas. Next up is providing a little more stabilization on the trailer.

Posted: **Sun Oct 27, 2019 10:52 pm**

Photo is looking down at interior of port/transom hull corner. I know that long void in the joint needs filling. Is it ok to fill with a long wooden wedge epoxied in place and then finish wit a fillet? It would save a lot of putty that way.

Posted: **Mon Oct 28, 2019 6:52 am**

Whenever there were gaps, no matter how large, on the FS19 that I built they were filled with EZ Fillet. It is my opinion that the fillet putty would do a better job of filling the gaps and be more able to conform to the space to be filled, while also providing a smooth sandable transition. If you apply fiberglass tape to the gap while the putty is still wet, the transition pretty much disappears.

Posted: **Mon Oct 28, 2019 11:34 am**

I agree just filling it with putty which you need to put there anyway for the fillet would be easiest and probably best. If you are really trying to stretch your epoxy and want to do the piece of wood I would do it at the same time as the fillet. Put a little putty in the gap, push in your filler wood, then apply more putty and form your fillet. If you just glue in a piece of wood and apply putty on top I think you're pretty likely to have voids. The amount of epoxy in that void isn't going to be much compared to the fillet itself unless that picture is deceiving, don't think it's worth the effort.

Posted: **Mon Oct 28, 2019 12:37 pm**

Thanks fellas. Just knowing I’ll be running low on epox eventually and I’m basically cheep (ask Lyn) unless it about out west hunt trips or boats. I’ll probably use the epox/wood flour mix. I’ve got plenty of flour for sure.

Posted: **Mon Oct 28, 2019 7:42 pm**

With Reid’s piping bag trick, it will be satisfying dispersement of goo.

Posted: **Mon Oct 28, 2019 11:47 pm**

Can you direct me to where I can find that? I remember seeing it somewhere but can’t place it.

Posted: **Tue Oct 29, 2019 8:16 am**

GuyP, Please find Reid's recommendation at the below link:

Link: https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.ph ... &start=130

Posted: **Tue Oct 29, 2019 9:50 pm**

Thanks Jeff. I’ll be using some bags tomorrow.

Posted: **Thu Oct 31, 2019 7:33 pm**

Got one interior chine joint filleted and taped yesterday. Temperature will be 40 degrees colder tomorrow morning than this morning so I held off on epoxy work today. Boat’s sitting with transom and base line level on the trailer which is without wheels, up on blocks and reinforced with a number of temporary cradles.

Posted: **Thu Oct 31, 2019 8:09 pm**

Looks good to me!

Posted: **Fri Nov 01, 2019 1:56 am**

Nice pictures, very neat work!

Daniel

Posted: **Fri Nov 01, 2019 8:57 am**

Good stuff Guy!!! Jeff

Posted: **Mon Nov 04, 2019 5:53 pm**

It really feels big now that I’m working on the upright hull. Getting down to the high 30’s so switched to fast hardener and applying some heat. I like doing this glass work where it will be beneath the sole with no sanding/finishing required.

Posted: **Mon Nov 04, 2019 7:48 pm**

Nice! Yes it does feel big when you have to climb in and out. Good clean work. After fairing, sanding and painting it is a relief to have a break from it for a little while.

Posted: **Wed Nov 06, 2019 10:35 pm**

I think I’d like the look better if the top of the transom was built up to match the thickness with the clamping boards. I’d laminate these pieces in place before I lay up two layers of glass. Does anyone know any reason I should NOT do this besides a little extra weight?

Posted: **Thu Nov 07, 2019 6:02 am**

I agree with you GuyP, I'd add them.

That weight add is nothing.

Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

FS19 (-5%) in GA

FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA

Re: FS19 (-5%) in GA