Glueing on appendages

[cape man]

white ash.

[Dan_Smullen]

white ash.

Actually, was my first guess...

[OneWayTraffic]

Imagine the worst case scenario... A crack develops in the glass covering the chines. Water seaps into the wood, then finds its way to a screw hole, which leads into the hull plywood. Wouldn't take long for that to ruin the entire boat. Risk seems to high to take any chances.

IMHO, at a minimum, any holes at least need to be drilled out and filled.

That's a pretty unlikely case, but keep in mind that epoxy can still stop a fair chunk of that damage by denying air to the rot spores. Even if rot starts somewhere it won't spread far, (At least according to Dave Gerr (naval architect.)

[VT_Jeff]

Imagine the worst case scenario... A crack develops in the glass covering the chines. Water seaps into the wood, then finds its way to a screw hole, which leads into the hull plywood. Wouldn't take long for that to ruin the entire boat. Risk seems to high to take any chances.

Yeah, I like the idea of drilling larger holes, using bolts and wingnuts like Cape man, and then backfilling the holes completely with goo. But you will need to hold those rails steady while you drill those holes, which could be about as much work as holding them steady while you glue them. Is gorilla tape an option?

[Jaysen]

Maybe I’m a simpleton, but what’s argon with predrilling appendages, then use Screws? Once it all sets remove screws, drill out a size larger, then fill?

Seems to me that would be the easiest.

[VT_Jeff]

Even if rot starts somewhere it won't spread far, (At least according to Dave Gerr (naval architect.)

Here's my impression (and this is just general bally-hoo on the topic, not neccessarly specific to Dan's chines): Even without rot, if the ply soaks up/wicks in water through some intrusion for a while, it's going to cause soft-spots/delamination, esp if it goes through a few freeze/thaw cycles. This can/does happen with end-grain balsa in cored hulls and decks on sailboats, I would expect that plywood core would be that much more of a welcoming environment.

[Dan_Smullen]

I think I got it. NOt the greatest picture, taken from the transom looking forward...



Tip of the visible plywood is small strip fastened to the side of the boat, holding the chine in place, as suggested by AA!

I can clamp all 9' of chine, and the first few feet of spray rail to the boat using long clamps. The last few feet of spray rail at the bow will be screwed down until the glue dries. Material at that point is pretty thin, so over drilling and filling won't be an issue there.

Maybe I’m a simpleton, but what’s argon with predrilling appendages, then use Screws? Once it all sets remove screws, drill out a size larger, then fill?

Seems to me that would be the easiest.

Definitely easiest, but concern about the the hole beneath all the surfaces eventually becoming accessible to ingress to makes me lose sleep.

[VT_Jeff]

Tip of the visible plywood is small strip fastened to the side of the boat, holding the chine in place, as suggested by AA!

I like that a lot. I'm thinking If you added a few of those along the length, you could then use weights on top of the chines instead of clamps if need be.

I am getting close to needing to glue my skeg on so this is an interesting topic for me.

[OneWayTraffic]

Even if rot starts somewhere it won't spread far, (At least according to Dave Gerr (naval architect.)

Here's my impression (and this is just general bally-hoo on the topic, not neccessarly specific to Dan's chines): Even without rot, if the ply soaks up/wicks in water through some intrusion for a while, it's going to cause soft-spots/delamination, esp if it goes through a few freeze/thaw cycles. This can/does happen with end-grain balsa in cored hulls and decks on sailboats, I would expect that plywood core would be that much more of a welcoming environment.

Possibly. That's why I'd personally glass over any below the waterline holes if possible. Especially chine steps and what have you as they take a hammering.

[Aripeka Angler]

Happy you figured out how to not use a bunch of screws to install the chine wedge.
I think you can figure out how to glue on the floppy front piece of the appendage without screws as well.
If not, you are going to glass over the appendage and then tape and glass the inside as well. No big deal.
Another option instead of screws would be a couple of dowels. Lube them up with wood flour/epoxy and shove them in. Grind off, nothing to fill.
For the record, I’m not anti-screw. I just know things that nag or cause uncertainty tend to create anxiety later, lol.
You’re not doing anything as radical as this but here is a visual of my dowel use on a very stiff piece of wood...