Hi Everybody,
I am licking my lips having just ordered all the epoxy, glass, okoume etc for an FS18.
I've been hoovering up everybody's tips and tricks from all the other build threads. I am almost a complete novice when it comes to boat building, though I did spend a few years as a carpenter. Hopefully this thread will be useful to other novices!
Thanks everyone for taking the time to post all your useful info over the years - I would not be starting this project without it. I'll put a list of what I think I've learnt soon to save other novices some time!
More to follow later - this is just a tester post, now that Jeff has helped me figure out how to start a new thread...
Jack
FS18 on the double!
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Re: FS18 on the double!
Jack, Good to see you on the Builders Forum, Welcome!!! Jeff
Re: FS18 on the double!
Welcome to the forum!
Looking forward to your build Lots and lots of pictures please
Looking forward to your build Lots and lots of pictures please
Eric (aka, piperdown)
"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain
"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain
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- Joined: Wed Apr 17, 2019 11:26 am
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Re: FS18 on the double!
Thanks Jeff!! Really looking forward to getting started. I'll post a picture of my makeshift boatyard when I can figure out how to upload pictures into the Bateau gallery (FAQ link said: 404 Not Found). Its a little Robinson Crusoe but it should do the job...
The following tips are things that I have picked up from trawling the forum. There are obviously many more tips out there but these are the ones that spring to mind, that I never would have thought of otherwise:
- Use a surform/rasp where possible instead of sanding (easier, less dust)
- Use a painter's edge for spreading epoxy over large areas, scraping
- Scrape off excess epoxy for a stronger laminate and much easier fairing
- Work "wet-on-wet" (steady... ) where possible for a stronger laminate and skipping sanding stages - much quicker but requires longer sessions
- Sellotape between onto the frame edges to prevent the hull epoxy grabbing onto them
- Get under the hull after stitching and put masking tape under the seams to stop the rock-hard bogies that need sanding etc
- Make an epoxy dam to sharpen up the edge https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.ph ... 4&start=80
- Apply graphite while its nice and warm to mix the graphite in easier
- Get the stern-ward ( ) part of the hull truly flat using shims after stitching to save time fairing later on https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?t=13826
- Cables etc through the deck: use the 'drill & fill' method of drilling 1.5x the diameter then filling with a firm mix then re-drilling your hole
Couple of things I still can't figure out, which might seem pretty basic to some I expect..!
- If I want to drop the sheer at the transom 3", tapering to zero at the bow, a la Bayport Bob and Insufficient Funds, can I do this at the ply butchering stage or is it better to wait until just before the rub rail goes on?
- Really dumb question alert When splicing together the long pieces... do you put a fibreglass splice on, let it cure, flip it, 2nd splice, cure again...?
- Can you use any plastic film for the splicing, eg carrier bag, cling film...? Or should it be heavy duty?
Will hopefully have some pics soon!
The following tips are things that I have picked up from trawling the forum. There are obviously many more tips out there but these are the ones that spring to mind, that I never would have thought of otherwise:
- Use a surform/rasp where possible instead of sanding (easier, less dust)
- Use a painter's edge for spreading epoxy over large areas, scraping
- Scrape off excess epoxy for a stronger laminate and much easier fairing
- Work "wet-on-wet" (steady... ) where possible for a stronger laminate and skipping sanding stages - much quicker but requires longer sessions
- Sellotape between onto the frame edges to prevent the hull epoxy grabbing onto them
- Get under the hull after stitching and put masking tape under the seams to stop the rock-hard bogies that need sanding etc
- Make an epoxy dam to sharpen up the edge https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.ph ... 4&start=80
- Apply graphite while its nice and warm to mix the graphite in easier
- Get the stern-ward ( ) part of the hull truly flat using shims after stitching to save time fairing later on https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?t=13826
- Cables etc through the deck: use the 'drill & fill' method of drilling 1.5x the diameter then filling with a firm mix then re-drilling your hole
Couple of things I still can't figure out, which might seem pretty basic to some I expect..!
