FS18 on the double!
Re: FS18 on the double!
Stared my first stitch and glue 2 months ago. We can learn together. Welcome. These folks ARE very helpful.
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Re: FS18 on the double!
Cheers GuyP! That hull of yours looks like its coming along very nicely!!
Yup there certainly is a wealth of information on this forum - goes beautifully with Bateau's excellent plans Truly the internet at its finest!
Race you to getting the decks glued down!
Yup there certainly is a wealth of information on this forum - goes beautifully with Bateau's excellent plans Truly the internet at its finest!
Race you to getting the decks glued down!
Re: FS18 on the double!
No racing on this end. I’ll concede defeat right now.
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Re: FS18 on the double!
Fair enough Guy (wait that's another possible boat name: Fair Enough?), I'm trying to give myself a time budget as I dont think my marriage will last if this boat takes too long..!! Maybe I'll name the boat after her in some way to buy me some leeway
So I've now done pretty much all of the butchering and am about to start splicing the long pieces together. I did a few experiments with an electric planer (not something i've used much) to try and get a decent recess to sink the 6" biaxial tape into - one with a score at 3", one scored at 3.25" and one with no score at all...
Looks like scoring is not necessary, with the grain at least, though my recess was hardly the level, even-sided effort I was hoping for... My planer is the sort of product I imagine you'd see in the 99c store in the U.S. but I still thought it would turn out a bit more even that this, given I was putting weight in what felt like the right places etc. I plan on trying to remove the first layer of the marine ply, but it looks like it might be a bit wobbly.... Ah well, sounds like fairing is something of a rite-of-passage anyway so I may as well embrace it
Not sure if these photos appear in the post as hoped or even work as links (as they appear on my screen) but here goes:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
So I've now done pretty much all of the butchering and am about to start splicing the long pieces together. I did a few experiments with an electric planer (not something i've used much) to try and get a decent recess to sink the 6" biaxial tape into - one with a score at 3", one scored at 3.25" and one with no score at all...
Looks like scoring is not necessary, with the grain at least, though my recess was hardly the level, even-sided effort I was hoping for... My planer is the sort of product I imagine you'd see in the 99c store in the U.S. but I still thought it would turn out a bit more even that this, given I was putting weight in what felt like the right places etc. I plan on trying to remove the first layer of the marine ply, but it looks like it might be a bit wobbly.... Ah well, sounds like fairing is something of a rite-of-passage anyway so I may as well embrace it
Not sure if these photos appear in the post as hoped or even work as links (as they appear on my screen) but here goes:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
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Re: FS18 on the double!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
SO things are coming along fairly nicely - just tacked in all the hull pieces and transom after zipping it all up with cable ties. Couldn't see how to do the transom so I have cable-tied the side and bottom pieces to the inside edge of the transom... hoping this is an acceptable method..? I figured that so long as it holds it there until I add some glass then everything should be fine.
Planning on letting it cure for a good couple of days before rasping down the 1/2" radius - the bow section in particular was under quite a bit of force (and a handful of snapped cable ties! ) so i dont want to risk it pulling cheesy putty to pieces.
I was also getting worried about accidentally glassing the fore and aft decks to the sid pieces, so I made the jig so that you could slide out the deck pieces without the deck actually moving. Frame E just got screwed to the strong back on two legs (as with C and D), but things got pretty funky with frames A and B, in that I braced them both back to the legs of frame C, using some scrap strips of ply for triangulation to stop it wobbling sideways. As I pulled the bow deck piece out later on, I put little pieces of 9mm in the gaps it left behind every couple of feet. All seems to have worked pretty well and you can also access the underside to put tape, pieces of pvc pipe in etc
I've found some cheap peel ply on the internet that im going to use for the seams and then the cloth - hoping that the money and time saved on fairing will more than offset the £2.86/sqm the peel ply cost! Should also make for a lighter boat
Speaking of lightness - I noticed that lots of people put a layer of cloth on the inside of the hull before the stringers go down, even though the plans say this is not necessary - I was going to stick with the plans to save weight, time, cloth, my back etc but also because the foam and deck should protect everything down there? Do people go the extra mile with inside cloth for extra waterproofing purposes?
Really enjoying the build, everything is at such a nice working height for once!!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
SO things are coming along fairly nicely - just tacked in all the hull pieces and transom after zipping it all up with cable ties. Couldn't see how to do the transom so I have cable-tied the side and bottom pieces to the inside edge of the transom... hoping this is an acceptable method..? I figured that so long as it holds it there until I add some glass then everything should be fine.
Planning on letting it cure for a good couple of days before rasping down the 1/2" radius - the bow section in particular was under quite a bit of force (and a handful of snapped cable ties! ) so i dont want to risk it pulling cheesy putty to pieces.
I was also getting worried about accidentally glassing the fore and aft decks to the sid pieces, so I made the jig so that you could slide out the deck pieces without the deck actually moving. Frame E just got screwed to the strong back on two legs (as with C and D), but things got pretty funky with frames A and B, in that I braced them both back to the legs of frame C, using some scrap strips of ply for triangulation to stop it wobbling sideways. As I pulled the bow deck piece out later on, I put little pieces of 9mm in the gaps it left behind every couple of feet. All seems to have worked pretty well and you can also access the underside to put tape, pieces of pvc pipe in etc
I've found some cheap peel ply on the internet that im going to use for the seams and then the cloth - hoping that the money and time saved on fairing will more than offset the £2.86/sqm the peel ply cost! Should also make for a lighter boat
Speaking of lightness - I noticed that lots of people put a layer of cloth on the inside of the hull before the stringers go down, even though the plans say this is not necessary - I was going to stick with the plans to save weight, time, cloth, my back etc but also because the foam and deck should protect everything down there? Do people go the extra mile with inside cloth for extra waterproofing purposes?
Really enjoying the build, everything is at such a nice working height for once!!
Re: FS18 on the double!
You need to read the lamination schedule again. Both the outside and inside of the hull get 1 layer of 12oz biaxial, overlapping by 6". What you end up with is 2 layers of the 6" tape inside and outside of the keel, transom, and bow, and 1 layer of 6" tape inside and outside on the chines. Lay the 6" tapes first, then the 50" wide cloth. After the inside of the hull is glassed, than you lay the stringers in and glass those with 1 layer of the 6" tape. What you end up with total inside and outside is 6 layers of 12oz on the keel, transom, and bow, and 4 layers on the chines. Looking good so far, build on. Mike
- OrangeQuest
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Re: FS18 on the double!
Even my little FS14 boat is done the way SeaSlug stated. Lighter tape but still multi layers inside and out.
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
A. A. Milne
A. A. Milne
Re: FS18 on the double!
It's hard to tell from the photos, but your transom should fit between the hull layers with the rear face of the transom lined up with the rear of the hull panels, not sitting behind. Most guys put temporary screws through the hull panels into the transom. Looking like a boat now!
Hank
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Re: FS18 on the double!
Testing the new photo technique...
- cape man
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Re: FS18 on the double!
works!
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman
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