Laziness/Invention/Fairing

[VT_Jeff]

I use 1/8" rubber molds.

Very interested to hear ore about that FallGuy.

[VT_Jeff]

The only “problem” areas are the chines, butt joints and wherever there is tabbing such as the bow, glass overlaps and other corners.

My butt joints are one of my biggest problem areas: I used a router to take off 1 ply before joining as per JM's recommendation, but royally messed up the glue up and ended up with an embarassingly unflat joint (4 of them if you're counting at home) which have sucked up a lot of my fairing time. But they are starting to get tamed. I'm not sure if I will ever get those joints completely invisible, I feel like I would need to remove too much glass right at the joint itself or else build up a stupid amount of fill around them, but I'm willing to live and learn, maybe I'll paint a design over them to obscure whatever joint is still visible at the end.

Thanks for the input Marc.

Jeff

[blueflood]

Hi VT_Jeff,

Yep, the butt joints. I only have one right at midships (one each side) and those took a bit of time. The feathering extended a good two feet forward and aft of the joint but it got done eventually. The routing of one ply layer as you described was done on the cockpit sole and that turned out OK, also Kiwi Grip was applied so that camouflaged whatever unfair areas were left. The rest of the boat was shot with Monstaliner - even better the fairing did not have to be 100%.

Keep at it

Marc

[VT_Jeff]

The feathering extended a good two feet forward and aft of the joint but it got done eventually.

That's great info Marc. With that in mind maybe I'll keep at it a while longer and keep extending that feather and see how smooth it gets.