- If I want to drop the sheer at the transom 3", tapering to zero at the bow, a la Bayport Bob and Insufficient Funds, can I do this at the ply butchering stage or is it better to wait until just before the rub rail goes on?
- Really dumb question alert When splicing together the long pieces... do you put a fibreglass splice on, let it cure, flip it, 2nd splice, cure again...?
- Can you use any plastic film for the splicing, eg carrier bag, cling film...? Or should it be heavy duty?
Will hopefully have some pics soon!
Re: FS18 on the double!
Can't help with the sheer question.Jacky Chan wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2019 11:23 am
Couple of things I still can't figure out, which might seem pretty basic to some I expect..!
- If I want to drop the sheer at the transom 3", tapering to zero at the bow, a la Bayport Bob and Insufficient Funds, can I do this at the ply butchering stage or is it better to wait until just before the rub rail goes on?
- Really dumb question alert When splicing together the long pieces... do you put a fibreglass splice on, let it cure, flip it, 2nd splice, cure again...?
- Can you use any plastic film for the splicing, eg carrier bag, cling film...? Or should it be heavy duty?
Will hopefully have some pics soon!
When splicing together long pieces place the plastic under the seam (I used heavy poly ply from HD, but I've also used contractor trash bags), leave a tiny bit of a gap between the 2 panels, like 1/16", and fill that with thickened epoxy, then wet out the ply and apply the tape. Wet out fully, place plastic over it and some weight to hold it down but make sure the panels are flat and lined up (sometimes they like to slide a bit). Let cure until hard.
When flipping, if you don't have extra hands to help, use 2x4s to brace either side of the seam and then flip. Did you get the kit with the puzzle joints or just ordered the plywood from BBC?
Eric (aka, piperdown)
"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain
"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain
Re: FS18 on the double!
For lowering the sheer: are you going to lower the outboard clamp too? You can't, the transom height at the clamp depends on your outboard shaft length.
If you lower the sheer, you must change the shape of the transom.
Plus, all your frames are going to stick out, you must adjust them.
You say that you area 1st time builder. It would be safe to stick to the plans unless you copy the successful modifications made by another builder.
If you change the sheer:
- build the boat on the jig with the transom as designed.
- when the sides are planked (hull skin complete). take a long batten and try to draw what you have in mind.
- adjust the transom but keep the clamp at the same height
- cut what sticks out
- do the same to the other side.
- look at it, realize it is ugly and does not work, throw the whole thing away and start over.
OK, the last point is a tease: don't take chances with a 1st build but if you really want to try, do it with a long batten.
If you lower the sheer, you must change the shape of the transom.
Plus, all your frames are going to stick out, you must adjust them.
You say that you area 1st time builder. It would be safe to stick to the plans unless you copy the successful modifications made by another builder.
If you change the sheer:
- build the boat on the jig with the transom as designed.
- when the sides are planked (hull skin complete). take a long batten and try to draw what you have in mind.
- adjust the transom but keep the clamp at the same height
- cut what sticks out
- do the same to the other side.
- look at it, realize it is ugly and does not work, throw the whole thing away and start over.
OK, the last point is a tease: don't take chances with a 1st build but if you really want to try, do it with a long batten.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
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Re: FS18 on the double!
Hi Piperdown! Thanks for the response, great idea re the 2x4 bracing and I will be sure to add a little gap of thickened epoxy. (And let it cure hard!) Is 6"/150mm biaxial tape wide enough for this? Some of the pics look as though the have something wider on there.
I haven't got the puzzle joints kit unfortunately... I'm over the pond in the UK and I dread to think what the postage costs would be for that one!
I've found a local okoume supplier that seems pretty good, with all the Lloyds hallmarks, b1088 etc
About to try a photo upload using Flickr as the intermediary!
Many thanks
I haven't got the puzzle joints kit unfortunately... I'm over the pond in the UK and I dread to think what the postage costs would be for that one!
I've found a local okoume supplier that seems pretty good, with all the Lloyds hallmarks, b1088 etc
About to try a photo upload using Flickr as the intermediary!
