LM18 Madison Wi Building questions

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fallguy1000
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Re: LM18 Madison Wi Building questions

Post by fallguy1000 »

GuyP wrote: Sat Jul 27, 2019 11:06 pm I thought of using those yesterday. Did not think about reusing the cups. Amazon delivered 500 for total of $6.50. A bit of overkill. Wife said I could use em in 30 years when she needs her pills 💊 💊 🥴
If you had any idea the waste I make in a week; you'd understand.
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Cbuf
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Re: LM18 Madison Wi Building questions

Post by Cbuf »

I have about 30 little spots to fill in and clean up for my last pass. I'm going to try mixing with little medicine cups.

Question.
Can I prime and then put on the sieg and rubrail? Or should i put those on first?

Thanks
Cbuf
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BB Sig
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Re: LM18 Madison Wi Building questions

Post by BB Sig »

Keep eating that elephant 30 small bites at a time! :lol:

Glue things down before primer.

Browndog
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Re: LM18 Madison Wi Building questions

Post by Browndog »

Generally better to put things like the skeg on before priming or painting if you are going to be using epoxy and/or fiberglass cloth/tape glass to adhere them. If you are using a wooden rubrail then same thing. If using a rubber or Vinyl rubrail, then most of those go on after priming and painting.

Cbuf
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Re: LM18 Madison Wi Building questions

Post by Cbuf »

Nobody mentioned what a pain in the butt putting on the rub rail is. Any tips or tricks? Is it better to put the glue on the boat or the rail? I stuck my level on the edge to keep the rail consistent to the edge of the boat. I needed a ton of clamps due to the compounding curves. I also per measured and cut the 6 overlapping pieces at the nose.

Thanks

Cbuf
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Cbuf
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Re: LM18 Madison Wi Building questions

Post by Cbuf »

Also with medium speed harder at 79 degrees how soon can I take off the clamps?

Cbuf.
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fallguy1000
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Re: LM18 Madison Wi Building questions

Post by fallguy1000 »

Cbuf wrote: Sat Aug 03, 2019 10:22 pm Also with medium speed harder at 79 degrees how soon can I take off the clamps?

Cbuf.
I take off simple clamps at 3 hours with fast, but it is generally setup sooner.

In your case with the rubrail; you really ought to go overnite due to the unnatural stresses introduced to the board. And this is why slow hardener is fine-same amount of time.

Overnite for me is like 4pm to 9am. I realize that is 17 hours.. But for slow hardener I want 12 hours and for fast 3, so medium is like 7.5 or ...overnite.
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fallguy1000
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Re: LM18 Madison Wi Building questions

Post by fallguy1000 »

Cbuf wrote: Sat Aug 03, 2019 10:17 pm Nobody mentioned what a pain in the butt putting on the rub rail is. Any tips or tricks? Is it better to put the glue on the boat or the rail? I stuck my level on the edge to keep the rail consistent to the edge of the boat. I needed a ton of clamps due to the compounding curves. I also per measured and cut the 6 overlapping pieces at the nose.

Thanks

Cbuf
My rubrails will be vinyl on the Skoota, so not much help, but I have done some pita glue ups. What I generally do with pita stuff is use slow hardeners for one. Then a second person is ideal. Then for the rubrail, I would have epoxy coated it first and let it tack so it wasn't so damn greasy.

Another thing people do is place taped blocks around as helpers or holders. Epoxy does not stick to shipping tape.

Also, there is nothing wrong with a mechanica fastener you remove later, so remember to hole things if needed. Holes can always be filled if u r painting. Consider how am I gonna do this when you are dryfitting.
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piperdown
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Re: LM18 Madison Wi Building questions

Post by piperdown »

Rub rails are tricky and can be a royal pain in the azz.
I used dowels to line mine up. Staggered the seams, drilled a 3/8" hole through the strips. Got the first one on, thick layer on the rub rail board and had about a bazillion clamps. I was using slow hardner last summer and waited a full day before pulling the clamps. Once all the clamps were set I put the dowels in and wiped off the epoxy that was pushed out by the dowels. Did the next 2 layers in one go since the dowels helped hold everything in place. And, of course, used another bazillion clamps to hold those 2 layers to the first.

I had thickened epoxy everywhere! Such a mess. There's still some crusty stiff spots on my coverall sleeves :lol:

I think I also used some coated screws on one side that was being a bit difficult. Once it had set up I backed the screws out, over drilled and filled the hole with thickened epoxy.
Eric (aka, piperdown)

"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain

Cbuf
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Re: LM18 Madison Wi Building questions

Post by Cbuf »

Well... I now have 4 out of 6 strips on. Messy job. With the amount of clamps I have I can only install 2 a day. I got number 4 on this morning at 6 am, and will do the other side later today. Then back to sanding and fairing, but I'm close to primer. I thought about putting screws or dowels, but an extra day or 2 won't kill me. Thanks for the tip.

Cbuf
Last edited by Cbuf on Mon Aug 05, 2019 12:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
See my LM 18 build here.
viewtopic.php?t=64254
See my LM 18 Questions here.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=64299&hilit=lm18\
Finished Boat Here
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=65173

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