Many thanks
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- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Wed Apr 17, 2019 11:26 am
- Location: Castle Combe, UK
Re: FS18 on the double!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/479 ... c433_b.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/471 ... 09e7_b.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/479 ... c2ca_b.jpg
Just finished this little pirate ship for my 2yo son, god rid of a lot of rookie mistakes on that one before moving onto the FS18!!
As you can see, the boat yard is rather makeshift, but those slabs are as horizontal as a millpond... for now at least
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/471 ... 09e7_b.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/479 ... c2ca_b.jpg
Just finished this little pirate ship for my 2yo son, god rid of a lot of rookie mistakes on that one before moving onto the FS18!!
As you can see, the boat yard is rather makeshift, but those slabs are as horizontal as a millpond... for now at least
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- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Wed Apr 17, 2019 11:26 am
- Location: Castle Combe, UK
Re: FS18 on the double!
Hi Jacques, thanks for the advice, all of which is noted 100%. (I must say the response time here is 2nd to none!)
Yes I understand that the transom clamp height must remain the same, and you also dont want to weaken it by removing too much of the corners. I also noticed on two builders' threads that lowered their sheers that they kept the full height of the knees, so that they protruded above the deck and retained their strength. This was also very much my intention as I do not want to be weakening the boat in any way.
...Or offend the designer! I think the popularity of the FS18 speaks for itself. I was drawn to this low-sheer adjustment for two reasons. 1) it makes a devastatingly sexy boat even sexier, and 2) this will a boat that my two small children will be growing up with, and they'll be hopping in and out of it in shallow water as soon as they can swim (i.e. soon after they can walk!) and this will be that much easier with the low-sheer.
Thanks for keeping me on the straight and narrow!
Yes I understand that the transom clamp height must remain the same, and you also dont want to weaken it by removing too much of the corners. I also noticed on two builders' threads that lowered their sheers that they kept the full height of the knees, so that they protruded above the deck and retained their strength. This was also very much my intention as I do not want to be weakening the boat in any way.
...Or offend the designer! I think the popularity of the FS18 speaks for itself. I was drawn to this low-sheer adjustment for two reasons. 1) it makes a devastatingly sexy boat even sexier, and 2) this will a boat that my two small children will be growing up with, and they'll be hopping in and out of it in shallow water as soon as they can swim (i.e. soon after they can walk!) and this will be that much easier with the low-sheer.
Thanks for keeping me on the straight and narrow!
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- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Wed Apr 17, 2019 11:26 am
- Location: Castle Combe, UK
Re: FS18 on the double!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
Not sure if anyone can see these pics - I'm hoping they appear in the post and don't require you to click through
Strongback now up and running and the okoume ply due to arrive tomorrow. My floor isn't the most level, in fact its probably about 15 degs off the horizontal Its a lot hillier round here than much of Texas and Florida seem to be! Some carpet off cuts it should feel relatively smooth at least... I'm going to rake it a little smoother before they go down do try and avoid a broken ankle... At least it doesn't stink of rat's urinal anymore - there was a chicken run on this spot until 2 weeks ago and I am pleased to say it has now had some disinfectant splashed onto it!
Also pleased that the strong back came out nice and level. I've run a centre line down the middle as there is the slightest of bows to the longitudinal 6x2s which might increase over time
Looking forward to a summer of cricket on the radio being drowned out by long periods of sanding haha
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/158018895 ... ed-public/
Not sure if anyone can see these pics - I'm hoping they appear in the post and don't require you to click through
Strongback now up and running and the okoume ply due to arrive tomorrow. My floor isn't the most level, in fact its probably about 15 degs off the horizontal Its a lot hillier round here than much of Texas and Florida seem to be! Some carpet off cuts it should feel relatively smooth at least... I'm going to rake it a little smoother before they go down do try and avoid a broken ankle... At least it doesn't stink of rat's urinal anymore - there was a chicken run on this spot until 2 weeks ago and I am pleased to say it has now had some disinfectant splashed onto it!
Also pleased that the strong back came out nice and level. I've run a centre line down the middle as there is the slightest of bows to the longitudinal 6x2s which might increase over time
Looking forward to a summer of cricket on the radio being drowned out by long periods of sanding haha
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